Duchamp at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Duchamp’s AW16 showcase, titled ‘Code London’, focused on five key notions of dress for the modern London man: ‘Creative Business’, ‘Tonal Layers’, ‘Innovative Texture’, ‘Winter Florals’ and ‘Artistic Features’. These concepts eschew the stiff, bland nature of traditional city wear, in favour of a more artful approach.

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The theme was evident throughout the collection – a colour block jacket in burgundy and black was shown alongside moiré-weave tailoring and a statement floral-print blazer in appealing shades of blue and white.

A clever combination of textures, fabrics and patterns prevailed, with cotton and silk shirts layered under wool jackets woven using distorted threads. Bloom-print shirting, discreet woodgrain stripes and pronounced checks furthered a sense of sophisticated eccentricity – a Duchamp design signature.

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Geometric jacquard and dip-dyed silk scarves added interest and erudition to the suiting, alluding to the concept of ‘Artistic Features’ – the idea that men use accessories to express their creative character.

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For a label that built a reputation on a use of bold colours and patterns, it runs the risk of straying into garish territory, but under creative director Gianni Colarossi, its sartorial calling cards are used in an intelligent and considered manner. The dynamic AW16 collection is a welcome respite in a formalwear world dominated by muted tones and unassuming prints.

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Posted by Aryton Reeves and photos from Duchamp.

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Hardy Amies at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

In a marked departure from last season’s futurist feel, head of design Darren Barrowcliff took Hardy Amies back to its roots for a lesson in quiet Savile Row elegance.

The AW16 presentation, held in the polished surrounds of the Mayfair Arts Club, showcased a mix of masculine tailoring with a slightly casual spin that the inimitable Mr Amies himself would have been proud to don.

Highlights included a belted alpaca car coat in a cognac herringbone cloth and a charcoal double-breasted checked two-piece. Black tie dressing was given a modern revamp with a dinner suit jacket crafted in cognac cashmere – a refreshing alternative to traditional black.

Colours and patterns were low-key and timeless – navy, black and charcoal accompanied earthier shades of camel, cognac and soft mink. A dash of salt and pepper, check and herringbone were thrown in for good measure. Fabrics had an unashamed plushness with premiums wools, cashmere and alpaca cloths all part of the assortment.

A discreet hint of utility detail was provided in the form of cargo pockets sewn onto wool trousers, whilst fine-wale cord slacks and ribbed wool beanies added a nonchalant touch.

It was a thoroughly British selection that felt appropriate to the way men dress now – both refined and enduring, with a practical ability to dress up or down for any occasion.

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Posted by Ayrton Reeves and photos from Hardy Amies.

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Sean Suen at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Sean Suen wowed at the final day of London Collections: Men. The designs were boxy and modern, covered with embellishments like metal buttons and zippers. The coats were unlike any other we’d seen thus far at LC:M, with the added detailing and colorblocked lines. Pants ranged from baggy to skinny and many of the looks featured leather trousers, pairing well underneath the oversize, boxy coats. The occasional touch of plaid kept up with the current trends, but the looks themselves were quite original, a welcome change from the sameness we’d witnessed thus far in London for AW16.

Suen plays a bit with a military theme, with tan and green, buttons and plaques set along shoulders, but still, something feels alternative about the line and non-conformist, which BDMOTP finds to be a real feat this day in age.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

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Diego Vanassibara at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Enter room. See footwear suspended in chains. Cue intrigue.

Yup, that’s pretty much how things go every season with the talented and illustrious Diego Vanasibarra shoe collection. For AW16, expect to swim in a sea of metal: studes and chains, ropes and handcuffs…no this isn’t a Ludacris song, it’s actually just a tasteful, futuristic take on shoes. And well, we love it.

The collection is aptly named Hoist, and let me tell you that none of Vanassibara’s intricate details nor impeccable tailoring is lost in such a sassy and urban new collection. In fact, his signature wood shoe panels can still be found if you look closely enough, mixed in so perfectly with the metal studding that you’d think silver and wood came from the same plant.

The hottest new thing in the interior design world is mixing wood and metal. People are decorating their homes with both, juxtaposing these two elements to create intrigue and wonder. Mixing wood, leather and metal means mixing soft with hard and rough with smooth. If it works in home, why wouldn’t it work on your feet? And let me assure you, it certainly does work—Hoist gives men a new way to express themselves. Men can be strong and tough, but also soft and vulnerable in a Vanassibara Hoist shoe.

Loafters, oxfords, boots and even casual slip-ons can be found with the metal embellishments and there is a shoe, sandal or boot to properly suit every occasion.  Vanassibara pushed the limits with Hoist, and we can’t wait to wear a pair.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Louis Leeman at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Luxe is the best word to describe the Louis Leeman AW16 collection. Covered in rich fabrics like velvet, sequins, tribal patterns or embellishments, each Leeman shoe had a glamorous feel, even the casual gym shoe or slip-ons. Each shoe outdid the last, and no shoe was left untouched or embellished!

