Dunhill’s new creative director, Mark Weston has officially taken the rains, and the collection comes as such, presenting both looks for Autumn 2017 and Spring 2018 all in one. Coming from Burberry, BDMOTP was excited to see what turn Weston would take the dunhill brand in.

After carefully checking out the collections, BDMOTP has deduced that dunhill has seemed to stay fairly true to their roots despite new direction. Crisp, dapper suits, impeccably tailored, take the reins of the collection. Perfect for that English gentleman (or wannabe) heading to work, this suits are made to fit and line the body perfectly — none of the oversize, baggy pants and tunics we’ve seen from other designers this week at London Fashion Week Mens.

For after-work and weekends, there’s some overcoats and trenches, and for fall, some down vests and coats, making comfort and warmth a key feature. But style is never given up for the sake of comfort with dunhill — both factors are equally important. Vertical stripes and mohair make solid appearances. Most of the colors fall within the basic realm, but we do see light pops of blue and pink, never straying too far, of course, from the trusty grey, beige, navy and black. The garments seem to be in style, but more importantly, we see a focus on quality materials and good fit — those values have always been important at dunhill. Accessories come in the form of soft leather briefcases and weekender bags.

dunhill calls this a revolution. We simply call it good fashion.

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For their SS18 collection at London Fashion Week Mens, Tourne de Transmission brought us The Lies That Bind. 

The collection primarily consisted of oversize layers. Interestingly enough, the concept was taken from Sigmund Freud’s book Propaganda and it seemed as if the line was more of a rebellion against politics and what’s going on in the world. The brand explains, “there is a layer, a veneer on life, that we are not made to see through.” Perhaps this was the literal inspiration for the many layers you’ll see within the collection, as literal seemed to be the name of the game in this line.

Another literal translation can be found in the outerwear. The designer talks about how there’s so much transparency today withing media and politics and to reflect those “lies,” the collection has many transparent materials layered over others. We see asymmetric vest lengths and very long blazers…an interesting take on future office wear. Colors stuck mainly in the black and grey range, but pops of orange brightened this up for spring. The looks were paired with all-purpose, weatherproof backpacks and various styles of sandals and gym shoes. We even spotted socks and sandals, which, is one of the original fashion faux pas. Fingers crossed that fashion concept won’t be resurfacing in SS18, or pretty much ever, but we’ll make sure you’re the first to know if it does.

Other trends for SS18 include scarves, baggy sleeves and the concept of deconstruction, which we sincerely hope, isn’t also a direct reflection on society today.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Isabel Infantes/PR Wire.

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It seems like it’s all about natural fibers these days, and Phoebe English Man is no different. For SS18, it seems like everyone at London Fashion Week Mens was all about the natural look and feel. Phoebe English Man was right on trend with bright hues of blue among other basic colors in their capsule collection, with garments created from natural and ecologic fabric. This collection was all about wearable, comfortable items with a stylish twist. Of course, as many other brands are now doing, the collection is made entirely in the UK from start to finish.

The collection included comfortable, loose-fitting track pants and button up shirts as well as trench coats and bomber jackets. Long tunics layered over baggy pants and shorts underneath belted jackets proved that SS18 will give us yet another season of layers. External seams lined many of the garments and some even had some patchwork, blocking details.

These oversize garments are all about comfort, and while definitely being trendy, most of these looks aren’t traditionally what men will be wearing to the office anytime soon. Then again, who knows what office wear will look like in the future anyway. With more and more people using co-working spaces and working from home, perhaps jogger bottoms and tunics will soon be the new business suits. In any case, we look forward to trying on some of these intense blue garments, and let’s hope that color keeps trending for SS18. As London Fashion Mens wears on, we’ll soon find out.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Neil Mason from Phoebe English Man.

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This is as good as it gets. London, it’s from the summer of 2016, one secretive photoshoot, with no press or people present. Only a stylist and a photographer. And thus the reason we would keep this masterpiece from you until now the pictures having become available only as of recently on PGS radar. Thus this Alexander McQueen ‘Swinging London’ collection was never presented on the runway, nor in any other form of presentation with only a select few magazines given copies. These photos are all you can see and all you can get.

McQueen: Mad, bad, and dangerous to know

McQueen: Mad, bad, and dangerous to know.

It’s Only Rock ‘n Roll, and I Like It – because this grand collection is as Imperial British as you will ever see. For the style spells the Rolling Stones, when they were still under the magic spell of sitar-hero (no, not guitar hero) Brian Jones in the late sixties, and it spells the Beatles at the time of the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Heart Club Band when the band by 1966 had grown weary of live performance and had moved into the studio. A style which has no shame of old-empire patterns featuring hummingbirds and leopards – or sunflowers – in paisley psychedelic or in embroidered gold.

Thus what is unusual here is that we have a magic photoshoot by a photographer (Julia Hetta) and the work of a stylist (Alister Mackie), who, moving into the studio with the assignment to work on an old Empire collection for Alexander McQueen, have created this collection only for the camera – having grown weary of live performances perhaps.

Faded, jaded Persian or Kashmir carpets as a backdrop – this old glamour look-book is so very British, so brutally imperial, that we could scant imagine Alistair Crowley smoking an opium pipe while trekking on a donkey in the Himalayas, or Rudyard Kipling sipping tea in his favorite lodge down in Mumbai. Here we find the vivid stuff of pipedreams, in the crimson and carmine colors of the gardens of Shalimar, and in full decorated regalia, from post-modern steampunk jewelry, to stiff-upper-lip military braids and broaches, to embroideries fit for forgotten princelings in Kashmir who just love silly frock coats in sharp cuts because it makes them look, well, aye, so very, very British.

Babylon at its best.

