Leave it to the Italians.  All wannabe soi-disant rapper and hip-hop ‘gangsters’ can make my day!  Notwithstanding your ‘bling’, your cheap mass-marketed clothing lines guilded & steeped in your own artist’s names, your self-styled perfumes, aye, even the faux violence of your well-branded bad-boy life-style, you are still missing one essential ingredient and quality:  That Most Wanted Style at the time of your inevitable arrest!

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Indeed there is never a bad time to make a good lasting impression which will cement your legacy as a bad boy forever:  So why not chose Cantarelli, and their pretty darn awesome ‘Stile Ricercato’, a most wanted style for winter and autumn based upon the mug-shot images of gangsters of times of yore.  Yes for this mucho-retro style we are talking about the twenties and the thirties because it is most probable that indeed we have to go this far back before first finding some real bad boys who cared as much about how they dressed and how they looked, as that they valued their ‘careers’.

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What strikes immediately when confronted with this fascinating collection of menswear in person is not only the old patterns and the old stitch, but very much so the old COLORS of faded browns, jaded greys, and gruesome blues, as if the art of coloring fabrics yet still needed to be invented at the time.  On such old retro tweeds indeed a small white pochette makes an incredible difference and any accessory you may care to carry or wear is going to stand out to the point that it WILL be noticed:  Your tweed casket has a different pattern – it will be noticed; you leave your tie untied – it will be noticed; you have something in your pocket or in your hand – it will be noticed, because your suit is meant and designed not to make you stand out, but to blend and fade you back into the background, so that what comes out is your personal style, your movement, and the character of your face.

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Large long lost-square patterns and some darker shades of rust-red or ancient orange blend in nicely into the surprisingly light fabrics and wearing these precious items you will not only imagine yourself on the scene of old forgotten B-movies for which the script was never really finished or published, but you will also feel like the man of action of old, because these suits and jackets and ties and other items, they are not stiff, not ‘modern’, not meant to satisfy the taste of a man who buys a suit for business, but for a man who is on the move.

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Thus perhaps Cantarelli, a designer family from Arezzo in Italy, may have arrived at their new ‘stile ricercato’ most-wanted collection, and word has it that it was Mr. Cantarelli himself who came up with the idea and that most sales world-wide have been coming from the USA.  Working the Pitti Uomo in Florence at the beginning of January we were impressed immediately by the originality of this rather unique concept & design because the collection harks back to a time when style could not yet be purchased in a store – let alone shopped for online on your handheld device or pad; it is simply NOT ready-to-wear, because this is still from a time when clothes were worn to dress yourself, modestly, carefully, and properly.  Wear-to-Care, and NOT Read-to-Wear.  Just look at the following picture, and enjoy:

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We looked it up and the Italian ‘ricercato’ has several meanings besides the English word ‘wanted’:  Indeed it also means ‘precious’, ‘in great demand’, ‘refined’, and finally ‘most sought-after’ – as  in ‘most wanted’ of course, a very apt name for a very special style, for a very special collection, for which the woman leaning on your arm is called Molly, and for which your hat falls halfway across your face, and your cigarette halfway from your mouth, while you take a sip of your drink.  But then the doors to the bar swing open, and you are inadvertently arrested even though you did nothing; but you are ready…

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Our last three favorite brands this time around at Pitti Uomo

Munsoo Kwon

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We were thrilled to stumble upon the Munsoo Kwon collection, as we’d previously met him in Seoul during Seoul Fashion Week and saw his runway show there. His collection was youthful and fresh, and we had a nice time chatting with Munsoo himself about the collections. BDMOTP favorite: striped blazer.

Rumisu

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Rumisu is a Turkish brand of hand crafted scarves. The silk scarves and pocket squares are all created with unique and special patterns on them. The neat thing is, all the scarves come with a short story about the pattern on the scarf. How creative! The brand was created by two sisters, Pinar Yegin and Denis Regin Ikisiik, and the scarves have a timeless and elegant style to them.

CB

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CB, which stands for Cecilia Bringheli, is a brand of handmade Italian shoes and boots. Any pattern you see can be placed on any style of shoe that they make. The brand is relatively new, appearing in 2010 and the shoes can work for any occasion. All footwear is made in a small factory in Northern Italy, and they say each pair takes a minimum of three hours to create, as they are crafted by skilled artisans.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

BDMOTP presents three more brands we think are perfect for a Best Dressed Man.

Camplin

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Camplin is a company that makes coats, and historically founder Mr. Camplin supplied coats to the Royal Navy. In fact, it was his idea to use the peacoat as part of the Petty Officers uniform. In this sense, many believe Mr. Camplin to be the “inventor” of the peacoat. And Camplin is still making pea coats, however they’ve branched out a little in their color, shape, and detailing since the basic navy peacoat. But don’t worry, you can still get what might be considered a a Royal Navy Peacoat “Original”. BDMOTP favorite: the bright yellow peacoat.

