It seems like Glenn Martens is finally coming of age with his grand and eternal Y / Project. After exploring for years all kinds of interesting memes & themes (underground, French imperial chic, emaciated drug chic, etc. you name it), this cult and celebrity designer from Belgium finally somehow perhaps realized that there is some commercial value to be had to employ his formidable talents towards everybody’s classic favorite of today: Urban Chic.

In fact you could say that that Mr Martens is now no longer arriviste (a beginner) but rather arrivé – that he has arrived. For these grand Y / Project collections are now finally going to go full mainstream. In bigger and brighter venues and no longer shown for a select cult following in tumbling steamboats (not kidding) or underground clubs. And this is best for all of us as Mr Martens acknowledges himself while we read the press release, that it is really all about ‘wearability’ and to make things ‘easy and elegant’ – and not just for the show – as if to say, New York, Shanghai, London, Milan — here I come.

As such, always first on the calendar, the Glenn Martens Y/Project makes for a great and appropriate opener of Paris Fashion Week Homme every time, this time miraculously coinciding with what Parisians fondly know of as the once-per-year Fête de la Musique (an across the city music street festival where pick up bands and musicians make musical mayhem and sounds in cafés, bars, restaurants and on the streets), with the hottest and most suffocating day (over 100F°) Paris had seen in over a decade, as well as with the summer solstice.

And thus, thanks to Y / Project SS18, an easy and elegant kick start for fashion season Paris commenced with the perfect BANG – for summer has arrived.

Words by Sandro and photos from Y / Project

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Philipp Plein had two nights of shows and two epic parties this season at Milan Uomo Fashion Week. Actually — if you count Billionaire, his third line, he actually had three shows. As his first show and after party were pretty epic thanks to a collection of luxury cars, an appearance from model Jeremy Meeks and bumper cars, Plein Sport had quite a bit to live up to.

The show started as beautiful girls marched towards poles along the catwalk and began quite the series of pole dancing. Mexican masked street fighters entered in boxing rings and began to fight. BDMOTP actually wasn’t sure where to look, there was so much going on. Both male and female models began to strut their stuff, wearing the newest athleisure looks, bold and beyond, as it usually is with Plein.

Grey was ever present in the collection as tee shirts and shorts layered over Spandex leggings, topped with sporty vests and puffy jackets walked the runway. Monogrammed high-school sports tees and neon embellishments topped the sporty layers. Loud and proud, Plein also incorporated the number 78 on many of his looks. Armbands, leggings with built in knee pads, shin guards duffel bags all accessorized the line, and of course, only the coolest sneakers with words like “faster” written across Velcro straps were present. Surirprise, surprise, model Jeremy Meeks also graced the Plein Sport with his presence too.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Plein.

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Fratelli Rossetti brings some special newness to their collection for SS18 at Milan Fashion Week Mens. Aptly titled “Ocean Weave,” the shoe collection is woven by hand in fishing villages around Italy. Three kinds of weaves are present in the new collection: a large, perforated pattern, a zigzag and the Rossetti signature micro-weave. Additionally, the collection celebrates the 60th anniversary of the brand, which is still owned and run by the Rossetti family.

Each shoe in the collection is made from only the best leather and suede, ensuring you can comfortably wear the shoes without socks in the hot summer. The leather soles are also hand-painted in with the same colors as the rest of the shoe.

This season, the colors were rather unique. The tones, reflecting the title, were created specifically to mimic the colors of the ocean, like shades of the ocean, the sky, the sand and the greenish shrubbery. The presentation was set up specifically to feel the the ocean vibes, with models sitting upon ropes and rocks, Fratelli Rossetti shoes delicately place on their feet.

BDMOTP especially loves the bright greenish yellow loafer with the larger weave. Once of the most originally footwear pieces we’ve spotted for SS18, we can’t help but crave to walk the sandy shores in this stylish shoe.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Fratelli Rossetti.

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Welcome to Bar Tiptoe, where Santoni is serving up fresh espresso, warm croissants and delicious footwear. Yup, you heard right. For SS18, Santoni decided to change things up a bit and host a small soiree featuring coffee, snacks and shoes, all served up on a silver platters. After all, everything seems to look better served to you on a silver platter, right?

