This dapper and pretty show collection by French brand Etudes was always going to be somehow halfway political as there is always something interestingly collectivist and genderless about the Etudes menswear conceptions when following their shows, and this time no exception (we imagined the stale look of square, brute, and odorless Mao jackets) but surprise, surprise then that to popularize the stalwart line items which were nevertheless painted on notes from the underground (show setting was a basement underground of a brutalist Parisian building) when we noticed the familiar logo of the New York Times appearing as a print signature in this otherwise beautiful AW 18 collection.

Oh well, granted that the NYT logo is quite pretty, fashionable, and iconic in and off itself so that indeed the NYT print with its mean lean Gothic letters looks great on the runway set on scarves, sweaters, or T-shirts, but we still have some troubling questions when the press release for the show then introduces the New York Times as a publication which is “… a weathervane of opinion within fashion and the arts.” And so it appears that fake news excellent trends makes these days – even on the runways in Paris as a meme.

Citizens of the underground indeed, because such was the theme of this show, and it must be said that the collection comeback signature of safety orange on dark olive, on camel, against shades of black, with some Prince of Whales in electric blue, while Adidas and Salomon provided fancy city loafers, and while the carabiners with parachute cord and climbing rope in multicolor were used as belts or decorations, with those genderless appearances, and the classy tailoring, and last but certainly not least (see if you can spot it) the magic appearance of Fritz the Cat in print, that all these things taken together made for a versatile and eclectic AW 18 Etudes collection which yet managed to keep its equilibrium and unity of purpose despite any avant-gardist progressive studies (études) undoubtedly preceding the actual défilé on the runway.

Or maybe just because of it. Because Etudes New York Times may yet become like Louis Vuitton Supreme. All they need is to come out of the underground basement and start a pop-up store. And perhaps call it Bolshevism Inc.























Story by Sandro and photos from Etudes.

Sean Suen is from Beijing and as such is drawing direct inspiration for the AW 18 collection from the story of the life of Pu Yi aka the Last Emperor of China. Therefore see if you can see in the pictures of the collection below the three stages of the last emperor’s life story, and if you can distinguish one from the other, a journey from boy-emperor to emperor to prisoner and accused war criminal to ultimately respected citizen after the age of empire is over. The story is set in the first half of the 20th century.

After a very successful first entry onto the Paris runways one year and a half ago today people now look forward to the latest Sean Suen collections with an anticipation of expecting classy traditional bespoke and tailoring, in soft palette colors, darker for winter and lighter for summer, but gifted and lined with the sly sensuality of oriental forms and shapes, a concept and a design which, for once, does not set out to break a mold, to dissect traditions, to deconstruct beautiful menswear, but to simply emphasize natural beauty, and perfect shape, good gait, and dapper walk.

It’s exactly this what is missing in so many collections on the runways these days which only try to shock and awe by being disruptive or vulgar, but no, young designer Sean Suen probably keeping in mind China’s deep cultural and historical civilization and traditions, does not need to prove himself in such contemporary popular way, but like an old master would who already paints his creations with a soft brush, with gentleness, and with charm, steers directly for the classical interpretations of a new elegance.

Because it is traditional elegance which is the birthright of man for when he wears something that fits well and looks good – no extra cuts, tears, kinks, or hoodies or jeans necessary. And thus the only thing ‘trendy’ thing you will notice in the collection AW 18 below is the use of oversized jackets and sweaters but that was done so as to highlight the story of the life of the last emperor as a boy.

So, to sum it up, as the British would say – that there is no substitute for class. And we will repeat it here once again that the beautiful creations of Sean Suen give us at Best Dressed Man confidence that perhaps the future of classical bespoke fashion for men – outside the city of Milan of course – for this millennium may very well belong to China.

So please forget K – Pop and J – Pop. Because that is so vulgar, so passé, if not straightforwardly outré. But let’s let Sean Suen take us back to the old tailoring traditions of the Middle Kingdom called Cathay.























Story by Sandro and photos from Sean Suen.

Hed Mayner again pushing the boundaries of sartorial class with his background in French couture with a sumptuous collection of oversized Chic L’Endroit à L’Envers, an inside-out kind of chic which tackles every trend of the moment but which manages to stay super classy, wearable, and yes – playful.