Crocodile skins, gems and chains adorned the footwear, and there was plenty of casual (however, even the most casual had a bit of glam) and dressy looks to choose from. The footwear had a warm and wintery feel–cozy and comforting. A winter scene was even depicted on one of the shoes as a pattern, making us yearn for snowy nights by the fireplace in a pair of Leeman loafers.

You could lounge in a mountain cabin in a pair of Leeman shoes. You could hit the town in a pair of Leeman shoes. You could casually spend a wintery day holiday shopping in a pair of Leeman shoes. This collection is so inclusive, you could do just about anything in a pair of Leemans!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

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Barbour at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Casual and functional urban style was a key element in Barbour’s AW16  collection. Puffy jackets, windbreakers and rain trenches were in full form. Ski hats and circle scarves complemented the wintery looks. Boots and pea coats also made an appearance. However, the collection wasn’t just about being comfortable and functional. The clothes were stylish and trendy, and the ski hats and layers gave it a bit of hipster vibe. Deviating from the jewel tone color scheme we’ve seen time and again for the AW16 runways, this collection also offered taupe, goldish yellow and bright red.

The line was wearable for any man, but especially one ready to brave the elements or travel the world next season! (In fact, traveling bags and backpacks complemented many of the looks as well. Perhaps we see a new trend emerging here…a travel-themed AW2016!?).

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Darrel Hunter.

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E. Tautz at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

On LC:M day two at E.Tautz, Patrick Grant took us on a nostalgic trip back to the 80s roller disco, with a collection dubbed ‘Coasters’. Since the label’s revival in 2009, it has earned a solid reputation for idiosyncratic silhouettes and Savile Row-grade cloths, and this collection delivered on both counts.

Raglan sleeves, drop shoulders and oversized silhouettes reminiscent of retro sportswear were key defining features. Outerwear was the star of the show: double-breasted wool trenches with exaggerated epaulettes, cashmere-blend bombers and polished track tops were cut in louche, soft-shouldered profiles. A charcoal Donegal and mohair V-neck knit was a tribute to the iconic Gabicci jumpers donned by the bright young things of Edinburgh’s Tollcross roller disco. Voluminous tees and Henley tops with an exquisitely fluid drape were tucked into high-waisted pleated trousers, giving a distinctly artful flavour to the lineup.

AW16’s offering is a more sedate and refined interpretation of the Eighties styling that inspired it – a reimagined take on the youth dressing of a decade of excess, that showcases the polish and craftsmanship we’ve come to expect from Grant. The result is a collection that feels erudite, a touch Bohemian and utterly wearable – the perfect fit for the cultured 21st century gent.

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Posted by Ayrton Reeves and photos from Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com.

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Baartman and Siegel at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Walking into the Baartman and Siegel collection at London Collections: Men was like strolling through 1970’s Harlem. Conveniently, the FW16 collection was entitled Harlem 76: Ask For Clarence. With the styling to a T, the long-haired hippie-like male and female models posed in the basement of the Victoria house looking superfly in their luxe 70s outfits.

Obviously, the brown family of colors was the main focal point of this collection with a smattering of grey too. Tweed coats, suede, suits, plaids, bold-ish big sunglasses and trench coats layered on top were just a few of the trends spotted. The females sported what really seemed to be almost androgynous houndstooth/herringbone and pinstripe suits, but with their big hair, sassy stares and sunglasses, they still looked feminine. However, a male could sport these looks easily and look quite dapper. Shearling wool collars and fur were also key elements in this 70s-inspired collection.

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

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Chester Barrie at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Chester Barrie conveniently showed their luxe AW2016 collection on the very night of the Golden Globes. Considering most of the Barrie looks were red carpet ready, it was a perfect coincidence: all stars aligned. The Palm Court room at the Hilton hotel dripped with light and opulence, setting the perfect scene for the event.

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The glamorous collection featured dapper gentleman models sporting a variety of looks, some with details like the Kensington style cut, which features blazers with shawl collar and curved front. Vintage glamour, anyone?

BDMOTP especially loved the new patterned silk jackets (the silk is actually made in the UK especially for Chester Barrie). The overcoats in plaids and tweets were distinctly British. 

Chester Barrie AW16 presentation

Wandering around viewing the collection, you may have felt you were at a black-tie wedding or even the Golden Globes, as perfect models, well-dressed attendees and even mannequins sported luxury looks. Jewel tones were prevalent, deep greens and reds and of course, a few classic tweed coats. An oxblood red suit was hidden behind the masses in the back on a mannequin and BDMOTP can’t help but feel it would be an absolutely perfect color to complete almost any skintone or hair color. An appearance by British model David Gandy gave the event a true red carpet feel.

BDMOTP favorite: velvet blazer, oxblood suit

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos from Chester Barrie.

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James Long at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

James Long showed a super modern collection this season at London Collections: Men. The line was focused on things people actually wear: tracksuits, sweats, jeans etc. The jackets were definitely a highlight of the collection and varied in style. Puffer jackets with metal embellishments or shearling wool collars, pockets dominated the collection.

Distressed denim—ripped, heated, painted and dyed was also a unique addition to the collection. Stripes and mixing prints were also common themes. And to top it all off, all the looks were paired with Christian Louboutin boots, which perfectly fitted the designs.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from James Long.

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