Not the first time covering Acne Studios we notice each time and again the remarkable care and precision and quality of the work of creative director Jonny Johansson. This time no exception. And there is always this elegance of the simplicity of the creations that shines through. And colors that are unusual and rare. Patterns, ideas, and forms taken from new and refreshing sources such as in this collection the drawings of children who were asked what they think of clothing. Elegance, simplicity, naïve artwork with some chunky cotton flocking, pastel colors like camel and pastel grey mixing with electric blue and the red-orange of mandarin, poppy stripes warm pulls and sweaters. Knitwear, knitwear and more knitting even going as far as knitted necklaces of metallic yarn. Oversize is the ruling signature as in many other fashion shows this Paris fashion week as a sign of the times. Different yarns and wools. Beautiful bountiful sweaters, the hallmark wear of any good winter, but in gorgeous and simple tones and patterns. Pullovers, crew necks, turtle necks.

One has to love this work and these creations for the simple ambition in that it highlights the beauty of the core value of what we think of first as when we think of clothes (and indeed such it may be in the child-like conception) in general: The knitted sweater or pull-over! Where did you get that sweater, it looks beautiful!? It is the very first think we see on a person before we see their jacket, their coat, or their shoes – let alone your pants.

Thus the knitted sweater is the one piece that offers most room and inspiration for creativity and for the courage to express yourself, and it is the first thing ever we remember as a child of having worn that was both beautiful and special. And so Jonny Johansson is our master sweater maker. In fact it is remarkable in how the coats come to look like beautiful sweaters in this collection.

Some of the secrets of the special simple beauty of the Acne Studios collections we see year in year out probably lies in the meticulously consistent sartorial work processes that are implemented in the making and fabrication thereof. For we were once privy to see all the different look books and drawings that it takes to make a single collection. The wealth of detail and precision was truly astounding, so when seeing the Acne Studios collections on the runway or live in person you know you are witnessing a creation as a result of a superior production process. And this shows.

So nothing to reinvent here. No false millennial dreams. No deconstruction necessary. Just beautiful and elegant knitted sweaters slowly becoming classy coats. Timeless. Superior. Beautiful. Only by Acne Studios with Jonny Johansson.

ACNE-AW-18-6ACNE-AW-18-2ACNE-AW-18-4ACNE-AW-18-3ACNE-AW-18-7ACNE-AW-18-5ACNE-AW-18-9ACNE-AW-18-1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Story by Sandro and photos from ACNE.

There is something delightfully perverse – of course – about John Galliano’s latest heroic attempt to rewrite the annals of fashion history. For here the old master goes on a brave crusade doomed to nothing less but sudden death or failure in a titanic struggle to open up a new page in the book of the glamour so as to introduce us to what can only be called Millennial Glam.

By means of artisanal tailoring.

As we already noticed a reversible blazer coat-jacket in the Y/Project collection yesterday in Paris, here for Maison Margiela the vivisection of sartorial principles is taken even one step further in that in addition to cross cultural cuts between street, sports, and classic menswear, at the same traditional fabrics are used in direct opposition and contrast to artificial materials like rubber, poly-urethane, and gabardine. And that thus the sartorial effects can be rather unpredictable. But maybe that is what Glam is all about: For Ziggy played guitar.

No, this is Glam for the Millennial Age, which only a master like Galliano could provide as he splashes, splits, splatters, and splices between different materials, cuts, colors, and styles, using rubber for cardigans (ouch), turning overcoats into jackets and trench coats into formal wear, leaving seams and linings half untouched or unfinished, so as to give the impression that all was tailored in a form of irrepressable haste, waste, and hurry – as if when so many millennials would probably rather be on their smart phones rather than to pay attention to sullen bourgeois sartorial propriety.

All is revamped, rebooted, and turned topsy-turvy and inside out, and the appropriate concept connotation for this type of sartorial dissection activity is apparently ‘décortiquer’ (to hull or to peel in French), which may probably translate into American English under circumstances as Peel my House. For mister Galliano calls his provocative creations ‘house ideas’, with the brilliantly sordid silver lining that some of the artisanal tailoring may have been done in the name of Glam & Slam (notice the Glam Slam Bags) and SMS (Security Margiela Sneakers) for Maison Margiela AW18.

