The Futura collection followed more of the same Dutch design patterns that we had previously seen on the runway; more minimalism, the clean look, simplicity paired with quality – in this case the special prints on the collection being our bonus. Anne Bosman had recently graduated from Saint Martins in London and is now sponsored as one of the young and upcoming Dutch designers by Vodaphone and Fashionlab in Amsterdam to come out with this new menswear collection SS16. The collection makes a lot of use of Japanese denim as well as cotton, and even though some pastel colors were present in the collection we recognized the markedly Dutch penchant again to use that light greyish blue set against some white sneakers or simple loafers – the simple look and the simple colors so as to not go super-noticed on the streets, but casual without asking for too much attention.

Futura is a new menswear label doing the rounds in the Netherlands and this collection breathes a fresh form of street practicality, a concept that was enhanced – of course – by the ever so present and good VJ’s in Amsterdam, this time mixing it up ON the runway. There is a techno, drum & base form of rebelliousness to such collections when you see them on the runway paired with a good VJ. The simplicity and the practicality of the streetwear bounced nicely off of the drum and beat and except front row everyone else was standing on platforms inside an old machine factory hall which gave it the ambiance of a club setting.

Even though this is not club wear (except for some of the T shirts) we should not forget that many of the music events with VJ’s take place outdoors which makes a streetwear look all the more common and appropriate in the context. It will be interesting to see if in the future the Futura collections could make it from the runways of Northern Europe to the open beach discotheques in Europe’s south. Perhaps that this is a bridge and a leap too far (except for those T shirts) at this point in time, but suffice to say that the party is on…

Club Futura, a quality simple street and club wear collection for practical and moving young men.

PHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITSPHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITSPHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITSPHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITSPHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITSPHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITSPHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY WITH CREDITS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted by Sandro and photos from the official Club Futura Press Office.

Doing the fashion week in the Netherlands one expects of course to find a lot of simplicity of design and color, and lots of minimalism as these are both trademarks in many of the good things that the country has to offer, but we were surprised indeed to see these virtues in the MAYNE SS16 collections to be taken to the extreme: It was a little bit like the Ramones – two chords, and three minutes, switching the chords back twice, and a drum finale – hey ho, let’s go, what just happened – it’s a good show. From black to navy and back from navy to black (with some white for good measure) – that’s one short track. Design, stitches, cuts – all being reduced to tidiest of minimalist standard. This is below ready-to-wear. These are almost uniforms, but not quite. These are WORKMAN’s clothes. And that is what explains the collection.

MAYNE – ‘made for makers’ the leaflet reads, but when you read between the lines it becomes clear that this Amsterdam based menswear brand is trying to re-conceive and re-brand traditional working man’s clothes, and indeed, even before reading the show’s notes the impression some of the collection leaves is street and industrial wear from antebellum China at the time of the Boxer Rebellion – monochrome in color, as simple as possible in cut, and as practical as can be in style and design. Indeed, the leaflet reads, it’s the work wear of villagers. Those who rebel against Western imperialists no doubt, or so the story book reads.

The only curves visible in the design are inspired by Yuanyang Rice Terraces, and the leaflet makes a connection with the curves of Dada artist Jean Arp. That’s one giant leap to make inside something which reads like a Ramones tune but if you realize that Dada was a form of art which tongue-in-cheek deliberately tried to subvert traditional forms of art by mixing and misplacing other art forms into different molds, then you will start to get the total picture.

For ours is an age in which there is an overflow of individual and personalized expression. And so it’s quite a rebellious and fashion-radical statement that MAYNE is making here. Because in the same way in that the monotony of Ramones tunes in the seventies was a reaction to too much song and dance in the sixties, here we see a fashion reaction to our hyper personalized and uber-branded and super-styled contemporary selves. Keep things simple and don’t be a fool. And work hard. For the road from the village to the markets is longer than your vain cosmopolitan dreams.

MAYNE, the beginning of the end of hipster-dom. Let the Boxer Rebellions begin.

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Posted by Sandro and photos by A.D.P. Yahampath.

This was a deliciously perverse gothic industrial male fashion show – second show for BDMOTP to witness – and very much in place and venue, for this is Amsterdam where northern gothic dark vibes can mingle with some outstanding VJ’s (if there is anything in which this location outshines other fashion venues around the planet it is in the apt use of some excellent (techno, house, base etc.) VJ’s both on and off the runways).

