BDMOTP is back at Milan Fashion Week and ready to check out the AW18 collections, starting with fancy shoe designer Guiseppe Zanotti, known for his glittery and bedazzled footwear collections.

This season’s collection was called Versatile, and we here at BDMOTP were thrilled to see that so many different shoe styles and types could all live under the same roof of one season’s collection.

As usual, Zanotti has his elegant shoes — velvet slip on’s embellished with jewels, studs or even a subtle ‘Bonne Nuit’ — which means ‘good night’ in French. Colors are dark and stylish, and velvet is a key player in the fabric game this season. All sorts of boots, like the combat are found with the collection too, reminding us that this is a fall-winter collection.

Then there’s the sporty set — bold and bright colors cover the certain attention-grabbing sneakers, though we suppose you could wear them to the gym. Neon and patent leather, tennis shoes and plenty of zippers, laces and more, these shoes are made for those wanting to be noticed.

This season, the brand upped their game with a new style (remember, versatility!), which was a sneaker with a built in Guiseppe Zanotti sock, taking out the complication of trying to find a fashionable pair of socks to sport with your hip trainers and cuffed trousers.

Of course, this ‘sock’ isn’t removable or washable, so you’ve got it there, attached to your shoe for life, so perhaps don’t plan to get too sporty in this particular pair!

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Guiseppe Zanotti.

As we were happily surprised last time covering Cottweiler and introducing them as the new kids on the block for London tailor-made concept wear that would probably feature not so badly in the MOMA or the TATE on exhibition, it was always going to be a hard sell to take Savile Row bespoke & action wear to next level (hmm).

But so designers Ben Cottrell and Matt Dainty did manage after all by setting this latest winterish underground collection (suits and hair and hands wet on the runway et al.) of Cottweiler inside the belly of the Earth’s Treasury Gallery in the London Natural History Museum, which is chock full of all types of minerals, which poses of course contradiction in that modern synthetics are now mixed with traditional types of wool (Merino from The Woolmark Company) but then again that was precisely the point because this type of ambiguity is what the designers strive for in concept works.

Synthetic vs natural, and real vs artificial, so that is why here we have the models dressed in underground caving and mining materials (Boris Bidjan Saberi is another designer whose concepts hark back to ice – climbing and caving) like harnesses, spotlights, and carabiners – synthetics mixed with woven wools – and frankly this is not the first time this has been witnessed on the runways in this glorious age of extreme sport luxury fashion, but aye, let’s give London credit of making the Hall of (largely robbed and stolen over the centuries by British explorers) Minerals available for this concept creation of modern fashion – wax and ceiling dripping trapping the miners shoe wear to the floors, and wetting their chests in the dark –, and the designers for trying to make the most of it.

Cottweiler concept wear – from the crystal caves of Krizna Jama to the Tate and the MOMA by way of the Museum of Natural History.

Hey, and let’s not forget a special mention for them oh so very masculine Mulberry bags in stalactite blue (not kidding you, look it up, it exists) or spring ice white in which you could pack your foulard in case you feel a little cold while looking for crystals underground. Or perhaps a small brumisateur parfum Chanel Bleu – just in case.

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Words by Sandro and photos by Cottweiler

 

D.GNAK, a brand that BDMOTP has been lucky enough to see in Seoul, Milan and London, is back at it with a very black and white collection for London Fashion Week Mens. The AW18 collection was inspired by Chinese poetry and the concept of transience. While you can strive for a glamorous life, it won’t last forever. But while it lasts, you should probably be wearing D.GNAK. Or at least that’s we think the brand is telling us.

The collection itself is pure streetwear: an urban, modern collection for a creative man. With all the details of Western built into Korean silhouettes, the collection is actually made entirely in black and white. With motifs like skulls and crossbones, as well as the word REPENTANCE placed sporadically on some of the garments throughout the collection, we again feel the concept of transience. D.GNAK is also king of the asymmetrical zipper.

But what is a Korean silhouette, really? Typically, it’s about playing with volume. Tapered jackets or long trenches paired with varying volumes of pants is a theme rounding out the collection. This time around, we see hoods and high-neck collars, and plenty of leather. Velvet, wool and jacquard also make an appearance.

Here at BDMOTP we love the idea of playing with D.GNAK’s separates. Instead of keeping a whole monochrome black look, we’d probably pair a jacket with some denim, or layer some of the pieces in with more classical looks for more versatility. But those who love a head-to-toe black look can pull of a D.GNAK look, that’s for sure.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from D.GNAK.

John Lawrence Sullivan was inspired by psychopath killers this season. Wait, what? Before you panic, he went more with a concept of a natural born killer having multiple personalities — hence — many different styles within the collection, which isn’t too traumatizing at all.

You can feel the differences in the collection right off the bat. Some of the garments give off a distinct cowboy vibe, like denim trousers and vests over collared shirts paired with cowboy boots. On the other side of things, 80s boxy, oversize city dweller vibe, like baggy suits.

