Dondup’s AW17/18 collection was a colorful one, almost spring-ish, with its pops of yellow, bright red and blue. The collection is for a casual man, featuring a variety of jackets (trench, puffy), blazers and sweaters. Many of the looks were paired with a basic white pant, proving that winter white is most definitely still a trend.

Dondup is all about making dressy look casual. Suits are paired with gym shoes and long plaid trenches layered over sweats– a new way to combine all types of looks.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Dondup.

Damir Doma’s SS17 collection featured garments for both men and women, in a not quite androgynous context but some may beg to differ. The voluminous, layered looks came in the form of distinct color patterns, first white, then hunter green, then yellow and of course, black. We can’t help but notice the coats layered on top of almost every look: trench coats, bomber-style jackets, blazers in all shapes and sizes. It’s clear that Doma finds SS17 to be the season of the jacket, and well, we love it.

A fire-ish orange and black pattern was layered on some of the clothes and gives off an exciting energy, it simply must represent something exciting. Buckles, belts, and sewn-on ruffles and pockets also added detail to the garments, adding even more fire to this collection. The yellow and green pinstripe take on suits was special, in fact, a modern, urban take on elegance.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Damir Doma.

 

This season, DAKS wowed us with a glorious collection filled with rich burgundy and hunter green, complete with plaids and checks, layers and jackets. No, not an Autumn Winter collection, but a Spring one. Although all signs point to more wintery colors, styles and trends, this collection still gives off that fun summer vibe. The line was inspired by India: Madras, to be more specific, and there’s even a plaid pattern in the collection named after the city. Perhaps that’s also where the jewel tones come from too. However, the DAKS SS17 collection, as all DAKS collections do, seems to maintain it’s distinct British gentleman flair despite it’s Madras influence.

The distinctive necklines for this season range from a very low V-neck summer style to a turtleneck appropriate for a cool spring London morning. Luxurious leather belts wrapped twice round plus some funky necklaces/Buddhist prayer beads give the otherwise elegant collection an edge.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from DAKS.

This season’s Dirk Bikkembergs SS17 show was a special one. Taking place at the Piscina Caimi, the show started off with a bit of sporty action from the Canottieri Milano water polo team. The models strutted past wearing, of course, some swimwear, but also plenty of outfits for many occasion, all with an athletic influence.

We have to hand it to Bikkembergs, because making a suit look sporty in a cool way isn’t easy, but the garments really are appropriate for a variety of occasions. In addition to suits and casual wear, models also sported speedos and more casual sportswear.

Colorblocking trends were apparent, as well as funky shoes of all sorts to match each outfit. Bags came in many forms, but we especially loved the leather backpacks and surprisingly–a bag shaped like a giant soccer ball. Some of the more elegant looks used bold prints and leather and added a vibrant touch to the whole collection. Besides the adult models, some children even walked the runway with matching outfits to launch Dirk Bikkembergs kidswear.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Dirk Bikkembergs.

BDMOTP always enjoys the Vivienne Westwood show–and not just for the creative fashions walking the catwalk. We admire Ms. Westwood for always taking an angle on something, and this season she chose to use her show to support for Julian Assange (remember WikiLeaks?). In fact, the runway show was conveniently placed as Assange starts on his fifth year at the Ecuador’s London Embassy. Westwood’s dedication to social issues comes with a lot of gusto, and in this case she is fighting for Assange and for his release on his unlawful confinement.

We can't help but respect Ms. Westwood's commitment to social justice.

We can’t help but respect Ms. Westwood’s commitment to social justice.

How does this translate to fashion, one might ask? Inspiration can be found in the form of many things, and for this particular collection, it starts off with unisex designs, something Westwood hasn’t really done in her past menswear shows, using both male and female models. As usual, we see asymmetric lines and plenty of layering from Westwood. Her suits for men are wide and voluminous, ruched and bunched to create space.

Vertical pinstripes are a common theme on not-so-typical suits…perhaps representing the evil businessman? We also spot the IoU label on many of her garments, Intellectuals Unite, perhaps a call to order for those who want and need social change.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Vivienne Westwood.

