Founded in 2012, London-based, Dent De Man offers tailored items for men made with vintage prints fabrics. The main focus of the brand is on the creation of the print.

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All the prints they use are vintage prints made by the Holland brand Vlisco, they range from 1880’s to 1930’s. The prints are made with traditional Javanese (from Java, Indonesia) printing techniques, which has been industrialized about a hundred years ago. All of the Dent de Man print designs are hand drawn, hand carved and then put through vintage printing machines several  times to get different layers. Therefore, each garment has a slightly different print, making every piece in their collection exclusive. The quality of the fabrics is outstanding, each print has 25 year guarantee. The sewing production is based in both Portugal and England.

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The Dent De Man winter collection was presented in Milan during Milan Fashion Week this January, introducing an outerwear line for the very first time. The outerwear has a very rock’n’roll, British feel to it. Items include a classic British macintosh, overcoat and bomber jacket. For the winter collection, the designers are bringing in more wools and knits combined with patterned linen.

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Don’t worry-if you aren’t daring enough to go for a bright patterned jacket, there are more subtle, contemporary pieces like a sweater or long sleeved shirt that you can pair with a basic jacket.

The motifs of the prints used in this collection are devoted to the themes of “Life and Death”. There are prints called “Embrio”, “Love birds”, “Calypso” and “Dice of Love”. Each print brings it’s own energy and meaning and tells it’s own story.

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Fashion director Chris Chasseaud explains, “Every individual tells a story. People resonate with different prints, whether it’s the color or whether it’s the design. And they have their own feeling of what it might mean.”

Dent de Man is very much linked with art and music. The creative team is inspired by the British rock’n’roll scene of past and present. Miles Kane and other rockers and artists are among those who wear Dent de Man. Indeed Dent De Man is created for free and charismatic people- those who are comfortable with themselves, and not afraid to bring out their emotional side.

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Dent de Man is generally translated as “Tooth of Man.” Chasseaud elaborates that the name has more meanings.

“We wanted a very simple play on words, nothing too much, which even reflects in our logo, it’s very simple black and white, because we want the prints to be doing all the talking. It’s just a fun expression and sort of name. It has many meanings. We want to be mystical, that’s the whole point of the brand. There’s something about everyone who wears the brand, but you don’t know what exactly. And the same with the brand, there’s something you like, but you don’t know. We don’t want to give too much away, because it’s all about the print. The print tells the stories, the print brings the energy.”

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The spring prints, such as this one, have been very popular in Italy.

The brand is very popular in China, Hong Kong and Japan. They have several Italian boutiques, because the summer color palette really works for the Italians. They give buyers an option to choose different color combinations, which allows different boutiques to have a unique aspect. Some territories, like in Asia, might want certain prints, when in Europe they might want others.

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The Dent de Man jacket is going to cost around 450 to 550 euros depending on the print. But know that along with this price, you are getting a handmade, unique garment…one that brings a little mystery to life!

Leave it to the Italians.  All wannabe soi-disant rapper and hip-hop ‘gangsters’ can make my day!  Notwithstanding your ‘bling’, your cheap mass-marketed clothing lines guilded & steeped in your own artist’s names, your self-styled perfumes, aye, even the faux violence of your well-branded bad-boy life-style, you are still missing one essential ingredient and quality:  That Most Wanted Style at the time of your inevitable arrest!

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Indeed there is never a bad time to make a good lasting impression which will cement your legacy as a bad boy forever:  So why not chose Cantarelli, and their pretty darn awesome ‘Stile Ricercato’, a most wanted style for winter and autumn based upon the mug-shot images of gangsters of times of yore.  Yes for this mucho-retro style we are talking about the twenties and the thirties because it is most probable that indeed we have to go this far back before first finding some real bad boys who cared as much about how they dressed and how they looked, as that they valued their ‘careers’.

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What strikes immediately when confronted with this fascinating collection of menswear in person is not only the old patterns and the old stitch, but very much so the old COLORS of faded browns, jaded greys, and gruesome blues, as if the art of coloring fabrics yet still needed to be invented at the time.  On such old retro tweeds indeed a small white pochette makes an incredible difference and any accessory you may care to carry or wear is going to stand out to the point that it WILL be noticed:  Your tweed casket has a different pattern – it will be noticed; you leave your tie untied – it will be noticed; you have something in your pocket or in your hand – it will be noticed, because your suit is meant and designed not to make you stand out, but to blend and fade you back into the background, so that what comes out is your personal style, your movement, and the character of your face.