The different ‘personalities’ within the collection somehow swing together perfectly, fitting fabrics like velvet with leather, and corduroy with wool. BDMOTP particularly loved the jackets, ranging from tight black leather and pinstriped, oversize blazers to long purple trench coats.

We never really thought about what items a psychopath would wear, but leather gloves seem to be fitting, and you’ll see these within the collection. Note, though, that wearing leather gloves does NOT mean you are a pyschopath? Or maybe it does? It in any case, they look cool and will keep your hands warm for winter!

BDMOTP’s favorite look was a wool oversize coat lined with green, paired with leather green pants and a cowboy-inspired plaid green top. We’re not quite sure what type of occasion would inspire such an outfit, but we love it just the same. In fact, BDMOTP loved most of the outerwear in this collection, so if you’re looking for the perfect fall or winter coat that has a unique twist to it, try one from John Lawrence Sullivan.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from John Lawrence Sullivan.

BDMOTP can always count on Oliver Spencer to give us just what we hope to see each season in London: traditional British topped with just enough trend to keep things relevant, but not enough to spoil its distinctly British roots. This is a brand we’ve always loved not just because of its dapper style, but also because of its diversity, using models of all ages, sizes shapes and colors, reminding us that Oliver Spencer’s clothes are for every man.

The collection for AW18 was titled ‘Love Is The Drug,’ and, fittingly enough, was inspired by a day in the glorious city of London. Perhaps the dark grey trousers and jackets bring up thoughts of the Thames or London’s skyline. Touches of burgundy remind us of London’s thriving nightlife scene, and help us remember that love is indeed, the drug.

Fabrics like corduroy and velvet are serving a purpose other than style — making sure that our men are kept warm and comfortable during cold and blustery winter weather. Touches of cream and winter white bring in thoughts of warmth. Other wintery fabrics like sheepskin and fur line coats are are used in collars. Jackets come in various fabrics, lighter for autumn, like leather and BDMOTP especially loved a colorblocked wool coat. We’re a little unsure about the cuffed pants — after all, with the recent winter weather, those ankles need to be covered up, but we can only hope for a 2018 winter warm enough for ankle exposure.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Oliver Spencer.

Tonsure is a relatively new brand, with designer Malte Flagstad launching the brand in 2014 in Copenhagen. With that minimalist Scandinavian touch, Tonsure is has a overcoat or jacket for every man. Whether it’s a puffer, pea coat or plaid jacket, Tonsure’s got you covered for any and every autumn and winter weather situation, whether it be rain, snow, wind or chilly temps.

With garments inspired by 1980s New York, we can’t help but reminisce, with wools, jersey and of course, everyone’s favorite fall fabric, leather. Touches of plaid also walked the runway — after all, it’s not a winter collection without a bit of plaid. Utilitarian backpacks strapped over long jackets and baggy trousers complete the looks, which are practical yet comfortable. The athleisure trend shows no signs of stopping for AW18 as we caught full sweatsuits and windbreakers walking the runway.

Dapper as ever, belted, modern suits covered by fur-lined coats will fit a more classic gentleman, but never losing it’s edgy feel. Touches of patent leather reminded us that athleisure can also be dressy — in fact — these days, athleisure can do pretty much whatever it wants.

Any man would look sharp in Tonsure but especially a city-dweller. Images and city sounds were incorporated into the catwalk, reminding us yet again of a vintage-cool Manhattan. A nostalgic New York gets us every time, and we can’t wait to try out one of Tonsure’s coats. Plus, who doesn’t love a nice pop of orange in the dead of winter?

BDMOTP favorite: a vintage-looking leather and sheepskin bomber jacket in a cool olive green.

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Word by Lori Zaino and photos from Tonsure.

 

BDMOTP couldn’t agree more with Liam Hodges tagline for their AW18 collection — “Everybody’s Free to Feel Good.”

This rings true when it comes to fashion. Men should feel good in what they wear, selecting garments that give them confidence and poise. Liam Hodges aims to tell men that they can still be boys if they want. They don’t have to grow up, suit up and become stuffy if they don’t want to.

And it’s true. It’s easier now than ever to be stylish and fancy man without looking stuffy, as fashions are shifting from Savile Row to streetwear. Long gone are the days you’ll be tossed out of an expensive shop for wearing a track suit or sweatpants. The more relaxed, the better.

Liam Hodges AW18 collection is all about being youthful and fun. With references to 90s TV shows, denim, tracksuits and airbrushed garments take the front line. Silhouettes range from baggy to slim, but you still see elements of the suited male, with plaid from head to toe and the ever-trending long trench coat. Warm puffer jackets and soft fabrics make the line not only trendy but practical for a cold, windy winter, one in which you’ll need to be protected from the elements.

Typically BDMOTP goes for a more structured look, but we are trying to loosen up a bit and enjoy the current moment in fashion, which is all about casual, comfortable activewear. It is what all the cool kids are wearing these days, anyway.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Liam Hodges

Here’s cheers to introducing another London Savile Row bespoke ready-to-wear rising star brand called Helen Anthony – Mister Anthony being the designer, and Helen after his grandmother who taught him the art of tailoring – and not forgetting that Mister Anthony’s main inspiration in the creation of all his collections is reported to be his mother – Mom!

