Oliver Spencer strikes again at London Collections: Men with his minimalist collection inspired by the Italian island of Capri (in particular, a beautiful Italian home, the Casa Malaparte) and as per usual, hit the nail on the head. His sleek lines and Mediterranean fabrics encompass a relaxed, yet high-end style that any gentleman would want to sport for SS17.

Fabric choices this season included silk, cotton, linen, merino and nylon and color pops come out in red among the grey, navy, cream and honey laid back staple colors. Stripes, plaids and colorblocking made soft appearances on the runway as well. Jackets in all shapes, sizes and colors, including the long trench were spotted as well.

Once outfitted in Oliver Spencer’s designs, a trip to Capri is most certainly in order.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Oliver Spencer.

The AW 16/17 Gio. S collection by designer Gio Sourgiadakis at Athens Xclusive Designers Week was an elegant line of menswear perfect for a gentleman who wants to look sharp in the big city. Heavy winter wool coats and blazers in deep jewel tones walked the runways — think less Santorini and more Milan with this collection. The looks remained modern and casual while still looking dapper thanks to pairing blazers with denim and a wide selection of casual footwear. Patterned ties, knit scarves, patched trousers and the occasional pocket square adorned the elegant looks. Added creativity was put into many of the designs, such as a plaid vest layered under a wool coat with skinny jeans tucked into boots.

BDMOTP favorites: shiny blue suits and patched denim

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos from AXDW Press

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LAT has done a incredible job honoring his Latin American heritage and depicting what a modern day gentleman, brave enough to break social and cultural norms should wear. The collection is basic in color and structural in design. Lautaro has created monochromatic outfits in black, white, grey and navy blue, using noble materials like leather, wool and fur.

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Combining ath-leisure with ancestral history, the collection is both powerful and gentle, which he depicts by mixing textures. Navy blue leather shorts combined with a short and loose shirt shine through the massive, masculine black fur coat, matching perfectly with the moon boots.

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Tailored leather jackets, paired with loose-fitting pinned stripped wool trousers. Every outfit was its own masterpiece, completed with some remarkable urban and gaucho style hats, scarfs and belt chokers.

Posted by Teodora Musovski and press photos by Bernardo Moura.

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Joao Paulo Guedes featured simple, monochromatic black, white and hunter green outfits, embellished with spectacularly imagined prints and patterns found in the microscopic world for his Vancouver Fashion Week Collection this season.

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Everyday garments like tight-fitting trousers, turtlenecks, sweaters and jackets are gorgeously combined and harmonized with a slightly darker color palette. The looks were made fresh and innovative by adding webbed kaleidoscope patterns in teal, grey, and emerald.

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All in all, a quirky collection for a man who wants to feel original.

Posted by Teodora Musovski and press photos by Bernardo Moura.

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If you are the type of gentleman who has drive and determination to be an individual, one who thinks for himself and does everything his own way, the Encima line is for you.  It’s all about looking amazing but not conforming.

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The couple Suzy and Fiaz Lalani are the masterminds behind the brand Encima, and they have been diligently working on their new collection, which is manufactured right here in Vancouver.  Using comfortable fabric knits, terry fabric and cotton, these looks are for a man who strives to look his best simply walking down the street. The collection is also versatile, offering pants, dress shirts, cardigans, tees and jackets,structuring chaos with plain, sensible, elongated garments designed to complement each other.

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It’s all about layering and creating your own fashionable streetwear ensemble with Encima: daring to be different. A typical outfit from Encima’s creative and practical vision would be: classic  trousers and a long sleeve shirt, paired with a mandarin dress shirt, topped off with either a hooded pullover or coat made from moleskin cotton, water repellent material of course. A look perfect for daytime errands on a rainy day.

Posted by Teodora Musovski and press photos by Bernardo Moura.

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The Alex S. Yu catwalk at Vancouver Fashion Week was all about questioning freedom and its capacity and transforming that into apparel. There was a huge emphasis on the difference between the looseness and comfort on one side and constriction and conformity on the other.

