The name Ports 1961 brings visions of yachting along the Mediterranean, stark-white from head-to-toe and sailor-style navy and stripes. While this isn’t quite the Ports 1961 aesthetic, we were pleased to note that Milan Vukmirovic did add a dash of stripes to his Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection — though that’s where the boating vibes end. Instead, the collection features urban contemporary styles with an underlying European fit and Asia/European tone.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren't getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren’t getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

The designer co-founded the legendary concept store Colette, which is closing its doors December 20, 2017 to the dismay of fashionistas around the world. We could harp on this sad occurrence all day, but we won’t, because focusing on the Ports 1961 Fall collection makes us much happier.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Ports 1961 really went visceral with the colorblocking trend this season, covering sweaters and shirts with large sections of contrasting tones. We get a flash of pastel and white here too — don’t forget winter white is still a thing and the Labor Day white rule goes out the door when you exit the good ol’ US of A. So feel free to sport your winter white with pride all over Europe, Asia and beyond this fall and winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

It wouldn’t be fall without a dash of layering, and Ports 1961 goes more formal with a open-cut style sleeve cape over a colorblocked, partially unbuttoned shirt. The contrasting formal style juxtaposes perfectly with the more casual baggy trousers and unbuttoned, untucked shirt, still crisply ironed, of course.

Layers galore.

Layers galore.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ports 1961.

Gucci is one for a very special brand of men. We all know the types, the cool surfers & the beachgoers – the Miami deck bar types in flashing color throw away costumes, the Hamptons type who like to go as Jay Gatsby, the Ibiza & Mykonos wannabes with their latest Jay Alvarez impressions, and we know the luxury yacht men in their dinner jackets pretending to be James Bond. These are all the very fashionable stings and pangs of the leisure casts and the rich kids of Instagram of today.

However, here now – thanks to the House of Gucci – finally there is something completely different, something for a different caste of man all together, something that carves up a new exclusive domain as a grand entry into the pantheon of men’s fashion, something which heretofore had only be reserved for special women: Cruise & Resort Fashion – as in fashion for men.

Enter the yellow carpet, on which walk colorful imperial Gucci creations in all its baroque glory which could only have been invented in and around the old renaissance capital of Florence. Clearly the House of Gucci needs no introduction, but this collection, because this domain is an innovation in men’s fashion, definitely does. And so this particular and peculiar SS18 collection was presented discretely in Firenze on 29 May 2017 as a part of the collection for women’s wear – hiding among the harem so to speak. And we’re sorry we missed it.

For which man has ever dreamt of measuring up to Heliogabalus – the forgotten Roman boy emperor, and dressing up like a god-king? Which man can tap into his inner Rasputin for that matter, and grow a ‘guccified’ (the word exists) hipster-beard so ugly that it would certainly get you killed during the next winter palace revolution? Or how about that unshaven look spotting a daft Saddam-mustachio while wearing a silky foulard around your neck to set off the roses or the peonies on your black renaissance costume?

These and others here below on display are the grand creations all for men to whom luxury is not a necessity to prove anything at all, least of all to themselves, but rather is a special privilege to be enjoyed for pleasure only and only your own pleasure within the restricted confines of a private secluded resort or perhaps a 19th century trans-Atlantic cruise. Exit the yellow carpet.

Men! Be bold, be brave, be Gucci – and Guccify yourselves!

Words by Sandro and photos from Gucci by GPS Radar.

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It’s sometimes cool to be geek and hip to be square with the latest Oliver Peoples 2017 collection of sunglasses made privately for Berluti and which – by and large – comes more often than not in the ominously morose color of tobacco brown so as if to say ‘I really don’t care what you think what I look like’ especially when the framework does not only come in aviator cool or Persol hip, but also in that one gaudy square shape that will immediately turn any halfway good-looking man into a fumbling geek or an insecure nerd like superman transformed into the bumbling journalist Clark Kent of the Daily Bugle. But that is called style my friend!

Italian style, for these little masterpieces are all handcrafted in Italy and are well worth seeking out if you like to go Sotto Voce, and not screaming in agony for attention like K – Pop Instagram wannabe starlets in Gentle Monster to the latest greatest runway show trying to be seen, but rather to observe what is going in this grand world of fashion of ours. Well of course you are going to need some matte or semi-matte tobacco looking sunglasses because polaroid is just that necessary at the moment while you are sitting still in reflection and not aiming to be speeding in your car or taxi to the next ‘event’. Your Italian style, of course, speak for itself, and this is where Oliver Peoples 2017 for Berluti comes in real handy.