First thing that must be noticed is that by using only Sotto Voce colors in the palette that thereby you keep things traditional, and that by using classic suit shapes and forms you will guarantee the level of distinction and class that is needed to have your show’s elegance, and add to that traditional quilting, cottons and wools, but then from there on the collection becomes playful like a rollercoaster in what the press release names …

… habitual daily gestures becoming adventurous in an unusual setting …

as this is where the deconstruction and dissection sets in (décorticage), the peeling away and the hulling of the traditional sartorial items, with the interesting twist that Hed Mayner starts his re-creation process from the inside-out – called l’endroit à l’envers in French.

The press release claims it as …

a bourgeois repertoire cut differently from within:

  • Oversize it, yes again, in each and every show this week in Paris everything is oversized, it’s the trend
  • Use different sizes at the same time, like oversize level one, level two, level three
  • Overlay it and underlay it in contrasting colors of different materials
  • Wrap it and drape it, another Paris runway trend this week
  • Collapse collars and cuffs over and about
  • Let it hang (like your tie over your shoulder and your shirt out in well-studied nonchalance) and certainly don’t button or zip anything
  • Loosely wear studied spectacles

Et puis voilà – there you have it – now you will come to see what Hed Mayner likes to call ‘form following function’, with what we can see the function being to look classy and cool all at the same time, while the forms and cuts while staying within the realm and boundaries of sartorial bespoke, still manage to give the impression of contemporary streetwear chic (draped, loose, and oversized).

No questions asked – the Hed Mayner AW 18 collection is a grand success.
























Story by Sandro and photos from Hed Mayner.

This show was simply called ‘Lapped’ probably because the models on the runway were draped and wrapped into their winter menswear rather than to be dressed or clothed in it and, frankly, in a way this makes sense when it is really cold outside, and if then you can still manage to move about in high designer streetwear chic you – and the designer Juun J. from Korea – will have done something right. For it is never too cold to go in style.

Covering Juun J. before we noticed the same signature of lots of exaggerated oversized menswear drapes which seems to be the hot topic of Paris FW this winter with every second designer who presents (and thus a trend), but we know that Juun J. did this popular feature all along in previous years as well, so perhaps that his draping and lapping will catch on as a trend in the coming year as well.

Nevertheless we see here the one hot item museum of modern art piece pop up once again – the reversible jacket blazer-coat, or coat-blazer jacket, hmm reversible coat-jacket – where the one side is coat and the inside a street jacket, the latter functioning as a scarf to be wrapped sleeves and all around your neck when you wear it as a coat. Well, check it out below in the pictures so you get the idea rather than reading this sentence again.

But that is not the only signature noticeable for Juun J. who loves to go either genderless, or gender neutral, or non – gender with his collections which is achieved as is well known in the industry by putting loads of tall slim models of both genders in wide and oversized clothes, while giving them carry on hand bags, and by adding some jewelry, caps, and hoodies so that no one would still know from afar if this is a men’s or a women’s show, but hey what can we say, because as they say – beauty is only skin deep.

And so it is with this fab and posh genderless streetwear chic AW 18 collection and a special honorable mention must go to the marvelously lapped drapes set in colorful Prince of Wales and Scottish Square patterns (some hounds tooth and pin stripes as well) as these items defy the standard Juun J. collection signature colors of military green with shades of black. So here is our request: to drape it. Lap it. And color it. Pattern it. Wrap it. But please don’t paint it black. Because this Paris winter has been dark enough (lowest hours of sunshine since weather records began).

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Story by Sandro and photos from Juun J.

Not the first time covering Acne Studios we notice each time and again the remarkable care and precision and quality of the work of creative director Jonny Johansson. This time no exception. And there is always this elegance of the simplicity of the creations that shines through. And colors that are unusual and rare. Patterns, ideas, and forms taken from new and refreshing sources such as in this collection the drawings of children who were asked what they think of clothing. Elegance, simplicity, naïve artwork with some chunky cotton flocking, pastel colors like camel and pastel grey mixing with electric blue and the red-orange of mandarin, poppy stripes warm pulls and sweaters. Knitwear, knitwear and more knitting even going as far as knitted necklaces of metallic yarn. Oversize is the ruling signature as in many other fashion shows this Paris fashion week as a sign of the times. Different yarns and wools. Beautiful bountiful sweaters, the hallmark wear of any good winter, but in gorgeous and simple tones and patterns. Pullovers, crew necks, turtle necks.