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Large long lost-square patterns and some darker shades of rust-red or ancient orange blend in nicely into the surprisingly light fabrics and wearing these precious items you will not only imagine yourself on the scene of old forgotten B-movies for which the script was never really finished or published, but you will also feel like the man of action of old, because these suits and jackets and ties and other items, they are not stiff, not ‘modern’, not meant to satisfy the taste of a man who buys a suit for business, but for a man who is on the move.

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Thus perhaps Cantarelli, a designer family from Arezzo in Italy, may have arrived at their new ‘stile ricercato’ most-wanted collection, and word has it that it was Mr. Cantarelli himself who came up with the idea and that most sales world-wide have been coming from the USA.  Working the Pitti Uomo in Florence at the beginning of January we were impressed immediately by the originality of this rather unique concept & design because the collection harks back to a time when style could not yet be purchased in a store – let alone shopped for online on your handheld device or pad; it is simply NOT ready-to-wear, because this is still from a time when clothes were worn to dress yourself, modestly, carefully, and properly.  Wear-to-Care, and NOT Read-to-Wear.  Just look at the following picture, and enjoy:

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We looked it up and the Italian ‘ricercato’ has several meanings besides the English word ‘wanted’:  Indeed it also means ‘precious’, ‘in great demand’, ‘refined’, and finally ‘most sought-after’ – as  in ‘most wanted’ of course, a very apt name for a very special style, for a very special collection, for which the woman leaning on your arm is called Molly, and for which your hat falls halfway across your face, and your cigarette halfway from your mouth, while you take a sip of your drink.  But then the doors to the bar swing open, and you are inadvertently arrested even though you did nothing; but you are ready…

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Yulia Gromova.

I was very excited to see the D.Gnak runway show here in Milan, as we had the opportunity to see the D.Gnak runway show in Seoul just a few months ago during Seoul Fashion Week. I really enjoyed the line in Seoul so I had high expectations for the show in Milan.

The fun thing about D.Gnak is that they are from Korea and they really know how to mix European tailoring with a little Asian flavor and style. After seeing mainly European brands for the past week or so, it was refreshing to get a vibe of something different. The silhouettes were particularly interesting, and we saw a lot of the current trends like plaid, leather, and shorter pants. Some of the coats also had particularly original cuts, lengths and styles. I like when a designer can change it up but still stay current with trends too.

BDMOTP favorite: oxblood suit with patterned sweater underneath.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Frankie Morello 2014-15

Frankie Morello dates back to 1999, and was created by two emerging designers, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti. Their philosophy is that “order arises from disorder” and that a “refined balance of opposites in harmony” are how garments should be created and interact. I thought about this as I saw their Fall/Winter 2014-15 runway show “Retro Space Voyage”, which was a sporty mix of a modern man’s go to essentials with retro thrown, and it all made perfect sense.

I appreciated that many of the garments could be easily paired with something else; the mix and match element was apparent throughout the whole line-true sportswear! Neoprene was used in a few of the looks, and there was a grand emphasis on the structure of the clothes, a looser, cocoon fit. Several of the garments had saying on them, like “Rude” or “I’m Not Cool” or the brand name. The looks were mainly black and white, but we also saw the occasional pattern, some plaid (get your plaid asap, every single designer we saw in London and Milan showed at least some plaid!) and of course, the old school throwback to the beloved baseball hat.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

We had just enough time between shows to pop over to the Alberto Moretti presentation, which consisted of luxury footwear. This family company began in Arezzo (Tuscany) and Alberto Moretti makes shoes for both men and women. All the designs are hand crafted right here in Italy, making for products perfectly constructed and executed. The shoes are flashy yet elegant, and apparently a signature of Moretti shoes is velvet. These shows are chic and glamorous, and just so very Italian! This season, chains, fur and gems appear on the shoes. You can also find just the right amount of leopard print here, not too much or too little. Rumor has it that Ryan Gosling and Cameron Diaz are fans of this luxurious brand.

BDMOTP favorite: Lace on black velvet slipper, and the rock style, a calfskin loafer with a leather sole and rounded toe.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Noir Cowboy, Phillipp Plein’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection was full of Wild West surprises. After last season’s Casino themed show, we were pretty excited to see what this season’s line would be all about. As we walked into the Teatro Alcione, country tunes blared as a model rode a mechanical bull. As we stepped into the next room, fake “sawdust” (in the color noir, of course) was on the ground. We took our seats and the arena was packed. The show started with cowboys fighting in an old saloon stage, followed by cowboys on horses riding in and having a “shootout”. Following this, live rapper Angel Haze came out, and the show started.