It’s Brutish, it’s Kinky, and it’s Beautiful – it’s John Galliano for Maison Margiela AW18 with the Millennial Glam collection.

MM-AW-18-7MM-AW-18-4MM-AW-18-1MM-AW-18-6MM-AW-18-2MM-AW-18-5MM-AW-18-3MM-AW-18-8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Story by Sandro and photos from Maison Margiela.

Paris FW opening with the Glenn Martens Y / Project on the first day is a grateful reminder always that A you are in Paris and B that there is this unlimited and boundless pool of creativity in fashion readily available in myriad of colors, shapes, concepts, materials, and people. Ever eclectic, and always changing mister Martens from Belgium, who has build a distinct global cult following over the years for his marvelous creations, mixes in hyper non-conventional and post-contemporary style both streetwear and sportswear with classy and traditional chic, which is something, frankly, which only very few (bar none) menswear designers are capable of doing. And in this respect Y / Project is beyond any particular trend in that it manages to set a trend.

Hoodies under classic blazers, faux furs (of course), UGG city loafers under swollen pajama trousers, buckled urban cowboys with traditional bespoke overcoats with double panels and visible linings, suits turned halfway inside-out with oversized lapels, cuffs or collars, not to mention oversized pleated shoulders, and – something which was probably never seen before and which might end up in a museum one day (see if you can spot it in our slide show below) – the reversible jacket-coat blazer, where the outside is a dinner or business blazer and where the inside functions as an outdoor coat and street jacket (zipper and all) – just in case (so very Parisian) you would want to go and be cool and smoke alone outside for a few minutes while having to return to your business meeting – or hot restaurant date – just right after. But you are prepared.

And so the Y / Project always seems to move on like a grand incredible tableau of pretty awesome characters inspired by Breughel the Elder that have both personality and style. Which of course is always good for at least one iconic image.

Vogue and others jumped on the one image right away. And so here does Best Dressed Man, for whether this was his intention or not, by creating the oversized hoodie and by setting it against a blown-up doudoune (down jacket) à la Moncler, mister Martens is onto something. For here is an iconic / ironic image fit as metaphor for our warped times picturing a self-absorbed urban streetwear millennial wearing expensive winter luxury goods but who is no longer able to see or look even but one inch or centimeter beyond himself.

Add to this a casual look of a set of plugged in headphones, whether that be to listen to music or to chatter on a most recently purchased latest model smart phone, and voilà, here you have the perfect millennial passenger ready to take on the world in the name of that grand 21st century concept and project called ‘me’. Autism incorporated. Louis Vuitton Supreme. Adidas Gucci. G-Star Chanel. Or simply the Glenn Martens Y / Project. Ahead of the times as always. And the opening act for Paris Fashion Week Homme.

YP-18-3YP-18-2YP-18-7YP-18-10YP-18-8YP-18-1YP-18-11YP-18-12YP-18-9YP-18-5YP-18-4YP-18-6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Sandro and photos from Y / Project.

Read on to check out BDMOTP’s exclusive interview with Sylvain Fischmann, artistic director of young and up-coming French tailor-made brand RIVES — Tailor made suits Paris.

  1. Are you planning to competing directly with Savile Row and Via Monte Napoleone?

We’re not that into competition. Both Savile Row and Via Napoleone are temples of know-how and tailor-made, but RIVES has a totally different approach, not contradictory but with another vision of tailor made. We have many customers of one or the other who come to see us precisely for something more creative, modern, slick and fashionable.

  1. Is the opening up of shop at Printemps Hommein Paris on the 2nd floor the beginning of a global presence for RIVES?

Opening a big corner in the new version of Printemps de l’Homme is definitely a big step and an exciting challenge for us. When Printemps came to us, we immediately felt the relevance and potential of this project. We think RIVES as a whole brand and we develop it with a reasonable rhythm so as to always master the service, the processes, the quality while being self-financed.