One has to love this work and these creations for the simple ambition in that it highlights the beauty of the core value of what we think of first as when we think of clothes (and indeed such it may be in the child-like conception) in general: The knitted sweater or pull-over! Where did you get that sweater, it looks beautiful!? It is the very first think we see on a person before we see their jacket, their coat, or their shoes – let alone your pants.

Thus the knitted sweater is the one piece that offers most room and inspiration for creativity and for the courage to express yourself, and it is the first thing ever we remember as a child of having worn that was both beautiful and special. And so Jonny Johansson is our master sweater maker. In fact it is remarkable in how the coats come to look like beautiful sweaters in this collection.

Some of the secrets of the special simple beauty of the Acne Studios collections we see year in year out probably lies in the meticulously consistent sartorial work processes that are implemented in the making and fabrication thereof. For we were once privy to see all the different look books and drawings that it takes to make a single collection. The wealth of detail and precision was truly astounding, so when seeing the Acne Studios collections on the runway or live in person you know you are witnessing a creation as a result of a superior production process. And this shows.

So nothing to reinvent here. No false millennial dreams. No deconstruction necessary. Just beautiful and elegant knitted sweaters slowly becoming classy coats. Timeless. Superior. Beautiful. Only by Acne Studios with Jonny Johansson.























Story by Sandro and photos from ACNE.

There is something delightfully perverse – of course – about John Galliano’s latest heroic attempt to rewrite the annals of fashion history. For here the old master goes on a brave crusade doomed to nothing less but sudden death or failure in a titanic struggle to open up a new page in the book of the glamour so as to introduce us to what can only be called Millennial Glam.

By means of artisanal tailoring.

As we already noticed a reversible blazer coat-jacket in the Y/Project collection yesterday in Paris, here for Maison Margiela the vivisection of sartorial principles is taken even one step further in that in addition to cross cultural cuts between street, sports, and classic menswear, at the same traditional fabrics are used in direct opposition and contrast to artificial materials like rubber, poly-urethane, and gabardine. And that thus the sartorial effects can be rather unpredictable. But maybe that is what Glam is all about: For Ziggy played guitar.

No, this is Glam for the Millennial Age, which only a master like Galliano could provide as he splashes, splits, splatters, and splices between different materials, cuts, colors, and styles, using rubber for cardigans (ouch), turning overcoats into jackets and trench coats into formal wear, leaving seams and linings half untouched or unfinished, so as to give the impression that all was tailored in a form of irrepressable haste, waste, and hurry – as if when so many millennials would probably rather be on their smart phones rather than to pay attention to sullen bourgeois sartorial propriety.

All is revamped, rebooted, and turned topsy-turvy and inside out, and the appropriate concept connotation for this type of sartorial dissection activity is apparently ‘décortiquer’ (to hull or to peel in French), which may probably translate into American English under circumstances as Peel my House. For mister Galliano calls his provocative creations ‘house ideas’, with the brilliantly sordid silver lining that some of the artisanal tailoring may have been done in the name of Glam & Slam (notice the Glam Slam Bags) and SMS (Security Margiela Sneakers) for Maison Margiela AW18.

It’s Brutish, it’s Kinky, and it’s Beautiful – it’s John Galliano for Maison Margiela AW18 with the Millennial Glam collection.

























Story by Sandro and photos from Maison Margiela.

Paris FW opening with the Glenn Martens Y / Project on the first day is a grateful reminder always that A you are in Paris and B that there is this unlimited and boundless pool of creativity in fashion readily available in myriad of colors, shapes, concepts, materials, and people. Ever eclectic, and always changing mister Martens from Belgium, who has build a distinct global cult following over the years for his marvelous creations, mixes in hyper non-conventional and post-contemporary style both streetwear and sportswear with classy and traditional chic, which is something, frankly, which only very few (bar none) menswear designers are capable of doing. And in this respect Y / Project is beyond any particular trend in that it manages to set a trend.

