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I was first made aware of Tailorable&Co as a cafe last year, but later came to realize that it is a center of an philosophy, or perhaps ‘trend’ is a more accurate term, that I have noticed gather pace around the streets of Seoul. Koreans are more aware of what happens at Pitti Uomo and other fashion weeks than ever before and it shows. I was lucky enough to get a chance to speak to the owner of Tailorable&Co recently and chat over a coffee.

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“In my early twenties I worked at a select shop which gave me first-hand experience with high fashion brand suits. I was always interested in suits, but I noticed that the cut and the details of these off-the-rack suits were not that good. This is when I began to explore the art of bespoke suits as well as the history and culture that surrounds it. I began Tailorable&Co, inspired to introduce authentic tailored suit culture to my home city, Seoul.”

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Behind a potted plant and a beautifully tailored suit, you can see the master tailor at work. He carefully cuts lengths of fabric, all the while going back and forth between the measurements to make sure it’s of the correct size.

Fabric is obviously important, but what makes a good suit?

“A good suit is defined by the same things that inspire all great art: craftsmanship, attention to detail, a respect for the history of the suit. But most importantly, a good suit starts with recognizing the individual needs and inherent style of each unique customer. An important thing about suits that I think some people forget is that the suit one wears shows their level in society. A suit is a status symbol.”

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Considering the plethora of different cuts and finishes that a suit can have, where do you draw your inspiration from? 

“I am inspired by the suits in classic movies and the style of presidents and business owners of the past. I take great inspiration in classic elegance, particularly from the 1930’s and 40’s. My style is a reflection of these inspirations combined with an awareness of the present.”

Do trends not play a big part in how you plan your collections?

“I do not trust trends – trends are a result of fashion and I don’t make fashion. I make suits.”

I explain that I first saw a photo of him at Pitti Uomo and he laughs.

“I do not attend foreign fashion weeks, but I am a regular at Pitti Uomo.”

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The conversation moves onto this season’s current collection and what makes it different from previous collections.

As a Brit, I hear that there are parts of the collection that I might be especially interested in.

“This season’s collection is Tailorable and Co.’s tenth collection. The collection contains both Italian and old England-inspired suits and a wide range of world-class fabrics.”

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That’s fantastic. Assuming I was to ask you for a recommendation, what would you suggest?

“Because you are tall and thin, I recommend a three piece suit in a light grey, checked fabric. You will look like Fred Astaire!”You can’t really do better than that.

This trend looks like it’s here to stay and while the followers are quite few and far between, it’s reassuring to know that some are taking the timeless look of a tailored suit very seriously.

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Interview and photos by Alex Finch.

I always look forward to seeing the Resurrection show at Seoul Fashion Week. It never ceases to impress with it’s urban vibes and chic looks. They seem to endlessly come forward with new and fresh and ideas using the color black and leather-it never gets old.

This season, they modernized their looks by using not only their (rather signature) leather but also neoprene, sequins and fur. Models strutted the runway with spikey hair and fierce glares. One of the things I like about the line is that they use a lot of black and use it well. However, this season I loved their incorporation of dark blue into the line, especially the coats.

In fact, let’s talk about their coats. Every length, silhouette and fabric that exists is featured in a coat here, they have something for everyone. Well done, Resurrection. Any man wanting to look fresh and cool next fall will be walking the city streets in a Resurrection coat.

BDMOTP favorites: Long blue coat with black detailing, grey medium length coat with belt.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Alex Finch.

 

The RE-D show at Seoul Fashion Week had some real flavor to it. It’s always nice to see the models having a good time and enjoying what they are wearing. Models danced and rapped their way down the runway in casual, funky looks that were mostly all black. It’s very popular in Asia to wear a lot of layers, and I often see in runway shows there that look with several different styles and types of layers.

The RE-d collection , right on trend of course, was filled with layers, which kept the looks youthful and funky. Beanie hats, leather details and sunglasses also added an edge of coolness to the collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Alex Finch.

The LEIGH show at Seoul Fashion Week also featured a lot of outerwear, mainly coats. LEIGH incorporate trends like heathered grey, plaid, leather and accessorized with warm and bulky scarves. The line had a kind of sleek feeling to it, perhaps it was the influence of the leather. Baggy pants were paired with tighter motorcycle jackets for the perfect combination of tailored yet hip. Black was also used as a main color throughout the collection.

