Daks is always a BDMOTP favorite. Dapper as ever, a very vintage collection walked the Milan runways this season. Inspired by taking a journey on a vintage steam train, the show actually opened with a vintage steam train puffing out fashion. BDMOTP’s immediate reaction was that the collection, which featured both mens and womenswear for AW18/19, was chock-full of color. Bold yellows, bright greens and palpable reds shone on the runway, giving life to the neutral greys and beiges that also marked the collection. Velvet was also key in the collection, with rich red velvet blazers and evergreen velvet trousers.

The collection was marked by all different styles of hats — derby, baseball and otherwise. Mixing up the plaids and houndstooth, we also saw some delightful floral patterns, elegant and feminine, but meshing perfectly with the otherwise-masculine vibe of the collection.

Models walked to fun, inspiring tunes from the 60s and 70s, and then lined up to dance together at the end, giving the looks a lighthearted, fun vibe. Each look was detailed down to the very last bit — with leather driving gloves, pocket watch chains hanging out of pockets and small flowers pinned to suit lapels and coat collars. All the knitwear in the collection was artfully created using merino and Shetland wool — British to the very heart. Any gentleman from round the world would be proud to sport any or all of the items in this colorful Daks collection — possibly one of the best we’ve seen yet.

3133592523263738493503565143295320655747

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Daks.

Cifonelli is always one of the most dapper at Milan Fashion Week, and the AW18/19 collection was no different. As expected, Cifonelli’s luxurious fabrics, sleek designs and handsome models made a serious statement in the world of a gentleman. Always understated, that’s precisely why Cifonelli stands out — impeccable tailoring and neutral fabrics allow you to focus on the shape and creation of the design, which is nothing short of perfection.

This season, the focus was on the warm and soft alpaca and merino wool as well as everyone’s favorite winter fabric: cashmere. Although we were set away in a stylish atelier in Villa della Spiga in Milan, the garments are reminiscent of Savile Row, or a cricket game at famous Lord’s field in London — decidedly British but of course, never losing that element of Italian chic.

Houndstoth, plaid and herringbone dominate the collection in colors like beige, grey, brown and black. Turtlenecks are also a key element as keeping the neck warm in such a fashion is not only stylish, but practical during fall and winter. Silk pocket squares were delicately placed in overcoat pockets, reminding us that day looks can always go on into the night. Touches of velvet and derby hats completed the looks.

BDMOTP especially love the sleek plaid overcoat covering a head-to-toe grey look, which a warm turtleneck sweater and grey trousers. We also loved how the looks, though wintery, were paired with sunglasses, reminding us that even during a harsh winter, the sun still shines.

Cifonelli-FW-18-19-2MG_4844Cifonelli-FW-18-19MG_4291MG_4605

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Cifonelli.

Andrea Pompilio presented his AW18/19 collection Supermarket a little differently this season. Heading away from the glitz and glamour of fashion week, the designer chose instead to create something that featured the strength of the clothing and the collection. No backdrop, no big show, just the power of the garments themselves.

After many years at fashion weeks — we’ve seen it all — so it’s nice to see a designer return to the importance of the clothing instead of the importance of the show.

Now for the clothes. Pompilio created a collection focused on some of his favorite travel pieces as well as some limited editions. The clothes were casual, with elements such as plaid, layers, stripes, and bold colors. We loved the way the designer combined modern and futuristic (an oversize bright blue shiny puffer coat) with more vintage items, like cowboy checks or a fitting 70s-themed floral shirt. Normally when designers delve into different styles like this, it doesn’t always fit, but this collection was cohesive as ever.

This season Pompilio worked to design his own sock line with Japanese-based designers, and we also noticed some very specific beanie hats. Long plaid overcoats and suits gave the looks that added bit of tailoring but also a fun vibe, and baggy jeans and trousers ensured that looks still met some streetwear criteria.

The only decoration in the warehouse where Pompilio showed his collection was a group of old television with a sign that said ‘Who the F*** is Andrea Pomplio,’ which is interesting, because we think everyone should know exactly who he is.

14101620050603091201181108

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Andrea Pompilio.

Walking the Milan catwalks for the very first time, Isabel Benenato showed her AW18/19 collection, a memorable collaboration of knitwear and casual, neutral separates layered underneath winter outerwear.

