Corneliani showed a strong SS18 collection at Milan Uomo this season, with five different capsule collections allowing clients to discover the perfect jacket and outfits based on their preferred hobby. Each of the five collections was dedicated to a specific activity: biking on motorcycles, riding horses, driving vintage cars, sailing and golfing. Based on the activity, a small line was created with clothes inspired by it.

Perfectly complimenting the male shape, the jackets were the main point of each collection. Biking was leather and lambskin, perfect for a windy day cruising on the motorbike. Riding featured jersey knit and driving was created from wool, extra tear-resistant. Sailing was blue, and of course wind and waterproof, and golfing had a preppy vibe, made from knit. Zips, buttons and insets made each jacket perfectly compliment the hobby. From material to color, these capsule collections were created with an attention to detail so precise that any gentleman would be thrilled to invest in a solid jacket or otherwise from Corneliani. The jackets are also a piece of history too — as the famous attached chest piece is actually a signature Corneliani look created by the brand over 10 years back.

But functionality is important too. A sailing piece isn’t just a sailing piece because it’s blue. The clothes don’t just look good, but the move and work with the body, ensuring you can participate in all of these activities and many more in both comfort and style.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Corneliani.

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Oversize was the name of the game at South Korean designer Munsoo Kwon’s Milan Fashion Week runway show. Having seen the brand before in Seoul, BDMOTP was very excited to learn they would be gracing the Milan runways, and the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by individualism through the years, Kwon based his collection on a number of themes. The concept of yuppies —  young urban professionals in the 1980s, then the bobos, those engulfed in material culture and of course, yolos or millennials, people who live in the moment.

The collection was full of layers, stiff, voluminous shirts layered over wide-leg pants and topped with a large, floating trench. Huge striped sweaters with huge necklines and baggy sleeves were layered over floral and striped tank tops and shirts.

Utility jumpsuits and two-piece sets gave off a workman’s vibe, as well as a military feeling, with camo prints and beige and green garments. Pinstripes and denim reflect some of the yuppie trends. Comfortable anoraks and track pants give millennials that in the moment hedonism.

Baseball hats were paired with many of the looks as well. Models walked the runway in mismatched shoes, perhaps contributing towards that individualism theme– each foot is a different part of personality? BDMOTP isn’t quite sure the mismatched shoe trend will take off, but we can definitely see a Brooklyn millennial sporting the oversize trenches next spring, perfect for a cool, relaxed look or even to stay warm and dry on a windy, rainy spring day in 2018.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Munsoo Kwon.

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One of the reasons BDMOTP is always a fan of Canali is because their items are always perfect tailored but are also functional. Sometimes it’s hard to get that exactly right, and a gentleman hoping to be comfortable may sacrifice that for the sake of style — but not with Canali.

In fact, the SS18 collection, entitled ‘The Impeccable Traveler’ is exactly that. A traveling gentleman is in even more in need of items that look good but wear well during long journeys and layovers. Globetrotters can now rejoice, though, because Impeccabile 2.0, the name of the fabric created exclusively for Canali is a reality for SS18. The fabric has been made from extra-fine wool, twisted extensively to create the perfect pull and natural stretch while still being light and breathable. Oh and did which mention the fabric is also waterproof and creaseless? Perhaps it should actually be called invincible! Plus, interesting details make it even better: shirts with pockets to rest your hands or slip that boarding pass into are especially useful when traveling.

Of course, style is never given up, despite the durability of the Canali garments. The lines and sleek shape of the suits and blazers are cut to perfection, and the basic hues of blues, browns, greys and blacks are brightened with pops of orange and sunshine yellow. In fact, the trench is sunshine yellow is a piece BDMOTP can’t wait to get their hands on. Cool backpacks and chic yet comfortable shoes are accessories a best dressed traveler will definitely want to get his hands on.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Canali.

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The Italian brand MSGM only started back in 2009 by designer Massimo Giorgetti, but has hit the fashion scene hard during the past few years, slowly growing in cult popularity. For SS18, colors, stripes and monogrammed garments walked the runway. Starting off with black and white boxy layers, shorts paired with tees and covered by a windbreaker and scarf, the color soon came forward. Patterns like stripes and camoflauge were a huge trend and many models sported baseball hats and long scarves with MSGM written over them. The Italian brand MSGM only started back in 2009 by designer Massimo Giorgetti, but has hit the fashion scene hard during the past few years, slowly growing in cult popularity. For SS18, colors, stripes and monogrammed garments walked the runway. Starting off with black and white boxy layers, shorts paired with tees and covered by a windbreaker and scarf, the color soon came forward. Patterns like stripes and camoflauge were a huge trend and many models sported baseball hats and long scarves with MSGM written over them.

