The Dressed Undressed SS17 collection, designed by Takeshi Kitazawa/Emiko Sato was all about layers and hovered between sleek looks and extensive volume. Skinny suits covered with voluminous trenches and raincoats formed an integral part of the collection — BDMOTP especially adored the long, khaki colored coat/cape lined with sheepskin. An interesting take on the poncho, this coat has “loose” arms giving it a cape-esque appeal. However, the long length stays within the Aw16/17 trend of long coats, we which love and are thrilled to see are still waking the runways for spring. The collection also featured a very unique style of layering: double button-ups. Literally one button-up dress shirt was placed over another, perhaps a way to stay warm on a cool spring day.

Another interesting trend walking this catwalk was the one-sleeve look: a plaid button-up or long trench with just one sleeve. A promising solution to that funky spring weather when you just aren’t sure to select long sleeves or no sleeves! Probably not one BDMOTP will venture into trying anytime soon, but Dressed Undressed does get an A for effort and creativity.
























Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week.

It seems that Tokyo’s bi-annual fashion week has a new sponsor instead of the traditional Mercedes-Benz. This year, Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo is showcasing Japan’s most talented designers. While there isn’t nearly as much menswear as womenswear, SS17 did have a few key designers when it comes to the gentlemen.

Jun Hashimoto considers his brand to be classical Japanese fashion. But what exactly is that? The SS17 collection has its roots in the beautiful Italian tailoring but then offers a more traditional Japanese aesthetic, which consists of a comfortable, practical garments, designed with both appearance and functionality in mind.

The Jun Hashimoto SS17 presentation didn’t consist of live models or a catwalk, instead, a photo presentation of all the coming looks as designs. Indeed, the looks were sharp and practical, for a man looking to be clean cut and ready to go at any moment. We appreciated the slight artistic touch of the photo presentation as well, using silhouettes and editing to create some unique angles.












Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from the Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week Official Website.

The weather is beginning to change and the wind is blowing a slight chill into the air. It’s time for fall, so what to wear? Here are some of the top trends for this fall and winter season, and they’re actually wearable trends that any man should be able to easily participate in.

1. The Bomber Jacket

Matthew Miller shows a bomber style jacket layered over a longer coat for a modern look.

Matthew Miller shows a bomber style jacket layered over a longer coat for a modern look. Photo courtesy of Matthew Miller press.

This jacket, which is lightweight and perfect for fall temps, has been popular for many years, in fact, since the 1940’s. This season, it’s back with a serious vengeance and every man should be able to dig one out of his closet or pickup a new one.

This guy, spotted in Paris looks sleek in his two-tone bomber jacket. Photo courtesy of Darrel Hunter.

This guy, spotted in Paris looks sleek in his two-tone bomber jacket. Photo courtesy of Darrel Hunter.

These jackets have been spotted all over the AW16/17 runways as well as in the streets. Combine it with some chic trousers or layer it (see number 2) over a longer shirt or coat for a cool silhouette.

2. Layers, layers, layers

E. Tautz shows some lightweight layers in his AW16/17 collection. Photos from E. Tautz press.

E. Tautz shows some lightweight layers in his AW16/17 collection. Photos from E. Tautz press.

This may be one of the easiest fall trends to partake in, simply because there a very few rules and anything goes. Just take some garments and pile them on to stay warm. See, fashion is easy!

Loving these layers spotted in Milan, not to mention the copper jacket! Photo courtesy of Darrel Hunter.

Loving these layers spotted in Milan, not to mention the copper jacket! Photo courtesy of Darrel Hunter.

Obviously you want to pick thing that aren’t too bulky so you aren’t ballooned out, but this trend is both practical and fashionable, as you can peel off layers if you become warm.

3. Copper

We are swooning over this rich copper coat spotted in London. Photo courtesy of Darrel Hunter.

We are swooning over this rich copper coat spotted in London. Photo courtesy of Darrel Hunter.

This is a super cool color that immediately reminds us of autumn. It’s been spotted on virtually every runway from London to New York to Tokyo, so if you plan to invest in a new item this fall, a rich copper jacket or sweater is the ideal item.

These colorblocked pops of copper are super stylish. Photo courtesy of Charles Wosselin.

These colorblocked pops of copper are super stylish. Photo courtesy of Charles Wosselin.

Ana Locking presented a collection with just a few menswear looks for SS17 entitled The Thinker. Locking describes the collection as being “chaotic and reconstructed” and it really seems as the garments are just that. Belted layers and torn trousers give the line a street feel, but things still seem tailored, perhaps thanks to the structured blazers, chunky oxfords and round sunglasses.

