Coming at at very poignant time in London, Oliver Spencer created his SS18 collection ‘Love Town,’ inspired by the city of London itself. Tough, proud and full of love, the collection represents the aforementioned values. With all the events that have been recently happening in London, we feel this collection couldn’t have come at a better time. London is resilient, and so are these garments.

“Loving” colors like pinks and blues can be found in the collection as well as plenty of plaid. The outerwear is stylish yet function, with parkas transforming into backpacks as the day warms up.

BDMOTP particularly loved the attention to collars. With different suits and jackets featuring non-traditional preacher-style or colorblocked collars, the unexpected change really gave things a twist. The linen fabrics seem to be a signature for Oliver Spencer, and always seem to be in style. Outfits of plaid tops and shorts were layered under jackets and parkas, perfect for spring days. The clothes were combined with soft leather weekender bags and slip-on shoes for the ultimate casual yet classy vibe. As usual, Oliver Spencer’s model selection, using men of varying ages and races, sat very well with BDMOTP, as we always support the diversification of models.

Besides his regular collection, he also collaborated with artists David Austen to create a line of t-shirts. You can actually by the pieces right  now using the Vero app. The t-shirt say words like ‘LOVE  TOWN’,  ‘WOMEN  AND  MEN’  and  ‘FACE’ and can be purchased here.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Oliver Spencer.

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Nigel Cabourn typically creates several different collections in one each season. In order to celebrate his 50th anniversary as a designer, he created a very special SS18 collection for London Mens Fashion Week.

The first part was called  ‘Whatever Happened to Sean Flynn,’ focusing on the life of war photojournalist Sean Flynn. Both menswear and womenswear were part of the collection, and the key trends are camo (two tone, in faded blue) and hardware details. Cabourn explains that his garments are made to last a lifetime, after all, and chose to create his very own special fabrics for the collection. Although his collections may be inspired by military, the designer himself is a pacifist. This capsule collection is particularly special because Sean Flynn was attempting to get the truth about what was happening during the Vietnam War.

The next part is a small one called ‘Authentic Limited Edition 3’ and features mainly menswear. Seven out of nine pieces in the collection are menwear, plus one unisex and one style for women. These designs are more of a British mod style, with looks like patchwork.

The final part, ‘Lybro’ is an 18-piece collection intermixing funky 1960s pieces with military war-inspired garments. There’s also a few vintage-style pieces in this part of the collection.

Althought BDMOTP isn’t a fan of war, we do love Cabourn’s garments and find that they are quite functional and durable. It’s true — a Nigel Cabourn piece may just last you a lifetime.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Nigel Cabourn.

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BDMOTP has always been a longtime fan of D.GNAK since the very first time we saw the collection walk down the Seoul Fashion runway several years back. With models jamming to Will Smith’s “Men in Black,” we’ve always though the brand does basics the way they should be done. Chic, cool and with a touch of pizzazz, but never too much. In previous seasons, D.GNAK has graduated to showing at the European runways in Milan, and for SS18, they’ve made their debut at London Fashion Week Mens.

Kang Don Jun’s inspiration for this particular collection came down to a single word in Chinese: 因緣. It means “inevitable interaction.” He explains that this means the coming  together of two distinct powers, yin and yuan. In terms of his D. GNAK SS18 collection, this means two things fused to create greatness.

When greatness comes in the form of black, white and beige, BDMOTP is in. Using oversize garments, fabrics like leather and utility detailing like straps and belts, the looks go from basic to anything but. Just because the colors are simple don’t mean the designs are and the tailoring is on point even though many of the garments are meant to be baggy. Pants stop above the ankle and we even see a type of “skort” for men — shorts with an interesting fabric draped over them asymmetrically, like a skirt and shorts put together, effectively, a skort. Color addicts, don’t worry– there was an occasional pop of red and yellow too.

Words by Lori and photos from D.GNAK.

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JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN made quite an entrance at London Fashion Week Mens this season with an oversize, 80s-inspired collection of menswear. Designer Arashi Yanagawa, an ex-professional boxer, named his brand in honor of the legendary boxer JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN. Yanagawa hopes his brand embodies the same traits as the famous boxer like strength, personality and dignity.

Although the brand itself is definitely edgy, the SS18 collection certainly seemed to have those traits. Inspired by post punk and the cold wave scene, the JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN collection featured baggy pants paired with punk-esque tee shirts. Oversize blazers and vests were layered over the looks for both men and women. Although the line featured models of both sexes, most of the looks were decidedly androgynous. Leather, pinstripes and plaid were also spotted on the runway,as well as belts. The old-age favorites of the denim jacket (dig yours of the attic–they are back!) and the leather motorcycle jacket were both present in the collection, two trends that will never fully go out of style.