Whereas Benenato states her inspiration comes from ‘travel to the planets’ like obscure Pluto and fiery Mars, we simply see a cool collection of menswear garments, with Asian silhouettes and perfect tailoring. A touch of avant-garde with voluminous shapes, the collection is still wearable — think black, brown and grey wool coats layered over t-shirts and baggy trousers. The collection also had womenswear, but the menswear was what really shone, in our humble opinion.

Long white threads were spotted throughout the collection, created to reflect the stars and constellations on the dark night sky.

Benenato also designed her own shoes, handcrafted in Italy. Both boots and derby styles walked the runway, and fit in effortlessly with the designs. Most of the outwear in the collection was woven on antique looms — scarves, coats, capes and more. The result is a mishmash of imperfect, artistic elements that create detail and edginess when paired with more neutral looks. Some of the looks were topped off by scaly, fish-skin accessories, creating depth and texture for the looks.

BDMOTP especially loved the oversize, long coats and winter touches like a beret cap or a long, heavy turtleneck knit sweater. The whole collection, while never losing its elegance, gave a whole new meaning to the Danish term ‘hygge’ which means cozy and comfortable.

IsabelBenenato.-0022IsabelBenenato.-0011IsabelBenenato.-0006IsabelBenenato.-0016IsabelBenenato.-0021IsabelBenenato.-0033IsabelBenenato.-0009IsabelBenenato.-0014IsabelBenenato.-0029IsabelBenenato.-0032IsabelBenenato.-0026IsabelBenenato.-0012IsabelBenenato.-0003IsabelBenenato.-0025IsabelBenenato.-0013IsabelBenenato.-0018IsabelBenenato.-0020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Isabel Benenato.

Frankie Morello’s AW18/19 collection was titled #FrankieMorelloEscape, and BDMOTP would honestly love to escape into this collection. Although Morello often pushes the fashion limits, this season, we were completely on board with his creative takes on fashion for both men and women, though here we’ll really be focusing on only menswear.

The collection was inspired by a path of spiritual evolution, which is interesting because the path of the collection also involved. In fact, it seemed like Morello designed many collections and fit them into one, but somehow, they all seemed to cohesively fit together perfectly. The looks start with black leather and studs, inspired by an intense cityscape, New York, perhaps. The collection then begins to evolve into something slightly softer, but still strong, with wool and jackets with fur collars and lining. We especially enjoyed the mohawk hat/hood, which has a line of black fur down the middle. Perfect for those who want to look fierce, but only sporadically.

The collection continues into looks ranging from a dapper pinstriped suit to a super trendy jackets with leather sleeves and even culminates in a sweater with the word A**h*** printed on it. Not sure if we’ll be sporting that particular look here at BDMOTP, but we understand the fashion inspiration behind it. Denim jackets and jacquared blazers continue to walk the runways, with the final look fit for a Tibetan king — head-to-toe in floor length fur, born with attitude.

033_MNT_7540038_MNT_7599014_MNT_7295051_MNT_7791020_MNT_7373064_MNT_7992061_MNT_7942023_MNT_7410067_MNT_8051035_MNT_7561058_MNT_7899003_MNT_7172001_MNT_7152040_MNT_7624069_MNT_8072036_MNT_7577071_MNT_8115045_MNT_7704

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Frankie Morello.

Sulvam made it a point to share that this collection, which walked the AW18 runway in Milan, was a menswear collection. But, in today’s society, which designer Teppei Fujita says is “gender-free,” things are a little bit different, and every look in the collection can also be worn by a female. Or any gender or non-gender in between.

This was made clear when both males and females walked the runway in the ‘menswear’ collection. For this particular line, the designer really wanted to return to his roots, so the collection was inspired by the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Most of the looks use dark colors and larger silhouettes. When making sure a line is not gender-specific, oversize is important — obviously, the garments can’t be too tailored, otherwise they wouldn’t properly fit either males or females, hence the baggy looks.

We love the sort of ‘office wear gone bad’ style. It seems as if people are simply tired of regular work clothes and are searching for something new. Enter Sulvam, whose ripped up, oversize pinstripe and windowpane tunics seem like the ideal alternative. Plus, the Timberland boots certainly give the look a defined edginess.

