Devota y Lomba brings it back to the classics with a huge presence of menswear f0r  AW17/18–and not just for men. Both women and men sported tweed capes and baggy, belted suits and an all-over masculine vibe.

The belt was a big feature this season, hooking together voluminous layers under suit jackets and snazzy dress pants. Jackets layered over untucked shirts,long vests and colorblocked blazers also took the collection from a typical Savile Row dapper style to an edgy new level.

Tweed and wool offer winter warmth and bowties paired with the baggy trousers offer a juxtaposed tailored, yet untailored look that we at BDMOTP absolutely love. Plus, we loved the layered blazer upon blazer and white cuffs.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ugo Camera IFEMA.

Ana Locking presented a collection with just a few menswear looks for SS17 entitled The Thinker. Locking describes the collection as being “chaotic and reconstructed” and it really seems as the garments are just that. Belted layers and torn trousers give the line a street feel, but things still seem tailored, perhaps thanks to the structured blazers, chunky oxfords and round sunglasses.

BDMOTP loved the way Locking incorporated clashing military chic into the collection, even in the form of very short shorts. Locking inspires men to be cool, calm and edgy, so if that’s your vibe, consider picking up a piece from The Thinker collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and images from Getty.

Montesinos is always a costumed whirlwind, and the SS17 collection was just that. Inspired by Montesinos’ homeland, Valencia, Spain, he created a collection of mostly womenswear but a select few menswear pieces: bright, patterned and bold.

Baby blue for SS17.

Baby blue for SS17.

A few of the men walked the runway arm-in-arm with a female model, sporting unique, loud vests and even skirts.

Patterns and vests.

Patterns and vests.

It seems that as the seasons go on, men in skirts is still happening (unsure if this is to our joy or dismay–but hey–if you feel confident, go for it).

A young lad in a skirt.

A young lad in a skirt.

Once piece BDMOTP can definitely get behind is the vertical striped suit with patterned tee underneath, of course, with a “clashing” pocket square.

We do love this striped number.

We do love this striped number.

As always, Montesinos designs a unique bride & groom set, and this seasons was Alice in Wonderland-esque, with a top hat, gold pants and shagadellic top coat patterns.

Quite the groom.

Quite the groom.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Getty Images.

The Larenza SS17 Mexico-themed collection was showcased at the BONAVERIMILANO showroom, a simple, grey space with high ceilings and plenty of light. This small and curated collection was focused on the Mexican luchador and the bright colors really jumped out against the crisp metals and woods of the showroom.

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The Luchador collection was inspired by masked Mexican fighters, and the vibrant colors, masks and stripes all represent the liveliness and boldness of these fighters. The collection, contained to mainly knitwear, would be something fun and casual to pair with denim or khaki for a chill weekend outfit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Larenza.

How do you make high-end fur look grunge and pop? Jesus Lorenzo did a creative and retrospective job updating his fur and leather looks to represent a 90’s generation for AW16/17. Whereas there were very few menswear looks, what there was not only had a cool retro vibe but also took in the trends that are stylish right now for next fall and winter.

Of course, the longer coats with the fur collars and touches here and there of fur detailing were the focal point for me. In fact, on all the runways in the world this seems to be the focal point for men in AW16/17–and what better to do so that a fur designer! Of course, the all-fur short jacket, though slightly feminine in look, was super cool, and if paired with masculine separates, would be perfect.

Jesus Lorenzo uses only the best the of best when it comes to his fabrics. Luxurious, soft Chinchilla and Fox fur and smooth, supple leather make up the menswear looks in the collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Exteberria created a warm and cosy AW16/17. The catwalk started off with gentlemen “sleeping” among the trees…perfect timing for the Spanish release of the Revenant into theatres…would this be a similar experience? The truth is, no. Once the waltz music started playing, I had visions of travelers resting in a Bavarian forest, waiting for dawn to come, comforted in their giant fur coats. Not warriors, but simply men–men in big, furry, wonderful coats. As the first two models waltzed down the catwalk, I knew this line was all about comfort and ease.

Resting Bavarian fur-covered waltzers.

Resting Bavarian fur-covered waltzers.

The collection featured garments (well–outerwear) for both women and men, and most of the looks incorporated some sembalance of fur, in fact, loads of heavy, heavy fur, perfect for Nordic, Mongolian or Canadian winters. Leather was also used prominently in many of the designs as well as tweed. Colorblocking and even pattern blocking were also repeatedly used, and of course, right on trend with the New York, Milan and London runways for AW16/17, long, long coats with fur or shearling collars were out in full force.

