CBFT

London Collections: Men: Chester Barrie

Cities |  London | 

I normally associate Chester Barrie with formal wear, but excellent news: they are expanding into resort and cruisewear as well for SS15. The upstairs, more casual resortwear designs were colorful and preppy. I got a great vibe from the new collection, in fact, it made me want to sip a mojito on a yacht, or watch young men play croquet while eating garden sandwiches in Boston. Plaids, paisleys, florals and stripes adorned on summery fabrics like linen gave the line a beachy vibe. Cuffed pants and preppy boat shoes completed the looks.

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Once I headed downstairs, I got some of the more formal suiting options, dapper as per usual. Chester Barrie is capable of making any man look eloquent and perfect for any occasion.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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XZFT

London Collections: Men: Xander Zhou

Cities |  London | 

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The SS15 Xander Xhou collection is called “Hyperdrive” and its inspiration stems from gender and sexuality. This is the second designer we’ve seen here in London that has used elements reminiscent of a teenage, adolescent existence. Again, this brings us back to the 1990’s era, where teens ruled the world.

Xander Xhou is hthe first designer based in China to be given the license to use original Star Wars imagery within his designs. Now, the black-and-white futuristic space-like designs make more sense. He also uses denim, again bringing us back to those teenage years.

The coats in the collection were phenomenal, which I don’t often get to say in a spring collection, but they are long and trendy with square collars and modern imagery. The boxy shapes and cool colors resonate with everyday people. Some of the coats even had air blowers, which added a cool futuristic touch.

BDMOTP favorite: evergreen coat

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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GQFT

London Collections: Men: Sankuanz GQ China

Cities |  London |  Shanghai | 

When I got the invitation for the Sankuanz runway show, sponsored by GQ China, I knew I was in for a treat! How could a show with that invitation not be fun?

The invitation for the Sankuanz show.

The invitation for the Sankuanz show.

The show was fun and crazy, with white oufits with all sorts of writing on them in various languages. AThe prints were inspired by Russian prison tattoos from the 1940’s, and the looks are sporty and casual. The second half of the show, models walked with giant hand-pieces. Although the clothes might seem a bit extreme, having been to Asia, this type of stuff, especially paired with more basic pieces, is quite popular there, and could easily be trending in your city soon!

GQ China, having launched in 2009, plans to be part of London Collections: Men in future years, bringing new Asian designers to the British market.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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POSTED IN | Cities, London, Shanghai
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CHFT

London Collections: Men: Casely Hayford

Cities |  London | 

In the Casely Hayford SS15 collection “Art Intervention”, we see how the world of fashion is changing. The designer’s aim is to bring sportswear into formal, therefore making a casual look seem, well, not-so-casual. Pinstripes, typically a more formal look have been toned down to everyday wear, made it to coats and shirts.

The collection also features looks from the “normcore” movement, which is defined as “stylized blandness”. Really, taking something basic and making it stylish due it’s almost lack of design, perhaps the Joan Miro of the design world?

Long coats are making a comeback for SS15, and we see plenty of modern, sharp ones in this collection. The patterned jackets and blazers were also spectacular.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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JLFT

London Collections: Men: James Long

Cities |  London | 

James Long brought us back to the early 90’s for a little peek at a “modern” grunge look for his SS15 collection. The collection was inspired by elements of boxing and the “haze” of island life. Taking “city” clothes and wearing them down in a relaxed and calm atmosphere was the message the line brought across.

We still see flashes of Long’s signature stripe, and the collection is full of colorful fabrics, including abstract graffiti of the name “JAMES” printed on some shirts. Most models also had a streak of red or color in their long, shaggy hair, complete with stylish sunglasses.

