John Lawrence Sullivan was inspired by psychopath killers this season. Wait, what? Before you panic, he went more with a concept of a natural born killer having multiple personalities — hence — many different styles within the collection, which isn’t too traumatizing at all.

You can feel the differences in the collection right off the bat. Some of the garments give off a distinct cowboy vibe, like denim trousers and vests over collared shirts paired with cowboy boots. On the other side of things, 80s boxy, oversize city dweller vibe, like baggy suits.

The different ‘personalities’ within the collection somehow swing together perfectly, fitting fabrics like velvet with leather, and corduroy with wool. BDMOTP particularly loved the jackets, ranging from tight black leather and pinstriped, oversize blazers to long purple trench coats.

We never really thought about what items a psychopath would wear, but leather gloves seem to be fitting, and you’ll see these within the collection. Note, though, that wearing leather gloves does NOT mean you are a pyschopath? Or maybe it does? It in any case, they look cool and will keep your hands warm for winter!

BDMOTP’s favorite look was a wool oversize coat lined with green, paired with leather green pants and a cowboy-inspired plaid green top. We’re not quite sure what type of occasion would inspire such an outfit, but we love it just the same. In fact, BDMOTP loved most of the outerwear in this collection, so if you’re looking for the perfect fall or winter coat that has a unique twist to it, try one from John Lawrence Sullivan.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from John Lawrence Sullivan.

BDMOTP can always count on Oliver Spencer to give us just what we hope to see each season in London: traditional British topped with just enough trend to keep things relevant, but not enough to spoil its distinctly British roots. This is a brand we’ve always loved not just because of its dapper style, but also because of its diversity, using models of all ages, sizes shapes and colors, reminding us that Oliver Spencer’s clothes are for every man.

The collection for AW18 was titled ‘Love Is The Drug,’ and, fittingly enough, was inspired by a day in the glorious city of London. Perhaps the dark grey trousers and jackets bring up thoughts of the Thames or London’s skyline. Touches of burgundy remind us of London’s thriving nightlife scene, and help us remember that love is indeed, the drug.

Fabrics like corduroy and velvet are serving a purpose other than style — making sure that our men are kept warm and comfortable during cold and blustery winter weather. Touches of cream and winter white bring in thoughts of warmth. Other wintery fabrics like sheepskin and fur line coats are are used in collars. Jackets come in various fabrics, lighter for autumn, like leather and BDMOTP especially loved a colorblocked wool coat. We’re a little unsure about the cuffed pants — after all, with the recent winter weather, those ankles need to be covered up, but we can only hope for a 2018 winter warm enough for ankle exposure.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Oliver Spencer.

Tonsure is a relatively new brand, with designer Malte Flagstad launching the brand in 2014 in Copenhagen. With that minimalist Scandinavian touch, Tonsure is has a overcoat or jacket for every man. Whether it’s a puffer, pea coat or plaid jacket, Tonsure’s got you covered for any and every autumn and winter weather situation, whether it be rain, snow, wind or chilly temps.

With garments inspired by 1980s New York, we can’t help but reminisce, with wools, jersey and of course, everyone’s favorite fall fabric, leather. Touches of plaid also walked the runway — after all, it’s not a winter collection without a bit of plaid. Utilitarian backpacks strapped over long jackets and baggy trousers complete the looks, which are practical yet comfortable. The athleisure trend shows no signs of stopping for AW18 as we caught full sweatsuits and windbreakers walking the runway.

Dapper as ever, belted, modern suits covered by fur-lined coats will fit a more classic gentleman, but never losing it’s edgy feel. Touches of patent leather reminded us that athleisure can also be dressy — in fact — these days, athleisure can do pretty much whatever it wants.

Any man would look sharp in Tonsure but especially a city-dweller. Images and city sounds were incorporated into the catwalk, reminding us yet again of a vintage-cool Manhattan. A nostalgic New York gets us every time, and we can’t wait to try out one of Tonsure’s coats. Plus, who doesn’t love a nice pop of orange in the dead of winter?