 

Larusmiani’s SS17 collection was inspired by the magical oasis of Palm Springs, California. Cool, calm and collected, this small but elegant collection was absolutely stunning. With lightweight spring materials, the collection jumps between more formal and casual wear, giving options for a versatile man who might have to pop into the office for a meeting but later grab his yacht and sail away. Unlined jackets and relaxed knits give the collection an airy feel in general, in fact, the line just feels like a breath of fresh, seaside air.

The colors remind of us of Palm Springs, with sea and sky blue as well as a khaki beige for the desert vibes. Larusmiani is a master at making elegant and modern looks in an understated way, and any gentleman, California-based or not, could definitely find a piece (or many) in this collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Larusmiami.

The Santoni SS17 collection at Milan Uomo held a very unique showing where shoes will hidden in giant gold lifesize box, and you had to peek through some holes to see them. The concept of the collection was clear: kitschy, different, innovative and fun!

We see lace ups, loafers and slips ons, fringe and tweed. Of course, signature sneakers were also part of the collection. Even though the collection was playful, don’t think for a minute that took away from Santoni’s hand-sewn elegance and perfect craftsmanship. Colors for spring were earthy with tones of blue and red, using materials like crocodile and calfskin.

Santoni always pushes the envelope in just the right ways, making for playful, sophisticated footwear any gentleman would love.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Santoni.

The Canali collections always emit elegance, and the SS17 collection definitely did so, but in a more casual, summery way. With more relaxed fits and silhouettes, the brand takes luxury into a more chill, comfortable style. Of course, their signature suits are present, along with plenty of fabulous jackets of varying lengths and materials.  Topping the BDMOTP hot list, the leather jackets look soft and stylish and come in some fantastic colors, such as a baby blue and rich brown. Some long trenches ensure that Canali isn’t dropping the ball on that trend. As per usual, Canali shows the freshest  looks but without going overboard–they still retain their Italian elegance.

We can’t help but swoon over the crisp burnt sienna looks that give the entire collection a warm colorful kick. Canali also pushes the envelope by showing no ties this season–instead–scarves delicately tied around the neck.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Canali.

This season at Orciani BDMOTP fell in love with the stunning leather backpacks in beautiful, bold spring colors like baby blue. The SS17 collection also features many bags in a new hammered leather style, of course, only the most luxurious leather used. Whereas the collection isn’t “officially” unisex, we think that women would enjoy it just as much as men, though please, gentleman, don’t get the wrong idea, these gorgeous leather goods are not feminine in the least. There are a few leather jackets in the collection too.

We especially enjoyed the return of the belts, as Orciani continues strong in SS17 with their famous No-Buckle belt, which allows you to pass through airport security without removing it, a dream come true for frequent travelers. Regular belts are also designed with grommets/studs and geometric woven patterns intricately sewn into the soft leather. As usual, we can’t wait to get our hands on this collection!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Orciani.

BDMOTP loves anything art deco, so we immediately fell in love with Bertoni’s art deco-inspired collection of bags for SS17. Molded in with the concept of a dreamer, the collection is not only cool but functional, offering silhouettes such as weekender bags, totes, backpacks and practical items like iPAD or e-book cases.

 

Each bag has an inspiring painted image of a plane or aircraft on the front. Baiting the travel-obsessed with bags and suitcases featuring planes? We are honestly surprised no one’s though of such a wonderful idea before!

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In any case, we can’t wait to get our hands on the new three-fabric backpack or one of the plane clutches. Not to be left out, the Bertoni’s signature collection of trunks (a tribute to the brand’s heritage which dates back to 1939) offers the allure of the rich and famous, now of course, with plane images to boot!

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The Junli SS17 collection at Milan Uomo was a pleasant surprise for BDMOTP. The collection was inspired by the idea of destruction and raw parts, giving form to trends like many layers and sharp cuts. Long vests and jackets are ever-present within the line. But don’t think this collection is a mess: the tailoring and craftsmanship is impeccable. Colorblocking is another concept used within the collection, taking to a whole other level of contemporary. We look forward to seeing what Junli can bring to the table in future seasons.

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