Waiters walked around with their trays, you never did know what you might get. Perhaps a small pistachio tart, perhaps a cold glass of fruit infused water…or maybe a pair of deep green dresses shoes with two class side buckles. In fact, this season seemed to be characterized by the deep, rich green and blue leather tones. The brushed grey leather was also a a special look, giving the shoe both depth and texture.

A few selections of white dress shoes were passed around on trays, unique styles, a whole new world away from the typical gym shoe, that buckled and laced. A shiny patent leather loafer glimmered in the sunlight, perfect for that wedding or dressier occasion you can’t see to find the right footwear for. Summer is complete here too, with a snazzy pair of leather flip flops so you can look just as cool at the beach as you do walking around the city, the town or at work. Santoni’s got you for every occasion, it seems.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Santoni.

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Ermanno Scervino showed their SS18 collection at Milan Fashion Week Uomo, entitled “Today I Love You.” This season, Scervino chose to go a more casual, modern route than in past years, creating wearable weekend looks for men. He took inspiration from different time periods and cultures, especially Great Britain.

BDMOTP loved the palm tree sweaters layered over striped tees and casual khaki shorts. In fact, the palm trees were the chosen motif of the collection and the oversize Bermuda shorts, a tribute to the Prince of Wales, was a distinctive feature of the line. Just because the line seemed more relaxed doesn’t mean it wasn’t impeccably tailored, of course, and each thread was perfectly woven into the next on each garment. There was the occasional suit appearance paired with soft leather weekender bags and briefcases, and military-inspired outerwear was layered over plaid button-up shirts and white denim pants.

In case you forgot the title of the collection, belts spelling out “Today I Love You” were found on some of the looks. The athleisure trend is still going strong for SS18, and don’t be surprised to see casual button-up shirts half tucked into relaxed jogging pants, sweats or track pants, lined with a strip or band along the side. Sneakers sans laces also paired along with some of the looks, keeping the collection light, casual and carefree.

BDMOTP favorite: The plaid overcoat layered over a red and white striped sweater.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ermanno Scervino.

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Italian-inspired for an Italian brand, Cifonelli presented their SS18 collection at Milan Fashion Week Uomo. Inspired by the sweet life of 1950s Rome, the collection wass stylish, chic and and modern, despite it’s 50s ideals.  After chatting with the designer, BDMOTP decided this was Cifonelli’s most intricate collection yet, and we can’t wait to sport some of the pieces.

With soft tones of grey and beige plaid (and let’s not forget the traditional black and white) the collection has a very Cary Grant vibe, thanks to the single-breasted jackets with three-button closures, a relaxed yet tailored fit that sits well on any man, despite size or shape.

The Renatto jacket is another BDMOTP favorite, featuring a four-button closure and patch pockets. The Paolo jacket is a bit heavier for a chillier spring day, finished in both tweed and suede. No matter how hot or warm, the straw fedoras and open-collared shirts will keep a gentleman cool and sexy at the same time. Sandals and snazzy dress shoes are reminiscent of the 1950s inspirations, and we can just see one of the models now climbing onto his Vespa for a quick spin around the city. Or wait, was that now, or was it 1955? Could be either!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Cifonelli.

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DAKS took a spin at the Henley Royal Regatta for SS18 at Milan Fashion Week. The story was set right from the get go: a runway complete with a large wooden boat and other vintage artifacts signifying the start of a day filled with crew races. And one runway show, of course.

DAKS always gives a whole new meaning to the word dapper. Retro looks of baggys, striped shirts and sweaters tucked in beneath vests, leather jackets and blazers set the scene. Models walked the runway with derby hats (Daks calls them boat racing hats) and false mustaches, setting the scene for an antique day at at the races.

Trends for SS18 include the baggy linen white pant and the concept of tucking anything and everything into the pant, such as vests, sweaters, shirts, tees all in basic, warm tones like beige, off white and brown. While the looks are decidedly a tribute to the past, modern touches still come through, like plaid for spring, stripes and of course, solid leather. To top it off, hats featured small House Check ribbons.