Plaid is also a trend that is going to carry on through fall into SS18. Mixing patterns, plaid paired with camo paired with stripes walked the runway. Of course, if this seems like just a bit too much, you can simply invest a a key piece or two filled with pattern and color and pair it with a more subdued solid. Plaid is also a trend that is going to carry on through fall into SS18. Mixing patterns, plaid paired with camo paired with stripes walked the runway. Of course, if this seems like just a bit too much, you can simply invest a a key piece or two filled with pattern and color and pair it with a more subdued solid.

MSGM seems to be youthful and fun, participating in the athleisure-style trend without going overboard. Elements of late 80s and early 90s grunge can be found among the collection, but nothing too literal, simply a reference here and there taking us into more modern silhouettes. These clothes are clearly for a man who perhaps doesn’t need to go into the office daily and can wear more relaxed and casual looks. And for a man looking to make a bold, exciting statement, try on the WOW t-shirt and see what the day brings to you. MSGM seems to be youthful and fun, participating in the athleisure-style trend without going overboard. Elements of late 80s and early 90s grunge can be found among the collection, but nothing too literal, simply a reference here and there taking us into more modern silhouettes. These clothes are clearly for a man who perhaps doesn’t need to go into the office daily and can wear more relaxed and casual looks. And for a man looking to make a bold, exciting statement, try on the WOW t-shirt and see what the day brings to you.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from the MSGM press office. Words by Lori Zaino and photos from the MSGM press office.

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For SS18, Dirk Bikkembergs pulled away from their traditionally sporty look and went all in with strong, simple looks created from basic lines. Masculine and intense, what you see is what you get with the SS18 Bikkembergs collection. Colors started off with black, white, navy and pops of a cool seafoam green. Beige plaid was also present, and it seems plaid will be a spring trend, not just a winter one, going forward. We’re definitely onboard for year-long plaid. For SS18, Dirk Bikkembergs pulled away from their traditionally sporty look and went all in with strong, simple looks created from basic lines. Masculine and intense, what you see is what you get with the SS18 Bikkembergs collection.

Colors started off with black, white, navy and pops of a cool seafoam green. Beige plaid was also present, and it seems plaid will be a spring trend, not just a winter one, going forward. We’re definitely onboard for year-long plaid.

One of BDMOTP’s favorite looks is the simple concept of the leather panels on long, straight trenches and shorter, boxy jackets. These two small strips of leather, although minimal, took the simple design and make it intricate and sophisticated. Elements of colorblocking fit right in with the boxy, straight silhouettes of the pants, jackets and vests. Models marched the runways looking fierce in lace-up combat-style boots and modern, sleek sneakers. Large, functional pocked lined the long trench coats and lines and cuffs detailed the trousers. One of BDMOTP’s favorite looks is the simple concept of the leather panels on long, straight trenches and shorter, boxy jackets. These two small strips of leather, although minimal, took the simple design and make it intricate and sophisticated. Elements of colorblocking fit right in with the boxy, straight silhouettes of the pants, jackets and vests. Models marched the runways looking fierce in lace-up combat-style boots and modern, sleek sneakers. Large, functional pocked lined the long trench coats and lines and cuffs detailed the trousers.

Although the line had plenty of spring wear, like long jackets, boots and pants, there were layers involved and a few pairs of shorts. That being said, the collection seemed to be more spring heavy than summer heavy. If you want to go to the beach — you should probably look elsewhere. But for a masculine spring filled with intensity and strength, Bikkembergs is where it’s at. Plus, if you can pull of the seafoam green, you should go for it and make a real fashionable statement. Although the line had plenty of spring wear, like long jackets, boots and pants, there were layers involved and a few pairs of shorts. That being said, the collection seemed to be more spring heavy than summer heavy. If you want to go to the beach — you should probably look elsewhere. But for a masculine spring filled with intensity and strength, Bikkembergs is where it’s at. Plus, if you can pull of the seafoam green, you should go for it and make a real fashionable statement.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Dirk Bikkembergs.

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Philipp Plein is known for having some of the most eventful catwalks in Milan. The SS18 runway was no different. The stage was set: a recreation of “Grease” with motorcycle and fancy cars like Ferraris, Lamborghinis and McLarens doing all sorts of flaming stunts. The show ended with monster trucks, artists performing songs from Grease and of course, an appearance from Jeremy Meeks, the current “it” model, who is also nicknamed Hot Mugshot Guy, Hot Convict and Prison Bae.

It may be hard to focus on the fashion with so much going on, but it went right along with the theme. Obviously leather was a key point, with leather jackets and t-shirts with flames. Denim was also a huge trend, and luxury crocodile skin jackets paired a little glamour with the punk. Shoulder patches featuring tigers and panthers were decidedly placed on sweaters and most of the looks were paired with studded shoes of some kind, either sneakers or dressier shoes. Skulls were another theme — and you can find them patched, bedazzled and sewn onto many of the garments.

