Duchamp’s AW16 showcase, titled ‘Code London’, focused on five key notions of dress for the modern London man: ‘Creative Business’, ‘Tonal Layers’, ‘Innovative Texture’, ‘Winter Florals’ and ‘Artistic Features’. These concepts eschew the stiff, bland nature of traditional city wear, in favour of a more artful approach.
The theme was evident throughout the collection – a colour block jacket in burgundy and black was shown alongside moiré-weave tailoring and a statement floral-print blazer in appealing shades of blue and white.
A clever combination of textures, fabrics and patterns prevailed, with cotton and silk shirts layered under wool jackets woven using distorted threads. Bloom-print shirting, discreet woodgrain stripes and pronounced checks furthered a sense of sophisticated eccentricity – a Duchamp design signature.
Geometric jacquard and dip-dyed silk scarves added interest and erudition to the suiting, alluding to the concept of ‘Artistic Features’ – the idea that men use accessories to express their creative character.
For a label that built a reputation on a use of bold colours and patterns, it runs the risk of straying into garish territory, but under creative director Gianni Colarossi, its sartorial calling cards are used in an intelligent and considered manner. The dynamic AW16 collection is a welcome respite in a formalwear world dominated by muted tones and unassuming prints.
Posted by Aryton Reeves and photos from Duchamp.