Shen Yao Huang, set out in the Fall of 2015 to deliberately mix up the gender norms in the realm of fashion.  Based in Taipei, he believes that the body, male or female, is just a vehicle and he strives to break the boundaries confining menswear.  Clearly he has done just that with this collection.

While in town for Vancouver Fashion Week, someone suggested that I go down to Old Town to take in a meal and get a sense of the city.  Cruising around Old Town, Vancouver, also known as Gastown, you can immediately recognize why it is considered the heartbeat of the city.  Filled with mid to upscale boutiques and a wonderful selection of restaurants, it is easy to get into something fun.

Alton

EX15

The Exteberria SS16 collection was delightfully airy and springish. For a designer who almost always uses black and leather, this was an exciting and fresh style set that BDMOTP loved. Seersucker and linen were primary fabrics used, and baggy suits, nightshirts and other draped looks ruled the runways.

Volume was a trend that was also played with. Three shirtless models of three different skin shades (a statement that did not go unnoticed and was well-needed after many shows with all caucasian models) walked the runway with a bubbly shorts fabric that seemed to also have an air of neoprin in it, voluminous and baggy. The geometric patterns and stripes that appeared in the other catwalks of course were represented lightly in the Exteberria line.

EX14

Many shades of blue, grey and beige were used in the collection, which again were a fresh breath of air from what Exteberria usually interprets into black, brown or navy. Stripes and layers kept things warm in a cool spring. Both women and men walked the runway, but the menswear is where to true talent of Exteberria lays, which is great news for BDMOTP.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Davidelfin SS16 collection PSOAS was named as such when the designer injured himself doing exercise. The Psoas is a muscle that runs from the lumbar spine through to the hip flexers, and the injury made Delfin think about what exercise really means. Effort and perserverance were two of the symbols that came to mind.

So what does all this mean in the form of menswear walking the runway? Sporty, strong looks with vibrant, bold colors and style statements. As usual, we see some funky backpacks from Delfin, as well as the shorts suit. Stripes and colorblocking in sharp primary colors dominated the collection. Each menswear look was paired with sassy gym shoes, in fact, Davidelfin paired with Nike to create a specific collection. This is the second time here at MBFW Madrid geometric prints have made an appearance, as Devota y Lomba was also inspired by the the squarish designs.

An interesting feature on several of the looks was a sort of chest strap, reminiscent of a superhero, making the models seem quite invincible. Belts were also used in several of the looks, belting shirts, suits and pretty much anything else. As usual, Delfin showed an original, entertaining collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The SS16 Devota y Lomba collection had just four pieces of menswear, and they were all pretty fantastic. With a clear and literal geometric theme, the collection was focused on some very simple but detailed trends, like colorblock and stripes. Where this might seem boring, it was actually incredibly well-done and very, very sharp. Colors like a warm brown mixed with white, red and baby blue made the looks stand out, but they also weren’t overpowering or over the top. One of the looks featured a tailored vest paired with shorts and it was  a beautiful, elegant look, probably the fan favorite for us here at BDMOTP.

The wearability of the looks was high. While they weren’t basic by any means, they weren’t extravagant, making them appropriate for a man of any age to sport for a weekend occasion or even a casual Friday.

Besides the four menswear looks, the designer himself also sported one of his original menswear designs, and looked good doing it. This is one of the first times the designer delved into menswear and we sincerely hope he continues to do it.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Ana Locking SS16 collection entitled Foreva was inspired by living each and every day, because life does not last, well, foreva.

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The garments were bold and memorable, in fact, colors such as chalk white and neon orange appeared in many of the looks. A man could live a full week in this collection: there were day looks, night looks, formal looks, and casual looks. Suits with a slightly shorter pant appeared on the runway, and the most valiant of which was a neon orange suit. Only the most confident man could sport neon head-to-toe.

And that is precisely who this collection was made for: an outgoing man, full of confience and swagger, ready to take on the world sporting neon orange! Or sequined pants. Or white lace, a pinkish onesie or white overalls. Again, Foreva was created only for the most courageous John.

BDMOTP favorite: The slightly more subtle mint-green pants with utility vest. Paired with sassy shoes and trendy sunglasses, this look is dapper without seeming over-the-top.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

As usual, Francis Montesinos showed an eclectic collection A Flor De Piel (which is a Spanish saying meaning Sensitivity) of both menswear and womenswear, blending a combined inspiration of both flamenco and Asian flavors for his SS16 looks. The event started with flamenco singer and dancer, shouting and stomping out traditional Spanish rhythms. The music slowly twanged into some traditional Mandarin violin sounds, but the flamenco singer continued to clap along to the beat, creating a strange sort of fusion between the two. The fashions also were a fusion of the two unique cultures.

