Your pants are running wild.

It’s anarchy in the streets as straight legs go awry. Inseams are out, waists are wasted, and no one knows how to stop it.

If they’re chinos, of course, you can roll them rather than committing to the cuff, but try it with slacks and you’ll look sloppy and affected (and not in a good way).

It works best with flatter colors, of course, since pinstripes have that symmetry that can sometimes be thrown off with alteration, but that being said, this trend is all about change, so take the risk and cuff ’em.

Best of all, it can take a pair of slacks you’ve shoved into the back of your closet and, for the pittance of $10 to $15 (depending on your tailor) breathe new life into a garment you’d all but relegated to the donations pile.

So get out there and tame those hems. Only you can prevent boring work slacks.

Your tailor can save you. This season, there’s a resurgence of cuffed pants. Hold your objections, gentlemen, they’re no longer for investment bankers and old men from the Upper East side, and there are distinct advantages to this returning trend.

Think about it: it allows you to raise the hem an extra half inch to an inch, because of the perception of added length. This rids mens’ slacks of the dreaded bunching at the calf that’s symptomatic of being just a little too long, and the single biggest tell to an ill-fitting pair of pants. The extra weight keeps everything smooth and neat, too. Most importantly, who doesn’t love a little extra flair on a typically boring garment?

Posted By: John

Image Credit: Dress Code Custom

You may recognize Niklas Ankar’s loud plaids and bright, festive chinos from New York Fashion Weeks past, because they’re difficult to forget. …You make your surrounding happy in a certain way. Ankar champions the use of contrasting patterns and you’d be hard pressed to find more pink in a single collection than if you were lucky enough to catch him during Spring 2012 Fashion Week.

Ankar contrasts the forward-thinking patterns and colors with a classic fit that he says calls back to movies and resorts of the 1950s, with tight lapels and slim fitting chinos that cut the narrow profile we’ve come to expect from European designers.

Best of all, Ankar’s clothing (what precious little of it you can find on his website: ankarsweden.com) is moderately priced and on par with his lookbook (which, of course, you can also see on his website).

Most striking about Ankar’s collection, though, is the prominence of Kikoys, a versatile piece that can function as anything from a skirt to a scarf. According to Ankar, they were originally used by the fishermen in East Africa and they wore and still wear them instead of trousers.

Now, he says, every second kid, woman and even man in Sweden wears them as scarves, (they’re) a great accessory that will brighten up or tone down whatever else you are wearing. And it’s absolutely true, especially because the versatility allows Ankar to use patterns that even he wouldn’t dare put on a pair of pants or a jacket, with bright, peacock patterns and brilliant frills.

Pick one up for a cool 350 Swedish Kroen (that’s about $50 to us stateside, and Ankar’s online shop offers the option to pay in good ole US Dollars).

While Ankar’s clothing certainly isn’t for everyone, as it takes a certain sort of sartorial commitment to wear a pair of blue plaid trousers, if you’re the type of man that likes to make such a statement, look no further than this Swedish-born son of a textile man.

 

Niklas Ankar himself

Posted By: John

You wouldn’t know it, but those khakis you’re about to buy in blue, sage, and red? They’re actually the same carpenter pants you wore in the 90s. Only they’ve been re-cut in a slimmer, modern style and over-dyed in bold colors.

Ginger Root Design

Overdye red khakis, vest converted from damaged blazer, and fall men’s blazer.

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

At Ginger Root Design, everything that is old is new again… and we mean that in the literal sense. Owners Kristen Swensen and Erin Derge have created a unique brand that includes a boutique, clothing line, and tailoring shop that focuses on reviving the past.

Swensen made the move to DC in 2009 and ran a tailoring business out of her apartment in Shaw called ReVamp. When demand for her services grew, Swensen called upon her best friend from Minnesota, Derge, and soon the two red-haired Midwestern women were at the helm of what is now one of the most buzzed about lines in DC.

The charming U Street shop is chock-full of locally made men’s and women’s clothing, neckwear, cufflinks, and more. Among the accessories and artwork from talented locals is the Ginger Root line, all eco-friendly and upcycled from old clothes or vintage/surplus fabrics. You’ll find a variety of unique pieces for the modern guy and the vintage-inspired gent — pocketed men’s button-ups; revamped vintage vests with stripes and decorative applique embellishments on the back; and the signature Ginger Root ascots, available in a variety of colors and patterns.

 

Ginger Root Mens vest: vintage refurbished vest that has added stripes on the back from an old tie.

Photo by Mark Silva

Ascot recycled from vintage tie.

Photo by Ginger Root

Above the boutique is a recently renovated tailoring/design space  where they restore treasured clothing items. Here the pair and a group of alteration experts work on everything from tailoring suits in a fitted, tapered way (something old-school tailors may protest) to simply hemming dress pants.