BDMOTP loved the way Locking incorporated clashing military chic into the collection, even in the form of very short shorts. Locking inspires men to be cool, calm and edgy, so if that’s your vibe, consider picking up a piece from The Thinker collection.
























Posted by Lori Zaino and images from Getty.

Montesinos is always a costumed whirlwind, and the SS17 collection was just that. Inspired by Montesinos’ homeland, Valencia, Spain, he created a collection of mostly womenswear but a select few menswear pieces: bright, patterned and bold.

Baby blue for SS17.

Baby blue for SS17.

A few of the men walked the runway arm-in-arm with a female model, sporting unique, loud vests and even skirts.

Patterns and vests.

Patterns and vests.

It seems that as the seasons go on, men in skirts is still happening (unsure if this is to our joy or dismay–but hey–if you feel confident, go for it).

A young lad in a skirt.

A young lad in a skirt.

Once piece BDMOTP can definitely get behind is the vertical striped suit with patterned tee underneath, of course, with a “clashing” pocket square.

We do love this striped number.

We do love this striped number.

As always, Montesinos designs a unique bride & groom set, and this seasons was Alice in Wonderland-esque, with a top hat, gold pants and shagadellic top coat patterns.

Quite the groom.

Quite the groom.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Getty Images.

It is indeed a fitting a closure for Paris Fashion Week this summer to end with the latest Agnès b. collection pour homme as she is the grand old dame herself who has been setting the standard, if not the tone, for many things, and not in the least in fashion for men in France and beyond. Thus it behooves us to carefully translate from the French the few words she wrote to tell of her inspiration for the collection SS17, as they are meaningful:

So, the Parisien …

Cynical, gentle, mischievous, crazy, with a critical mind and on principal – revolutionary. Perhaps he always has a certain sober elegance …, but always makes charm of mistakes or flaws, and puts a personal touch on the way to wear clothes, so simple, that by the cut and the color alone they become beautiful.  – Agnès b.

Voilà!  This SS17 collection in all its variety is as good and as beautiful as ever, so not much more remains to be said as we are closing this Paris Fashion Week Homme for the summer of 2016, a long and crazy summer so far, revolutionary indeed, but leaving you in the good hands of Agnès b. and of course in style and with elegance – a certain sober elegance …

As a small bonus in the pictures below, please know that Agnès often works with guest designers who are asked to partake in the runway shows. We are sure that you can spot the one cowboy on the runway which is the work of designer Adrien Beau.
























Posted by Sandro and photos by Agnès b press.

Sean Suen has been doing runway shows since 2012 Beijing SS13, but this was the very first one in Paris. The place Vendôme was a good choice because we can squarely state here that this was the best menswear show of the week. Despite all the hype, swag, and name that some of the other brands make in Paris across the board, this one delivered. And it proves why young designers from the East today are second to none. Aye, they are probably the best! We should remember humbly that China has a tradition and a history that goes back 5000 years, and that therefore sartorial knowledge and know-how has been there ever since maybe only to explode today – in the age of 24 hours 7/7 fashion.

Just check your fashion radar. And put Sean Suen in your next calendar for this show was loaded, solid, and swinging. In our last cover of him we said his work to have a style of chic-urbain de grande classe – a high class urban chic. But that was when we only had a chance to admire his work hanging from the racks in a showroom. So yes grand class, but just put the man on the runway for a minute and what you will witness is an upcoming star designer. He is going to go really far and we could imagine a famous brand asking Sean Suen to become their lead and anchor. He is THAT good. But he may as well stay with himself.

Elegance mixes flawlessly with the latest materials and fabrics. Style and class seems to come effortlessly. Sean Suen sets a mighty high standards for today for what defines chic for men in contemporary society. And it is not as if it is not edgy as in like Givenchy, which always produces the same. No, on the contrary the Sean Suen SS17 collection breathes freshness, power, and something which we will call the contempt of beauty. For that’s what beauty does. It re-designs in its brutal favor all other things which are not as beautiful to second row, second rate, and second hand.

Sean Suen, welcome to Paris! Vous êtes bienvenue.
























Posted by Sandro and photos from Sean Suen press.

Despite the non-conformist and rebellious inspirations of Christian Dada aka Masanori Morikawa from Japan, this show manages – as it always seems to do – some refreshing element of class or even elegance. Thus it is often interesting to the neutral fashion observer to see that no matter how hard some designers try to deliver a coup of social critique or a dose serious deconstruction, that time and again their creations end up being, well – just swag – stylish and beautiful thereat. And that is really a compliment to the sartorial arts despite that not all designers can pull this off.

But Christian Dada can.