Thank god not too many lens or frame colors to choose from, but keeping it simple in tobacco, grey, indigo, some gold, and of course nero these vintage shades are all that you really need if you are NOT looking for attention because you know that class always comes with rather low key traditional style. No questions asked. No need to flaunt it. Because it is Hip to be Square, and Cool to be Geek. With Oliver Peoples 2017 sunglasses for Berluti.

Words by Sandro and photos from Oliver Peoples via GPS Radar

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Philipp Plein had two nights of shows and two epic parties this season at Milan Uomo Fashion Week. Actually — if you count Billionaire, his third line, he actually had three shows. As his first show and after party were pretty epic thanks to a collection of luxury cars, an appearance from model Jeremy Meeks and bumper cars, Plein Sport had quite a bit to live up to.

The show started as beautiful girls marched towards poles along the catwalk and began quite the series of pole dancing. Mexican masked street fighters entered in boxing rings and began to fight. BDMOTP actually wasn’t sure where to look, there was so much going on. Both male and female models began to strut their stuff, wearing the newest athleisure looks, bold and beyond, as it usually is with Plein.

Grey was ever present in the collection as tee shirts and shorts layered over Spandex leggings, topped with sporty vests and puffy jackets walked the runway. Monogrammed high-school sports tees and neon embellishments topped the sporty layers. Loud and proud, Plein also incorporated the number 78 on many of his looks. Armbands, leggings with built in knee pads, shin guards duffel bags all accessorized the line, and of course, only the coolest sneakers with words like “faster” written across Velcro straps were present. Surirprise, surprise, model Jeremy Meeks also graced the Plein Sport with his presence too.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Plein.

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Fratelli Rossetti brings some special newness to their collection for SS18 at Milan Fashion Week Mens. Aptly titled “Ocean Weave,” the shoe collection is woven by hand in fishing villages around Italy. Three kinds of weaves are present in the new collection: a large, perforated pattern, a zigzag and the Rossetti signature micro-weave. Additionally, the collection celebrates the 60th anniversary of the brand, which is still owned and run by the Rossetti family.

Each shoe in the collection is made from only the best leather and suede, ensuring you can comfortably wear the shoes without socks in the hot summer. The leather soles are also hand-painted in with the same colors as the rest of the shoe.

This season, the colors were rather unique. The tones, reflecting the title, were created specifically to mimic the colors of the ocean, like shades of the ocean, the sky, the sand and the greenish shrubbery. The presentation was set up specifically to feel the the ocean vibes, with models sitting upon ropes and rocks, Fratelli Rossetti shoes delicately place on their feet.

BDMOTP especially loves the bright greenish yellow loafer with the larger weave. Once of the most originally footwear pieces we’ve spotted for SS18, we can’t help but crave to walk the sandy shores in this stylish shoe.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Fratelli Rossetti.

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Welcome to Bar Tiptoe, where Santoni is serving up fresh espresso, warm croissants and delicious footwear. Yup, you heard right. For SS18, Santoni decided to change things up a bit and host a small soiree featuring coffee, snacks and shoes, all served up on a silver platters. After all, everything seems to look better served to you on a silver platter, right?

Waiters walked around with their trays, you never did know what you might get. Perhaps a small pistachio tart, perhaps a cold glass of fruit infused water…or maybe a pair of deep green dresses shoes with two class side buckles. In fact, this season seemed to be characterized by the deep, rich green and blue leather tones. The brushed grey leather was also a a special look, giving the shoe both depth and texture.

A few selections of white dress shoes were passed around on trays, unique styles, a whole new world away from the typical gym shoe, that buckled and laced. A shiny patent leather loafer glimmered in the sunlight, perfect for that wedding or dressier occasion you can’t see to find the right footwear for. Summer is complete here too, with a snazzy pair of leather flip flops so you can look just as cool at the beach as you do walking around the city, the town or at work. Santoni’s got you for every occasion, it seems.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Santoni.

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Ermanno Scervino showed their SS18 collection at Milan Fashion Week Uomo, entitled “Today I Love You.” This season, Scervino chose to go a more casual, modern route than in past years, creating wearable weekend looks for men. He took inspiration from different time periods and cultures, especially Great Britain.