Pops of pink and red gave the collection a burst of color, and the black and beige simple color scheme was also heavily used within the line. This particular collection is definitely for a younger gentleman, one who wants to express his emotions and musical tastes through his outfits and personal style. In any case, red leather is always fun to wear, so partake in some for SS18!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

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The Harrys of London SS18 collection shown at London Fashion Week Mens had a variety of shoes for a variety of men. A casual gentlemen would love the line of Japanese-cherry blossom inspired pastel sneaker kicks, a relaxed and fun way to add color and pattern into a weekend look. There’s the more formal collection, which includes muted colors and styles of loafers and lace-ups, ideal for a working man who wants to add some style to a suit.

The real addition to the SS18 collection was the Made To Fly capsule collection. All of the shoes in this particular group are metal-free and slip on/off so you can easily get through airport security without having to stop and unlace your shoes. Plus, once you get to your seat on the plane, you can just slip them off to relax. There’s plenty of luggage in the collection too, and here at BDMOTP we love a colorful piece of luggage. We love the sort of Pan Am-color scheme, with baby blues, light green and white suitcases, toiletry bags and briefcases, with, of course, matching shoes.

With a huge rise in the global traveler concept, we always seem to be on the move and we need durable items like shoes and bags that can keep up with us by being practical and comfortable, yet we don’t want to sacrifice style. In fact, a gentleman should never have to sacrifice style for comfort, and thanks to Harrys of London, he won’t have to.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Harrys of London.

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Blood Brother isn’t just a set of besties who press their thumbs together for a life-long friendship. It’s also a contemporary British clothing brand with a solid collection for SS18 which they showed at London Fashion Week Mens. Started by friend duo (we can’t confirm if they indeed are blood brothers themselves, but we’ll make sure to ask next time)  Nicholas Biela and James Waller, the brand is utilitarian and focuses on trendy outerwear.

Besides their cutting edge designs, Blood Brother is right on top of the newest ways to use print-applique as well as creating their own fabrics. What better way to ensure quality then to create it yourself?

The SS18 collection was just as urban and funky as we expected, and we get why the brand has such a cult and celebrity following. The line, entitled, “Login,” was all about straps, belts and buckles in unexpected places. Their famous screen printing was layered onto shirts and sweatshirts with sayings such as”Fly to Mars in Thirty Seconds.” The name Login was represented with screen printed tees saying”upgrade your account.” More kitschy shirts read “Vacation?” and “Save Me.”

With sayings on the top, many of the shirts were paired with oversize pants or cropped, ankle-length trousers. The Blood Brother logo was explicitly displayed across garments in cursive writing.

Brands like Blood Brother are really changing the London fashion scene. With a slow movement towards more underground, casual looks, will brands like this slowly eat away at the more Savile Row type menswear? We think there’s room for both!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Blood Brother.

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Dunhill’s new creative director, Mark Weston has officially taken the rains, and the collection comes as such, presenting both looks for Autumn 2017 and Spring 2018 all in one. Coming from Burberry, BDMOTP was excited to see what turn Weston would take the dunhill brand in.

After carefully checking out the collections, BDMOTP has deduced that dunhill has seemed to stay fairly true to their roots despite new direction. Crisp, dapper suits, impeccably tailored, take the reins of the collection. Perfect for that English gentleman (or wannabe) heading to work, this suits are made to fit and line the body perfectly — none of the oversize, baggy pants and tunics we’ve seen from other designers this week at London Fashion Week Mens.

For after-work and weekends, there’s some overcoats and trenches, and for fall, some down vests and coats, making comfort and warmth a key feature. But style is never given up for the sake of comfort with dunhill — both factors are equally important. Vertical stripes and mohair make solid appearances. Most of the colors fall within the basic realm, but we do see light pops of blue and pink, never straying too far, of course, from the trusty grey, beige, navy and black. The garments seem to be in style, but more importantly, we see a focus on quality materials and good fit — those values have always been important at dunhill. Accessories come in the form of soft leather briefcases and weekender bags.

dunhill calls this a revolution. We simply call it good fashion.

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For their SS18 collection at London Fashion Week Mens, Tourne de Transmission brought us The Lies That Bind. 

The collection primarily consisted of oversize layers. Interestingly enough, the concept was taken from Sigmund Freud’s book Propaganda and it seemed as if the line was more of a rebellion against politics and what’s going on in the world. The brand explains, “there is a layer, a veneer on life, that we are not made to see through.” Perhaps this was the literal inspiration for the many layers you’ll see within the collection, as literal seemed to be the name of the game in this line.