  1. If not in Europe would you chose first rather to open up shop in Shanghai or in New York?

Firstly in New York without hesitation! We have a great attachment and a good knowledge of the city and the market. Added to that, we are completely captivated by its energy, spirit and creativity!

Urban chic from Paris heading for New York

  1. As for quality & innovation in materials and fabrics what would be the RIVESrelationship with French weaver Dormeuil?

Our association with DORMEUIL is not random. Very attached to the traditional values of the couture, tailor-made and more generally to the French know-how in the universe of the fashion and luxury, we found in DORMEUIL the ideal weaver in terms of quality and creativity.

Their approach is focused on the future. From patterns to weaving techniques, through the development of exclusive fabrics those have become famous around the world, DORMEUIL is recognized as much for the quality of its fabrics as for its creativity, research and development. A perfect match.

  1. What’s the secret behind the quick turnaround time and the great pricing on high-end suits, tuxedos, jackets, and coats ordered?

The quality/price ratio is at the heart of our positioning and our thinking since our creation. Unlike ready-to-wear, we don’t have stocks to manage, so we can allow smaller margins than in ready-to-wear. Also, the secret lies in the quality and proximity of our partners’ relationships. We select craft shops, fabric suppliers, staff, and artistic collaborations based on human feelings. Everyone we’re working with share the same passion for authenticity, beauty and fun. As for the quick turnaround, it’s thanks to the expertise of the workshops we work with. Thanks to their professionalism, passion and commitment. This is the advantage of working with traditional workshops and not factories.

  1. As a style would you say ‘chic urbain’ would coverRIVES, or would you prefer ‘contemporary elegance’?

We avoid limiting ourselves to a single style! Positioned on the tailor maid luxury streetwear, RIVES is creating a unique artistic and urban footprint. We have in our DNA these urban, contemporary and chic sides.

chic, chic, very chic

  1. You work with a team of Artistic Director, Designer, Stylist, and maybe a Photographer in your studio – what is the main creative advantage of having the functions separated rather than combined?

While I am co-founder of the brand with our “rock” Antoine Salmon-Peugnet, I’m also its Artistic Director. This status gives me the freedom to explore whatever I want with whoever I want, while keeping it all together. The collections, the points of sales’ design, the website, or the look-books and campaigns are part of the same vision, shared with talented people whom we have the chance to work with:

  • Raphaël Lugassy (photographer),
  • Marc Ange (designer),
  • HER (music band),
  • Jisbar (artist),
  • Aslove (DJ),
  • Keziah Jones (musician),
  • Jeung Hae Him (video artist),
  • Gaëlle Dessauvages (PR and strategy consultant), and
  • Lamine Sow, our flagship’s director, who has been involved the past 2 years in the development strategy and creative process.
  1. Is your collaboration with Pop Artist Jisbar- aka the French Basquiat – in the contrast he provides with a traditional look of French sartorial elegance perhaps not a little bit too risqué for an international cosmopolitan client?

We don’t try to delight. We work with the heart, without asking any questions. We work with talented and human people, and we just want to share this! If we had to collaborate with a controversial artist we would raise the question, but if it’s just a matter of taste, we trust people. This is the artistic approach that interests us, and the opportunity to work and promote these artists is a chance, a pleasure.

RIVES: modern art meets classic tailoring

  1. How does your relationship with The Woolmark Companyaffect the quality of the brand?

We work with the biggest weavers in France, the UK, and Italy, all affiliated to The Woolmark Company. It is natural to get closer to this organization, which represents a real support for a young brand like us, especially for the sourcing of materials allowing the realization of new products, but also for communication: working with such a label gives us credibility and confidence in our project. We met at The Woolmark Company very passionate and supportive people.

  1. If he wore RIVES, who would you say is the Best Dressed Man on the Planet?

No. Idea. What I can tell is ‘who’ gave me the passion for clothes when I was a child: Clint Eastwood in A fistful of dollars, Albator, Sean Connery in Never say never again, and Slash.

No comment

Interview by Sandro and photos from Rives.

