The Berthold SS17 collection at London Collections: Men was all about geometrics. Clean, straight lines and bold colors among black and white. Sharp, strong, minimalist looks that played with asymmetrical lines and volume were present in most of the looks.

Different styles and cuts of jackets were present in many of the looks as well, giving men options for spring outerwear. Long to medium trenches, zippers, blazer-style closures or shorter jackets were all present. The most important take-away is that the jacket for SS17 is ever-present.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from the Berthold Press Office by Willem Jaspert.

The Qasimi SS17 collection was all about fabric and layers. In each varying color scheme, a minimalist look, then something a bit more substantial followed by baggy pants and layers on top, including light coats, offering up various trends to mix and match.

The line was inspired by the Gulf War and politics, and we do see this reflected in the desert colors of the garments. BDMOTP especially liked the long jackets and trenches layered over the baggier, lighter garments.

This collection is all about savoring the key pieces and incorporating them into your wardrobe.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Qasimi Press Office.

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Traveling Brits at Private White V.C. for SS17.

As usual, Private White V.C. showed a cool collection of contemporary, casual menswear, complete with a visit from British model David Gandy and an appearance from the brand spokesperson spokespuppy, the adorable Private White dog.

We love these clothes and this dog.

We love these clothes and this dog.

The SS17 collection was focused on the concept of a traveling gentleman: one that wants to look dapper while being comfortable and of course, using fabrics that travel and wash well for the ultimate convenience. A small new capsule collection, Ventile, included items like bags and hats, cashmere sweaters and jersey knits.

BDMOTP especially loved the lightness and practicality of the whole collection. With many being avid travelers this day in age, garments which one can look casual yet stylish in, that are lightweight and soft are absolutely ideal, especially for spring and summer weather.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Private White V.C. Press Office.

CMMN SWDN presents Market Rodeo SS17, inspired by a recent trip the two designers took to Morocco. The browns, honey and beige tones used represent the exotic desert air and spices. The mix of stripes and solids, plaids and tones gives off the feel of a chaotic, busy whirlwind, not unlike a day at the market in Morocco.

The collection seems to also have a very vintage feel, a distinct 70’s glow about it, and slim models worked the leather jackets and mesh shirts like none other.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from CMMN Press.

Oliver Spencer strikes again at London Collections: Men with his minimalist collection inspired by the Italian island of Capri (in particular, a beautiful Italian home, the Casa Malaparte) and as per usual, hit the nail on the head. His sleek lines and Mediterranean fabrics encompass a relaxed, yet high-end style that any gentleman would want to sport for SS17.

Fabric choices this season included silk, cotton, linen, merino and nylon and color pops come out in red among the grey, navy, cream and honey laid back staple colors. Stripes, plaids and colorblocking made soft appearances on the runway as well. Jackets in all shapes, sizes and colors, including the long trench were spotted as well.

Once outfitted in Oliver Spencer’s designs, a trip to Capri is most certainly in order.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Oliver Spencer.

On the occasion of  the summer 2016 Capsule Collection launch for Agnès B in London with designer Jerome Pierre.

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Hi Jerome, it’s an honor to be able to do a small Q & A for BDMOTP, we adore the mini collection. You must be damn proud to be working with Agnès and her famous team of course and we love the classy stylish and simple looks of the collection. Here are a few small questions so that our readers can find themselves not only in your clothes but also in your thoughts and concepts of designer and creator.

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BDMOTPColors. We notice your Berlin influences in that Gothic noire in the collection. Is that true? 

JP: It’s funny but I associate Berlin with grey – more than black. I’ve been addicted to black for many years now. I think it has more to do with the all-encompassing quality of this ‘color’. So Berlin isn’t so much an influence in this regard, but rather a place where I most often spot people who perfectly master the art of black – in a very sleek, very chic manner… not so much gothic-y.  In this collection, we used a lot of blue-blacks, which have a very modern quality; but in general, I’m rather fond of true, dark blacks. I’ve been using faded blacks in the past but I find them quite unmanageable when it comes to matching garments together.

BDMOTP: We also notice Nordic minimalism in your design. You find simplicity more elegant? 

JP: I’m a minimalist at heart and have always been fascinated by how Swedish fashion enthusiasts make a basic look so interesting. It’s a work of subtlety. Much of it stems from the cut. And yes, I truly believe that elegance and simplicity very often walk hand in hand. In life as in fashion.