But the curious thing for this SS18 collection was that the runway show was being held not in London but during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at the Real Intercontinental in San José, Costa Rica this month with apparently the illustrious Leonora Jimenez – supermodel – as an organizing director of the fashion week. In addition, this show was being sponsored by the British Embassy and stylist-du-jour Graham Cruz was present to cover for both the men’s and women’s wear collections.

Here at BDMOTP we may say that we have seen this London old gentlemen clubhouse hearty party style before recently with Alexander McQueen where British imperial motives were omnipresent, and to which now Helen Anthony likes to add a more traditional Scottish cloth square, or a pinstripe here and there, or perhaps a more refined Prince of Whales pattern which then mixes up vividly with Indian subcontinent colors of such pomp and of such lack of more traditional occidental shape that they would have not gone misplaced or unnoticed in the hidden salons of Imperial British Hong Kong – and not impeccable German Shanghai – , during the last opium war.

Which is quite a while ago.

For what else can a stiff upper lip gentleman in the late 19th century Far East do but to dress down in colors and shapes of craven braggadocio when you are the only stranger in town if your Scottish square or pinstripe does not remain straight up? You are a gentleman of the Orient after all

Posted by Sandro and photos from Helen Anthony.

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Private White VC is one of Best Dressed Man on the Planet’s go to British brands. Unfortunately, this season, they didn’t host an event of any kind in London to launch their SS17/18 collection, and BDMOTP was disappointed as they are usually first to set the tone for London Fashion Week Mens. However, we were able to get the scoop on what’s new and hot as well as who is wearing the brand around town this summer. Let’s start with the newness Private White VC is offering for this fall: a raincoat to weather all raincoats.

The famous unlined Mac

The famous unlined Mac

For those looking for the perfect fall or spring coat, the new SB Unlined Mac in the way to go. It’s apparently rain and windproof created by hand from 100% cotton Ventile Mac finished with their signature copper sealing tape.

However, we weren’t the first to get to Private White VC as much as we would have liked to. The brand is becomingly seemingly larger and growing on an international level and many celebs seem to have gotten there first. Here’s a few of our favorite Best Dressed Men sporting the brand:

The ever-dapper David Gandy.

The ever-dapper David Gandy.

David Gandy, a long time Private White VC fan (we used to spot him at the events each season) is still dedicated to the brand, wearing a Private White VC jacket in the perfect green color.

Woody Harrelson is sports the brand too.

Woody Harrelson is sports the brand too.

Private White VC clearly has an international appeal, as American actor Woody Harrelson was spotted by the Hollywood Reporter wearing Private White V.C. Navy Worksuit trousers.

Tennis start Andy Murrary is a fan as well.

Tennis start Andy Murrary is a fan as well.

Remember that little tennis event called Wimbledon? Andy Murray, tennis champ, was spotted there proudly wearing the Private White VC Suede Rainrider.

Dig through that closet to pull out your favorite Private White VC item to wear this fall, and if you can’ t find anything, perhaps it’s time for a new raincoat?

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Private White VC.

Wimbledon is one of the world’s most famous tennis championships. In fact, it’s the oldest tennis tournament in the world as well as being the most prestigious. Played on grassy outdoor courts at the All England Club in Wimbledon, it’s one of England’s most coveted yearly events. Many celebrities, athletes and of course, the Royal Family, are in attendance, looking fabulous and chic in their smart casual tennis tournament viewing wear. No pressure, though, on choosing an outfit. If you follow these tips, you should be just fine.

The players wear white and so can you

Take a little inspiration from the all-white uniforms and sports some white as well. Just make sure it’s crisp and summery. Usually here at BDMOTP we are all for the linen pants, but in this case, you’ll be seated for quite awhile and will want to avoid getting those trousers too wrinkled, so it may be best to avoid linen and choose another fabric instead.

Look sharp with a pair of white trousers.

Look sharp with a pair of white trousers.

You don’t have to wear a jacket, but hats are encouraged

Wimbledon has gotten a bit more casual over the years and typically you can go without a jacket in most areas. However, if you’re lucky enough to be in the Member’s Enclosure, a tailored jacket and tie are required. Hats will earn you extra points, because not only do they look cool, they’ll block out the sun too.

Jackets are not required as long as you still look dapper.

Jackets are not required as long as you still look dapper.

You can wear shorts

If the weather is warm enough, go ahead and wear a nice pair of tailored shorts. Just make sure they are tasteful.

You can wear shorts, just make sure they are tailored ones.

You can wear shorts, just make sure they are tailored ones.

DON’T wear these items

Ripped jeans, jogging pants, dirty gym shoes or anything you’d wear to the gym should not be worn to this rather debonair event. Extra points for wearing the Adidas Stan Smith sneakers, of course.

If you plan to wear sneakers, just make sure they are clean and new.

If you plan to wear sneakers, just make sure they are clean and new.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Darrel Hunter.

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