During London Collecions: Men, there are lots of mini-showrooms set up for press and buyers to pass through and check out some collections.  We were able to see a variety of designers in these two showrooms: The Hospital Club and Victoria House

Hospital Club Visits

We started at the Hospital Club where we loved Universal Works, and Jaewan Park.

Universal Works had an entirely pink line!  It was very different and original and the interesting counterpart is that everything ALSO comes in navy.

Universal Works Universal Works

Jaewan Park had some fabulous and very original blazers and jackets.  They included different kinds of layers, an unexpected twist like a single breasted jacket that appears to be double breasted or other subtle details.  This line is architecturally and visually stimulating.

Jaewan Park Blazer

Jaewan Park

Victoria House Visits

We enjoyed stopping to see Marwood and Diego Vanassibara´s collections at the Victoria House.

Marwood definitely has the gold when it comes to accessories.  Beautifully tailored ties, pocket squares, bow ties and more are Marwood´s specialties.

Marwood (4) Marwood (2)

Diego Vanassibara, a BDMOTP original favorite, makes beautiful and luxurious shoes with a special wood paneling.  Click here to see his collection from last fall, and stay tuned for a more detailed separate post on his spring collection.

Diego V (2) Diego V

HUNTER GATHER

On Day 2 of London Collecions: Men, we headed over to Hunter Gather first thing in the morning  to check out their styles accompanied by breakfast.  After grabbing our daily dose of caffeine we roamed around the Hunter Gather boutique, checking out what they had to offer.  I was immediately drawn to a rack of a very bright, mint green selection of shirts.  They had several fully patterned head to toe oufits, which were fun.  They also had a fabulous pair of green jeans and a funky green drawstring closure backpack. (ahem…do we see a pattern here? Green is where it´s at!) Everyone is doing backpacks this season and this one was quite original, in contrast I´ve seen a lot of leather so it was nice to view something a bit different.

BDMOTP favorite:  Black and white patterned T-shirt with mint green color collar accent

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ORLEBAR BROWN

After Hunter Gather, we headed down over to the Orlebar Brown boutique on Sackville Street.   For SS14, “Orlebar Brown visits Monaco”.  Reanna Brown, Sales Executive with Orlebar Brown, explained to us the concept of the collection.  Monaco embodies several different styles, a regular in the yacht world, the Gran Prix race driver, a pit crew guy, and the beach goer.  Each style represents something related to Monaco, colors like blue and yellow to represent the beach, swimming trunks with a pattern of tire tracks.  Orlebar Brown likes to think their designs were wearable five years ago, are wearable now, and will be wearable  five years from now.  It´s nice to see that even as designers/brands participate in trends, they still like to keep an element of timelessness in their designs.

BDMOTP favorites: Lt. blue jacket, oxblood heathered items

2013-06-17 11.11.31 DSC_6896 Orlebar BrownOrlebar Brown (7) Orlebar Brown (10) orlebar brown

London Collections: Men Day 2 started off bright and early with  Hunter Gather and Orlebar Brown Presentations.  Following that, we were able to catch two fabulous shows, YMC (front row!) and Oliver Spencer.

YMC

This company began in 1995 and designs with the idea that form follows function.

This season for their SS14 collection, YMC presented a collection of minimal silhouettes, laid back looks with fun patterns.  Stripes and patterns were both present in the collection.  The looks were accessorized with hats, berets and sunglasses.   Colors were muted, focusing on deep green, blue and purple.  Cuffed pants and shorts were present in a majority of the looks

BDMOTP favorite: Striped blazer

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OLIVER SPENCER

When a live DJ walked to the center of the show space, I knew things were about to get very cool, very fast.  This SS14 collection was influenced by a variety of themes such as art, architecture and some of London´s underground sub-cultures.  Again…cool.  What really stood out in this collection were the coats.  Spring jackets, linen coats, all sorts of funky ways to create new shapes and silhouettes using flaps and buttons were present on this runway.

BDMOTP favorites: brimmed hats and navy jacket with brown popped collar

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JAMES LONG

Before the BDMOTP team headed to the airport, we were able to catch one morning show on Day 3: James Long.  This SS14 collection, entitled ¨Beyond the Velodrome¨ was named for and inspired by cycling.  Mesh, Lycra, zip up jackets and leather and silk bomber jackets all made an appearance.

BDMOTP favorites:  striped knit sweaters

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Posted By: Lori

Photos By: Yulia

London Collection: Men was a whirlwind scurry of shows, presentations, street style, and more.  Day 1 was intense but we were able to see a lot, and of course…we had our favorites!

Some of BDMOTP´s personal favorites from Day One were Hentsch Man and Spencer Hart.

Hentsch Man

Hentsch Man was a static presentation of models placed in a funky, artisic garage space in central London.  As guests sipped on Mexican beer and ate popcorn, they discussed the chilled-out group of models in a variety of relaxed, comfortable garments.  The Hentsch Man collection ¨We Met by Accident¨ can be described as ¨the nostalgic backwater of America¨.

