Someone had to do it. So leave it up to two young Parisian designer brothers from a bespoke family (dad was a London tailor) named ICOSAE to redefine and deconstruct Vermeer’s famous Girl with the Pearl Earring into today’s sensitive, brooding, yet elegant young man: Le Jeune Homme à la Perle – the young man with a pearl earring.

Here ICOSAE presents a dark (lots of underground shades of black fabrics and metallic detail in embroideries and accessories backed up by patchy prints) and rebellious collection, yet according to signature as we have witnessed in a prior show, still elegant and classy despite its penchant for deconstruction and provocation in both cut (oversized coats), shape (cut and turn sleeves), design (monster lapels), fabric (a mix of modern and traditional), and even color (the blood red on black being a primary feature following a ‘family conflict theme’ with the catchphrase that blood runs thicker than water as per the press release).

We had dubbed this particular style ‘punk chic’ last time we wrote an article when ICOSAE was presenting its first show, but this being their second we will have to redefine (or perhaps rather further deconstruct) the description of the style into something more subtle and sensitive as the direct and unavoidable result of every model on the runway boasting that marvelous metallic earpiece with ONE shiny pearl so softly and gently dangling from a small pendulum just below the ear. For that’s no longer punk, but rather swag. And frankly one could only imagine bad boy boogie John Galliano coming up with similar ‘innovation’ before it becomes – if ever – mainstream.

Nevertheless this is what youth is for: To give a distorted twist of sensitivity & sensibility either faux or real to traditional rebellion and a raw, ruckus & raucous approach to life, and then to match the style to go along with it, which now, despite all because of ICOSAE, will be available near you at your local Urban Chic outfitters of uppity menswear for the trendy and the bold in shapes and forms of true elegance and style. Punk Chic gone Pirate Swag – think Boy George, George Michael, and especially Adam Ant of the past, then Captain Jack Sparrow of today, only to culminate in what will be perhaps every second or third millennial gentleman of the future.

For what, if not for ICOSAE, is a real angry young man without a dangling PEARL earring?

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Words by Sandro and photos from ICOSAE.

Some fashion shows are so good that they develop their own cult following. And this is one of them. The way some people were used to follow the Grateful Dead, the Rolling Stones, or Metallica on tour from city to city, there are also people who follow fashion designers from city to city, to see and revere their latest work in awe and adulation. Like rabid football fans, they dress up in the same style as that their heroes latest work would dictate. And like Justin Bieber fans they scream while taking pictures outside the event even if they have no ticket to get into the venue. And so it oddly is as well with Glenn Martens Y/Project show, which year after year, like good old Burgundy wine, only just gets a little darker and better still.

One must then wonder therefore what it is precisely with Belgian fashion designers that makes them special and stand out. For Belgium is a small country yet they have so many well-known designers. Here is just a simple five who are showing this week alone in Paris: Glenn Martens, Walter van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, and of course Raf Simons, who need no introduction to a fashion public. So perhaps that it is not coincidence that Glenn Martens harks from the dark old city of Bruges, that obscure and hidden left over from a dark medieval past which never completely seemed to have reached modernity – not even until today. For was not this city the capital of Old Burgundy, a 14th century empire that stretched all the way from Switzerland to Amsterdam? And which mysteriously disappeared within the deep mist of European history?

Sorry that it needed that long introduction but only then will you perhaps understand a little bit about the origins of the creativity of this fabulous and fascinating show which gets better every year. The press release describes the work as ‘graphic tailoring woven into structural elegance’ as a technical description and almost every time there is an underground scene in the show ambiance but the effects of the materials used, the form, the shapes, the colors, and the cut and the design with Y/Project somehow always become visible upon the faces of models on the runway expressed as a strange but intense form of self-confidence.

And it is for a reason that they seem to breathe and represent the cockiness of princes or pashas. Can you spot Napoleon, Henri the IV, Louis XIV and other notables past in the runway line up in the slideshow below? Not only in the patchwork prints and the design, but in the faces of the actual models? For indeed it is rather remarkable what kind of confidence grand clothes can make for man: The confidence of the Prince – oddly fitting in the age of Donald Trump – which as the theme for this Y/Project show Glenn Martens aptly calls ‘the real Slim Shady’ after the nickname of the rough mean street alter ego of rapper Eminem.

Aha, so THAT is what grand clothing can bring out in a man, and it also explains the cult following of this fabulous and highly creative work of the sartorial arts called Y/Project.