BDMOTP favorite: the ripped, grunge jean jackets

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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DCFT

London Collections: Men: Duchamp

Cities |  London | 

Oh, a life of luxury! Duchamp is a gorgeous brand that I always love to see at London Collections: Men. One of the things I always appreciate about their presentations is the effort the put into showcasing the models as wearing their designs as moving, breathing beings (after, all, humans will be wearing these clothes!). The models are typically engaged with those around them, laughing, chatting, having a cocktail, showing how people would “live” in the clothes. After all, clothes are meant to be worn and not just walked down a runway.

For those who appreciate the finer things in life, Duchamp presents a collection of glamour that can be put into three distinct categories: Elegant English Gentry, Comtemporary Riviera and Summer Evening wear. The designs mesh English, Scottish and Italian fabrics into a mix of glamour and casual.

BDMOTP favorite: Purple silk jacket part of the Evening wear collection

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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FT

London Collections: Men: CMMN

Cities |  London | 

90’s minimalism was the name of the game this season for CMMN SWDN. The line was fresh and bright, and extremely streamlined, using mostly grey and white. Using surface decoration like needlework and ink, the some of the pieces seem almost 3D geometric.

Because the designs are simple, the line focuses on perfect fabrics and impeccable tailoring. The jackets were a eye catching focal point in the collection, which seemed to be androgynous for any of the women out there they may want a jacket from CMMN.

BDMOTP favorite: the grey jackets–in fact, all the jackets

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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MHFt

London Collections: Men: Maharishi

Cities |  London | 

The SS15 Maharishi collection was entitled the Viet-Afghan Coalition Tour. Hidden away in the trendy basement venue of the London Edition hotel, a collection of underground, hip young people awaited the start of the show. Red lights flashed and back drop resembling a colorful map appeared. My interest peaked.

The garments were a combination between young men hiking to Mount Everest and trendy, urban streetwear. Needless to say, I adored the collection. The Middle Eastern vibes combined with the durable, functional and weather proof fabrics seemed ultra hip. Models with face tattoos and turbans strutted to cool rap and house beats, and I was enthralled.

In the world of fashion, it’s hard to claim originality, but I thought the Maharishi SS15 collection was not only creative and aspiring, but trendy and wearable as well. Wearing Maharishi will make you look fashionable but not as if you are trying too hard, and of course if you are planning on backpacking, hiking or camping, you will look awesome while doing so. And of course, only made for the coolest of cool men.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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OSFT

London Collections: Men: Oliver Spencer

Cities |  London | 

I never really thought much about emotional architecture, but apparently it means connecting people to their space and experience–defining an art form using light, shadows, movement, and their relation to mankind. This concept, creatively used by architect Luis Barragan, was the main inspiration for the Oliver Spencer SS15 collection.

Each garment was effectively created with this thought in mind-focusing texture, color (contrasting and matching) to design comfortable and lightweight clothing.

The models strutted to the likes of a Brazilian percussion band “Rhythms of the City” with an end-all final jaunt down the catwalk by not only the models but also three scantily Carnaval clad Brazilian samba dancers.

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Now, I am not sure about the space and movement and connection, but I do know the collection was quite eye pleasing, light and airy, soft and calming, and the drum music was invigorating. Nothing like some samba drumming to make a man want to shop. Oliver Spencer tends to create garments that men simply want to wear.

BDMOTP favorite: Head-to-toe army green outfit

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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HGFT

London Collections: Men: huntergather

Cities |  London | 

Soul boy.

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Funky rhythms and dance halls provided the soulful inspiration for the SS15 huntergather collection. The garments were kitschy, bright and bold, something you’d wear to while ringing in summer, dancing the night away, mojito in hand.

An interesting architectural choice  featured shirts adorned with applique cut-outs within the line. David Bradshaw, the founder and director of huntergather saw the energetic Matisse cut outs show at the Tate Modern and new he wanted to reflect this in his designs for the SS15 line.

Huntergather always uses color well, and this season, paired a pinks and reds together, different shades of blue together, and really made great use of the main primary colors.

BDMOTP favorite: Red and pink yachting outfit

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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