The men were dressed as cowboys, but with a modern twist. A lot of leather jackets, some denim, fringe and plaid were all present within the collection. We saw a lot of luxurious materials like crocodile skin, calfskin and pony skin, which seems to be a reoccurring theme here in Milan this season. Plein explains that this collection is all about the modern cowboy: one must have boots, lots of leather, pretty much anything a man this day in age would wear while getting ready to defend his honor and fight for his love and rights!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

After seeing Vivienne Westwood’s incredible Spring/Summer 2014 line last June, we were super excited to see it again this season. The show was packed full of people ready to check out her new Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection.

Ms. Westwood is known for her environmental concerns, and instead of a PR handout at the show, we simply got a paper saying “Fracking is the Big Fight. We must challenge the irresponsible behavior of our goverments who are trying to force fracking upon us”. For those of you who don’t know, fracking is the process of drilling down into the earth before a high-pressure water mixture is directed at the rock to release the gas inside, and is controversial because of negative impact it has on the environment.

Obviously, the Vivienne Westwood collection reflects her viewpoints on protecting the planet and I suppose part of her inspiration comes from this. In any case, the collection was beautiful, consisting of some casual wear and then more sophisticated looks like suits and overcoats.

BDMOTP favorite: anything oxblood color, especially the suit and coat

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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The john varvatos Fall/Winter 2014 collection was filled with surprises, the biggest off all being the band KISS making an appearance at the show! But the entire collection was based on surprise, the idea of a man in disguise, adding a bit of fantasy to the collection, the same way the band KISS adds a bit of disguise and fantasy by painting their faces. Several of the models had the faces painted in a KISS-esque manner and had that sort of “Rock and Roll”vibe going on.

The collection is shiny and shimmery, using luxury fabrics like silk and embossed calfskin. Hats were a fun addition to the accentuate the designs. Silver details draw your eye to the collection. The first thought that comes to mind when you see these looks is simply sharp. The demure suits are paired with combat boots and shimmery touches, which sounds odd, but evokes charm and interest. The john varvatos collection is sharp and tough while still staying elegant.

BDMOTP favorite: pretty much everything!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Tom Rebl was the very first show we saw here at Milan Fashion Week. The Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection was entitled “Shocking Radiance”. The line was inspired by warriors and icy lands in Northern Europe, and models had their faces painted to emphasize the warrior look. Though Tom himself is German, the line is crafted here in Italy.

The collection was quite large and spanned a variety of colors and silhouettes. BDMOTP liked the more streamlined looks, and the suits were phenomenal. The colors were nature inspired, a lot of evergreen and bronze were used.  A lot of the collection was juxtaposed, for example a glossy gold next to a rough leather. In some cases very exotic fabrics were used: fur, snakeskin, pony skin and mohair, to give the collection a luxury feel, while in other cases very contemporary fabrics were used like polymide wetsuit fabric or nylons (again adding to the juxtaposition of the collection). The masculine spirit was clearly emulated within the Tom Rebl collection, but also contrasted with the man skirt to give it a more feminine edge.

BDMOTP favorites: army green suit and bronze suit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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Not every man is comfortable in pink as  pink is the one color traditionally appropriated by women, but should we really care? Why NOT wear pink just like any other color on the spectrum? It seems to make no sense NOT to wear pink. There is no reasonable argument or logic not to wear pink. Yet despite the many pink business shirts or polos, and the occasional pink tie that we notice in man’s wardrobe & fashion, the color pink is generally grossly under-represented for men to wear since what appears to be the beginning of time.

Therefore, please follow carefully the following analysis of why perhaps men CAN wear pink if they want,after all, it’s analogy of sports fashion, which will indicate that no man should fear to wear pink, not in any form, style, or fashion.  Men in pink it is!

The old joke is that in order for a man to qualify to be on the Italian National Soccer Team, one’s first qualification must not be talent, fitness, stamina, or experience – but simply beauty. One would expect therefore that Italian men in soccer would neither exhibit fear nor shame to wear pink. And indeed, the venerable soccer team of Juventus of Turin (whose nickname is the Old Lady), last season (2012/2013) for the first time dared to have their AWAY jerseys – good grief – in the controversial color of pink. Why, we shall never know – besides the fact that sponsors and clothing manufacturers often change the away jersey kits while keeping home jerseys colors the same –, but for this season (2013/2014) Juventus now has changed their away jersey from beautiful pink to ordinary canary yellow. Was pink too progressive even for the Old Lady? Even for beautiful men, all of them close to gods?