BDMOTP is always a fan of DAKS, as their preppy, British looks sit well with our savvy, sartorial readers. This season we can’t help but love the vintage vibe, so hop onboard and pickup your hat for the regatta here!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from DAKS.

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This season, Guiseppe Zanotti took his footwear line and branched out. Using interesting new materials on his shoes for SS18 such as denim and neoprene, the Zanotti look has always been wild, but this was a whole new ballgame. Inspired by the 90s, Zanotti took his bedazzled and colorful sneakers to the top once again, but added some functional twists. Besides the new shoe fabrics, Zanotti also showed some clothing such as jackets and pants, plus some backpacks.

Part of the collection was more subdued than Zanotti usually takes it, but with small touches like a silver bow tie on a loafer or simply some new, cool colors like an olive green or a grey suede. As usual, his kitschy sneakers were a very prominent part of the collection, with gold, silver and colorful adornments. The neoprene sneak were a modern experiment, one we think will work thanks to the comfort of the shoes. Some of the SS18 top styles also include a denim loafer and boot, both new takes on what musicians from the 1990s ofen wore.

“Mandals,” or man-sandals, were also part of the collection. In both black and military colors, Zanotti took some inspiration from the Greek gladiator sandal, using a variety of thick straps and a wide, flat sole for a summery yet urban, stylish look.

We’re used to Zanotti being creative, but this year he really took things to a new level, incorporating some different styles and concepts into his footwear –there really is something for every man in the SS18 collection.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Zanotti.

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Corneliani showed a strong SS18 collection at Milan Uomo this season, with five different capsule collections allowing clients to discover the perfect jacket and outfits based on their preferred hobby. Each of the five collections was dedicated to a specific activity: biking on motorcycles, riding horses, driving vintage cars, sailing and golfing. Based on the activity, a small line was created with clothes inspired by it.

Perfectly complimenting the male shape, the jackets were the main point of each collection. Biking was leather and lambskin, perfect for a windy day cruising on the motorbike. Riding featured jersey knit and driving was created from wool, extra tear-resistant. Sailing was blue, and of course wind and waterproof, and golfing had a preppy vibe, made from knit. Zips, buttons and insets made each jacket perfectly compliment the hobby. From material to color, these capsule collections were created with an attention to detail so precise that any gentleman would be thrilled to invest in a solid jacket or otherwise from Corneliani. The jackets are also a piece of history too — as the famous attached chest piece is actually a signature Corneliani look created by the brand over 10 years back.

But functionality is important too. A sailing piece isn’t just a sailing piece because it’s blue. The clothes don’t just look good, but the move and work with the body, ensuring you can participate in all of these activities and many more in both comfort and style.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Corneliani.

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Oversize was the name of the game at South Korean designer Munsoo Kwon’s Milan Fashion Week runway show. Having seen the brand before in Seoul, BDMOTP was very excited to learn they would be gracing the Milan runways, and the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by individualism through the years, Kwon based his collection on a number of themes. The concept of yuppies —  young urban professionals in the 1980s, then the bobos, those engulfed in material culture and of course, yolos or millennials, people who live in the moment.

The collection was full of layers, stiff, voluminous shirts layered over wide-leg pants and topped with a large, floating trench. Huge striped sweaters with huge necklines and baggy sleeves were layered over floral and striped tank tops and shirts.

Utility jumpsuits and two-piece sets gave off a workman’s vibe, as well as a military feeling, with camo prints and beige and green garments. Pinstripes and denim reflect some of the yuppie trends. Comfortable anoraks and track pants give millennials that in the moment hedonism.

Baseball hats were paired with many of the looks as well. Models walked the runway in mismatched shoes, perhaps contributing towards that individualism theme– each foot is a different part of personality? BDMOTP isn’t quite sure the mismatched shoe trend will take off, but we can definitely see a Brooklyn millennial sporting the oversize trenches next spring, perfect for a cool, relaxed look or even to stay warm and dry on a windy, rainy spring day in 2018.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Munsoo Kwon.

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