Hoodies under classic blazers, faux furs (of course), UGG city loafers under swollen pajama trousers, buckled urban cowboys with traditional bespoke overcoats with double panels and visible linings, suits turned halfway inside-out with oversized lapels, cuffs or collars, not to mention oversized pleated shoulders, and – something which was probably never seen before and which might end up in a museum one day (see if you can spot it in our slide show below) – the reversible jacket-coat blazer, where the outside is a dinner or business blazer and where the inside functions as an outdoor coat and street jacket (zipper and all) – just in case (so very Parisian) you would want to go and be cool and smoke alone outside for a few minutes while having to return to your business meeting – or hot restaurant date – just right after. But you are prepared.

And so the Y / Project always seems to move on like a grand incredible tableau of pretty awesome characters inspired by Breughel the Elder that have both personality and style. Which of course is always good for at least one iconic image.

Vogue and others jumped on the one image right away. And so here does Best Dressed Man, for whether this was his intention or not, by creating the oversized hoodie and by setting it against a blown-up doudoune (down jacket) à la Moncler, mister Martens is onto something. For here is an iconic / ironic image fit as metaphor for our warped times picturing a self-absorbed urban streetwear millennial wearing expensive winter luxury goods but who is no longer able to see or look even but one inch or centimeter beyond himself.

Add to this a casual look of a set of plugged in headphones, whether that be to listen to music or to chatter on a most recently purchased latest model smart phone, and voilà, here you have the perfect millennial passenger ready to take on the world in the name of that grand 21st century concept and project called ‘me’. Autism incorporated. Louis Vuitton Supreme. Adidas Gucci. G-Star Chanel. Or simply the Glenn Martens Y / Project. Ahead of the times as always. And the opening act for Paris Fashion Week Homme.
























Words by Sandro and photos from Y / Project.

Read on to check out BDMOTP’s exclusive interview with Sylvain Fischmann, artistic director of young and up-coming French tailor-made brand RIVES — Tailor made suits Paris.

  1. Are you planning to competing directly with Savile Row and Via Monte Napoleone?

We’re not that into competition. Both Savile Row and Via Napoleone are temples of know-how and tailor-made, but RIVES has a totally different approach, not contradictory but with another vision of tailor made. We have many customers of one or the other who come to see us precisely for something more creative, modern, slick and fashionable.

  1. Is the opening up of shop at Printemps Hommein Paris on the 2nd floor the beginning of a global presence for RIVES?

Opening a big corner in the new version of Printemps de l’Homme is definitely a big step and an exciting challenge for us. When Printemps came to us, we immediately felt the relevance and potential of this project. We think RIVES as a whole brand and we develop it with a reasonable rhythm so as to always master the service, the processes, the quality while being self-financed.

  1. If not in Europe would you chose first rather to open up shop in Shanghai or in New York?

Firstly in New York without hesitation! We have a great attachment and a good knowledge of the city and the market. Added to that, we are completely captivated by its energy, spirit and creativity!

Urban chic from Paris heading for New York

  1. As for quality & innovation in materials and fabrics what would be the RIVESrelationship with French weaver Dormeuil?

Our association with DORMEUIL is not random. Very attached to the traditional values of the couture, tailor-made and more generally to the French know-how in the universe of the fashion and luxury, we found in DORMEUIL the ideal weaver in terms of quality and creativity.

Their approach is focused on the future. From patterns to weaving techniques, through the development of exclusive fabrics those have become famous around the world, DORMEUIL is recognized as much for the quality of its fabrics as for its creativity, research and development. A perfect match.

  1. What’s the secret behind the quick turnaround time and the great pricing on high-end suits, tuxedos, jackets, and coats ordered?

The quality/price ratio is at the heart of our positioning and our thinking since our creation. Unlike ready-to-wear, we don’t have stocks to manage, so we can allow smaller margins than in ready-to-wear. Also, the secret lies in the quality and proximity of our partners’ relationships. We select craft shops, fabric suppliers, staff, and artistic collaborations based on human feelings. Everyone we’re working with share the same passion for authenticity, beauty and fun. As for the quick turnaround, it’s thanks to the expertise of the workshops we work with. Thanks to their professionalism, passion and commitment. This is the advantage of working with traditional workshops and not factories.