Bob

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Bob is an Italian brand that is known for their whimsical take on cardigans and sweaters. Quirky patterns and soft fabrics are what makes this brand special. Bob loves to create a solid color sweater with elbow pads or pockets in a different color or special pattern. BDMOTP favorites: patterned cardigans, more specifically the hot air balloon pattern and bicycle pattern and the socks!

T.Michael

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T.Michael is a sophisticated Norweigan brand that focuses on coats, suits and shoes. We are also very excited because they will be doing a collaboration with Japanese designer, Miharaysuhiro in the near future. The Norwegian Rain coats, also designed by T.Michael, are warm and stylish, and the shoes are sleek and fabulous. We are very intrigued by T.Michael, who seems to have his own special presence within his designs.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Finally, we arrived in Florence, after anxiously awaiting one of Europe’s biggest fashion fairs, Pitti Uomo. This year we had a bit less than compared to past years, as it overlapped with London Collections Men on one end, and Milan Fashion Week at the other end, but that didn’t stop our team from covering some major ground in a very short amount of time. We were extremely impressed with what we saw, and I start with some highlights here.

Angelo Nardelli

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We stumbled upon this vendor after seeing some of their cool and intriguing merchandising-a jacket folded with chains around it. We became more and more intrigued as we couldn’t open up the jacket due to it being in “confinement.” As we chatted with the rep and looked around, it was clear these jackets and items were made of high quality fabrics like wool and more. BDMOTP favorites: brown jacket with green lining, blue wool jacket “chained” around itself.

Richard Friedman

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Jackets and vests seemed to the be name of the game today at Pitti as we also found some gorgeous window pane, houndstooth and plaid jackets and vests. Richard Feldman is actually more well known as a shirt vendor, but we think these jackets are so amazing they give his shirts some major competition. BDMOTP favorites: plaid jackets and vests.

Pashmere

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Obviously the name hints to the fact that this brand presents luxurious cashmere fabrics, which they do. But their designs are also unique with a twist. Bright colors and fun patterns give this soft fabric a bit of life. BDMOTP favorite: playing cards cashmere cardigan.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Once again BDMOTP is back in Florence for world famous fashion fair Pitti Uomo. After a crazy 3 days in London, we landed in Florence just in time to rush to the Emiliano Rinaldi runway show. The show was located in the beautiful Palazzo Gondi, which is a gorgeous antique palace located just near the Duomo. We meandered around as we sipped champagne and took it all in… stunning venue and stylish people! We finally entered into a small room which a painted ceiling and gold fixtures and got ready to take in the show.

The Grand Chalet runway show was Italian, in and out. The designs were original and fun, and were inspired by Rinaldi’s links to Tuscany, his friends and family, and the Italian culture. The tailoring was perfect and this combined with interesting cuts and lines made the clothes traditional yet innovative. The collection even showed sleepwear for men and also some Japanese style silk fabric suits, very original!

This name, Emiliano Rinaldi, is one to keep an eye on in 2014…we are looking forward to see what comes next from this up and coming new designer!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova

Fashion Rio AW 2014 is Rio de Janeiero’s Fashion Week, and is surprisingly done on a much smaller scale than Sao Paulo’s week. There was very little menswear shown this season, but I managed to grasp a little sunshine in a dark place via R.Groove, who’s bright and bold menswear looks owned the runway.

R.Groove, which stands for the designers name, Rique Gonçalves, used to be a guitarist, until he changed his mind and went the design route in 2007. That’s when the R. Groove collection was born. For AW14, he stayed away from dark and wintery looks and instead brought color and life into the collection. Inspired by surf and jazz, the collection seems happy and spontaneous, and would brighten up any dreary wintery day. The bright oranges and blues give the clothes that extra lift.

BDMOTP favorites: Bright orange coat, colorblocked blue and grey coat with collar, and colorblocked leather vest

R. Groove - Fashion RIo Inverno 2013r-groove-1r-groove-6Rio de Janeiro, Brasil - 09/11/2013 - Desfile de R. Groove durante o Fashion Rio  - Inverno 2014. Foto : Ze Takahashi/ FOTOSITER. Groove - Fashion RIo Inverno 2013R. Groove - Fashion RIo Inverno 2013Rio de Janeiro, Brasil - 09/11/2013 - Desfile de R. Groove durante o Fashion Rio  - Inverno 2014. Foto : Ze Takahashi/ FOTOSITE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted by Lori Zaino

Images from TNT and AgNews

 

Another standout designer which was part of the Bangkok Couture Thailand Fashion Showcase was The Urban Apparel.