Furry bags and puffy coats with exposed pockets cover the angst of the office wear looks and cropped turtlenecks are layered below long, pink button ups. Of course, it wouldn’t be a 90s throwback without some baggy jeans, either, and we love the knitted vests and head gear.

sulvam_FW1819_look-15sulvam_FW1819_look-07sulvam_FW1819_look-01sulvam_FW1819_look-02sulvam_FW1819_look-17sulvam_FW1819_look-21sulvam_FW1819_look-06sulvam_FW1819_look-04sulvam_FW1819_look-14sulvam_FW1819_look-22sulvam_FW1819_look-12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Sulvam.

From Puglia to Tokyo to New York to Milan, Sartorial Monk designer Sabàto Russo combines inspirations from both the East and West in his collection Silenzio. Mimimalist Japanese garments are combined with Italian trends and tailoring to create a distinct mesh of cultures.

Models walked the runway barefoot, with long, straight leg pants, tunics and baggy, voluminous sweaters. Though I’m sure during an autumn and winter season one would need to combine these looks with some sort of footwear, the concept of Silenzio was refined thanks to the bare feet.

Although the line was minimalist and simple, casual separates made of crushed velvet and silk created a bit of essence within the line, ideal for a night out on the town in London, Milan, Tokyo or New York.

A few baggy pinstripe suits would be appropriate for an alternative office look. In fact, there were a few suits that could be worn to the office, though as they weren’t tailored to fit snugly, this workwear might be better suited to a man working in PR, fashion or advertising, rather than banking, though gentlemanly all the same.

BDMOTP especially enjoyed the burgundy crushed velvet tunic and pants, a unique look that would be ideal for a December holiday party, though we’d prefer to pair the look with footwear, of course, especially during winter weather. We also enjoyed a rather festive patterned black-and-white type that could also be fashioned into holiday wear for winter 2018.

Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK41Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK46Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK11Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK20Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK22Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK15Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK24Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK16Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK37Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK48Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK09Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK47Sartorial_Monk_FW1819-LOOK43

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Sartorial Monk.

Here at BDMOTP we are Canali super fans. Their dapper suit and casual wear is basically the definition of being a well-dressed man, and we are always the most excited to see this particular collection each season during Milan Fashion Week.

For AW18, we fell in love all over again with the long, straight overcoats and the burgundy color scheme. The collection itself was inspired by light and shadows, particularly as they emerge each morning over the cityscape.

We can’t help but be impressed by the wool, the cashmere, the plaid, the houndstooth and the herringbone. The collection is also practical, though, not just a delight to look at, with designs made from ultra-light, luxurious and warm fabrics for maximum comfort. Canali is one of the few brands, after all, that we really wouldn’t mind being decked out in head-to-toe.

Of course, that means we’d have to be onboard with the accessories too, and the lightweight leather weekender bags and briefcases perfectly match the elegant designs. The shoes also fit (quite literally) — with different varieties that complete each look. It’s nice that Canali chose to prioritize both style and comfort with their lightly squared toe.

Layer upon layer appeals to us as well. If the AW18 weather is anything like this past season, we’ll need those layers to accommodate snowstorms, summer temps, hurricanes and more — all in the span of October to March.

Here at BDMOTP we truly believe you can never go wrong with Canali, and the coming collection is simply reinforced our statement even more.

0204011214181722162423072120

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Canali.

Big Uncle launched their Inner Circle collection for AW18, and it’s just as you might have imagined. When you think about the concept of an Inner Circle, it’s the exclusiveness that really makes it what it is. The inner circle is the closeknit, the best of the best, always in the know, always the most stylish, always on the ball.

It’s a strong title for a  strong collection. Although there were only a few looks shown by Big Uncle, they certainly were part of an inner circle, important looks that were impeccably tailored and well-designed.

The garments were mainly brown and navy with pops of pink and baby blue, each look a solid representation of the brand itself. A suit, a jumpsuit, a cape, and separates were all included, and we here at BDMOTP were especially impressed by the wool jumpsuit, taking the athleisure trend to a whole new level of elegant and sporty.

Knitwear was also present in the collection with long, dangling scarves and a warm, wintery sweater. The suit, tailored and shortened to a trendy length, was embellished with some long, silky stripes.

The Inner Circle, as it often does in lifeleft us wanting more — curious to see more of what these looks represented. Here at BDMOTP we would love to see what else this brand has to share — elaborations on all of these different styles and looks — both the inner circle and the surrounding outer circle too.

Big-Uncle_1Big-Uncle_3Big-Uncle_4Big-Uncle_2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Big Uncle.