We saw lots of wide and loose three-quarter pants, paired with a sweater with amusing written details, turning focus to hypocrisy.

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BDMOTP especially loved the beige trousers paired with different color and pattern sleeves tee, with a white-striped grey jacket, toned beautifully with a touch of contrast, finished with espadrilles (also in beige).

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Model wearing blue and grey layered outfits with exaggerated fullness in the middle, cut off with tight-fitting sea green leggings is a walking demonstration on the designer’s reflection on this important individual and social topic.

Posted by Teodora Musovski and press photos by Bernardo Moura.

On the occasion of  the summer 2016 Capsule Collection launch for Agnès B in London with designer Jerome Pierre.

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Hi Jerome, it’s an honor to be able to do a small Q & A for BDMOTP, we adore the mini collection. You must be damn proud to be working with Agnès and her famous team of course and we love the classy stylish and simple looks of the collection. Here are a few small questions so that our readers can find themselves not only in your clothes but also in your thoughts and concepts of designer and creator.

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BDMOTPColors. We notice your Berlin influences in that Gothic noire in the collection. Is that true? 

JP: It’s funny but I associate Berlin with grey – more than black. I’ve been addicted to black for many years now. I think it has more to do with the all-encompassing quality of this ‘color’. So Berlin isn’t so much an influence in this regard, but rather a place where I most often spot people who perfectly master the art of black – in a very sleek, very chic manner… not so much gothic-y.  In this collection, we used a lot of blue-blacks, which have a very modern quality; but in general, I’m rather fond of true, dark blacks. I’ve been using faded blacks in the past but I find them quite unmanageable when it comes to matching garments together.

BDMOTP: We also notice Nordic minimalism in your design. You find simplicity more elegant? 

JP: I’m a minimalist at heart and have always been fascinated by how Swedish fashion enthusiasts make a basic look so interesting. It’s a work of subtlety. Much of it stems from the cut. And yes, I truly believe that elegance and simplicity very often walk hand in hand. In life as in fashion.

BDMOTP: Yet your collection is super chic but without the retro we so often see these days on the runways. French chic. So very contrasted with the German simplicity. Do we see that correctly?

JP: Simple and chic are rarely at odds. This collection very much expresses my inclination towards a certain formality, a sense of quiet decorum, but worn with the utmost comfort, with serenity. Someone within Agnès’ team deemed the products ‘casual mais très soir’. I loved this depiction. I want to design, wear, and enjoy formal elegance in an easy, warm and welcoming way.

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BDMOTP: Then we notice the signature of ‘l’endroit à l’envers’ à la Hermès in the collection. A touch of class for sure. What is a man’s ultimate interest (as we are a mens’ blog) in having the inside of his wardrobe collection look better than the outside? 

JP: The graphic side of the collection took more and more meaning and importance throughout the development of this capsule. And there was a real message attached to the all-over pattern – a positive one we hoped (see answer below). So it mattered to me that every piece, as much as realistically possible, was infused with this message. I also think the inside of a garment – especially a man’s garment – is the true place where a designer sends a message to the person who might ultimately wear the garment. It is there that the most genuine intention resides, the outside being often somewhat ruled by the many codes applying to menswear.

BDMOTP: As a guiding concept for the collection you chose architectural fluidity in the mode of Zaha Hadid?  We love it.  Where in your design do we look for this fluidity?  How would you define this fluidity in fashion as a conceptual art as opposed to architecture?

JP: An important axis of this capsule was to develop sartorial pieces that could be worn in a new, different manner: Very liberated and to a degree of comfort that would make you forget what you are wearing. Sartorial chic is always very appealing, but more often than not, the suit wears the man, and not the other way around. So we tailored the pieces in a way that kept all the appeal, but without the constraints of a stuffy structure within. Take a look at the first runway look in motion. The model is undeniably wearing a suit, but his movements are completely free and the structure moves around the movements with noticeable fluidity. Fashion is functional to a much more specific degree than architecture. People work their way within and around a building. Garments must and should work their way around people’s movements.