BDMOTP loved the palm tree sweaters layered over striped tees and casual khaki shorts. In fact, the palm trees were the chosen motif of the collection and the oversize Bermuda shorts, a tribute to the Prince of Wales, was a distinctive feature of the line. Just because the line seemed more relaxed doesn’t mean it wasn’t impeccably tailored, of course, and each thread was perfectly woven into the next on each garment. There was the occasional suit appearance paired with soft leather weekender bags and briefcases, and military-inspired outerwear was layered over plaid button-up shirts and white denim pants.

In case you forgot the title of the collection, belts spelling out “Today I Love You” were found on some of the looks. The athleisure trend is still going strong for SS18, and don’t be surprised to see casual button-up shirts half tucked into relaxed jogging pants, sweats or track pants, lined with a strip or band along the side. Sneakers sans laces also paired along with some of the looks, keeping the collection light, casual and carefree.

BDMOTP favorite: The plaid overcoat layered over a red and white striped sweater.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ermanno Scervino.

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Italian-inspired for an Italian brand, Cifonelli presented their SS18 collection at Milan Fashion Week Uomo. Inspired by the sweet life of 1950s Rome, the collection wass stylish, chic and and modern, despite it’s 50s ideals.  After chatting with the designer, BDMOTP decided this was Cifonelli’s most intricate collection yet, and we can’t wait to sport some of the pieces.

With soft tones of grey and beige plaid (and let’s not forget the traditional black and white) the collection has a very Cary Grant vibe, thanks to the single-breasted jackets with three-button closures, a relaxed yet tailored fit that sits well on any man, despite size or shape.

The Renatto jacket is another BDMOTP favorite, featuring a four-button closure and patch pockets. The Paolo jacket is a bit heavier for a chillier spring day, finished in both tweed and suede. No matter how hot or warm, the straw fedoras and open-collared shirts will keep a gentleman cool and sexy at the same time. Sandals and snazzy dress shoes are reminiscent of the 1950s inspirations, and we can just see one of the models now climbing onto his Vespa for a quick spin around the city. Or wait, was that now, or was it 1955? Could be either!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Cifonelli.

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DAKS took a spin at the Henley Royal Regatta for SS18 at Milan Fashion Week. The story was set right from the get go: a runway complete with a large wooden boat and other vintage artifacts signifying the start of a day filled with crew races. And one runway show, of course.

DAKS always gives a whole new meaning to the word dapper. Retro looks of baggys, striped shirts and sweaters tucked in beneath vests, leather jackets and blazers set the scene. Models walked the runway with derby hats (Daks calls them boat racing hats) and false mustaches, setting the scene for an antique day at at the races.

Trends for SS18 include the baggy linen white pant and the concept of tucking anything and everything into the pant, such as vests, sweaters, shirts, tees all in basic, warm tones like beige, off white and brown. While the looks are decidedly a tribute to the past, modern touches still come through, like plaid for spring, stripes and of course, solid leather. To top it off, hats featured small House Check ribbons.

BDMOTP is always a fan of DAKS, as their preppy, British looks sit well with our savvy, sartorial readers. This season we can’t help but love the vintage vibe, so hop onboard and pickup your hat for the regatta here!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from DAKS.

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This season, Guiseppe Zanotti took his footwear line and branched out. Using interesting new materials on his shoes for SS18 such as denim and neoprene, the Zanotti look has always been wild, but this was a whole new ballgame. Inspired by the 90s, Zanotti took his bedazzled and colorful sneakers to the top once again, but added some functional twists. Besides the new shoe fabrics, Zanotti also showed some clothing such as jackets and pants, plus some backpacks.

Part of the collection was more subdued than Zanotti usually takes it, but with small touches like a silver bow tie on a loafer or simply some new, cool colors like an olive green or a grey suede. As usual, his kitschy sneakers were a very prominent part of the collection, with gold, silver and colorful adornments. The neoprene sneak were a modern experiment, one we think will work thanks to the comfort of the shoes. Some of the SS18 top styles also include a denim loafer and boot, both new takes on what musicians from the 1990s ofen wore.

“Mandals,” or man-sandals, were also part of the collection. In both black and military colors, Zanotti took some inspiration from the Greek gladiator sandal, using a variety of thick straps and a wide, flat sole for a summery yet urban, stylish look.

We’re used to Zanotti being creative, but this year he really took things to a new level, incorporating some different styles and concepts into his footwear –there really is something for every man in the SS18 collection.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Zanotti.

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