  1. As a style would you say ‘chic urbain’ would coverRIVES, or would you prefer ‘contemporary elegance’?

We avoid limiting ourselves to a single style! Positioned on the tailor maid luxury streetwear, RIVES is creating a unique artistic and urban footprint. We have in our DNA these urban, contemporary and chic sides.

chic, chic, very chic

  1. You work with a team of Artistic Director, Designer, Stylist, and maybe a Photographer in your studio – what is the main creative advantage of having the functions separated rather than combined?

While I am co-founder of the brand with our “rock” Antoine Salmon-Peugnet, I’m also its Artistic Director. This status gives me the freedom to explore whatever I want with whoever I want, while keeping it all together. The collections, the points of sales’ design, the website, or the look-books and campaigns are part of the same vision, shared with talented people whom we have the chance to work with:

  • Raphaël Lugassy (photographer),
  • Marc Ange (designer),
  • HER (music band),
  • Jisbar (artist),
  • Aslove (DJ),
  • Keziah Jones (musician),
  • Jeung Hae Him (video artist),
  • Gaëlle Dessauvages (PR and strategy consultant), and
  • Lamine Sow, our flagship’s director, who has been involved the past 2 years in the development strategy and creative process.
  1. Is your collaboration with Pop Artist Jisbar- aka the French Basquiat – in the contrast he provides with a traditional look of French sartorial elegance perhaps not a little bit too risqué for an international cosmopolitan client?

We don’t try to delight. We work with the heart, without asking any questions. We work with talented and human people, and we just want to share this! If we had to collaborate with a controversial artist we would raise the question, but if it’s just a matter of taste, we trust people. This is the artistic approach that interests us, and the opportunity to work and promote these artists is a chance, a pleasure.

RIVES: modern art meets classic tailoring

  1. How does your relationship with The Woolmark Companyaffect the quality of the brand?

We work with the biggest weavers in France, the UK, and Italy, all affiliated to The Woolmark Company. It is natural to get closer to this organization, which represents a real support for a young brand like us, especially for the sourcing of materials allowing the realization of new products, but also for communication: working with such a label gives us credibility and confidence in our project. We met at The Woolmark Company very passionate and supportive people.

  1. If he wore RIVES, who would you say is the Best Dressed Man on the Planet?

No. Idea. What I can tell is ‘who’ gave me the passion for clothes when I was a child: Clint Eastwood in A fistful of dollars, Albator, Sean Connery in Never say never again, and Slash.

No comment

Interview by Sandro and photos from Rives.


Had le Corbusier still been alive today he would undoubtedly have worn The Whip by Gentle Monster. For this is celebrity and designer eyewear only. These items are so cool and stylish that we are giving them a second look and review today right before Christmas, so that, like a luxury watch for whose delivery you need to wait a cool 6 months or up to a year, you can still order them right now on time for use on front row during fashion week in June 2018. For Gentle Monster is the ultimate Christmas gift to oneself.

Yet despite having done a previous review of Gentle Monster, we are doing it again because getting one’s hands on such pictures (as with all high design items) is a veritable Tour de Force and an occasion and opportunity not to be missed. Press kits and fashion pictures / shoots come and go, and even celebrity pics do the rounds rather easily, but to be able to find the latest photos of a high design chair, table, lamp, or aye, even a fork or spoon, is usually far more difficult. Reason being is that what such photos bring is not just the introduction of a new style, but of an entire new concept.

So this is why, and for those who are familiar with Hermès or other lifestyle products it will not come as a surprise, that each new pair of designer glasses released and launched in the market becomes an event in and of itself, where a carefully crafted design and concept is introduced with the latest encomium, and with a peculiar name, a different shape, and a new outrageous color to a hungry fashion public always wanting more. For these are not mere products, but items which will come to denote the latest power, privilege and exclusivity.

And so it is with Gentle Monster. Expect to find them in the world’s most famous concept stores (sadly Colette’s in Paris is closing this week), or at a few very select high-end eyewear stores.

Following is the list of names and titles of the full Gentle Monster collection featured below:

Absente, Add Moon, Ami Adam, Black Peter, Deborah, Granny Ring, In Scarlet, Jumping Jack, Last Bow, Lovepunch, Lovesome, Mad Crush, Odd Odd, Second Boss, Sign of Two, Switch Back, The Whip, and Tool.

Words by Sandro and photos from Gentle Monster.