No, but now we must look to most southern and isolated part of Europe, a place which was once part of ancient Greece, and not of Rome, to find the ONLY soccer team in Europe which has the courage and the sense of style and fashion to wear pink – pink & black shorts, pink jerseys, pink socks – for their home jerseys; it’s the Sicilian city of Palermo.  The Telegraph of London once had the Palermo outfit listed as number one in a series of ugliest sports’ wear on record, but we respectfully digress, because the Palermo players look good and comfortable in their jerseys, and most definitely handsome as well.

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But its glaringly clear that all men are not comfortable in pink. Not even in sports. Quick research shows (and you can try this yourself) that if you Google a man’s sport and the color pink that many different items show up, but hardly any teams or players. Palermo is an exception confirming the rule. The NFL has a pink program to create awareness for breast cancer apparently, but no team has appropriated the color. No hockey or basketball or baseball teams in pink. Pinkseems to be limited for fundraising efforts in men’s sports, also in baseball. And when grown up men and professional soccer players are asked to put on pink shirts for just one such a fundraiser, the results may be sadly comical. Here is, if one picture is worth a thousand words, a picture of Everton (the Premier League) trying on their pink fundraising jerseys before the match; all players look HIGHLY uncomfortable (except the goalkeeper who is in green).

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So are there really no real men who love wearing pink in the universe except the beautiful Greek-Italians of Palermo?
Well, to make mother proud, and to change the name of the game, there certainly is ONE gravity defying professional rugby outfit in the Capital of Fashion itself – the Stade Français of Paris – who may very well have appropriated the color pink in a way that no woman’s sports team ever could. They wear pink on their sleeves, not just soft pink like Palermo, but frequently outrageous bright pink, decorated with flowers no less, setting the tone in voluptuous colors, and not just the tone before the match. These guys mean serious business not only when it comes to crushing opponents, but when it comes to style. If indeed it is true that, to paraphrase Oscar Wilde, every good conversation always starts with a pose, then these guys are not afraid at all, and they will start their rugby games with no fear and living the full bounty of what is superior style & color. Pink is their name & pink is their GAME. It is said that a man’s armor is his body and such, in all their skin colored hues, Stade Français, make all MEN – and their mothers – proud! Shocking indeed, but shockingly beautiful!

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Thus visiting the Stade Français boutique at the stadium to do research for this article, the thought dawned that perhaps here was the only Pink Men’s Wear Store in the world. All items imaginable (lanyards, flags, hats, scarfs, shirts, underwear, socks etc. and then some) at the store were available in different hues and shades of pink, generally ranging between the color of fuchsia and soft pink, but with the flash pink missing for this season.

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Stade Français carries a beautiful and grand Lily as a logo on all items (many rugby teams worldwide, both at the national level as well as club, have appropriated symbols NOT from the animal kingdom, but from kingdom of plants (the English Rose, the Fern of the All Blacks, the Lily-of-the-Valley by Toulon rugby, etc.)) and recently the venerable South African rugby team, to stay in style, has changed its logo from the Springbok, an animal, to the King Protea Flower, a grand flower, as the new symbol of a united post-apartheid South Africa.

Stade Français, by living up pink, has single-handedly smashed with both hands the stereotype that pink for women only.  The color pink has now become available for men to be courted and used. But how is this going to affect men wearing pink in the future of every-day life? Pink in the office? Pink at the bar? Hmmm.

Must we really first become a soccer prima-donna with a gun tattoo on the arm, and wearing a number 10 on the back, and then score goals like Fabricio Miccoli of Palermo?

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Must we really become first like James Haskell of Stade Français: Ugly, mean, English, and fearsome, before pink looks good on us!?

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No! I think not.

Aerosmith sang long ago:
Pink, it’s my new obsession
Pink, it’s not even a question
Pink, it’s the color of passion
Cause today it just goes with the fashion

So just to make sure, and to be on the safe side, we asked the pretty saleswoman at the boutique Stade Français, what, if anything, a man should NEVER wear in pink. The answer was ruthlessly immediate and direct, and yes gentlemen, there does remain a single taboo which even Stade Français Rugby will not break for you: A man is never EVER to wear PINK dress shoes …words to live by!

Posted by: Sandro

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