This is the second time BDMOTP is covering Etudes and the remarkable thing is that indeed this fashion for men is very thought out, that there is a real concept behind it, just like last time, and that this time around what the SS18 collection is celebrating is, well, that ubiquitous Parisian metro of yours which everybody in the world knows – perhaps only second in fame or infamy to the London Tube or the New York Subway, but hey, who has never heard in this life of the word ‘Metro’ with its direct reference to the word metropolitain of course.

That slimy, grimy, dank giant labyrinth which cuts through Paris like holes in a dirty cheese, infested with rats, shelter to the homeless and gypsies, who knows it not? Its giant shredded posters bending over curved walls, Parisian couples kissing right before the doors slam shut, the sound of shivering and shrieking ghost trains rumbling in from the underground – which colors does it celebrate, besides safety yellow, and workmen’s blue or grey? Well, here in Paris we call it RATP green, named after the organization that runs the system, but for all other purposes you can call it Aqua, after the green component of Aquamarine.

A beautifully studied concept and creation by Etudes for here we find the colors of the underground workmen, the colors of the metro, the pattern of stripes straight from the metro tickets, and the fabric and the looks of utility, of use, of those who work to keep the metro system clean, and safe and sound. Even the sub-officious pre-war costume grey comes back in the palette. We witness dungarees and workwear and workmen’s shoes and, for those who know the metro system of Paris well – the show is henceforth aptly called Vertige by Etudes, which of course means vertigo in English, that feeling to which most tourists as well as Parisian could patently subscribe once you stumble to get off just in time after the doors slam closed behind you after yet another roller coaster ride which left you sitting quite literally on the edge ..

This is, voila, the latest brilliant concept wear yet by Etudes – which needs no introduction.

Words by Sandro and photos from Etudes.

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Sean Suen delivers again on the Paris runways. Or so the headline should read.

Last year for SS17 on his very first visit on the catwalk in Paris we were raving over the Sean Suen collection and we explained about how a traditional and classy European urban chic was newly being defined from Asia, whereas this year the young designer from China is coming back with the same stylish cuts and silky shapes again defying the gravity of modern times – which in the sartorial arts today is often futuristic or chaotic without any sense of history or tradition, but which in addition to Sean’s recognizable signature cuts and shapes today also offers us a beautiful soft pallet of pastel colors, the objective being to make the character of his style besides being classy also ‘tender’ –which is theme of the show.

Mint greens against metallic sky blues, and coppers on cream. In that one sentence basically all is said that you need to know when you peruse the slideshow below but what is remarkable about Sean Suen is the integrity of the concept that he is willing to dare before us. Because watching show after show after show during fashion week one comes to realize easily that not all young designers understand yet what it takes to actually build and create not only a new design or a new style concept which is interesting and pleasing to the eye, but also something which actually shows full coherence and integrity in its conception from start to finish. Not just running signatures in fabrics, materials, make, colors, cuts, patterns, shapes, looks, and accessories, but also to create a new conception which is true to its own identity.

In other words, many especially young designers are perhaps too focused on deconstructing traditional styles rather than on creating styles which will become a new standard of tradition, elegance and class. And for this, Sean Suen, as a young designer, is thankfully a beautiful exception. For here is a young designer who gets it and who needs no more sartorial lessons, because his collections breathe elegance and class in seeming effortless fashion. They even breathe tenderness.

The press release reads that the SS18 collection is supposed to convey to us ‘the perception of calmness and tenderness which provides a feeling of comfort’, and it is this, the perfect description of the maturity of Sean Suen as a young designer, which captures the Paris SS18 show.

Words by Sandro and photos from Sean Suen.

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There is always something seriously brooding and dark but beautiful about the Julius collections and this time was no different. On occasion the locations for the shows are therefore also held in the underground and this one was fittingly organized in an underground parking garage – which interestingly finds itself in one of Paris’ poshest districts near Opera – not as space to park your car, but as a chosen venue for raging and raving and reveling youth – real fire extinguishers on the walls equipped with roaming cameras included. Not to mention that it was 100+F° outside.

Thus it can be easily seen that creator Tatsuro Horikawa over time has developed a veritable cult following for his exuberant but brooding shows, this one cryptically referring to the word ‘apocalypse’ but spelled in reverse, which once again after the last show in winter seems to be referring to some strongly raging and angry dystopic future – or in this case a present. Because the Julius press release goes as far as to make ‘the current distorted state of the United States’ responsible as the source of inspiration for the ‘rage’, ‘dissatisfaction’, and ‘rebellion’ expressed by means of the design in the Julius SS18 collection & show. Which is all rather odd when you are sitting in France watching a show by a Japanese designer.