BDMOTP favorite: a vintage-looking leather and sheepskin bomber jacket in a cool olive green.

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Word by Lori Zaino and photos from Tonsure.

 

BDMOTP couldn’t agree more with Liam Hodges tagline for their AW18 collection — “Everybody’s Free to Feel Good.”

This rings true when it comes to fashion. Men should feel good in what they wear, selecting garments that give them confidence and poise. Liam Hodges aims to tell men that they can still be boys if they want. They don’t have to grow up, suit up and become stuffy if they don’t want to.

And it’s true. It’s easier now than ever to be stylish and fancy man without looking stuffy, as fashions are shifting from Savile Row to streetwear. Long gone are the days you’ll be tossed out of an expensive shop for wearing a track suit or sweatpants. The more relaxed, the better.

Liam Hodges AW18 collection is all about being youthful and fun. With references to 90s TV shows, denim, tracksuits and airbrushed garments take the front line. Silhouettes range from baggy to slim, but you still see elements of the suited male, with plaid from head to toe and the ever-trending long trench coat. Warm puffer jackets and soft fabrics make the line not only trendy but practical for a cold, windy winter, one in which you’ll need to be protected from the elements.

Typically BDMOTP goes for a more structured look, but we are trying to loosen up a bit and enjoy the current moment in fashion, which is all about casual, comfortable activewear. It is what all the cool kids are wearing these days, anyway.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Liam Hodges

Read on to check out BDMOTP’s exclusive interview with Sylvain Fischmann, artistic director of young and up-coming French tailor-made brand RIVES — Tailor made suits Paris.

  1. Are you planning to competing directly with Savile Row and Via Monte Napoleone?

We’re not that into competition. Both Savile Row and Via Napoleone are temples of know-how and tailor-made, but RIVES has a totally different approach, not contradictory but with another vision of tailor made. We have many customers of one or the other who come to see us precisely for something more creative, modern, slick and fashionable.

  1. Is the opening up of shop at Printemps Hommein Paris on the 2nd floor the beginning of a global presence for RIVES?

Opening a big corner in the new version of Printemps de l’Homme is definitely a big step and an exciting challenge for us. When Printemps came to us, we immediately felt the relevance and potential of this project. We think RIVES as a whole brand and we develop it with a reasonable rhythm so as to always master the service, the processes, the quality while being self-financed.

  1. If not in Europe would you chose first rather to open up shop in Shanghai or in New York?

Firstly in New York without hesitation! We have a great attachment and a good knowledge of the city and the market. Added to that, we are completely captivated by its energy, spirit and creativity!

Urban chic from Paris heading for New York

  1. As for quality & innovation in materials and fabrics what would be the RIVESrelationship with French weaver Dormeuil?

Our association with DORMEUIL is not random. Very attached to the traditional values of the couture, tailor-made and more generally to the French know-how in the universe of the fashion and luxury, we found in DORMEUIL the ideal weaver in terms of quality and creativity.

Their approach is focused on the future. From patterns to weaving techniques, through the development of exclusive fabrics those have become famous around the world, DORMEUIL is recognized as much for the quality of its fabrics as for its creativity, research and development. A perfect match.

  1. What’s the secret behind the quick turnaround time and the great pricing on high-end suits, tuxedos, jackets, and coats ordered?

The quality/price ratio is at the heart of our positioning and our thinking since our creation. Unlike ready-to-wear, we don’t have stocks to manage, so we can allow smaller margins than in ready-to-wear. Also, the secret lies in the quality and proximity of our partners’ relationships. We select craft shops, fabric suppliers, staff, and artistic collaborations based on human feelings. Everyone we’re working with share the same passion for authenticity, beauty and fun. As for the quick turnaround, it’s thanks to the expertise of the workshops we work with. Thanks to their professionalism, passion and commitment. This is the advantage of working with traditional workshops and not factories.