Glenn Martens, the fashion cult hero Slim Shady from Bruges

Glenn Martens, the fashion cult hero Slim Shady from Bruges

And did anyone notice that Glenn Martens is an Eminem lookalike?

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Words by Sandro and photos from Y Project.

 

Something very French about this FIRST runway show (after 23 years of having a well-known brand and boutique in Paris) by Lucien Pellat – Finet, old Don of the French fashion scene, and something très Pop – Culture.  Not only do promotional tie-ins and markings of John Matos (aka the Graffiti artist called ‘CRASH’), as well some latest designs and images of the new installment of the grand animated movie ‘Discpicable Me 3’ feature in the work and art, but we also notice that not without a twist or hint of irony the fashion avant garde – the frontrunners – is exploring some long-since washed-out pop-imagery like for instance skulls, hemp leaves, and aye, even the Popeye-esque ubiquitous image of the lighthouse (yes a lighthouse, that retro pop image par excellence when pop was still innocent).

Interestingly this eclectic strand of DNA made for a novelty patchwork of fashion which rendered good homage to its purported mission statement that the ‘bad taste of today is the good taste of tomorrow’, which perhaps should have more appropriately read that the ‘bad taste of yesterday is like the good taste of today’ but hey, it pretty much matched very well the precise and indicative words in French from the press release which we don’t want to withhold from you: That the style of the LPF collection represents a ‘nonchalance étudiée’ – a form of studied nonchalance (bingo), carried by what can only be described as an L.A. MAN (not an L.A. Woman although the reference bears a point in case) of yesteryear – who perchance likes to go on ‘noctambules en balade à l’orée du jour, sur les longues avenues d’un Los Angeles circa Nineties’ – get this as per the press release – on night-walks at the break of dawn along the long avenues of Los Angeles around the nineties.  Wow!  Hence the slippers and PJ pants. And who will undoubtedly be very lucky not to get shot or arrested while never returning home.

Let’s call the LPF style L.A.:  A study in the REDUX and FLUX of pop-culture; pulp fiction in fashion.

That’s not to say though that this collection does not breathe some serious style or class.  You MUST know therefore that for the LPF collections only the very best and precious materials are being used (alpaca, cashmir, fleece, etc.), that the sourcing is state of the art, and that items are made either in France, Scotland, Italy, or Japan, and that yes that you can even notice the effects thereof by simply looking at the pictures – it shows in the colors and in materials coming out much better and brighter. Add to that that the simplicity of the styles on display and it will make the LPF menswear very universal and timeless, and all of a sudden the pop-culture ‘méli-mèlo’ (mix) is all but forgotten and substituted for some serious French style. Probably precisely WHY Lucien Pellat – Finet (we’ll call him LPF to popularize his name) was honored by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture to be the Opening Act (first show on the fashion calendar in the new year) in a series of French fashion weeks to have kicked off and which has officially commenced today Wednesday January 18, 2017.

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Words by Sandro and photos from Lucien Pellat–Finet.

Canali has decided to go minimalist for AW17/18. This, in turn, doesn’t take away from the sheer elegance of the brand, in fact, the collection seems to become even more dignified. Simply put, there aren’t any extra bells and whistles to distract customers away from the simple truths of Canali: fine fabrics and fine tailoring.

Speaking of fabrics, a focus on cashmere and wool keep the garments soft and worn. Above all, we see long trenches, some belted in a more casual robe style. Keeping up with trend, layers are present, turtlenecks under blazers under trenches. Patterns like plaid and herringbone give off a slight 1960s “Mad Men” feel. BDMOTP loves the rich browns and oxblood colors present in the collection.

For a little bit more on how the lovely Canali garments are constructed, check out their video Rewind.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Canali.

Daks, a BDMOTP favorite, showed an elegant and classical British collection at Milano Fashion Week. Based on the sartorial tailoring of the ever-so-stylish British gentleman, Daks provides some insight on how real men should dress.

This season, modern takes on traditional styles shook things up. Distinguished models strutted the runway to classic jazz tunes in their houndstooth, plaid and herringbone wear.

Of course, we see the elegant prints like plaid, stripes and patterns, but expect them mixed together for AW17/18. Jackets with cutouts and extra high-waisted pants, while still seemingly preppy, gave the looks an edge.