 

Had le Corbusier still been alive today he would undoubtedly have worn The Whip by Gentle Monster. For this is celebrity and designer eyewear only. These items are so cool and stylish that we are giving them a second look and review today right before Christmas, so that, like a luxury watch for whose delivery you need to wait a cool 6 months or up to a year, you can still order them right now on time for use on front row during fashion week in June 2018. For Gentle Monster is the ultimate Christmas gift to oneself.

Yet despite having done a previous review of Gentle Monster, we are doing it again because getting one’s hands on such pictures (as with all high design items) is a veritable Tour de Force and an occasion and opportunity not to be missed. Press kits and fashion pictures / shoots come and go, and even celebrity pics do the rounds rather easily, but to be able to find the latest photos of a high design chair, table, lamp, or aye, even a fork or spoon, is usually far more difficult. Reason being is that what such photos bring is not just the introduction of a new style, but of an entire new concept.

So this is why, and for those who are familiar with Hermès or other lifestyle products it will not come as a surprise, that each new pair of designer glasses released and launched in the market becomes an event in and of itself, where a carefully crafted design and concept is introduced with the latest encomium, and with a peculiar name, a different shape, and a new outrageous color to a hungry fashion public always wanting more. For these are not mere products, but items which will come to denote the latest power, privilege and exclusivity.

And so it is with Gentle Monster. Expect to find them in the world’s most famous concept stores (sadly Colette’s in Paris is closing this week), or at a few very select high-end eyewear stores.

Following is the list of names and titles of the full Gentle Monster collection featured below:

Absente, Add Moon, Ami Adam, Black Peter, Deborah, Granny Ring, In Scarlet, Jumping Jack, Last Bow, Lovepunch, Lovesome, Mad Crush, Odd Odd, Second Boss, Sign of Two, Switch Back, The Whip, and Tool.

Words by Sandro and photos from Gentle Monster.

GM-Switch-BackGM-Mad-CrushGM-Ami-AdamGM-Jumping-JackGM-Second-BossGM-DeborahGM-The-WhipGM-Granny-RingGM-Black-PeterGM-Sign-of-TwoGM-Tool-GM-Last-BowGM-AbsenteGM-LovepunchGM-In-ScarletGM-Add-MoonGM-LovesomeGM-Odd-Odd

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here, at last, is the brand that needs no introduction in the world of man’s fashion as they make most of the fine and beautiful fabrics of which many of the bespoke men’s costumes in London, Paris, Milan, and New York are made. This is how executives are dressed and how movie stars go about looking good – in SCABAL (an acronym for Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise). Scabal is at the origin of the creation of the bunch booklets used today by most of the great tailors on the planet.

Founded in 1938, SCABAL is the world’s foremost producer of fabrics, supplying elite tailors and fashion houses across the globe. Each season SCABAL’s team of designers and artisan weavers create collections of the finest fabrics at the company’s English mill (from a recent press release).

So Best Dressed Man is honored today to present to you a small Q&A interview with Campbell Chrichton Dunn, creative director and chief of design at SCABAL:

  • Is it true that the suit should be carrying the man rather than the man wearing the suit?

I think this is true of all clothes, they should complement your personality and make you feel more confident.  A well-cut suit that fits you perfectly will help your posture. This is achieved not only by the suit’s cut itself, but also by any man’s tendency to stand up straight and walk correctly when they are wearing a suit.

  • What is the best occasion and the best way for a man to wear a pochette / pocket square?

I think if the pochette is well chosen and folded well it can fit any occasion. I like to see a fancy printed silk roughly folded worn with a casual jacket, but am equally keen on wearing a navy business suit with a sharply folded, white crisp pocket square.

  • Style-wise, is there too much urban chic out there today and too little classic & traditional elegance for men?

There is now more choice for men’s clothing and the menswear market is more diverse than ever before and this is not a bad thing as it gives more style choices to men. I would say there is an evolution in the classic way of dressing where people are now mixing more formal items like suits with t shirts or more loosely cut styles, suits and jackets are still an important wardrobe item but men are changing the way they wear them.

  • If SCABAL were to open up shop in the States, what city would be the best venue?

I would love to see our first store open in New York City, it’s the fashion capital of the US.