  1. As a style would you say ‘chic urbain’ would coverRIVES, or would you prefer ‘contemporary elegance’?

We avoid limiting ourselves to a single style! Positioned on the tailor maid luxury streetwear, RIVES is creating a unique artistic and urban footprint. We have in our DNA these urban, contemporary and chic sides.

chic, chic, very chic

  1. You work with a team of Artistic Director, Designer, Stylist, and maybe a Photographer in your studio – what is the main creative advantage of having the functions separated rather than combined?

While I am co-founder of the brand with our “rock” Antoine Salmon-Peugnet, I’m also its Artistic Director. This status gives me the freedom to explore whatever I want with whoever I want, while keeping it all together. The collections, the points of sales’ design, the website, or the look-books and campaigns are part of the same vision, shared with talented people whom we have the chance to work with:

  • Raphaël Lugassy (photographer),
  • Marc Ange (designer),
  • HER (music band),
  • Jisbar (artist),
  • Aslove (DJ),
  • Keziah Jones (musician),
  • Jeung Hae Him (video artist),
  • Gaëlle Dessauvages (PR and strategy consultant), and
  • Lamine Sow, our flagship’s director, who has been involved the past 2 years in the development strategy and creative process.
  1. Is your collaboration with Pop Artist Jisbar- aka the French Basquiat – in the contrast he provides with a traditional look of French sartorial elegance perhaps not a little bit too risqué for an international cosmopolitan client?

We don’t try to delight. We work with the heart, without asking any questions. We work with talented and human people, and we just want to share this! If we had to collaborate with a controversial artist we would raise the question, but if it’s just a matter of taste, we trust people. This is the artistic approach that interests us, and the opportunity to work and promote these artists is a chance, a pleasure.

RIVES: modern art meets classic tailoring

  1. How does your relationship with The Woolmark Companyaffect the quality of the brand?

We work with the biggest weavers in France, the UK, and Italy, all affiliated to The Woolmark Company. It is natural to get closer to this organization, which represents a real support for a young brand like us, especially for the sourcing of materials allowing the realization of new products, but also for communication: working with such a label gives us credibility and confidence in our project. We met at The Woolmark Company very passionate and supportive people.

  1. If he wore RIVES, who would you say is the Best Dressed Man on the Planet?

No. Idea. What I can tell is ‘who’ gave me the passion for clothes when I was a child: Clint Eastwood in A fistful of dollars, Albator, Sean Connery in Never say never again, and Slash.

No comment

Interview by Sandro and photos from Rives.

 

Had le Corbusier still been alive today he would undoubtedly have worn The Whip by Gentle Monster. For this is celebrity and designer eyewear only. These items are so cool and stylish that we are giving them a second look and review today right before Christmas, so that, like a luxury watch for whose delivery you need to wait a cool 6 months or up to a year, you can still order them right now on time for use on front row during fashion week in June 2018. For Gentle Monster is the ultimate Christmas gift to oneself.

Yet despite having done a previous review of Gentle Monster, we are doing it again because getting one’s hands on such pictures (as with all high design items) is a veritable Tour de Force and an occasion and opportunity not to be missed. Press kits and fashion pictures / shoots come and go, and even celebrity pics do the rounds rather easily, but to be able to find the latest photos of a high design chair, table, lamp, or aye, even a fork or spoon, is usually far more difficult. Reason being is that what such photos bring is not just the introduction of a new style, but of an entire new concept.

So this is why, and for those who are familiar with Hermès or other lifestyle products it will not come as a surprise, that each new pair of designer glasses released and launched in the market becomes an event in and of itself, where a carefully crafted design and concept is introduced with the latest encomium, and with a peculiar name, a different shape, and a new outrageous color to a hungry fashion public always wanting more. For these are not mere products, but items which will come to denote the latest power, privilege and exclusivity.