Each model sported warm wool socks with leather and patched detailing to accompany the coats–not a single shoe or boat was present in the collection. The focus was definitely all on those fluffy, stylish coats. All eyes on the coats!

Any man that wants to be well-outfitted for a very chilly winter should derfinitely pìck up some Exteberria outerwear.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Francis Montesinos created a very special collection this season at MBFW Madrid. The line, called Fashion Reliquary, is an ode to Spanish fashion designers and the country of Spain itself. With tributes to well-known Spanish fashion designers like Elio Berhanyer (who, at 86, assisted the show and of course was seated in the front row) and the late Jesus del Pozo, the garments were all inspired and created with these fashion gods in mind.

Creating garments that pay homage to 6-7 different fashion designers isn’t an easy task, and it probably wasn’t the most uniform collections Montesinos has ever done, but it still worked. The few menswear looks consisted of mixing and matching textures. Knitted wool sweaters with velvet pants, leather shorts with cotton tops and sheer material underneath suits. Sporty sweatpants were also paired with more tailored tops, and some very interesting medieval and disco patterns were used for a little flamboyance.

You never know what Montesinos is going to bring to the table, and this season he brought quite a different outlook on fashion. A tribute collection will always be remembered, that’s for sure.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid kicked off their AW16/17 season with eclectic Spanish fashion designer Davidelfin and his collection Mentiras (Liars). The collection is based on the concept that as we are the people who invent reality, we invent the lies…so are they reality? A bit deep for fashion, but certainly an interesting thought.

The main focal point of the collection was scarves. And not capes or blanket scarves which have frequented the AW16/17 runways in London, Milan, Paris and NY, but the oh-so-famous soccer scarves that die-hard fans rock when heading over to enjoy a partido de fútbol. An interesting choice for a fashion designer, because many might argue these types of scarves are simply not fashionable in the least, but as Delfin literally incorporated them into the looks as part of the clothing in several instances as opposed to the scarf being ¨just an accessory,¨it somehow really works. The scarves formed part of the lapels of suits, even bra crop tops for the women. And of course, they were used as accessories in several other looks.

Besides the sporty theme, the collection also had its fair share of glitter, sparkling shoes and of course, as Delfin always incorporates a backpack, and there were several of those glittering in the bright lights. The collection featured short. cropped pants and a few jumpsuits and a modern take on sweatsuits kept right along with the sporty vibe, juxtaposed with the glitter and glam of the accessories. This season, Delfin did not play with volume, and most of his looks were slim and tailored.

All in all, a different type of collection from Delfin this season…so, I suppose the only thing left to do at this point is say, ¨Play ball!¨ (As in soccer, of course, not baseball).

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Lucas Balboa at MFShow Madrid blew us all away. Starting off the show with British bells chiming, visions of London fog dancing in our heads, the first pre-war pageboy look walked the runway and immediately turned heads. The Balboa collection is for the most gentlemanly of all gentleman.

Going for vintage look looks can tough, but Balboa pulled it off with grace. Capes, hats, blanket-shawls…all of these dapper Savile Row-inspired fashions were decidely on point, and amazingly enough, came from a Canary Islands-based designer, a solid five-hour flight from London. Whereas the inspiration lay in the past, the looks were still modern, as sassy models strutted the runway with funky jewelry (from innovative designer Jesus de Miguel) and deep stares.

Oversize bowties and glasses accessorized the collection, and hats in every shape, color and form were spotted as well. Three-piece suits, tweed, herringbone and modern printed shiny blazers wowed the crowds. Rich oxbloods and warm browns made us crave autumn 2016 already…”is it here yet?” Refined and classic, get your hands on a Balboa piece somehow, someway.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Fox Haus at MFShow Madrid was light and airy, and actually gave us more of a spring feel rather than autumn. However, pajamas are needed in every season, and these comfortable, relaxed designs would are a great way for gentleman to be fashionable while they lounge about the house or sleep.

Linen button-ups were paired with boxer shorts for an interesting combo. Robes and floaty pajama pants with ties walked the runway, and we saw various kitschy prints as well. Grey seems to be the color of choice for sleepwear this fall, and it works in the form of robes, boxer shorts, relaxed fit pajama pants and comfy shirts. The concept of layering a robe over a button up, collared shirt seems to be a new one in the world of sleepwear, and I suppose we’ll soon see if this style becomes the norm. It seems like as of late the lines between activewear, sleepwear and daywear have blended, and one may predict we’ll soon be seeing more of this for men. In any case, pick up some sleepwear from Fox Haus this fall.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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