We also get a number of men that want us to modernize/redesign old pieces they have had around for 5-10 years but can’t let go of, they wrote in an exclusive interview with BDMOTP. Sometimes shopping your closet can cost the same as buying something brand new, but it’s more unique, custom tailored, and often times those older garments were made better (especially vintage pieces).

The turnaround time for altering a suit is typically two weeks, although they can swing basic alterations to pants and button-ups in a week. Tailoring for suits costs from $50 to $150, whereas hemming pants or taking in the waist is generally $25. They are by appointment only, so be sure to call ahead.

As if a clothing line/boutique/tailor isn’t ambitious enough, the ladies also host basic sewing classes and hope to have a men’s clothing pop-up in the near future, so be sure to check their blog, where you can also see some examples of their work and pick up some sewing terminology.

Fashion is contagious, and each day someone takes a risk with their wardrobe, they help give another person a little boost of confidence to try a new style as well, they wrote. DC has great momentum, and even though there’s a lot of work to do yet in the fashion scene here, it’s getting better every day.

Modern Guy display.

Photo by Ginger Root

Vintage-inspired display with Ascots.

Photo by Ginger Root

New pocketed men’s button-up, paired with outlined tie, and overdye khakis.

Photo by Ginger Root

Cuffs for men by Metal Musings, owner Erin’s mom.

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

All men’s blazer closed, converted from vintage blazers.

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

Overdye red khakis, vest converted from damaged blazer, and fall men’s blazer

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

Ginger Root Design

1530 U St. NW
Neighborhood: U Street

Store Hours:
Monday, 2 to 7 p.m.
Thursday, Friday, Saturday Noon to 7 p.m.
Sunday 1 to 6 p.m.

With a team of tailors willing to travel the world in order to provide customers with the perfect fit, Taji gives a whole new meaning to “bespoke.” Founded in 1998 by Taci Seker, this Istanbul boutique in Nisantasi delivers the finest fabrics and artistry when it comes to custom menswear, crafting everything from staple dress shirts to formal tuxedos. Beyond the bespoke, the shop also carries collections from top European brands such as Stephano Ricci, Valentino, Albini, Santoni, Harris, and more. The store is impecibly organized, making it easy to find whatever it is you are looking for. The tailors will adjust and help you make sure you have the most perfect fit possible, saving you a trip to an outside tailor.

However, you don´t have to go as far as Istanbul to find these exotic fabrics and designs. You are in luck in you reside in New York City, because there just so happens to be a store location there as well.

Website: Taji
Taji Giyim San. ve Tic. Ltd. Sti. Tesvikiye Cad. No: 18/A Nisantasi – Istanbul / Turkey 34365
Taji Fashion New York-675 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10065 USA
Photo images from the Taji website

On the first block of Kloof Street sits astoreisgood or, to be more specific, “South Africa’s first contemporary lifestyle store. Opened in 2004, this store strives for originality and exclusivity with the products they offer. The a-team hand-selects items that range from designer footwear, clothing, and accessories to books, music, art, and gifts fit for the street culture nut on the lookout for limited edition Adidas sneakers, vintage-looking tees, and graphic design publications.

Items are sourced from all over the world, and brands in stock include Citizen Band, Nike, Cheap Monday, RVCA, Feiyue, WESC, Adidas originals, and more. Funky lighting and a modern, sleek store appearance make s shopping at astoreisgood an easy and relaxing experience. For those of you not located in South Africa, you can also shop online. They even have a blog so you can find out what´s new and hot according to the offical astoreisgood team.

For more information, visit the A store website.

34 Kloof Street

8001 Cape Town

Store Hours:

Monday through Friday, 9:00 to 17:00

Saturday, 9:00 to 15:00

Sunday 10:00 to 14:00

A StoreA StoreA StoreA Store

Photo Images from a store facebook page

Jakub Arnold, the former managing director of Carhartt, brought an eclectic selection of grownup street wear clothing to Vienna when he opened Arnold’s in 2010. He wanted Vienna to boost urban shops like the ones found in Amsterdam, London, or Paris, so he created his own. Here you’ll find a variety of international brands, including EDWIN denim, Carhartt, TOMS, Brooklyn We Go Hard, Dejan, Filson, G-Star Raw, Naked and Famous, Retrosuperfuture shades, Happy Socks, and Red Wing Shoes as well as pieces from some of Vienna’s most wanted designers like Maiko and Kawayan. Be sure to check out the new Carhartt x A.P.C. collection that hit shelves October 19 — a intriguing collaboration combing French minimalism and American rustic wear.

Arnold’s is located in the trendy district 7, one of Vienna´s most fashionable areas.  They strive to make the shop approachable and fun, decorated with old sewing machines, vintage signs, even an old dryer!  But don´t think for a moment that their brands aren´t modern and covetted…everything at Arnold’s is right on trend.

For more information, visit the Arnold’s website or the Arnold´s Facebook page.