And so it is with Gentle Monster. Expect to find them in the world’s most famous concept stores (sadly Colette’s in Paris is closing this week), or at a few very select high-end eyewear stores.

Following is the list of names and titles of the full Gentle Monster collection featured below:

Absente, Add Moon, Ami Adam, Black Peter, Deborah, Granny Ring, In Scarlet, Jumping Jack, Last Bow, Lovepunch, Lovesome, Mad Crush, Odd Odd, Second Boss, Sign of Two, Switch Back, The Whip, and Tool.

Words by Sandro and photos from Gentle Monster.

GM-Odd-OddGM-LovepunchGM-Second-BossGM-Tool-GM-Mad-CrushGM-Jumping-JackGM-The-WhipGM-Granny-RingGM-LovesomeGM-DeborahGM-Sign-of-TwoGM-Last-BowGM-Switch-BackGM-Ami-AdamGM-Black-PeterGM-In-ScarletGM-Add-MoonGM-Absente

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here, at last, is the brand that needs no introduction in the world of man’s fashion as they make most of the fine and beautiful fabrics of which many of the bespoke men’s costumes in London, Paris, Milan, and New York are made. This is how executives are dressed and how movie stars go about looking good – in SCABAL (an acronym for Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise). Scabal is at the origin of the creation of the bunch booklets used today by most of the great tailors on the planet.

Founded in 1938, SCABAL is the world’s foremost producer of fabrics, supplying elite tailors and fashion houses across the globe. Each season SCABAL’s team of designers and artisan weavers create collections of the finest fabrics at the company’s English mill (from a recent press release).

So Best Dressed Man is honored today to present to you a small Q&A interview with Campbell Chrichton Dunn, creative director and chief of design at SCABAL:

  • Is it true that the suit should be carrying the man rather than the man wearing the suit?

I think this is true of all clothes, they should complement your personality and make you feel more confident.  A well-cut suit that fits you perfectly will help your posture. This is achieved not only by the suit’s cut itself, but also by any man’s tendency to stand up straight and walk correctly when they are wearing a suit.

  • What is the best occasion and the best way for a man to wear a pochette / pocket square?

I think if the pochette is well chosen and folded well it can fit any occasion. I like to see a fancy printed silk roughly folded worn with a casual jacket, but am equally keen on wearing a navy business suit with a sharply folded, white crisp pocket square.

  • Style-wise, is there too much urban chic out there today and too little classic & traditional elegance for men?

There is now more choice for men’s clothing and the menswear market is more diverse than ever before and this is not a bad thing as it gives more style choices to men. I would say there is an evolution in the classic way of dressing where people are now mixing more formal items like suits with t shirts or more loosely cut styles, suits and jackets are still an important wardrobe item but men are changing the way they wear them.

  • If SCABAL were to open up shop in the States, what city would be the best venue?

I would love to see our first store open in New York City, it’s the fashion capital of the US.

  • Besides personal initials what are some of the main reasons a client would order under-collar or on-the-cuff (shirt) embroidery?

We get a lot if customers adding important dates, wedding days, birthdays etc.  It gives them a unique product and also adds a discovery talking point that they can choose to reveal or not.

  • Is the legend true that it is the softness of the water which is the best kept secret of the old SCABAL mill at Huddersfield?

The reason why the fabric mills in England are located in the county of Yorkshire is due to the terrain of the Pennine Hills. In the 18th century, the hills allowed the water to run down easily to the mills, which were then powered by water. These days, all our fabrics are still finished by being washed in the local waters which definitely gives them an extremely soft touch.

 

  •  How does The Woolmark Company fit into the farm-to-table product philosophy of SCABAL?