Details are ever present, with leather gloves and briefcases and fitted hats all forming part of the line. Highlights for BDMOTP were the Daks take on the man cape, fitted to let the arms out and turtlenecks under suit jackets and tailored shirts. Look for hints of silver, giving some shine to a collection based upon a blustery, grey London.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Daks.

The Plein empire continues to grow with the launch of activewear line Plein Sport at Milano Fashion Week. The activewear collection is a first for the designer, who explained that he wanted to fill a void in the market where there seemed to be no real luxury activewear.

The runway launched off with some serious athletes performing gymnastics and jumps in an obstacle course. After models walked the catwalk, they followed up by “training” in a gym filled with treadmills, a boxing ring, even a breakdance area. Paris Hilton sat front row and as usual, the show was the event of the season.

A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 14:  Atmosphere on the runway ahead of the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Vincenzo Lombardo/Getty Images for Plein Sport)A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s clear that Plein Sport will appeal to all types of athletes, fitness buffs and most likely the general public at large. In a world where activewear is slowly but surely becoming leisure and casualwear (you can thank the USA for that—where would we be without women wearing yoga pants when running errands?), the line is genius. Engineered so that it’s comfortable and anti-sweat, the breathable and flexible garments are practical for the gym, the court and the ring. And the grocery store. Perhaps also the gas station. You get the gist.

Featuring hoodies, leggings, puffy vests and jackets, mesh shorts and more, the collection is typical Plein style, bedazzled with gold and silver shiny fabrics and vibrant, reflective colors.

The line is ideal for the modern man and woman, with several unisex garments and practical details like sleeve pockets for cell phones and trendy, urban sneakers.

A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.A model walks the runway at the Plein Sport show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18 on January 14, 2017 in Milan, Italy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Plein Sport.

BDMOTP has always been a fan of Eleventy, thanks to their all encompassing style. Eleventy has a way of making men feel as if they are included, as if they, too, can be a part of fashion. Eleventy, simply put, makes things easy for a man to become a gentleman.

For AW17/18, Eleventy presents a very wearable collection separated into a few different sections. First, a casual office, with garments like cotton pants and longer wool/cashmere jackets. Next, an urban style section with puffy jackets, baggy pants and sneakers. Then, leisure wear with comfy shirts and cardigans. Finally, a Platinum capsule collection which includes more bespoke garments. There’s even a home collection, which includes candles and rugs.

It’s worth noting that Eleventy creates all their collections in Italy and is a sustainable brand, which we at BDMOTP love.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Eleventy.

Damir Doma played with layers and volume this season and Milano Fashion Week. Layered tunics and baggy pants marched the runway and there was an emphasis on tying and knotting, in hopes of distorting what may be a more traditional design aesthetic.

Both female and male models walked the runway, but the looks weren’t unisex. The menswear really embraced volume for AW17/18. Pops of orange brigtened the muted greens, blacks and the occasional white.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Damir Doma.

The brightness and lightness of the Silvio Fiorello collection gives life to even the darkest and most depressing winter days. For AW17/18, color was definitely not sacrificed, and that’s precisely what BDMOTP loves about it.

When exploring the collection of silk ties, pocket squares and more, I was alerted to the fact that purple is actually one of the best-selling colors at Fiorello, which leads me to the believe that the Fiorello customer is one of class. Jolly, self-assured, bold and ready to make a statement, the Fiorello man wears a purple silk tie to the office and inadvertently brings just a little bit of brightness into his own day and the day of those around him.

The AW17/18 collection offers bright colors and artfully designed pattersn as well as motifs on pocket squares an ties, elaborating on a 80’s trend that is now coming back into style.

For those looking for something a bit more day-to-day, the flannel ties, not as loud, but just as lovely, are better for a customer hoping to make a subtler statement.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Fiorello.

Santoni footwear is always a BDMOTP favorite. The brand constantly finds ways to innovate while still maintaining the quality and elegance that is so very Santoni.

This season we see change in the form of shadow and color. An interesting take on a preppy oxford, Santoni plays with the coloring of the shoe, one foot lighter along the toe and the other light in the back towards the heel, giving consumers a chance to experience something a little different.

With something for everyone, the brand features loafers, oxfords, boots and even sneakers in the AW17/18 collection. You can go conservative with black and brown or go bold with deep red, greens and blues. For those who struggle with cold feet, or would simply love the extra softness, the fur-lined oxfords are whimsical yet practicala creative juxtaposition that can appeal to many gentlemen.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Santoni.

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