Someone had to do it. So leave it up to two young Parisian designer brothers from a bespoke family (dad was a London tailor) named ICOSAE to redefine and deconstruct Vermeer’s famous Girl with the Pearl Earring into today’s sensitive, brooding, yet elegant young man: Le Jeune Homme à la Perle – the young man with a pearl earring.
Here ICOSAE presents a dark (lots of underground shades of black fabrics and metallic detail in embroideries and accessories backed up by patchy prints) and rebellious collection, yet according to signature as we have witnessed in a prior show, still elegant and classy despite its penchant for deconstruction and provocation in both cut (oversized coats), shape (cut and turn sleeves), design (monster lapels), fabric (a mix of modern and traditional), and even color (the blood red on black being a primary feature following a ‘family conflict theme’ with the catchphrase that blood runs thicker than water as per the press release).
We had dubbed this particular style ‘punk chic’ last time we wrote an article when ICOSAE was presenting its first show, but this being their second we will have to redefine (or perhaps rather further deconstruct) the description of the style into something more subtle and sensitive as the direct and unavoidable result of every model on the runway boasting that marvelous metallic earpiece with ONE shiny pearl so softly and gently dangling from a small pendulum just below the ear. For that’s no longer punk, but rather swag. And frankly one could only imagine bad boy boogie John Galliano coming up with similar ‘innovation’ before it becomes – if ever – mainstream.
Nevertheless this is what youth is for: To give a distorted twist of sensitivity & sensibility either faux or real to traditional rebellion and a raw, ruckus & raucous approach to life, and then to match the style to go along with it, which now, despite all because of ICOSAE, will be available near you at your local Urban Chic outfitters of uppity menswear for the trendy and the bold in shapes and forms of true elegance and style. Punk Chic gone Pirate Swag – think Boy George, George Michael, and especially Adam Ant of the past, then Captain Jack Sparrow of today, only to culminate in what will be perhaps every second or third millennial gentleman of the future.
For what, if not for ICOSAE, is a real angry young man without a dangling PEARL earring?
Words by Sandro and photos from ICOSAE.