BDMOTP: Yet your collection is super chic but without the retro we so often see these days on the runways. French chic. So very contrasted with the German simplicity. Do we see that correctly?

JP: Simple and chic are rarely at odds. This collection very much expresses my inclination towards a certain formality, a sense of quiet decorum, but worn with the utmost comfort, with serenity. Someone within Agnès’ team deemed the products ‘casual mais très soir’. I loved this depiction. I want to design, wear, and enjoy formal elegance in an easy, warm and welcoming way.

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BDMOTP: Then we notice the signature of ‘l’endroit à l’envers’ à la Hermès in the collection. A touch of class for sure. What is a man’s ultimate interest (as we are a mens’ blog) in having the inside of his wardrobe collection look better than the outside? 

JP: The graphic side of the collection took more and more meaning and importance throughout the development of this capsule. And there was a real message attached to the all-over pattern – a positive one we hoped (see answer below). So it mattered to me that every piece, as much as realistically possible, was infused with this message. I also think the inside of a garment – especially a man’s garment – is the true place where a designer sends a message to the person who might ultimately wear the garment. It is there that the most genuine intention resides, the outside being often somewhat ruled by the many codes applying to menswear.

BDMOTP: As a guiding concept for the collection you chose architectural fluidity in the mode of Zaha Hadid?  We love it.  Where in your design do we look for this fluidity?  How would you define this fluidity in fashion as a conceptual art as opposed to architecture?

JP: An important axis of this capsule was to develop sartorial pieces that could be worn in a new, different manner: Very liberated and to a degree of comfort that would make you forget what you are wearing. Sartorial chic is always very appealing, but more often than not, the suit wears the man, and not the other way around. So we tailored the pieces in a way that kept all the appeal, but without the constraints of a stuffy structure within. Take a look at the first runway look in motion. The model is undeniably wearing a suit, but his movements are completely free and the structure moves around the movements with noticeable fluidity. Fashion is functional to a much more specific degree than architecture. People work their way within and around a building. Garments must and should work their way around people’s movements.

BDMOTP: We notice the unfolding flag or road as a signature for the collection. What precisely is its meaning?  The unfolding road which leads to new opportunities and new moments? It reminds of Walt Whitman’s famous line:

“Afoot and light hearted I take to the open road, the long lone road before me, leading wherever I chose.”

Does this describe your collection?

JP: This is a beautiful quote. To be more specific, the spirit of this print is a bit more Eckhart Tolle than Walt Whitman. The idea was to symbolize the Thought, and invite people to let their thoughts fly away, give their thinking mind a rest, from time to time – much in the idea of meditation. I also like the idea of creating a computerized print, using a random factor – much in the way of what the process of creation really is: Intention within circumstances.

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BDMOTP: What are the ‘noble’ materials you worked with for this collection, and why did you chose them?

JP: I enjoy working with sartorial fabrics and drapery. Besides the suit and pants, I selected a techno-wool for the light ‘bombers jacket’ and the raincoat. It stems for drapery but the wool has been mixed with modern fibers to give it a functional dimension (water-repellant for example).

BDMOTP: Who do you think is the Best Dressed Man on the Planet, or in other words, which man would you say would best be fitted and styled in your Capsule Collection so that he is the best dressed man on the planet?

JP: I truly don’t have a ‘living’ answer for this question right now. The closest I can get to a relevant answer, would be to hint towards Vincent Freeman (the character portrayed by Ethan Hawk in Gattaca (1997)) – for what he embodies within the über-modern set of the movie, much more than what he looks like.

Ethan Hawk as Vincent Freeman in 1997.

Ethan Hawk as Vincent Freeman in 1997.

All pictures by press agent of Agnès B/Jerome Pierre except Gattaca.

Interview by Sandro for BDMOTP

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There is something seriously dark and brooding about the Songzio shows, but also something seriously stylish and beautiful. Comes to mind the film cult classic called Interview With the Vampire, to give you somewhat of an impression. And aye, of course the setting of such a show would need to be appropriate as indeed throughout cosmopolitan centers in the world it seems that abandoned industrial railway, railroad, and railyard emplacements serve as the prime real estate and venue, and as the perfect backdrop for fashion shows the world over – if not for the urban exclusivity of it all, then perhaps for an ambiance that today’s buildings can no longer convey: Red bricks and steel in a show called Vermillon.