Both Scabal and The Woolmark Company share the same values when it comes to wool.  To create the finest quality cloth by using the best Australian Merino wool available, with a focus on traceable, sustainable sourcing. We joined forces with Woolmark to establish the Scabal Noble Wool Club, showcasing a collection of the finest quality ultrafine merino fabrics and have recently worked with them again to launch a short film showcasing a selection of Artisans who use the best raw materials to create products of distinction across tailoring, Michelin star cuisine and customized motorcycles.

  • Is it true that every tailor on Savile Row carries SCABAL bunch books?

Scabal provides a large selection of luxury tailors with our bunch books and that includes many located on Savile Row.

 

  • What kind of sustainable development is practiced at the SCABAL Noble Wool Club?

The Noble Wool Club creates superfine wool by working only with family run Australian Merino wool farms that must meet strict environmental and ethical criteria. At the same time, Scabal works with these farms to preserve traditional methods of wool growing in the face of increasingly low quality international competition.

  • Which one is your personal favorite bunch book?

At the moment my favorite bunch books is ‘Loch Lomond’ with its wool super 140’s and cashmere fabrics with soft elegant designs.

  • Is SCABAL, in fact, what always wears James Bond?

SCABAL has provided fabric to many of the costume designers on James Bond films over the years however, we did not make any of the actual suits.

(only Miss Moneypenny knows if 007 is wearing SCABAL on this mission)

  • Who – wearing SCABAL – would be the best dressed man on the planet?

I think someone like Eddie Redmayne or Ryan Gosling would look smart and elegant in a Scabal suit.

Interview by Sandro and pictures by SCABAL except James Bond which is to be found free of credits and free to reuse without commercial purpose on Google.

 

Wondering what to buy your man? Here’s a list of holiday gifts perfect for a gentleman — whether he’s your son, boyfriend, husband, dad, best friend or co-worker.

For An Accessory: Pocket Square

Ideal for a stocking stuffer, a pocket square offers that added pop of detail or color to take a gentleman’s outfit to the top. We love the Private White V.C. Hexington Pocket Square. (59 GBP)

For A Bag: Backpack

Yes, we know your man is likely out of school by this point, but backpacks are for everyone, especially chic leather ones that can be combined with casual or dressy outfits for travel or everyday use. We love this wool and calfskin one by Canali. Although it’s not cheap, the quality is top-tier. ($1,250)

For A Scent: Winter Cologne

With a million choices out there, it was hard to narrow it down. But BDMOTP feels that Commes des Garcons newest fragrance Concrete was this season’s top scent. The title (and unique bottle, which is actually made of concrete) was inspired by the mean streets of NYC, but the scent is far from mean and is decidedly autumn — think sandalwood, rose and spicy hints of cardamom. (115 GBP)

For An Electronic: Noise-Cancelling Headphones

For the top music experience, Bose QuietComfort 35 may just be the best on the market. With over 20 hours of battery life, bluetooth connection and special acoustic noise-cancelling technology, all outside sounds will fade away and that special man in your life can jam, nonplussed, to his favorite tunes. ($329)

For A ‘Toy’: Scotch-Infused Toothpicks

If it’s something random you’re after, this gift set of toothpicks infused with single-malt scotch are a fun and silly gift you can get the gentleman in your life that loves a good stiff drink. (31 EUR)

For A Subscription: Savvy Gentleman’s Box

Subscription boxes are the newest trend, and there’s plenty out there for men ranging from food to sports to fashion. Our pick is the Gentleman’s Box, aptly named, which offers essentials for the gentleman — anything from accessories to personal hygiene and grooming items and more.  ($12-$25 per month)

For A Globetrotter: Tech Dopp Kit

It’s not uncommon for the traveling man to have a million devices: phone, camera, laptop, tablet, e-reader, headphones, adapters and of course — chargers for all of these items and more. This leather zip-up organizer, the Tech Dopp Kit 2 from This is Ground is a travel ‘bag’ designed with compartments to fit all the electronic accessories and strap down the cords and chargers too. ($229)

For Grooming: The Perfect Shave

The Art of Shaving Kit includes a pre-shave oil, shaving cream, after-shave balm and a small shaving brush — a set specifically designed to crate the optimal shave experience while preventing ingrown hairs, razor burn and cuts. ($29)

Guide and gifts curated by Lori Zaino. Featured image by ProFlowers via Flickr.