Another literal translation can be found in the outerwear. The designer talks about how there’s so much transparency today withing media and politics and to reflect those “lies,” the collection has many transparent materials layered over others. We see asymmetric vest lengths and very long blazers…an interesting take on future office wear. Colors stuck mainly in the black and grey range, but pops of orange brightened this up for spring. The looks were paired with all-purpose, weatherproof backpacks and various styles of sandals and gym shoes. We even spotted socks and sandals, which, is one of the original fashion faux pas. Fingers crossed that fashion concept won’t be resurfacing in SS18, or pretty much ever, but we’ll make sure you’re the first to know if it does.

Other trends for SS18 include scarves, baggy sleeves and the concept of deconstruction, which we sincerely hope, isn’t also a direct reflection on society today.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Isabel Infantes/PR Wire.

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It seems like it’s all about natural fibers these days, and Phoebe English Man is no different. For SS18, it seems like everyone at London Fashion Week Mens was all about the natural look and feel. Phoebe English Man was right on trend with bright hues of blue among other basic colors in their capsule collection, with garments created from natural and ecologic fabric. This collection was all about wearable, comfortable items with a stylish twist. Of course, as many other brands are now doing, the collection is made entirely in the UK from start to finish.

The collection included comfortable, loose-fitting track pants and button up shirts as well as trench coats and bomber jackets. Long tunics layered over baggy pants and shorts underneath belted jackets proved that SS18 will give us yet another season of layers. External seams lined many of the garments and some even had some patchwork, blocking details.

These oversize garments are all about comfort, and while definitely being trendy, most of these looks aren’t traditionally what men will be wearing to the office anytime soon. Then again, who knows what office wear will look like in the future anyway. With more and more people using co-working spaces and working from home, perhaps jogger bottoms and tunics will soon be the new business suits. In any case, we look forward to trying on some of these intense blue garments, and let’s hope that color keeps trending for SS18. As London Fashion Mens wears on, we’ll soon find out.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Neil Mason from Phoebe English Man.

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This is as good as it gets. London, it’s from the summer of 2016, one secretive photoshoot, with no press or people present. Only a stylist and a photographer. And thus the reason we would keep this masterpiece from you until now the pictures having become available only as of recently on PGS radar. Thus this Alexander McQueen ‘Swinging London’ collection was never presented on the runway, nor in any other form of presentation with only a select few magazines given copies. These photos are all you can see and all you can get.

McQueen: Mad, bad, and dangerous to know

McQueen: Mad, bad, and dangerous to know.

It’s Only Rock ‘n Roll, and I Like It – because this grand collection is as Imperial British as you will ever see. For the style spells the Rolling Stones, when they were still under the magic spell of sitar-hero (no, not guitar hero) Brian Jones in the late sixties, and it spells the Beatles at the time of the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Heart Club Band when the band by 1966 had grown weary of live performance and had moved into the studio. A style which has no shame of old-empire patterns featuring hummingbirds and leopards – or sunflowers – in paisley psychedelic or in embroidered gold.

Thus what is unusual here is that we have a magic photoshoot by a photographer (Julia Hetta) and the work of a stylist (Alister Mackie), who, moving into the studio with the assignment to work on an old Empire collection for Alexander McQueen, have created this collection only for the camera – having grown weary of live performances perhaps.

Faded, jaded Persian or Kashmir carpets as a backdrop – this old glamour look-book is so very British, so brutally imperial, that we could scant imagine Alistair Crowley smoking an opium pipe while trekking on a donkey in the Himalayas, or Rudyard Kipling sipping tea in his favorite lodge down in Mumbai. Here we find the vivid stuff of pipedreams, in the crimson and carmine colors of the gardens of Shalimar, and in full decorated regalia, from post-modern steampunk jewelry, to stiff-upper-lip military braids and broaches, to embroideries fit for forgotten princelings in Kashmir who just love silly frock coats in sharp cuts because it makes them look, well, aye, so very, very British.

Babylon at its best.

For this hardcore rocky British imperial romanticism is made of the fine things and accessories which would have made Lord Byron proud, Byronic being perhaps the one apt adjective that seems to fit the Alexander McQueen SS17 collection called ‘Swinging London’ with one single word. Or as people would say of Byron – mad, bad, and dangerous to know …

Alexander McQueen will be back on the runway in the fall of 2017.

Words by Sandro and photos by Alexander McQueen via GPS Radar.

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