Hentschman 1

The models were shaggy haired and bearded, and looked laid back and relaxed.  Cowboy hats and boots were present, as was a distinct 70´s vibe.  Native American prints, cool plaids, and faded t-shirts give a certain New Mexician desert feel.

Hentschman 2

BDMOTP especially favored this gold coat.

Hentschman Gold Coat

Spencer Hart

After Hentscham, the BDMOTP team was blown away by the Spencer Hart catwalk.  This line was elegant, spring-like, serene and just fantastic.  The main fabric present was linen, and it was used in the way of short and long shirts, blazers, jackets, pants, topcoats, shorts, scarves and more.  Every piece that walked down the runway was stylish and wearable.   We especially loved the colors: so much  navy and white, fitting for spring.

Make sure to note BDMOTP favorite, the long linen navy topcoat!

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Posted By: Lori

Flights delayed, missed my connection, got bumped from AA to BA, but eventually found my way to London to begin my European Mens Fashion Weeks tour.  The first event, London Collections Men SS14 – Day One started for me and my team at the Hentsch Man Presentation.  Casual pieces that all looked  comfortable yet rugged.  One piece in particular caught my eye, a gold jacket sported well by model Chris Chasseaud.  We are off to a good start at LCM.

Gold Jacket Hentsch Man talking to Alton

We then scurried over to the Spencer Hart runway show.  When we entered the room to the sounds of James Brown, I had a good feeling about the show.  Once they broke into Parliament Funkadelic “Knee Deep” as the show began, I knew it was on!  As I danced in my seat, I enjoyed and appreciated the entire line.  Moderately edgy yet very wearable, top to bottom.  My favorite piece was a blue linen topcoat.

Spencer Hart

Although a bit jet-lagged the shows/presentations offered just enough excitement to get me underway and through the day.

Spanish fashion brand El Ganso opened its first UK store in 2012 in the heart of most popular London shopping spot – Carnaby Street. This April they launched the second boutique on Niel street.

El Ganso collections are retro inspired by style icons of the past Marcello Mastroianni, Cary Grant, Robert Radford, they praise ‘retro man’ ideal – elegance and chic which suites every one. At the same time the brand remains thoroughly contemporary  very British with a slight Mediterranean hint.

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El Ganso’s philosophy is in offering quality and an alternative touch at a price you can afford. It has a full range of menswear, from casual to more classy: perfectly fit tartan, woolen or linen blazers, comfortable navy-style duffle coats, shirts, cardigans and jumpers, a wide range of neckwear and accessories. All items come in fun and matching colors. Here you can find perfect combo for the occasion either it’s a job interview or a Saturday night out.

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El Ganso is a family company of two brothers Álvaro and Clemente Cebrián. They started in 2006 from a small store in downtown Madrid selling trousers and shoes. Soon after they enhanced their collections with sports jackets and polo shirts and opened boutiques in Portugal, France and United Kingdom.

The store on Caranby Street brings you into the atmosphere of the 70s nostalgia, which suggests a leisurely shopping in a cozy vintage environment. The staff are very helpful and friendly, ready to give an advice and very quick on size request.

Posted By: Yulia

Qasimi, named for designer Khalid Al Qasimi, actually began as a designer for womenswear, and then switched over to making menswear. He debuted his first menswear line at Paris Menswear Week in 2009 and womenswear has been on hold ever since. His collections are now a permanent fixture at Paris Menswear Week every spring and fall.

Al Qasimi was born in United Arab Emirates but then moved to the United Kingdom at age 9. His multicultural background and upbringing led him to base his designs on architecture, art, and even socio-politcal issues.

His designs are dramatic and streamlined, and his recent collection featured leather and shearling fabrics. Volume also plays a big part in Qaisimi´s designs and he usually throws a bright color into his spring collections.

Now his clothes are available in various countries around the world, for example, Russia, China, and South Korea to name a few.

You can view more of his most recent collections and find more information at the Oasimi website or follow him on Twitter or Facebook.

These three looks are from his Fall 2013 collection and runway show.

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Qasimi 1

runway show

These next two looks are from his current spring collection runway show.

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Photos from designer´s the Website and Facebook page.

Posted by: Lori

I have always been a fan of David Bowie. I remember vividly my first encounter, watching The Labyrinth and being captivated and intrigued by King Jareth the goblin king. I was convinced that Toby would have more fun singing “magic dance” and flying than being babysat by his ungrateful sister. I’m sure it was just Bowies charismatic presence.

He is regarded as one of the most influential writers in pop culture and his demographically transcendent music has been the soundtrack to many a childhood and adult life. For over five decades he has been the pioneering pied piper leading us dancing and singing along all the while teaching us that its okay to be different. Hell, it can be even more appealing.