And for all those who care, and who waited so long, finally, here it is! The Jersey – Italian look. Unadulterated and brought to a summer week-end drag race on some lost local highway near you in 2018 like a newly polished gem from some old storied past by Roberto Cavalli creator-in-chief of this New Generation since 2000 collection. Slick. Greasy. Shameless. Yay! For this veritably we may well call a form of Backwater Chic that would do really well in either Naples, Marseille, or in New Jersey. Whereas perhaps not as much in cosmopolitan New York, Paris, or in Milan. So that JUST you may remember that Locals Always Rule.

Not to say that Roberto Cavalli is not an accomplished and well-renown designer for his adult line equals high class and chic for a very long time now, but that this splendid off-shoot for the same brand is a most excellent diffusion of some serious retro-chic for young adults going back to the seventies. I mean really, which brand today advertises still with word-slash-concept of rock ‘n roll? That’s so seventies. And rock has long been dead, so, aye, why not leave it up to Just Cavalli to tap into Roberto’s singular and patented class of the heritage of experimental graphics and printing to recreate THAT look – but for young people forty years later.

So yes, especially those exotic printed sweaters and pull-overs and sports jackets are worth their high-end pricing as youth emblems of a once forgotten past because they can bring back a world of yesteryear into the millennial generation. Zebra patterns? Checkers? Aye, glam rock guitars in rouge? Some of his prints are so over the top that Roberto Cavalli in the past has had to defend himself from allegations of cultural mis-appropriation.

We’D also like mention here that it was Roberto Cavalli who is responsible for the first patent on what everyone today now recognizes as the iconic sand-blasted jeans which perfectly fits in the idea of a youth brand image, so yes, hence JUST Cavalli – rock ‘n roll for the digital age – with garishly unique prints, motifs, patterns, and a variety of ugly sunglasses, blasted jeans, street wear sneakers, and some glam square-buckled snake leather belts to boot. This is the grand art of the tasteless. All pay attention.

Thus what makes this collection so cool and refreshing today is that all of it is so far past its selling date so that one may very call the JC SS18 collection a new dawn of the walking dead as long as you keep calling it cruise & resort. Because this high-end pricy menswear from a lost and forgotten decade is made JUST for shameless millennials today: voilà the Return of the City Slickers.

Words by Sandro and images from Just Cavalli by GPS Radar

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Dressed Undressed always throws in something just a little bit interesting on their runways. This season, the Tokyo catwalks were competing alongside Seoul’s, but Dressed Undressed still managed to bring something unique to the table.

One of the main themes of the show was the androgynous vibe. Many of the females marched the runway in masculine looks while some of the men delicately strutted the catwalk in short shorts and silk overlays.

Several of the looks simply crossed the gender line ever-so-slightly as both male and female models both sported almost the exact same long as they walked together on the runway. We loved the white tshirt and grey pants, perfect for a basic female or male look.

There was even an interesting take on a basic black pant for both men and women, the half short, half pant. Not sure how practical that particular garment is for a spring day in the office, but we get the point that Dressed Undressed is trying to make.

Some of the trends spotted in the Dressed Undressed collection were long, waterproof trenches that would be perfect for spring rain layered over tshirts and even leg warmers. BDMOTP especially loved the oversize navy blazer layered over a white tee with a red block stripe — a serious statement.

Whether or not you and your lady friend plan to wear matching outfits, Dressed Undressed makes their point — the gender line is blurred these days, especially when it comes to fashion. And while we may not sport the exact same outfit as our partner, this blurred line just gives us more options when deciding what to wear each day.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Dressed Undressed.

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