  • Besides personal initials what are some of the main reasons a client would order under-collar or on-the-cuff (shirt) embroidery?

We get a lot if customers adding important dates, wedding days, birthdays etc.  It gives them a unique product and also adds a discovery talking point that they can choose to reveal or not.

  • Is the legend true that it is the softness of the water which is the best kept secret of the old SCABAL mill at Huddersfield?

The reason why the fabric mills in England are located in the county of Yorkshire is due to the terrain of the Pennine Hills. In the 18th century, the hills allowed the water to run down easily to the mills, which were then powered by water. These days, all our fabrics are still finished by being washed in the local waters which definitely gives them an extremely soft touch.

 

  •  How does The Woolmark Company fit into the farm-to-table product philosophy of SCABAL?

Both Scabal and The Woolmark Company share the same values when it comes to wool.  To create the finest quality cloth by using the best Australian Merino wool available, with a focus on traceable, sustainable sourcing. We joined forces with Woolmark to establish the Scabal Noble Wool Club, showcasing a collection of the finest quality ultrafine merino fabrics and have recently worked with them again to launch a short film showcasing a selection of Artisans who use the best raw materials to create products of distinction across tailoring, Michelin star cuisine and customized motorcycles.

  • Is it true that every tailor on Savile Row carries SCABAL bunch books?

Scabal provides a large selection of luxury tailors with our bunch books and that includes many located on Savile Row.

 

  • What kind of sustainable development is practiced at the SCABAL Noble Wool Club?

The Noble Wool Club creates superfine wool by working only with family run Australian Merino wool farms that must meet strict environmental and ethical criteria. At the same time, Scabal works with these farms to preserve traditional methods of wool growing in the face of increasingly low quality international competition.

  • Which one is your personal favorite bunch book?

At the moment my favorite bunch books is ‘Loch Lomond’ with its wool super 140’s and cashmere fabrics with soft elegant designs.

  • Is SCABAL, in fact, what always wears James Bond?

SCABAL has provided fabric to many of the costume designers on James Bond films over the years however, we did not make any of the actual suits.

(only Miss Moneypenny knows if 007 is wearing SCABAL on this mission)

  • Who – wearing SCABAL – would be the best dressed man on the planet?

I think someone like Eddie Redmayne or Ryan Gosling would look smart and elegant in a Scabal suit.

Interview by Sandro and pictures by SCABAL except James Bond which is to be found free of credits and free to reuse without commercial purpose on Google.

 

It’s fashion week in Paris and BDMOTP is invited at the K – fashion event at the Palais Brongniart hosted by the Korean fashion industry where we can do a backstage interview with one of five acclaimed young designers and the only one who is doing real menswear. Voilà Bumsuk Choi, designer and creator of the brand General Idea.

Backstage is underground, where a quite amenable and classy modeling and styling parlor comes to life by scores of Hollywood vanity mirrors and powder tables and where a special fashion week buffet featuring low calorie diet potato chips and coconut juice will keep the crew and models going throughout the day.

We get to speak for ten minutes with mister Choi and his manager and it appears he is a big fan of New York and its style and runways, but that he also loves Paris (he is wearing a royal blue French beret for good measure on some great pastel colored azure sweater with a light jade screen scarf), and of course we speak about K – pop and K – fashion of which here below you will find a small summary. The General Idea collection here discussed is last year’s SS17 but we’ll be sure to show you the SS18 before the year is over.

Q. For the Mars collection where did you get the inspiration for the salmon red background color?
A. A lot of travel (Cuba is mentioned).
Q. What is the name of the Mars color?
A. Red Pink
Q. What is the name of the Korean style pants in the collection?
A. The baji.
Q. Why you use many pastels whereas so often so much black is used in Asian fashion?
A. Sunlight is different in Asia but we like to use soft milky colors.
Q. What you think of Zio Song (Songzio) as the godfather of Korean fashion?
A. He is conservative and old school and has older customers. I am a second generation designer.
Q. What is the advantage of having your fashion displayed at Colette (Paris’ most famous high-end retail outlet located on 213 rue St Honoré)?
A. It’s the scene. Influence. Young people will see it.
Q. Do you use traditional Korean techniques or materials in your creations?
A. Mostly western but we do use traditional Korean hanbok dress as a model which requires special skill.

