London Collections: Men: huntergather

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“The difference between psychedelia and digitalia ages will seem like a smoothblending in years to come and will be a mere blip on the screen” -Edward Ruscha

The AW15 huntergather collection The Ongoing Movement takes us back to the 1970’s. Bell bottoms, slim jackets, wide belts and large collars bring us back to a time of Saturday Night Fever and free love. Bold prints and big hair line the runways. The looks of course, do have a modern touch with some Brooklyn inspired hipster glasses and funky sneakers paired with some of the looks. Bold prints were also an integral part of the collection.

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Wool textured jackets with a large collar dominate the London Collections: Men runway’s this season, and huntergather was no exception. The looks, in general, ranged from casual to professional to a night out at the disco, and there is something for everyone in the huntergather AW 2015 collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Agi & Sam

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The Agi & Sam collection Coolman actually started off with the inspiration of what children like to wear. Perhaps that’s why we see bright and bold colors for fall such as electric blue and bright red. Many of the looks even had leather in these vibrant colors.

Some of the models even had their faces covered with colorful puzzles, no doubt the inspiration of a primary school student. Colorblocking and texture were also prevalent among the collection. Size and shape were 80’s reminiscent, with squared shoulders and oversize looks. The “puzzle” theme was a reoccurring one, with different interpretations within the line.

Florals, graffiti patterns and asymmetrical lines were also a part of this eclectic collection. Coolman is for a man not afraid to express himself through the eyes of a child.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: YMC

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As usual, YMC showed off a sporty collection for a youthful, European man. This season, they also refined many of their looks aiming for a sporty, yet more mature collection featuring a lot of new textures and fabrics, like leather.

Layers, hoods, zippers, colorblocking,trench coats and several different styles of hats were seen on the coming season’s runway. In fact, hats seem to be trending all around this season at London Collections: Men, as we’ve seen many takes on the ski hat, the baseball hat, the fedora, the Cuban, the bowler and more.

The baggy pant then tapering at the ankle is another coming trend worth nothing. The style was combined with a variety of sporty and more professional looks.

This season, YMC see is all grown up, with more of a young adult weekend look than a college sport look. And don’t forget your hat.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Hentsch Man

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Remember the grunge days of the early 90’s? In case you are looking for a Nirvana or Offspring inspired garb, the AW15 Hentsch Man collection Peep Show combines the grunge subculture of the 90’s with their own signature American-inspired style (think cowboy boots and bandana prints with a grunge twist).

An ode to denim continues as well as appearances of wool coats, the “skinny” look and heavy knitwear to keep us warm through winter. Electric blue and red plaid dominate the collection, paired with the all-American baseball cap, a cool fedora or a hipster ski hat.

The Hentsch Man looks are fun and funky, bright and bold, bring back grunge, but not quite as “grungey” as we remember it during our Pearl Jam days. A little less Wayne’s World, and a little more style. The Hentsch Man is a dude with both a vibrant personality and a vibrant style.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Maharishi

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Maharishi is becoming quite the household name in the UK. The aim of the brand, which started in 1994 was to create high quality utilitarian clothing that is environmentally sound and fair-trade produced. The collection includes natural fibers like organic & natural materials and even uses pieces of recycled military clothing. It’s a completely new evolution of a military surplus store, and Maharishi considers the brand to be “pacifist’ military design.

This season from Maharishi we can feel the military look, with beiges, blacks and army greens, but he branches out with some leather looks and trends like zippers. Layers, hoods and neck coverings also appear in many of the looks, and we even see a military take on the cape here and there.

The brand could easily be walking the Tokyo, Seoul or Shanghai catwalks, as we can see a slight Asian influence in the silhouettes and with the oh-so-cool Year of the Monkey embossed jacket.

Maharishi is all about millennials. Men that want to look cool and in the now, but don’t want to forgo their environmental views to do so.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Alex Mullins

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Every season, there are designers who tend the push the limits with something on the creative edge, or something that perhaps isn’t the most wearable but is at least new and different.

This season at LC:M we see that from designer Alex Mullins. A primitive collection going back in time, as well as adding futuristic trends for an entirely new look. The trends include extreme oversize, chunky tops, and exploration with graphics and print writing. Vintage antique shoes complete the looks.

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Design doesn’t stop with the garments. The venue was also decorated in a primitive fashion to work alongside the looks, with primitive artwork with unpacked boxes, old carpet samples and a pink fluffy snake. Even the smell of coffee and cigarettes adds to the whole demeanor.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Several

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The AW15 Several collection was inspired by a photo exhibit Skinningrove, which features a mix of 1970’s & 1980’s photographs of working class British citizens. Coming to mind are rugged, hard-working citizens in need of rugged, hard-working clothes.