BDMOTP: We notice the unfolding flag or road as a signature for the collection. What precisely is its meaning?  The unfolding road which leads to new opportunities and new moments? It reminds of Walt Whitman’s famous line:

“Afoot and light hearted I take to the open road, the long lone road before me, leading wherever I chose.”

Does this describe your collection?

JP: This is a beautiful quote. To be more specific, the spirit of this print is a bit more Eckhart Tolle than Walt Whitman. The idea was to symbolize the Thought, and invite people to let their thoughts fly away, give their thinking mind a rest, from time to time – much in the idea of meditation. I also like the idea of creating a computerized print, using a random factor – much in the way of what the process of creation really is: Intention within circumstances.

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BDMOTP: What are the ‘noble’ materials you worked with for this collection, and why did you chose them?

JP: I enjoy working with sartorial fabrics and drapery. Besides the suit and pants, I selected a techno-wool for the light ‘bombers jacket’ and the raincoat. It stems for drapery but the wool has been mixed with modern fibers to give it a functional dimension (water-repellant for example).

BDMOTP: Who do you think is the Best Dressed Man on the Planet, or in other words, which man would you say would best be fitted and styled in your Capsule Collection so that he is the best dressed man on the planet?

JP: I truly don’t have a ‘living’ answer for this question right now. The closest I can get to a relevant answer, would be to hint towards Vincent Freeman (the character portrayed by Ethan Hawk in Gattaca (1997)) – for what he embodies within the über-modern set of the movie, much more than what he looks like.

Ethan Hawk as Vincent Freeman in 1997.

Ethan Hawk as Vincent Freeman in 1997.

All pictures by press agent of Agnès B/Jerome Pierre except Gattaca.

Interview by Sandro for BDMOTP

Dom Bagnato takes us back to an era of Italian mafia superstars. Loose-fitting suits paired with fedoras and hats remind us of a early 20th century lower Manhattan look. But don’t worry, there are some modern updates on the suits too. Bagnato plays a bit with color and offers up several suits with the blazer a different color with the trousers, which gives off a more casual, weekend vibe.

Of course, we can’t lose sight of that signature hat, which is perfectly paired with a beige long coat, layered over a patched scarf—the perfect mix between vintage and modern. In fact, it’s great to see that hats will be continuing to trend, as they are here to stay for spring and fall 2016.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

BDMOTP is thrilled to know that oxblood (some call it wine, some call it maroon) will continue to maintain a stylish ground for menswear This purplish-red tone makes for a dapper yet trendy suit and looks good on practically any skintone on any gentleman, which is why we love it so much. Thankfully, Aquila has created quite a few dapper oxblood looks for the coming season, including a suit (with a lighter-toned oxblood shirt, a purplish toned pocket square and even deep red socks—way to kick this one out of the oxblood ballpark Aquila). We also see the color featured in sportswear and scarves.

Plaid is layered upon button-ups and and under scarves and some lovely leather briefcases and totes (again, some more oxblood). Navy comes in along with some white to break out the oxblood and we also enjoyed the variety of shoes, which included some trendy white gym shoes and some leather boots (all with socks, which means Aquila didn’t partake in the Australian no-sock trend).

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

Arthur Galan was definitely a BDMOTP favorite at Melbourne Fashion Week. Models sported a bold collection from a designer which loves to add a little bit of detail to suits and sportswear.
The shearling-lined leather coats an
d bright red boarding school inspired blazers wowed the crowd and the looks, while fashionable and cool, still seemed to maintain a comfortable wearability any gentleman might crave.

Tighter, shorter trousers (again, sans socks—we here at BDMOTP have deemed this to be an Australian trend?) were paired with patterned and edged blazers with fun touches like a red velvet bowtie or a bright red shirt underneath. In fact, red seemed to be the accent color of choice which really gave a whole new life to the collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

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