Here, at last, is the brand that needs no introduction in the world of man’s fashion as they make most of the fine and beautiful fabrics of which many of the bespoke men’s costumes in London, Paris, Milan, and New York are made. This is how executives are dressed and how movie stars go about looking good – in SCABAL (an acronym for Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise). Scabal is at the origin of the creation of the bunch booklets used today by most of the great tailors on the planet.

Founded in 1938, SCABAL is the world’s foremost producer of fabrics, supplying elite tailors and fashion houses across the globe. Each season SCABAL’s team of designers and artisan weavers create collections of the finest fabrics at the company’s English mill (from a recent press release).

So Best Dressed Man is honored today to present to you a small Q&A interview with Campbell Chrichton Dunn, creative director and chief of design at SCABAL:

  • Is it true that the suit should be carrying the man rather than the man wearing the suit?

I think this is true of all clothes, they should complement your personality and make you feel more confident.  A well-cut suit that fits you perfectly will help your posture. This is achieved not only by the suit’s cut itself, but also by any man’s tendency to stand up straight and walk correctly when they are wearing a suit.

  • What is the best occasion and the best way for a man to wear a pochette / pocket square?

I think if the pochette is well chosen and folded well it can fit any occasion. I like to see a fancy printed silk roughly folded worn with a casual jacket, but am equally keen on wearing a navy business suit with a sharply folded, white crisp pocket square.

  • Style-wise, is there too much urban chic out there today and too little classic & traditional elegance for men?

There is now more choice for men’s clothing and the menswear market is more diverse than ever before and this is not a bad thing as it gives more style choices to men. I would say there is an evolution in the classic way of dressing where people are now mixing more formal items like suits with t shirts or more loosely cut styles, suits and jackets are still an important wardrobe item but men are changing the way they wear them.

  • If SCABAL were to open up shop in the States, what city would be the best venue?

I would love to see our first store open in New York City, it’s the fashion capital of the US.

  • Besides personal initials what are some of the main reasons a client would order under-collar or on-the-cuff (shirt) embroidery?

We get a lot if customers adding important dates, wedding days, birthdays etc.  It gives them a unique product and also adds a discovery talking point that they can choose to reveal or not.

  • Is the legend true that it is the softness of the water which is the best kept secret of the old SCABAL mill at Huddersfield?

The reason why the fabric mills in England are located in the county of Yorkshire is due to the terrain of the Pennine Hills. In the 18th century, the hills allowed the water to run down easily to the mills, which were then powered by water. These days, all our fabrics are still finished by being washed in the local waters which definitely gives them an extremely soft touch.


  •  How does The Woolmark Company fit into the farm-to-table product philosophy of SCABAL?

Both Scabal and The Woolmark Company share the same values when it comes to wool.  To create the finest quality cloth by using the best Australian Merino wool available, with a focus on traceable, sustainable sourcing. We joined forces with Woolmark to establish the Scabal Noble Wool Club, showcasing a collection of the finest quality ultrafine merino fabrics and have recently worked with them again to launch a short film showcasing a selection of Artisans who use the best raw materials to create products of distinction across tailoring, Michelin star cuisine and customized motorcycles.

  • Is it true that every tailor on Savile Row carries SCABAL bunch books?

Scabal provides a large selection of luxury tailors with our bunch books and that includes many located on Savile Row.


  • What kind of sustainable development is practiced at the SCABAL Noble Wool Club?

The Noble Wool Club creates superfine wool by working only with family run Australian Merino wool farms that must meet strict environmental and ethical criteria. At the same time, Scabal works with these farms to preserve traditional methods of wool growing in the face of increasingly low quality international competition.

  • Which one is your personal favorite bunch book?

At the moment my favorite bunch books is ‘Loch Lomond’ with its wool super 140’s and cashmere fabrics with soft elegant designs.

  • Is SCABAL, in fact, what always wears James Bond?

SCABAL has provided fabric to many of the costume designers on James Bond films over the years however, we did not make any of the actual suits.

(only Miss Moneypenny knows if 007 is wearing SCABAL on this mission)

  • Who – wearing SCABAL – would be the best dressed man on the planet?

I think someone like Eddie Redmayne or Ryan Gosling would look smart and elegant in a Scabal suit.

Interview by Sandro and pictures by SCABAL except James Bond which is to be found free of credits and free to reuse without commercial purpose on Google.


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