Trends like leather and useful things like pockets were featured in the collection. The garments could easily add a little flair to a work outfit, or be worn for a low-key weekend look as well. Whether it be camping, glamping or brunch and the farmers market, Several has got you covered.

Combining this wearability along with that perfect British tailoring and craftmenship we all know and love, Several somehow creates a beautiful collection with roots intertwined in British culture, juxtaposed with luxury. I never thought it possible to combine blue collar and white collar and come out on top, but Several has done just so.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Universal Works

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Kicking off London Collections: Men we’ve started off by seeing the Universal Works presentation, which really takes us, for lack of better description, Back to the Basics.

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The collection, entitled “Pass” presented the public with simple, muted and well, basic garments. Comfortable, movable clothes, nothing overly trendy or edge pushing, but well-tailored, for a man that needs that something to go with everything. Functional and refined, the presentation wasn’t the typical static representation, nor a runway show, but rather a choreographed selection of movements showing off the garments wearability and design aesthetic.

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Button-up cardigans, refined blazers and tailored baggy pants cuffed at the ankle were of the few of the trends lightly represented within the collection.

Is this mind blowing, edge pushing, craziness? Definitely not. Is this wearable for a 2015 man who wants to look stylish, but not ostentatious? Absolutely.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Natural Selection

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“[…]Can we doubt that individuals having any advantage, however slight, over others, would have the best chance of surviving and of procreating their kind? On the other hand, we may feel sure that any variation in the least degree injurious would be rigidly destroyed. This preservation of favorable variations and the rejection of injurious variations, I call Natural Selection. Variations neither useful nor injurious would not be affected by natural selection, and would be left a fluctuating element […]”.

Inspired by Charles Darwin in the Origin of Species, John Park created a menswear brand focusing on the necessity of constant evolution in a world in which only the strongest and most valid can survive, naming it “Natural Selection”. After a A/W 2014 collection with Art Deco references, the brand introduces some variations in order to evolve and adapt to the surrounding changing circumstances–this time–embracing the work of the abstract artist Tim Woolcock. 
 
Irregularity leads throughout, in the form of shirts speckled with polka dots and classic tailoring made of tweed, chambray and denim for a casual yet masculine man. Silhouettes remain neat across shorts, sweaters and single-breasted jackets. Macs and hooded capes have also an important role in these “Garment Species” teaming up with long shirts that turn traditional layering on its head. 
 
Despite the expected, colors don’t stick to the conventional summery spectrum as its main characters are navy, taupe, grey, khaki, light blue and some pinches of tie-dye, remaining us of Woolcock’s landscapes. In conclusion, and as Darwin would state, Natural Selection London goes one step ahead in the menswear process of evolution, proving that innovation and quality can walk alongside with elegance and functionality, turning the brand into a pro in the art of casual wear. 

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Posted by Paloma Canseco.

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Alice Made This

Cities |  London | 

Discovering new and up-and-coming designers is one of BDMOTP’s favorite activities, and the showrooms at London Collections: Men happens to be a great spot for doing so. Here we began chatting with Alice Walsh, designer of Alice Made This, featuring innovative tie and lapel pins, dress shirt studs and cufflinks.

Reflection, The Alice Made This SS15 collection

Reflection, The Alice Made This SS15 collection

I was immediately intrigued and starting asking questions about the unique and special pieces in front of me (my eyes are naturally drawn to sparkly, shiny objects).

Alice showing some shirt buttons

Alice showing some shirt buttons

Alice and her business partner (and husband, perhaps? Such lovely people!) were so interesting to talk with and in doing so, you can really feel the positive energy and passion for what they do. So what is it, exactly, that they do and why is it so unique?

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Alice Made This is a company dedicated to creating unique pieces by focusing on their manufacturing. Now, at first this sounds a bit confusing, but let me explain. They create each group of items in a specific way for their SS15 Collection, Reflection:

The first group, Precision Turned Metal, is created with a process done in the engineering and aerospace industries using solid steel and brass.

The Precious Metal Electroplating uses techniques from nanotechnology, with materials like gold, rhodium, silver and copper.

The Ropework designs are marine inspired and hand woven by British rope makers in East Anglia.

The Investment Casting uses a metal forming process that dates back to 5000 years ago, also used to produce things like gears and turbine place casts bronze with silver and rose gold finishes.

Some of the pieces made with the Investment Casting process.

Some of the pieces made with the Investment Casting process.

And even better news–every single piece is made right there in Britain. In a land where just about everything is “Made in China” this was like music to my ears. These original, classy pieces are reminiscent of a time where things were truly “manufactured”…fleeting thoughts of smokestacks and the industrial revolution flood my mind… so very, very British. I am especially fond of the Rose Gold pieces in the line. Rose Gold is so “in” right now, and I love how it has that antique, vintage feel to it. These pieces are quaint and special, perfect for a dapper man searching for just the right accessory.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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