We thank mister Choi and his manager for the interview and exchange business cards, and indeed his reads Gangnam, Seoul at the bottom. At BDMOTP we may therefore safely assume that we have discovered (after Gentle Monster earlier) Gangnam style.

Word by Sandro and photos from General Idea.

GI-6GI-7GI-4GI-1GI-3GI-5GI-2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Timeless elegance for men going the distance with Loris Azzaro, the late French – Italian jet-set stylist (1933 – 2003) who obtained the French legion d’honneur for his work and contributions in perfumes and fashion and whose brand has been around since 1967 (today is the occasion to celebrate the 50th anniversary), but whose ultimate legacy in the annals of history may very well turn out to be that he was an early pioneer of what today we know as the fashion party, but which in the early seventies was still a highly exclusive affair for very important people without all the photographers, mock celebrities, or hysterical Instagram wannabes fighting mindlessly over instant access.

Iconic turtleneck with classic optical style.

Iconic turtleneck with classic optical style.

Anyways, the man had a way with class and style which becomes immediately evident still in the pictures hereby attached, and which in all its raw simplicity has sometimes been called ‘élegance intemporelle’ in French which translates simply as timeless elegance. But that is for what we still can see today when we recognize these universal style signatures so many years laters as classy, but when then you would also consider that Loris Azzaro was once the preferred stylist for no one less than Brigitte Bardot, Liza Minnelli, Tina Turner, Claudia Cardinale, Romy Schneider, Jane Birkin, Raquel Welch, and Sophia Loren, then perhaps the timeless elegance of the photos hereby attached pour homme may start to take on a new meaning. Or as Loris Azzaro was famous for saying:

‘On est pas belle / beau par hasard’

(one is not beautiful just by chance)

Iconic turtleneck II with aviator sunglasses.

Iconic turtleneck II with aviator sunglasses.

 

So there it is, in that first image some magic French Chic Intellectuel which somehow still brings back seventies memories of Yves Saint Laurent, or – flashforward 25 years – memories of the last decade of Steve Jobs as High Tech guru par excellence, wearing a real Pull Col Roulé (knitted woolen turtleneck sweater), white court shoes, and metalic nerd glasses notwithstanding, a little bit unshaven in pepper & salt of course – as what would be one outstanding male Loris Azzaro icon for all time.

And so the second image gives a classic Italian impression, a real Viaggio in Italia hallmark with those sunglasses and shades ready for the journey, which again gives evidence of the timeless elegance of the Loris Azzaro Homme collection in that this universal style so easily has the ability to cross over from one culture into the other. So much so that from here on it is not difficult to imagine the Hollywood version of the continuation of this story.

The blue velvet tuxedo dinner jacket with bow tie.

The blue velvet tuxedo dinner jacket with bow tie.

 

Therefore, here come out the dinner jackets now – by Jeeves, which are going to be necessary so as to be socially successful at your next event – be it fashion, business, or even pleasure, so aye, why not show up in a blue velvet tuxedo with black bow tie knowing you already made the part and aced the casting, because indeed you now per Loris Azzaro himself that ‘one is not beautiful just by chance’.

Grey wool coat on wooly turtleneck sweater, wool scarf, optical glasses.

Grey wool coat on wooly turtleneck sweater, wool scarf, eyeglasses.

So credit must go out to stylist Jérome André who so flawlessly brings back this raw simplicity of timeless elegance for this particular collection of Loris Azzaro Homme FW 17/18. For who today still would dare to go in different shades of grey and different knits of simple wool thinking you be cool and casual – or even chic, while spotting a pull col roulé wearing nerd glasses? Noone, lest there be no need to be either casual or cool. And this precisely is perhaps a tall order for today’s man. Unless you posses that timeless elegance of Loris Azzaro.