The Plein experience is never complete without the after party. This season, besides being able to check out the fancy cars (heavily guarded by security, of course) you could spin a around on a different set of wheels. There was actually a carnival ride of bumper cars placed in the venue so fashion show and after party attendees could morph back to their childhood and have a little carnival fun. This was most likely the only fashion week event where drinking and driving was not only accepted, but encouraged.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Philipp Plein.

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Damir Doma brought a variety of colors and oversize garments for their SS18 collection. An eclectic mix of styles and tastes, you never really know what to expect from Damir Doma.

Not the first designer this season to throw in some cool pops of seafoam green, the collection featured many colors and patterns, all splashed upon baggy garments. For example, a baggy, striped suit or a huge overcoat layered on various garments with different patterns. Models (both male and female) sported chunky necklaces and we also loved that diverse collection of models. They seemed to be rather gender fluid — many of the looks could, in theory work for men or women. We also loved pops of gold layered underneath suits and trench coats.

Asymmetric shirts and coats were held together with white shoelaces laced up — an interesting alternative to a traditional button, snap or buckle. Many of the looks were paired with bowling style shoes, but something it just seemed to work.

BDMOTP loved the sweaters featured. Although the collection is technically for spring and summer, a lightweight, baggy black and white sweater could look really cool layered over a pair of shorts. Of course, seaform green is a color we are excited to see more of for next spring and summer.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Damir Doma.

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Several months after direct Peter Dundas left the label, Cavalli has appointed a new creative director: Paul Surridge.

Surridge isn’t new to the game, as he’s worked with Z Zegna, Acne studios, Calvin Klein, Burberry and more. When Dundas left, Cavalli was headed for a radical turn. A large company reorganization moved the headquarters from Milan to Florence and spurred 200 layoffs. The idea, as is with most fashion brands, is to turn a profit, which seems to be hard in this day’s market with shifts in shopping styles and increased millennium online-shopping.

The CEO of the company Gian Giacomo Ferraris explains that “In this environment, only iconic brands with a coherent business model and an efficient organisation can survive. I believe the Cavalli brand has what it takes to succeed. But the reality is that the company’s costs must be in line with its revenues and that is the task we now have to embark upon.”

The hire in Surridge several months after Dundas’ departure was an intentional one, according to the brand. They first wanted to have the restructuring in order before someone new came on to take the reins, ready to take a strong lead in a new direction. Of the reasons Surridge was such an idea candidate was because he has strong digital communication skills, and that’s what it takes to succeed in today’s fashion game: social media and digital skills.

You’ll be able to see Surridge’s footprint, but not for awhile. His first season will be shown in the fall, the Spring/Summer 2018 collection in Milan.

Roberto Cavalli hires a new creative director in hopes of turning profit. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Roberto Cavalli hires a new creative director in hopes of turning profit. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Words by Lori Zaino and photo as specified in caption.

 

 

Canali has decided to go minimalist for AW17/18. This, in turn, doesn’t take away from the sheer elegance of the brand, in fact, the collection seems to become even more dignified. Simply put, there aren’t any extra bells and whistles to distract customers away from the simple truths of Canali: fine fabrics and fine tailoring.

Speaking of fabrics, a focus on cashmere and wool keep the garments soft and worn. Above all, we see long trenches, some belted in a more casual robe style. Keeping up with trend, layers are present, turtlenecks under blazers under trenches. Patterns like plaid and herringbone give off a slight 1960s “Mad Men” feel. BDMOTP loves the rich browns and oxblood colors present in the collection.

For a little bit more on how the lovely Canali garments are constructed, check out their video Rewind.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Canali.

Daks, a BDMOTP favorite, showed an elegant and classical British collection at Milano Fashion Week. Based on the sartorial tailoring of the ever-so-stylish British gentleman, Daks provides some insight on how real men should dress.

This season, modern takes on traditional styles shook things up. Distinguished models strutted the runway to classic jazz tunes in their houndstooth, plaid and herringbone wear.

Of course, we see the elegant prints like plaid, stripes and patterns, but expect them mixed together for AW17/18. Jackets with cutouts and extra high-waisted pants, while still seemingly preppy, gave the looks an edge.

Details are ever present, with leather gloves and briefcases and fitted hats all forming part of the line. Highlights for BDMOTP were the Daks take on the man cape, fitted to let the arms out and turtlenecks under suit jackets and tailored shirts. Look for hints of silver, giving some shine to a collection based upon a blustery, grey London.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Daks.

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