So yes, Julius is an angry but beautiful show. As is usual. And as usual as well is the large variety of technical Japanese handy and machine work on display on different dark fabrics, because they are the veritable masters of this ancient art. Add to that military patterns with a khaki pallet and some crimson blood red, and indeed you will come to find this brooding dark Asian vibe which needs no translations, and which is above and beyond politics, because it is something directly out of Shogun, from the lost times of medieval Imperial Japan.

Words by Sandro and photos from Julius.

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Sometimes you wonder what the French obsession is with West Coast Americana but then again one would maybe find just as many Californians obsessing over French style. This seems to be a current that goes two ways, but where they meet is usually in some rather abstract of familiar forms & shapes, pastel retro colors, and futuristic design. So, aye, why not go back to the simple minimalism of classic retro beach wear – slippers, sandals, traditional Hawaii shirts, bright & tight T shirts, while donning comfortable beach boxers, if not a dangerously outdated “speedo” in all its former glory – that is if you have the body go with it.

Hey, it’s about style and colors after all and this is the hot summer of 2018, life is a beach, and we are care free, we love surfing, wind, water, and waves, and happy days are here again. Mind you that these items created by Monsieur Julien Pellat – Finet, one of the grand old dons of French fashion, are seriously rich and beautiful when it comes to materials used (cashmere, Japanese fabrics) and only made in France, Italy, and Japan. These are superior beachwear products for men, both through variety of colors available as well as by the perfectly fitting classic LA retro style.

All colors are glorious – think bubblegum pink, fluo-mandarin, or kryptonite green, so that your ‘nonchalance etudiée’ (your studied cool) as the press release would have it, becomes effortless while spotting the latest LPF near the sands of the beach or by the side of the pool. For no party is necessary when you always do things in style. French-Malibu style. By LPF.

Words by Sandro and photos from Julien Pellat – Finet.

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It seems like Glenn Martens is finally coming of age with his grand and eternal Y / Project. After exploring for years all kinds of interesting memes & themes (underground, French imperial chic, emaciated drug chic, etc. you name it), this cult and celebrity designer from Belgium finally somehow perhaps realized that there is some commercial value to be had to employ his formidable talents towards everybody’s classic favorite of today: Urban Chic.

In fact you could say that that Mr Martens is now no longer arriviste (a beginner) but rather arrivé – that he has arrived. For these grand Y / Project collections are now finally going to go full mainstream. In bigger and brighter venues and no longer shown for a select cult following in tumbling steamboats (not kidding) or underground clubs. And this is best for all of us as Mr Martens acknowledges himself while we read the press release, that it is really all about ‘wearability’ and to make things ‘easy and elegant’ – and not just for the show – as if to say, New York, Shanghai, London, Milan — here I come.

As such, always first on the calendar, the Glenn Martens Y/Project makes for a great and appropriate opener of Paris Fashion Week Homme every time, this time miraculously coinciding with what Parisians fondly know of as the once-per-year Fête de la Musique (an across the city music street festival where pick up bands and musicians make musical mayhem and sounds in cafés, bars, restaurants and on the streets), with the hottest and most suffocating day (over 100F°) Paris had seen in over a decade, as well as with the summer solstice.

And thus, thanks to Y / Project SS18, an easy and elegant kick start for fashion season Paris commenced with the perfect BANG – for summer has arrived.

Words by Sandro and photos from Y / Project

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Philipp Plein had two nights of shows and two epic parties this season at Milan Uomo Fashion Week. Actually — if you count Billionaire, his third line, he actually had three shows. As his first show and after party were pretty epic thanks to a collection of luxury cars, an appearance from model Jeremy Meeks and bumper cars, Plein Sport had quite a bit to live up to.

The show started as beautiful girls marched towards poles along the catwalk and began quite the series of pole dancing. Mexican masked street fighters entered in boxing rings and began to fight. BDMOTP actually wasn’t sure where to look, there was so much going on. Both male and female models began to strut their stuff, wearing the newest athleisure looks, bold and beyond, as it usually is with Plein.

Grey was ever present in the collection as tee shirts and shorts layered over Spandex leggings, topped with sporty vests and puffy jackets walked the runway. Monogrammed high-school sports tees and neon embellishments topped the sporty layers. Loud and proud, Plein also incorporated the number 78 on many of his looks. Armbands, leggings with built in knee pads, shin guards duffel bags all accessorized the line, and of course, only the coolest sneakers with words like “faster” written across Velcro straps were present. Surirprise, surprise, model Jeremy Meeks also graced the Plein Sport with his presence too.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Plein.