With the surprise release of his recent album “The Next Day”along with the “David Bowie Is” exhibition held within the V&A, we are once again reminded of his aptitude as an entertainer. The exhibition open now until the 11th of August 2013 features original costumes, handwritten lyrics, photography, fashion, music videos, set design, artwork and instruments all from his archive brought together for the very first time. It celebrates his many talents, his innovation and his continual reinvention further cementing him as a cult figure of popular culture.

Another temporary shrine to the Thin White Duke is the “David Bowie Is All Yours” pop-up store launching in Selfridges on the 4th of April. As one of the leading international fashion retailers, it seems only logical that Selfridges should celebrate this influential pop culture and fashion icon. Some of his costumes will be on display as well as selected contemporary pieces from brands, like Alexander McQueen, which reflect his unique aesthetic. There will also be other Bowie products available for purchasing.

Regardless of whether you’re as flamboyant as him and will undergo complementary Bowie makeup by Illamasqua, or whether a T-shirt or book would suffice, it’s worth any Bowie fan heading down to see.

David Bowie ¨The Next Day¨album cover

Posted by: Emma Pulbrook

Diego Vanassibara is an up-and-coming shoe designer with a fresh outlook on the typical English oxford. He handcrafts his own unique collections of shoes, boots and loafers.Diego Vanassibara

The Brazilian designer comes from an architechtural back ground. These skills, when combined with his shoemaking talent, create finished products that are aesthetically pleasing structural masterpiece. His main motivation is: ¨Give men the opportunity to dream too.¨ And men most certaintly will dream about these amazing shoes.

Diego Vanassibara´s work is extremely special because of it´s craftmanship. His work showcases exclusive wooden details hand carved onto the oxfords, boots and loafers. The hand crafted mahogany and rosewood components make for the perfect combination of a classic and modern shoe or boot.

Diego Vanassibara

The shoes are colored in a mix of earthy and dusty tones like olive and grey leather. Even better, the collection is ethical and ecological : the wood components come straight from a sustainable plantation. The shoes are clean, contemporary, comfortable, and easily combinable with a man´s wardrobe. If you are looking for something ecological, beautiful, and comfortable all in one, then Diego Vanassibara shoes are for you.

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For more information and where to purchase, visit the Diego Vanassibara Webpage. 

Posted by: Lori

Fashion is art and fashion week is the vernissage.

The reigning fashion capital, London has long been known for its creativity.  Although it is only the second season where menswear has been given its own individual platform separate from London Fashion week, London has established itself as a city with opinions worth listening to in the realm of men’s fashion.

Savile Row has long held the crown internationally for its traditional men’s style. Here on The golden mile of tailoring anyone is welcome to have a bespoke tailored suit made to perfection, provided they can foot the bill.

Re-inventing and contemporising the traditional idea of tailoring are the brands Orschel-Read, Oliver Spencer and Jaewan Park. Whether it’s Jaewan Park’s Surrealist touch or Orschel-Reads jacquard prints and bold colours, the heritage fundamentals are still present and make these brands the ideal choice for a modern day gentleman.

London Collections Menswear Jaewan Park, Orschel-Read

Jaewan Park and Orschel-Read

Oliver Spencer in particular is a master at dressing real men. While most fashion shows feature models who have entered the fountain of youth with cheek bones that could cut bullet-proof glass, his casting was far more inclusive of the varied types, and ages of men.

London Collections: Menswear

Oliver Spencer

Another brand which illustrated diversity with casting (even featuring a smartly dressed beagle) was Agi and Sam. Well known for their witty prints, colourful plaid and snappy tailoring they will be a name to remember. This season they have taken the traditional English Countryside attire, rolled it through East London and the result, bohemian aristocrat.

London Collections: Menswear

Agi and Sam

Taking inspiration from the unique personal style of John Waters, designer James Long has created an idiosyncratic take on men’s casual wear. His collection featured lavishly embellished jumpers, densely worked knits and quilted leather bomber jackets using deep yellows, greens and browns.

London Collections: Menswear

James Long

Pushing the boundaries is not something London designers are afraid of. That being said, J.W. Anderson’s collection saw the gender line and sprinted across it. A brilliantly bold collection featuring men dressed in bandeau tops, ruffled shorts and dresses also featured more wearable coats, jumpers and trousers.

London Collections: Menswear

J.W. Anderson

Orange is a colour seen in almost every collection. But for those who prefer a minimal look, Lee Roach is a designer worth noting. Buckle details on the otherwise unembellished black, white and navy collection suited the slender aesthetic. Even from a distance the focus on quality is evident.

London Collections: Menswear

Lee Roach

To summarise the second London Collections: Men’s is difficult. In London there is a constant dance between safe and unsafe, heritage and contemporary, street style and high end, yet always a focus on quality and that is why it is the fashion capital. Unlike London’s neighbours on the mainland, people aren’t afraid of fashion. Whatever your taste, London has something for you.

(All images courtesy of British Fashion Council)

Posted By: Emma Pulbrook

 

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