Here, at last, is the brand that needs no introduction in the world of man’s fashion as they make most of the fine and beautiful fabrics of which many of the bespoke men’s costumes in London, Paris, Milan, and New York are made. This is how executives are dressed and how movie stars go about looking good – in SCABAL (an acronym for Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise). Scabal is at the origin of the creation of the bunch booklets used today by most of the great tailors on the planet.

Founded in 1938, SCABAL is the world’s foremost producer of fabrics, supplying elite tailors and fashion houses across the globe. Each season SCABAL’s team of designers and artisan weavers create collections of the finest fabrics at the company’s English mill (from a recent press release).

So Best Dressed Man is honored today to present to you a small Q&A interview with Campbell Chrichton Dunn, creative director and chief of design at SCABAL:

  • Is it true that the suit should be carrying the man rather than the man wearing the suit?

I think this is true of all clothes, they should complement your personality and make you feel more confident.  A well-cut suit that fits you perfectly will help your posture. This is achieved not only by the suit’s cut itself, but also by any man’s tendency to stand up straight and walk correctly when they are wearing a suit.

  • What is the best occasion and the best way for a man to wear a pochette / pocket square?

I think if the pochette is well chosen and folded well it can fit any occasion. I like to see a fancy printed silk roughly folded worn with a casual jacket, but am equally keen on wearing a navy business suit with a sharply folded, white crisp pocket square.

  • Style-wise, is there too much urban chic out there today and too little classic & traditional elegance for men?

There is now more choice for men’s clothing and the menswear market is more diverse than ever before and this is not a bad thing as it gives more style choices to men. I would say there is an evolution in the classic way of dressing where people are now mixing more formal items like suits with t shirts or more loosely cut styles, suits and jackets are still an important wardrobe item but men are changing the way they wear them.

  • If SCABAL were to open up shop in the States, what city would be the best venue?

I would love to see our first store open in New York City, it’s the fashion capital of the US.

  • Besides personal initials what are some of the main reasons a client would order under-collar or on-the-cuff (shirt) embroidery?

We get a lot if customers adding important dates, wedding days, birthdays etc.  It gives them a unique product and also adds a discovery talking point that they can choose to reveal or not.

  • Is the legend true that it is the softness of the water which is the best kept secret of the old SCABAL mill at Huddersfield?

The reason why the fabric mills in England are located in the county of Yorkshire is due to the terrain of the Pennine Hills. In the 18th century, the hills allowed the water to run down easily to the mills, which were then powered by water. These days, all our fabrics are still finished by being washed in the local waters which definitely gives them an extremely soft touch.

 

  •  How does The Woolmark Company fit into the farm-to-table product philosophy of SCABAL?

Both Scabal and The Woolmark Company share the same values when it comes to wool.  To create the finest quality cloth by using the best Australian Merino wool available, with a focus on traceable, sustainable sourcing. We joined forces with Woolmark to establish the Scabal Noble Wool Club, showcasing a collection of the finest quality ultrafine merino fabrics and have recently worked with them again to launch a short film showcasing a selection of Artisans who use the best raw materials to create products of distinction across tailoring, Michelin star cuisine and customized motorcycles.

  • Is it true that every tailor on Savile Row carries SCABAL bunch books?

Scabal provides a large selection of luxury tailors with our bunch books and that includes many located on Savile Row.

 

  • What kind of sustainable development is practiced at the SCABAL Noble Wool Club?

The Noble Wool Club creates superfine wool by working only with family run Australian Merino wool farms that must meet strict environmental and ethical criteria. At the same time, Scabal works with these farms to preserve traditional methods of wool growing in the face of increasingly low quality international competition.

  • Which one is your personal favorite bunch book?

At the moment my favorite bunch books is ‘Loch Lomond’ with its wool super 140’s and cashmere fabrics with soft elegant designs.

  • Is SCABAL, in fact, what always wears James Bond?

SCABAL has provided fabric to many of the costume designers on James Bond films over the years however, we did not make any of the actual suits.

(only Miss Moneypenny knows if 007 is wearing SCABAL on this mission)

  • Who – wearing SCABAL – would be the best dressed man on the planet?

I think someone like Eddie Redmayne or Ryan Gosling would look smart and elegant in a Scabal suit.

Interview by Sandro and pictures by SCABAL except James Bond which is to be found free of credits and free to reuse without commercial purpose on Google.

 

Page 1 of 1412345...10...Last »