The Urban Apparel, as the title suggests, is a urban collection inspired by the urban city of Bangkok.  Most of the styles in the collection are androgynous (which we are seeing so much more these days when it comes to fashion).  The collection is inquisitive and interesting, and some looks even had their faces covered, probably to stress the point that many of these looks can be worn by men or women.  The Urban Apparel collection is actually 70-80% androgynous, or unisex.

When we sat to to talk with the two designers from The Urban Apparel, they really helped us to understand their inspiration for the collection.  Bangkok is a big, messy, urban city and the line reflects the chaos of it all.  They explained that Bangkok, especially, is a growing city, and as a city dweller, you have goals, and they are constantly shifting and moving quickly.  The collection grew out of this.

Although at The Urban Apparel they favor neutrals, like black and white, they also  like to have some special detailing so it doesn´t become boring. They aim to  interact different materials and fabrics to keep things interesting. The zippers, in concrete, are based on the many wires Bangkok has hanging around the city.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

Here at MQ Vienna Fashion Week, the BDMOTP team was able to catch the ¨Bangkok Couture Thailand Fashion Showcase¨.  The showcase featured four designers, two of which showed menswear: Paul B. and The Urban Apparel.  It was fantastic to see Paul B.,  as he was the only collection we´ve seen thus far here at MQ Vienna Fashion Week that featured ONLY menswear.

Prints were the name of the game for Paul B.  Shorts, pants, shirts, and more were covered in delightful, whimsical designs, like dots, foxes and squirrels.  You definitely have to have a little edge to your personality to wear these designs, as they are quirky and fun.   Paul B. also had a few more tailored looks like suits.  The collection ¨Preppy Funky¨reflected that moment on a sunny spring day when the gardens are about to bloon and the daylight stays longer.

When we were able to sit down and chat with the designers of Paul B., conveniently named Paul and B., they explained to us that they love using foxes, more specifically Mr. Fox as a symbol for their brand.  In this particular collection, Mrs. Fox was also used.

Paul and B.  actually have four different fashion lines back in Thailand: Paul B., Pattric Boyle, which is a bit more glam, a t-shirt brand called Paul B. Garçon, and a teenage brand aimed at youngsters 16-20 called Foxpixel.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

 

If you are in the market for new and lesser known brands with wonderful offerings, then Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy is a must do.  It is an expansive event spread across several buildings, and there is something for every type taste.  It is also one of the best places on the planet….yes that’s right, to take in men’s street style.  BDMOTP candidates at every turn.  My team and I attended over three days, braved the heat, and covered a lot of territory.

I encountered many brands that I had not heard of, several that in my opinion are outstanding.  Among my favorites are:

Tabacchi

Great line of casual coordinated pieces.

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Viacomte A

Beautifully tailored garments, with a preppy French flavor.  Ralph Lauren-esque.

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Brodska

Frankfurt based designer and manufacturer of pocket squares, scarves, and neck ties.

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Pasotti

For the man who has everything, they offer a line of beautiful umbrellas, walking sticks and shoe horns.

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Check out our Pitti Uomo Day 1 and Pitti Uomo Day 2 Recaps for more info!

 

Day 2 of Pitti Uomo in Florence was just as hot and just as rewarding as Day 1.  We were able to see some more great brands and some of our favorites were Angelo Galasso, Broska, and Pasotti.  Each brand is extremely different and features something unique and special.  Angelo Galasso features clothes, shoes and accessories, Broska carries scarves and pocket squares, and Pasotti designs umbrellas, shoe horns and canes.

Angelo Galasso

Angelo Galasso is a high end, luxury brand that has shops in New York, Moscow, Milan and London.  This season the collection has a safari theme and includes some very sharp shoes and jackets, among other things.  Galasso is also known for a special touch/detail on his shirts.  On the sleeve, he allows for a small open space in order to have your watch face peek through. No more having to push up your sleeve to see the time!  Genius!

BDMOTP Favorites: Blue Shoes

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Broska

Broska is a German brand, based in Frankfurt, that creates original pocket squares and scarves.  Some of the pocket squares have up to 4 different patterns per square.

BDMOTP favorite: Grey, blue and brown patterned scarf

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 Pasotti

Pasotti is an Italian brand, based near Milan, which offers umbrellas, canes and shoe horns with unique patterns and of course, funky handles decorated with silver, studs, skeletons and more.  These items would be great as gifts, especially for those difficult to shop for men!

BDMOTP favorite: The Umbrellas

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Posted By: Lori Zaino

 

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