For this hardcore rocky British imperial romanticism is made of the fine things and accessories which would have made Lord Byron proud, Byronic being perhaps the one apt adjective that seems to fit the Alexander McQueen SS17 collection called ‘Swinging London’ with one single word. Or as people would say of Byron – mad, bad, and dangerous to know …

Alexander McQueen will be back on the runway in the fall of 2017.

Words by Sandro and photos by Alexander McQueen via GPS Radar.

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One of BDMOTP’s favorite British fashion brands, dunhill, has announced they’ve hired a new creative director, Mark Weston. Some of his vision for the brand will be shown as part of the Autumn Winter 2017 collection at London Fashion Week: Men’s this June, which BDMOTP will surely have an opportunity to check out (and report back, of course).

Mark Weston, the new creative director of dunhill. Photo from dunhill.

Mark Weston, the new creative director of dunhill. Photo from dunhill.

Mark Weston comes to dunhill from the brand Burberry, and his goal is to bring a classic yet relevant design aesthetic to the brand. The brand itself dates back to 1893 and not only creates menswear clothing but also delves into fun accessories that yet again, remind us what it means to be a Brit.

Dunhill's chic leather goods. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

Dunhill’s chic leather goods. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

BDMOTP has always been a fan of dunhill’s British bespoke designs. In fact, we love the brand for gifts. With Father’s Day coming up, the accessories like flasks, keychains, money clips, vintage lighters and even Backgammon sets make for great gifts. Let’s hope Mark Weston doesn’t plan to get rid of any of their fabulous accessories (or dapper, preppy jackets, bowties and printed shirts either). Or their chic leather goods, which BDMOTP especially loves in the form of wallets and change holders. In any case, we look forward to see what Mark Weston will bring to this iconic English brand.

A preppy look from dunhill. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

A preppy look from dunhill. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos as specified in caption.

That it’s relevant we know from the press release and it is interesting to note that relevancy has become a catch-all phrase for yet the latest quality urban chic high end homme collection, but it is well put indeed because in order to stay relevant today, you also will have to be able to keep setting the trend, from season to season, from social media to media, and from city to city.

So ladies & gentlemen: enter Cottweiler – originating on Savile Row since 2012 as a new sartorial concept homme creation by designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty from England.

The designers.

The designers.

The other reason that it is relevant is because today when you launch a brand you need to be already accomplished.

Note therefore that Cottweiler works with a litany of performing artists in the music and entertainment industry as stylists and is currently spicing and sprucing up Reebok to get on the nearside (or should we say far side) of what is considered high end or quality wear (Adidas and others are trying to get their too with capsule collections featuring the latest designers).

But that is not all. Because you can actually find their collections as well in some modern art museums in England, Germany and beyond. Yes, that is right, fashion design is a modern art. And as such we should not fail to mention that Cottweiler has won prizes with Louis Vuitton, the British Fashion Council, and with Woolmark recently. The still add to this an exclusive and selective list of high end stockists in a limited number of countries and the picture is complete. Cottweiler ready to launch.

All relevancy comes at a price.

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Words by Sandro and photos from Cottweiler.

Minimalist designer Qasimi shows his Middle Eastern-inspired collection for AW17/18 at London Fashion Week Men’s. Walking the delicate line between pajamas fit for a prince and underground street wear, Qasimi’s collection, characterized by straight, simple line and long, floating scarves was a breath of fresh air for the coming season.

From pale pink robes to chartreuse turtlenecks, the colors and basic shapes of the collection immediately catch the eye. Outerwear in sheepskin, leather and knit covered the looks, and all were paired with slippers, again, giving us that desert nomad vibe.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Qasimi.

Songzio, a South Korean brand showed their AW17/18 collection entitled “Misanthrope” at London Fashion Week Men’s. The clothes take on a sartorial vision of traditional suits and fancy style, with Songzio’s Paint on Black look, where the designer paints on his pieces. Long trenches and oversize outerwear are an important part of the collection, and nothing seems to stray far from grey, black and brown, except for the occasional pop of orange.

An interesting take on ties should be noted, extra skinny or extra wide. Layered leather with knits, flashes of velvet and the occasional hat walked the runway as well.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Songzio.

Blood Brother showed their AW17/18 collection “Thames” at London Fashion Week Men’s, inspired by the underground subculture of the British Thames river. They consider themselves to design “men’s sartorial sportswear,” another designer added to the list of many British brands catering towards a shift in fashion away from the Savile Row suits and towards a more urban streetwear style.

The looks are modern and contemporary, using straight lines and black and navy with pops of bright orange. Long scarves, baseball hats and metal embellishments on belts and suspenders added detail.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Blood Brother.

Kent & Curwen is distinctly British. The AW17/18 collection, created by Daniel Kearns and British soccer star David Beckham at London Fashion Week Men’s focuses on outerwear. Featuring coats in every shape and style, BDMOTP is particularly drawn to the longer and shearling-lined coats, perfect for a chilly winter. Bomber jackets and blazers are for fall, and the army-green coats layered over blazers and shirts are appropriate for those blustery November days when you just don’t know what to put on.

Daniel Kearns and David Beckham at the Kent & Curwen show.

Daniel Kearns and David Beckham at the Kent & Curwen.

Their take on the military trend includes long, wool overcoats with gold buttons (if Beckham’s wearing it, we want it) and the aforementioned army green jackets. These take on that vintage feel but are still modern enough to feel relevant. Continuing with outerwear, warm knit scarves and pageboy caps complete many of the looks. There’s also an Ivy League feel to the collection, as one might see a student and Princeton or Yale sporting a button up sweater with a motif pocket or patched blazer.

The pieces are casual yet elegant and could be worn to work, on campus or for a weekend brunch or dinner out on the town. There’s something for every man in this collection, holding true to their English roots but still appealing to an international customer.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Kent & Curwen.

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