The Dutch brand Army of Me exists since 2008 and has interesting range of ready-to-wear collections and has grown rather rapidly ever since. One can see why because the look incorporates post-modern industrial wasteland styles with something that amounts up to a heavily serious gothic street-style code. The fact that there was only one or two pieces shown in contrasting whites was the affirmation thereof. As when you witness in the Mediterranean countries so often the colors and the different lights and pastels here in Amsterdam (and undoubtedly also Berlin) you will often witness monochrome dark and depressed shades of black – and maybe grey. But that shouldn’t stop the party. Not with those excellent drum and base VJ’s anyways.

Standout item in the Army of Me dress code, besides the black strap-laced ankle boots and army boots were by far the ominous looking MUMMY SANDALS. Grand concept and great execution. Get ugly black duct tape on a bad end of the black spectrum (scarab, ink, or jet) and twirl it and wrap it randomly around foot and sole so that it looks as if done in a hurry. Voilà, arise ye dark and gothic mummies from the northern graves and go forth. We see the undead armies walking the runways quite often in fashion shows these days – it seems to be a trend. But these sandals are worth a special honorable mention. Made the show.

Army Sandals

One thought is that if Army of Me prêt-a-porter ever goes mainstream around the globe that everybody on the streets will have the swag of extras out of the latest Mad Max movie. This is stuff that really transcends the word ‘cool’ because there is a certain threat-factor in wearing industrial dark street clothing loosely around your waist and your shoulders while spotting industrial shades and a forgotten raven-colored glove on your wrist – without a watch. Because who needs a watch or tell the time when you have some serious style and attitude.

Army of Me – street wear ready to go for a darker and more ominous age.

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Posted by Sandro and photos by A.D.P. Yahampath.

Good opening for Amsterdam Men’s Fashion Week with Aziz Bekkaoui happily flaunting the Dutch colors in an elegant design: Red, white, and (Dutch) blue, with a streak of orange of course because the fate of the old constitutional monarchy the Netherlands has always rested safely in the hands of the House of Orange since the 17th century. So appropriately it was that orange was one of the signatures in this first men’s collection to hit the runways this week.

But the UK national colors were very visible as well and it is remarkable to see how the Dutch red differs in hue from UK red, and how Dutch blue is lighter than UK blue if you see it up close and first hand. UK blue is closer to navy, and UK red is deeper. Compare that to French royal blue, and French red you yet still get another set of colors, which in extensor is of course also true for American red and blue.  But French and American red and blue were not on display, just British and Dutch, and design and the cut was elegant yet sporty.

This summery collection breathed both style and elegance and it was like a breath of fresh sea air coming from the North Sea coast on a beautiful day how the men on the runway were introduced to us as happy sailors perhaps or as wholesome beach goers from a bygone era when beaches were still clean and without too many people and without trash, and all with a sense of style and purpose – and with more than a touch of class. The patterns were very Dutch in its minimalistic contours and the colors very primary which made for an interesting and apt metaphor when one model spotted a visible life-size Mondrian tattoo (composition in red, yellow, and blue) on his right arm (see slide – show) reinforcing the same basic structures as in the design and motifs.

Top this off with a little bit of John Galliano-esque gold – dirty rose and yellow gold – in the form of shoes, gloves, and scarfs – and you will get the whole picture of this striking show.  It’s a subverted touch which highlights the elegance that was there in the first place. Look for disequilibrium and then see if the style still stands and holds up.  If it does, it’s a good show.  And so it was with this opener by Aziz Bekkaoui in Amsterdam.

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Posted by Sandro and photos by A.D.P. Yahampath.

The MF Show Madrid: Tenkey collection was inspired by Spanish painter Pablo Picasso. Throughout the collection, we can feel the geometric shapes and more literally, the paint splatters on the garments, which add a unique touch.

The styles are casual yet sharp. BDMOTP especially loved the sleek blazers paired with taut, tailored shorts. The rope belts and paint-splattered impromtu loafers add some fun detailing to the collection. Light stripes and low-key patterns also make brief appearances during the show.

The Tenkey collection is very Spain, in fact, very Madrid, and I think any man, not just a Spanish one, could easily find wearable and chic garments to sport within the line.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

If we had to choose one brand as a representative of the French style in Spain it would undoubtedly be Cremieux. Founded in 1975 by Daniel Cremieux and now directed by his son, Stephane, it presents for the next season SS16 three lines of work which clearly depict the luxury, coloring and sophistication typical of the brand.