Location:

Siebensterngasse 52

1070 Vienna, Austria

Store Hours:

Monday to Friday, 11:00 to 19:00

Saturday, 11:00 to 17:00

Items in Pictures 3 and 4

Carhartt hickman coat, GRP Firenze sweat, DenimDemon jeans, Incase iPhone case, Carhartt gloves and shirt, Merz b. Schwanen shirt, RE: belt, Happy Socks striped, Carhartt beanie

BWGH L/S Shirt, Demon Denim T-Shirt L/S, GRP-Pullover, Carhartt Cord, SUPER, NIKE Air Epic, Carhartt Camo Backpack

Since 2003, this international emblem of Argentine dressing has worked to perfect a timeless men’s style. The high-end brand designs clothing that fits impeccably and gives off an aura of sexy, effortless ruggedness, all while looking completely polished. The fitted Italian wool suits, basic luxe T-shirts, slim pants, charcoal sweaters, leather jackets, and more are all essentials for the best-dressed man. Citing motorcycles and classic cars as inspiration, it’s no wonder Etiqueta Negra designs are every bit as masculine and beautiful as an Aston Martin DB5.

Not only do they offer top notch apparel, the brand offers fragrance and accessories as well. Try the Acero watch for a touch of dark style or one of their formal suits for your next wedding.

Visit the Etiqueta Negra website or follow them on Facebook  for more information.

Vedia 3652 C1430DAH

Dot Baires, Buenos Aires

Hours

10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra

 

Offbeat, chic, hip, and most importantly: unisex…I serve you with vocabulary used to describe The Kooples, which has, quite literally, taken over Paris and the UK, with 184 shops opened in just 4 years.  The Kooples brand has their main shops ¨The Kooples¨ and ¨The Kooples Sport¨ shops which feature a more casual look.

The brand was created by the Elicha brothers- Raphael, Alex and Laurent, who wanted to combine French style with a little bit of British edge.

It´s not just clothes…it´s a concept. The backstory on the Kooples (the french take on the pronouciation of the word ¨couples¨) is an interesting one: that clothes should and will be exchanged between couples, that after awhile couples begin to dress similarly, and of course promoting the boyfriend/girlfriend shopping together experience.  There are two distinct collections, one for men and one for women, however, the two collections complement each other and are meant to be ¨borrowed¨. As one might conclude, the clothes are more masculine than girly-with the idea that girls usually borrow a man´s blazer or jeans (hence the nicknames ¨the boyfriend blazer¨ or ¨the boyfriend jeans¨).  Their mottos include a closet for two and till fashion do them apart.

Their advertising campaigns, which feature, you guessed it-couples wearing similar fabrics and colors of clothing is original and intriguing one. I actually got lost during my Paris bike tour because I stopped to pull over and look at the window display of a Sport Kooples store on Rue Des Francs Bourgeois while the others biked ahead.

The stores launched France, spread quickly to the UK and then to Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and now have recently opened up in the USA in select Bloomingdales stores in New York and New Jersey.

For more information, visit the Kooples webpage or Facebook page.

Photo Credits: Couples Photos from the Kooples Facebook page.

Posted By: Lori

 

The world of mens shopping in Berlin is a jumbled, interesting mix of vintage shops, trendy fashion mens boutiques, department stores, tiny artisan stores, and more. The environment makes for a very eclectic and creative shopping experience. Whatever you need, you can find it in Berlin, more specifically, at SOTO Berlin.

SOTO Berlin opened in April 2010 and continues to expand their brands, making it worth checking out regularly to see what new and trending merchandise they´ve brought to the table. The founders Philip Gaedicke, Omer Ben-Michael and David Fischer pride themselves on presenting a modern take on how a man should dress to the Berlin customer.

The shop carries some brands difficult to find elsewhere in Berlin, ranging from Sperry Top Sider to Our Legacy. Their merchandise is created by European, American and even Asian designers.

I don´t doubt that you could find almost anything you are looking for at this shop, considering the dynamic collection of brands they carry. You can shop online and they offer free delivery on orders within Germany.

Obviously the store has been successful because they recently opened up a new location. The second location is actually in the same building as the first, although it has a separate store entrance. It´s more of an extension to the old store…which means…more brands and merchandise for shoppers! So make sure to kill two birds with one stone and visit both stores when you head over to shop.

The SOTO store website is fresh and easy to navigate, and you can also follow SOTO Berlin on Facebook and Twitter.

SOTO STORE BERLIN
Torstrasse 72, 10119 Berlin, Germany

OPENING TIMES
Monday-Friday: 12 pm – 8 pm
Saturday: 11 am – 8 pm

Photo Credits: SOTO store images by Robert Wunsch and clothes/shoe images from the SOTO store facebook page

Posted By: Lori

African textiles generated a lot of interest at New York Fashion Week.

An example of African designers presenting at New York Fashion Week.

Ozwald Boetang

 

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