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Fratelli Rossetti brings some special newness to their collection for SS18 at Milan Fashion Week Mens. Aptly titled “Ocean Weave,” the shoe collection is woven by hand in fishing villages around Italy. Three kinds of weaves are present in the new collection: a large, perforated pattern, a zigzag and the Rossetti signature micro-weave. Additionally, the collection celebrates the 60th anniversary of the brand, which is still owned and run by the Rossetti family.

Each shoe in the collection is made from only the best leather and suede, ensuring you can comfortably wear the shoes without socks in the hot summer. The leather soles are also hand-painted in with the same colors as the rest of the shoe.

This season, the colors were rather unique. The tones, reflecting the title, were created specifically to mimic the colors of the ocean, like shades of the ocean, the sky, the sand and the greenish shrubbery. The presentation was set up specifically to feel the the ocean vibes, with models sitting upon ropes and rocks, Fratelli Rossetti shoes delicately place on their feet.

BDMOTP especially loves the bright greenish yellow loafer with the larger weave. Once of the most originally footwear pieces we’ve spotted for SS18, we can’t help but crave to walk the sandy shores in this stylish shoe.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Fratelli Rossetti.

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Welcome to Bar Tiptoe, where Santoni is serving up fresh espresso, warm croissants and delicious footwear. Yup, you heard right. For SS18, Santoni decided to change things up a bit and host a small soiree featuring coffee, snacks and shoes, all served up on a silver platters. After all, everything seems to look better served to you on a silver platter, right?

Waiters walked around with their trays, you never did know what you might get. Perhaps a small pistachio tart, perhaps a cold glass of fruit infused water…or maybe a pair of deep green dresses shoes with two class side buckles. In fact, this season seemed to be characterized by the deep, rich green and blue leather tones. The brushed grey leather was also a a special look, giving the shoe both depth and texture.

A few selections of white dress shoes were passed around on trays, unique styles, a whole new world away from the typical gym shoe, that buckled and laced. A shiny patent leather loafer glimmered in the sunlight, perfect for that wedding or dressier occasion you can’t see to find the right footwear for. Summer is complete here too, with a snazzy pair of leather flip flops so you can look just as cool at the beach as you do walking around the city, the town or at work. Santoni’s got you for every occasion, it seems.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Santoni.

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Ermanno Scervino showed their SS18 collection at Milan Fashion Week Uomo, entitled “Today I Love You.” This season, Scervino chose to go a more casual, modern route than in past years, creating wearable weekend looks for men. He took inspiration from different time periods and cultures, especially Great Britain.

BDMOTP loved the palm tree sweaters layered over striped tees and casual khaki shorts. In fact, the palm trees were the chosen motif of the collection and the oversize Bermuda shorts, a tribute to the Prince of Wales, was a distinctive feature of the line. Just because the line seemed more relaxed doesn’t mean it wasn’t impeccably tailored, of course, and each thread was perfectly woven into the next on each garment. There was the occasional suit appearance paired with soft leather weekender bags and briefcases, and military-inspired outerwear was layered over plaid button-up shirts and white denim pants.

In case you forgot the title of the collection, belts spelling out “Today I Love You” were found on some of the looks. The athleisure trend is still going strong for SS18, and don’t be surprised to see casual button-up shirts half tucked into relaxed jogging pants, sweats or track pants, lined with a strip or band along the side. Sneakers sans laces also paired along with some of the looks, keeping the collection light, casual and carefree.

BDMOTP favorite: The plaid overcoat layered over a red and white striped sweater.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ermanno Scervino.

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Italian-inspired for an Italian brand, Cifonelli presented their SS18 collection at Milan Fashion Week Uomo. Inspired by the sweet life of 1950s Rome, the collection wass stylish, chic and and modern, despite it’s 50s ideals.  After chatting with the designer, BDMOTP decided this was Cifonelli’s most intricate collection yet, and we can’t wait to sport some of the pieces.

With soft tones of grey and beige plaid (and let’s not forget the traditional black and white) the collection has a very Cary Grant vibe, thanks to the single-breasted jackets with three-button closures, a relaxed yet tailored fit that sits well on any man, despite size or shape.

The Renatto jacket is another BDMOTP favorite, featuring a four-button closure and patch pockets. The Paolo jacket is a bit heavier for a chillier spring day, finished in both tweed and suede. No matter how hot or warm, the straw fedoras and open-collared shirts will keep a gentleman cool and sexy at the same time. Sandals and snazzy dress shoes are reminiscent of the 1950s inspirations, and we can just see one of the models now climbing onto his Vespa for a quick spin around the city. Or wait, was that now, or was it 1955? Could be either!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Cifonelli.

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