As last time in winter there was a BDSM theme woven into the signature of the CD show, this time around the inspiration came from, and I quote the press release:

Peace, Yoko Ono, John Lennon, Love, Life, Paradox, Uniform, Jimi, Dark-side, Poetic, Earthquake, Gun, Police, The Smiths, Insignia, Decadent, Deconstruction, Construction, Imperfect, Perfect.

The artist himself calls his style ‘decadent yet sophisticated’ and he may very well have a point, but here at BDMOTP what we are interested in if we can discover any serious class beneath his dark-side, or any serious elegance beneath his deconstructive sophistication. And we think we can.

For the Palais de Tokyo is a classy venue in Paris for a show. And the Japanese silk weaving in the fabrics is marvelous. So are the different dyes of black in which the Japanese are masters. And some of the jackets and coats are fit for gentlemen. So as anti-conformist or decadent as this collection may purport to be, it still has some serious and undeniable constructive sophistication or class indeed. It’s even got swag! And this must be the talent of the designer to create which in the end wins it from his drive to destroy.

























Posted by Sandro and photos from Christian Dada press.

Can we say that Barnabé Hardy did it again? Well, to be fair, he does it every time and it is the reason that Carven remains perhaps the classiest Urban Chic menswear brand on the block for some time now. Somehow our favorite Carven designer always knows how to capture the latest trend of light and comfortable elegance in his creations, whether that be winter or summer, spring or fall, retro or new – while keeping perfectly intact the brand’s signature and DNA. It’s quite an accomplishment really to do this year in year out season in season out because it may very well never be easy to find new inspiration, whether that be for us in words when we write about it and try to describe his creations, or whether that be for Carven to think of the next shape, color, form, pattern, and design for the latest collection.

So for SS17 we witness that typical French easy going traveler’s look, très decontracté – very relaxed, very casual, and very carefree. For the sporty man who likes to go in style and class and who leaves the city but who likes to travel light for a weekend trip to some other city – perhaps from Paris to Naples, or Barcelona or Cannes. Light pastel colors that make you blend in with the clouds in the sky, an easy belt pack on your waist rather than a heavy backpack, no socks of course, and those luxurious items only to be found at Carven made especially for you – trekking Jesus sandals, deck shoes, or summer fringed boots. It’s hybrid footwear and heavily personalized – or so it feels.

BDMOTP was at the presentation on the rue de Turenne in Paris which is really the center for men’s tailoring and sales in the city. The show was well attended and was staged – as is so often the case in an old industrial loft setting – with bouncy rubber curtains running from the floor to the ceiling so that the models were not just able to walk, but also able to lightly dance and move and bounce against the curtain – like playful birds – so as to emphasize the lightness of the summer inspirations of the SS17 collection. New menswear was worn loosely and not tightly. An atmosphere easy-going, relaxed, and very casual – the stuff of summer dreams. Yet chic and elegance will always pervades at Carven, no matter the moment.

Carven SS17, casual traveler chic for the summer of …
























Posted by Sandro and photos from Carven press.

This is starkly beautiful menswear made by Essius based in Zurich. It does have that picture perfect Swiss clockwork feel to it but that doesn’t make it any less exciting. On the contrary the SS17 collection by Essius is quite amazing and anyone going to wear this – and be able to afford it – will be noticed, provided you are not trying to get discretely into a private vehicle picking you up at the airport when disembarking a private Embraer jet while you hide behind your sunglasses. For this is timeless celebrity stuff, and somehow I picture Brian Ferry modeling it.

Of course Essius has private tailors who fly the world over to come measure you up à mésure so that ordering these sartorial gems is facilitated to the luxury convenience of an actual point-of-sale à la maison. For this is luxury & travelers chic so nothing less will do, and the brand appeal easily transcends the words urban or cosmopolitan, so that perhaps we can call it galaxy-chic – the galaxy being milk white, and white being one of the primary colors in the collection. And made in Italy of course from the finest fabrics and materials, the best knitting and stitching possible.

The double cashmere jacket we were able to admire at the presentation at the just recently renovated Paris Ritz Hotel (where Coco Chanel used to stay) deserves an honorable mention.

But we will reserve the highest marks for the colors and the style of the collection. Yes, it is classic but not traditional. No, in fact what we witnessed was an avant-garde timeless form of elegant chic set in the shapes, forms, and colors of the grand old Swiss-French master architect Le Corbusier (he after whom a peculiar style of sunglasses is named). Primary colors. Canary yellow. Cobalt blue. Milk white. Scarab black. Triangles. Squares. Only the red was missing. But a virtual sartorial golden dawn of structural simplicity delightfully set in the finest fabrics, linen, and cloth.

Menswear for millionaires. And ready-to-wear.























Posted by Sandro and photos from Essius press.

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