The showstopper LEIGH piece was a copper shimmery jacket paired with tailored baggy pants and loafers. Could most guys pull it off? Probably not…but the few that could will look very funky!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Alex Finch.

10 minutes of pure solid fashion, as models glide down the Beyond Closet runway at Seoul Fashion Week, pause, (*snap *snap go the cameras) gracefully turn and head back. It seems completely causal, unprecedented and well, they were just born in those outfits and decided to stroll around them for us.

However, backstage, it’s usually complete and utter chaos. Photographers, make up artists, models roaming about, clothes and accessories tossed everywhere, a complete and utter mess, yet somehow, someway, it always ends up looking perfectly at ease to the front row watchers.

It can be really interesting to get a backstage view of fashion shows, because you really see how the garments are up close, and you also get a taste for how much hard work and effort goes into that that 10 minute glide down the runway.

Therefore, this year for the Beyond Closet runway show, we decided to give readers a taste of the backstage effort, models, clothes and more. BDMOTP photographer Alex Finch headed backstage to shoot in order to help us to get a real feel for the playfulness of the Beyond Closet line which focuses on bright, collegiate colors and attention grabbing plaids and prints.

The coats really stood out as well, and looked warm but also unique and bright. It was really nice to see some autumn looks that aren’t all black and basic, and Beyond Closet utilizes color quite well.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Alex Finch.

The Roliat catwalk at Seoul Fashion Week was dark and dashing. Embodying the concept of warm and winter, this AW 14/15 collection was dark and comfortable, which still looking poised at the same time.

The collection focused on coats, all different kinds really. A more tailored professional coat, a leather jacket, or a comfortable down jacket all made their appearances. Little detailing like hooks as closures or fur hoods helped to make the styles unique. Almost all the coats were beautiful, dark shades of navy.

The looks were also paired with some leather accessories like briefcases to tie it all together.

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos by Alex Finch.

I was very excited to see the D.Gnak runway show here in Milan, as we had the opportunity to see the D.Gnak runway show in Seoul just a few months ago during Seoul Fashion Week. I really enjoyed the line in Seoul so I had high expectations for the show in Milan.

The fun thing about D.Gnak is that they are from Korea and they really know how to mix European tailoring with a little Asian flavor and style. After seeing mainly European brands for the past week or so, it was refreshing to get a vibe of something different. The silhouettes were particularly interesting, and we saw a lot of the current trends like plaid, leather, and shorter pants. Some of the coats also had particularly original cuts, lengths and styles. I like when a designer can change it up but still stay current with trends too.

BDMOTP favorite: oxblood suit with patterned sweater underneath.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Moohong was the final show we saw at Seoul Fashion Week. The looks were mainly suits, the collection was a bit more formal than some others. A very basic color scheme was used, black, grey, white with a splash of the occasional plaid pattern or pinstripe. Several of the suits were paired with a baggier pant.

Another key fact about the collection: Moohong actually featured more than one skirt. I’ve mentioned several times that the man skirt has been very popular here in Asia, on the runways and on the streets. However, Moohong featured a few skirts for men, and the very first skirt I have seen for men that is floor length. One of the skirts even had a slit up the back!

I know the man skirt is a controversial topic among both men and women, but I am really seeing a change here these at the SS14 runways with so many skirts. Whether you like it or no, I think the man skirt may be here to stay.

BDMOTP favorite: grey shorts suit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

The Unbounded Awe collection at Seoul Fashion Week was different than many I had seen. First off, it was very unique in that several of the looks had their own original branding on them, like tops with large letters AW for the ” Awe” in Unbounded Awe. I usually am not a fan of putting initials and brand names on clothes, but I actually really liked they way it was done here, in cool, large letters-very original.

The looks were fairly basic, trench coats, collared shirts, and shorts, but also had some interesting, geometric one-of-a-kind patterns as well. The shorts were very short for men, which I am not sure how wearable they might be, but they did look good on the runway. All the shoes were sandals and some of them also had the UA branding on them, which looked pretty neat. The whole collection was rather boxy, with square type looks and styling to it.

BDMOTP favorite: long white trench coat and navy trench coat with patterned sleeves

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Posted by Lori Zaino

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