The first looks very very Boho chic, with models even carrying guitars strapped onto their backs (for flamenco strumming, perhaps?). Later on, we see the Asian vibe appear with some kimono looks and then polka dots inspired by the flamenco side of the collection. Then suprise, the wedding looks came out, and the men sported white lace right along with the ladies. Of course, the man-skirt, a favorite of Montesinos was repeatedly sported throughout the collection as well as a sort of male nightdress and a man onesie, which BDMOTP actually rather liked. All and all, a lot of interesting looks from Montesinos this season. Will men wear them? Who know? But at least they were creative and purposeful.

An exciting part of the collection was that Gene Simmons, beloved singer in KISS, is partnering with Montesinos, and his face was embossed on a T-shirt within the collection. Apparently, Simmons will be opening over 900 spots where you can purchase the famed Simmons shirts. So keep your eyes peeled for spots in the US so you can be first in line for your Gene Simmons tee!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Roberto Verino SS16 collection featured some flashy womenswear and subtle menswear

The Roberto Verino SS16 collection featured some flashy womenswear and subtle menswear

Roberto Verino is always one for a class masculine look. Unlike many of the other more daring designers showing their collections on the Madrid runways, you can count on Verino to provide well-tailored, traditional suits, suitable for James Bond or the likes.

The menswear collection for SS16 could be described as dependable. Not entravagant, not particularly creative, but a go-to suit when you really want to dress to impress. They were memorable not because they were exciting, but because they were simply well-constructed. Compared to the flashy womenswear looks, Verino stayed in classic territory with his masculine fashions this season.

Well-appropriated for an SS16 collection, each of the suits was monocromatic and made from soft, light fabrics such as cotten or linen. The pants were a basic cut — not a trendy wide leg or skinny but a simple straight leg pant with shoes matching the color of the suit. Matching scaves gave each look a springish air. The occasional glance at a sailor horizontal stripe made us yearn for those long summer nights.

The wow look of the collection was not particularly scandalous, but anything differening from the suits seemed flashy, and famous Cuban model Juan Betancourt sporting the look made all the more striking — a navy swimsuit. Swimwear being a first for Verino, the one masculine look did not get us too excited, but hopefully we shall see more of the Verino masculine swimwear line in the future.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Ritz-Bazaar held its opening event at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel in the ritzy Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, DC. Ritz-Bazaar is a luxury rental platform for men, founded by Irina Mologoko.

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Irina is one of the super stylists in the Washington, DC area. I attended along with many local fashion professionals and fashionnistas in the DC scene. The event was covered in the press by Biznow. I wore a light grey knit sweater jacket by Giorgio Armani, combined with a horizontal striped T-shirt with a custom pin-striped pant.

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It has that typical London style rebellious look–we guessed it–but we didn’t know it for sure because we were able to get a sneak view in Paris during PR open days but the guess proved correct, as between all the French designers in the upstairs front room, here was hiding a licentious part of a recent and well-known collection of Nicomede Talavera, who is pretty well known in fashion circles for working with Eastpak and whose pieces breathe London warehouse style industrial cosmopolitan graphics and not baroque continental decorations or avant-guardist French concept and design.

Oliver donning his super clubbing outfit

Oliver donning his super clubbing outfit

This is London SWAG straight from Saint Martins and not French CHIC. And with a name like that – Nicomede Talavera – how can you not be the latest hot property among the up and coming young designers in London or New York or Tokyo. Perfect branding if you don’t have to change your name before turning your design and creative art into a brand. Imagine Posh Spice aka Victoria Beckham doing the same. Oh hold on a minute – she did, didn’t she? But how could she – for her name is not Nicomede Talavera – and thus her brand may go nowhere. Well she will sell because the Beckham collection are quality items and they have her famous name tag on it. But NOT because she has some serious SWAG – like every single piece in the Nicomede Talavera collections. So, dude, never mind the bollocks – here is …

Olivier in Nicomede Talavera ready for some rive-gauche chic

Olivier in Nicomede Talavera ready for some rive-gauche chic

Yes, this is some serious uppity club wear – as a matter of fact the only place in Paris where you could get away with this type of swag is probably in Le Baron – open at midnight and closing at dawn – a Paris rarity, but still a gem. That is IF you get in the door and by the velvet ropes of course. And for that you need serious London SWAG and deep pockets and some good shoes also, or boots perhaps, and those preferably in black – and IF you show up in your Nicomede Talavera you will be fine. They will let you in. You will be recognized that you belong on the scene – like a record machine – like a sex-machine – get on the scene -, but, never mind the bollocks, for here is Nicomede Talavera!

Sucker.

Sucker!

Sucker!

Unless you have access to Parisian PR agency backrooms for private viewing (which you don’t) you will be able to find Nicomede Talavera collections at the following ‘stockists’ (yup it’s exclusive):

  • Machine-A (London)
  • LN-CC (London)
  • Joyce (Hong Kong)
  • H-Lorenzo (LA)
  • Opening Ceremony (LA / NYC / Tokyo)
  • Space Mue (Korea)
Assume the NT position

Assume the NT position

Posted by Sandro, photos by Mous and modeling by Olivier.

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