Under the name Splash of Colors, the French label introduces a wide range of colors inspired by the safari, abounding kakis, olive green, camouflage, orange, fuchsia and navy. This line also combines with materials that are united by the title Indigo Life with denim and chambray, a type of bleached cotton, as characters that bring us seaside memories.

Last but not least, the knowledge of the fashion capitals par excellence, Paris-New York-Milan, come together to create a bespoke tailoring that reflects the quality and tradition typical of the brand, but introducing some modern patterns like the light jackets with no lining. Shirts are flooded with bright colors, either plain or with prints, and combined with garments in grey or blue.

Hence, it is a very varied collection full of references to the different shores of the Atlantic ocean but with an air that remind us of  Côte d’Azur, offering a casual style but with an elegant twist.

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Post and photos by Paloma Canseco.

With an original mix of cultures, which varies from the British style to the Zanzibari, the Spanish designer Lucas Balboa presents a collection full of style and elegance, perfect for dressing the modern gentleman.

The philosophy of the Brand is based in the cultural shock that took place when the British forces took part of the colony of Tanzania, which leads to a combination of classic semi slim fit jacket and vest with Arabian inspired accessories, such as light bishts (men’s cloaks) and white agals (traditional hats).

Apart from the straight cut, the designer has decided to include for the first time in his career masculine shorts and Bloomberg trousers, along with the almost-forgotten summer trench and dust-coat, which combine perfectly for cooler environments.

Colors are based in a spectrum typical from the culture and character of the location, like sand, ocher, earth, cobalt, blue and marsala, believed to be the color of the season. These shades are present in light but smart fabrics, such as cotton, linen, terylene, bird’s eye, silk and mohair.

The final touch is added with the British dandy accessories like scarfs, handkerchiefs, pocket watches and leather backpacks and shoes that come with some 1940’s inspiration.

It is, without any doubt, a collection that would set up a before and after in the career of this promising designer, and certainly one of our favorite for next season.

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Post and photos by Paloma Canseco.

70’s was the name of the game at the MFShow Madrid SOLOLiO catwalk for SS16. There collection, entitled Wallpaper actually resembled that antique wallpaper at your grandma’s house, but in a very cool, thrifty way.

Mixing funky, faded prints alongside printed ties and hats and even paired with what looked like vintage bowling shoes all made for a very disco-looking collection. However, the collection still had a modern feel to it, incorporating shorts, fresh jackets and even some polka dots.

Small neck bandanas, also covered in print, completed the collection, as well the occasional Toms-like shoes. It’s back to the basics for the SOLOLiO man in SS16: flared printed pants, printed ties, shirts and may we add some BeeGee’s tunes in as well?

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

“Definitivamente habra que rendirse a la evidencia que todo el mundo esta loco.”-Sacha Guitry.

Roughly, this translates to “We definitely need to surrender to the fact that the entire world is crazy.” And then MFShow Madrid’s X-Adnan gave showed the world just a little something different today. Crazy, I don’t know, or perhaps something we can turn to put on when we realize the world is in fact, completely crazy.

Coral suits, spirited patterns and long silky robes walked the runway. Garments full of life for a dynamic and dazzling SS16. A eagle screen printed on various garments seemed to be a various theme, and it was a neat added detail for a casual vibe. The pattern trend seems to be in full force here with X-Adnan.

Vertical stripes were an interesting addition we don’t, and a welcome one at that, since men out there who may not boost the perfect figure may find vertical stripes becoming.

BDMOTP favorite: Coral suit

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

It was a delightful day of blue at the Mirto show, kicking off the start of Madrid’s small but impactful fashion week for men, MFShowMen. The SS16 collection, #WELOVEBLUE paid homeage to Mirto’s current obsession with the color blue. All shades and patterns of blue were used along summery fabrics like cotton and linen to create a cool collection for day or night for all summer long.

First off, the suits were dead on, and the sharp tailoring mixed with bold blue shades made them uber-trendy. Light beach and daywear was offered in the form of striped linen tops, crisp white shorts, TOMS-style realxed footwear and even the occasional beach tote. Happening trends like the short suit and mixing patterns will thrown into the collection.

Fun touches like a colorblocked belt in shades of blue or a little shoutout to Spanish running of the bulls holiday San Fermin with a red bandana.

WELOVEBLUE encompassed what any man might need truly for day and not just ending in the night, going through the night with a line of sleepwear. Striped robes, cotton light pajamas and comfy boxer shorts ensured that the Mirto man stays stylish all day long and all night long too!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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