It’s that sulfuric red, deep down red sometimes called scarlet by mistake, but which in essence is nothing less but cinnabar, the elusive metal of yore, which, in English, since the year 1289 is called Vermilion. In India, where the color is much used in buildings and clothes, it is called Sindoor.

So sir Zio Song, designer extraordinaire from Korea, and Governor of the Asian Couture Foundation, knows of course precisely what is he doing, and precisely what ambiance to create. Because here we find a grand old master in the sartorial arts. The dark brooding in shades of black set on Vampire Red and then some only work because the cuts and designs are traditional and those of high class. This is high sartorial art. And in the process lamb leathers and oil paints are used, which are then put together in unison with both synthetic and natural fibers. That the results are quite stunning and memorable you will see from our slideshow below.

Perhaps that we need more urban abandoned railyard warehouses made from cinnabar bricks in this world so that Songzio can raise yet more beautiful vampires from the dead.

For it’s a pleasure!

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Posted by Sandro and photos from the Songzio press.

Duchamp’s AW16 showcase, titled ‘Code London’, focused on five key notions of dress for the modern London man: ‘Creative Business’, ‘Tonal Layers’, ‘Innovative Texture’, ‘Winter Florals’ and ‘Artistic Features’. These concepts eschew the stiff, bland nature of traditional city wear, in favour of a more artful approach.

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The theme was evident throughout the collection – a colour block jacket in burgundy and black was shown alongside moiré-weave tailoring and a statement floral-print blazer in appealing shades of blue and white.

A clever combination of textures, fabrics and patterns prevailed, with cotton and silk shirts layered under wool jackets woven using distorted threads. Bloom-print shirting, discreet woodgrain stripes and pronounced checks furthered a sense of sophisticated eccentricity – a Duchamp design signature.

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Geometric jacquard and dip-dyed silk scarves added interest and erudition to the suiting, alluding to the concept of ‘Artistic Features’ – the idea that men use accessories to express their creative character.

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For a label that built a reputation on a use of bold colours and patterns, it runs the risk of straying into garish territory, but under creative director Gianni Colarossi, its sartorial calling cards are used in an intelligent and considered manner. The dynamic AW16 collection is a welcome respite in a formalwear world dominated by muted tones and unassuming prints.

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Posted by Aryton Reeves and photos from Duchamp.

In a marked departure from last season’s futurist feel, head of design Darren Barrowcliff took Hardy Amies back to its roots for a lesson in quiet Savile Row elegance.

The AW16 presentation, held in the polished surrounds of the Mayfair Arts Club, showcased a mix of masculine tailoring with a slightly casual spin that the inimitable Mr Amies himself would have been proud to don.

Highlights included a belted alpaca car coat in a cognac herringbone cloth and a charcoal double-breasted checked two-piece. Black tie dressing was given a modern revamp with a dinner suit jacket crafted in cognac cashmere – a refreshing alternative to traditional black.

Colours and patterns were low-key and timeless – navy, black and charcoal accompanied earthier shades of camel, cognac and soft mink. A dash of salt and pepper, check and herringbone were thrown in for good measure. Fabrics had an unashamed plushness with premiums wools, cashmere and alpaca cloths all part of the assortment.

A discreet hint of utility detail was provided in the form of cargo pockets sewn onto wool trousers, whilst fine-wale cord slacks and ribbed wool beanies added a nonchalant touch.

It was a thoroughly British selection that felt appropriate to the way men dress now – both refined and enduring, with a practical ability to dress up or down for any occasion.

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Posted by Ayrton Reeves and photos from Hardy Amies.

Sean Suen wowed at the final day of London Collections: Men. The designs were boxy and modern, covered with embellishments like metal buttons and zippers. The coats were unlike any other we’d seen thus far at LC:M, with the added detailing and colorblocked lines. Pants ranged from baggy to skinny and many of the looks featured leather trousers, pairing well underneath the oversize, boxy coats. The occasional touch of plaid kept up with the current trends, but the looks themselves were quite original, a welcome change from the sameness we’d witnessed thus far in London for AW16.

Suen plays a bit with a military theme, with tan and green, buttons and plaques set along shoulders, but still, something feels alternative about the line and non-conformist, which BDMOTP finds to be a real feat this day in age.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

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