The pull col roulé on sunglasses

The pull col roulé on sunglasses

Words by Sandro and photos from Loris Azzaro

The name Ports 1961 brings visions of yachting along the Mediterranean, stark-white from head-to-toe and sailor-style navy and stripes. While this isn’t quite the Ports 1961 aesthetic, we were pleased to note that Milan Vukmirovic did add a dash of stripes to his Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection — though that’s where the boating vibes end. Instead, the collection features urban contemporary styles with an underlying European fit and Asia/European tone.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren't getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren’t getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

The designer co-founded the legendary concept store Colette, which is closing its doors December 20, 2017 to the dismay of fashionistas around the world. We could harp on this sad occurrence all day, but we won’t, because focusing on the Ports 1961 Fall collection makes us much happier.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Ports 1961 really went visceral with the colorblocking trend this season, covering sweaters and shirts with large sections of contrasting tones. We get a flash of pastel and white here too — don’t forget winter white is still a thing and the Labor Day white rule goes out the door when you exit the good ol’ US of A. So feel free to sport your winter white with pride all over Europe, Asia and beyond this fall and winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

It wouldn’t be fall without a dash of layering, and Ports 1961 goes more formal with a open-cut style sleeve cape over a colorblocked, partially unbuttoned shirt. The contrasting formal style juxtaposes perfectly with the more casual baggy trousers and unbuttoned, untucked shirt, still crisply ironed, of course.

Layers galore.

Layers galore.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ports 1961.

Cause I’m so pretty....

Cause I’m so pretty….

Now here is a daring question in fashion: it is a well-established known fact that the world’s limited supply of high class designers rotates slowly from major fashion to fashion house as if they are baseball of football (soccer) stars vying to play for the world’s most exclusive and glamorous teams – SO WHY is Glenn Martens still running his own employee project campaign for the Y/Project? We had so hoped he would have replaced Raf Simons by now after Dior kept everybody guessing for more than one year on who be their next creative director. Perhaps that the truth is – quite logical after the John Galliano scandals – that not all the answers always lie in quality design itself, but also in the personal and professional appeal of the leading man or woman. Because take it or leave it, Glenn Martens still is a Bad Boy Boogie of fashion who likes to do his own thing.

The glorious picture here above proves the point. For which other designer would dare to come up with the simple idea to – hey, why not – to dress up and style your own employees (and family and some friends) for a change? Surely not something that the house of Dior would advocate.

So yes, there it is and there he stands, the latest Y/project campaign project, at the local employee picnic in the yard with a photographer at hand (Arnaud Lajeunie) of course, a gloriously androgynous creation with all the star quality of a Dior runway walk or an early seventies Rolling Stones or Bowie photoshoot passive aggression drooling all over the image – but no drugs or alcohol or sex necessary. Just incredible style powerfully speaking by itself of itself which is a feat not easy to pull at the local company picnic using an employee who has not been trained as a professional model. Glenn Martens and stylist Ursini Gysi show a gift for the natural and unexpected here.

And you're so pretty...

And you’re so pretty…

Here is another example, this time of two employees lounging on the couch in some of the menswear from last year’s collections (we recognize it from the previous runways). But as you can see (you will see this in runway backstage pictures as well) what makes this styling so great is that here is another vivid example that it is the clothes who carry the man and not vice versa.

Are you serious? Napoleon, or Empress Josephine and not Tupac Shakur? Are we dressing without masks for a Venetian party like two young princes of a renaissance family? And what about this very sinister (sinister meaning left) bling hand casually straddling one’s thigh? Is that to say you always have an extra hand at hand to scratch your latest itch? Well, they say the most needless use of accessories for men – like stuffing a pipe for example – is often best to feel comfortable with a certain style, and this is a good point, because the Y/Project employees in these pictures not only look relaxed looking like de Medici princes – they look great!

And we're so pretty...

And we’re so pretty…

So yes, what Glenn Martens proves here is that great styling can make people really happy! Employees, people, men, women, friends, family. A great way to start the new Y/Project AW17 campaign. And so the press release states:

“Y/Project celebrates individuality. It’s all about individuals and moments.”

Corporations and companies, please take note.

Words by Sandro and photos from Y/Project

Page 2 of 1412345...10...Last »