One of BDMOTP’s favorite British fashion brands, dunhill, has announced they’ve hired a new creative director, Mark Weston. Some of his vision for the brand will be shown as part of the Autumn Winter 2017 collection at London Fashion Week: Men’s this June, which BDMOTP will surely have an opportunity to check out (and report back, of course).

Mark Weston, the new creative director of dunhill. Photo from dunhill.

Mark Weston, the new creative director of dunhill. Photo from dunhill.

Mark Weston comes to dunhill from the brand Burberry, and his goal is to bring a classic yet relevant design aesthetic to the brand. The brand itself dates back to 1893 and not only creates menswear clothing but also delves into fun accessories that yet again, remind us what it means to be a Brit.

Dunhill's chic leather goods. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

Dunhill’s chic leather goods. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

BDMOTP has always been a fan of dunhill’s British bespoke designs. In fact, we love the brand for gifts. With Father’s Day coming up, the accessories like flasks, keychains, money clips, vintage lighters and even Backgammon sets make for great gifts. Let’s hope Mark Weston doesn’t plan to get rid of any of their fabulous accessories (or dapper, preppy jackets, bowties and printed shirts either). Or their chic leather goods, which BDMOTP especially loves in the form of wallets and change holders. In any case, we look forward to see what Mark Weston will bring to this iconic English brand.

A preppy look from dunhill. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

A preppy look from dunhill. Photo by Darrel Hunter.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos as specified in caption.

That it’s relevant we know from the press release and it is interesting to note that relevancy has become a catch-all phrase for yet the latest quality urban chic high end homme collection, but it is well put indeed because in order to stay relevant today, you also will have to be able to keep setting the trend, from season to season, from social media to media, and from city to city.

So ladies & gentlemen: enter Cottweiler – originating on Savile Row since 2012 as a new sartorial concept homme creation by designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty from England.

The designers.

The designers.

The other reason that it is relevant is because today when you launch a brand you need to be already accomplished.

Note therefore that Cottweiler works with a litany of performing artists in the music and entertainment industry as stylists and is currently spicing and sprucing up Reebok to get on the nearside (or should we say far side) of what is considered high end or quality wear (Adidas and others are trying to get their too with capsule collections featuring the latest designers).

But that is not all. Because you can actually find their collections as well in some modern art museums in England, Germany and beyond. Yes, that is right, fashion design is a modern art. And as such we should not fail to mention that Cottweiler has won prizes with Louis Vuitton, the British Fashion Council, and with Woolmark recently. The still add to this an exclusive and selective list of high end stockists in a limited number of countries and the picture is complete. Cottweiler ready to launch.

All relevancy comes at a price.

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Words by Sandro and photos from Cottweiler.

Minimalist designer Qasimi shows his Middle Eastern-inspired collection for AW17/18 at London Fashion Week Men’s. Walking the delicate line between pajamas fit for a prince and underground street wear, Qasimi’s collection, characterized by straight, simple line and long, floating scarves was a breath of fresh air for the coming season.

From pale pink robes to chartreuse turtlenecks, the colors and basic shapes of the collection immediately catch the eye. Outerwear in sheepskin, leather and knit covered the looks, and all were paired with slippers, again, giving us that desert nomad vibe.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Qasimi.

Songzio, a South Korean brand showed their AW17/18 collection entitled “Misanthrope” at London Fashion Week Men’s. The clothes take on a sartorial vision of traditional suits and fancy style, with Songzio’s Paint on Black look, where the designer paints on his pieces. Long trenches and oversize outerwear are an important part of the collection, and nothing seems to stray far from grey, black and brown, except for the occasional pop of orange.

An interesting take on ties should be noted, extra skinny or extra wide. Layered leather with knits, flashes of velvet and the occasional hat walked the runway as well.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Songzio.

Blood Brother showed their AW17/18 collection “Thames” at London Fashion Week Men’s, inspired by the underground subculture of the British Thames river. They consider themselves to design “men’s sartorial sportswear,” another designer added to the list of many British brands catering towards a shift in fashion away from the Savile Row suits and towards a more urban streetwear style.

The looks are modern and contemporary, using straight lines and black and navy with pops of bright orange. Long scarves, baseball hats and metal embellishments on belts and suspenders added detail.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Blood Brother.

Kent & Curwen is distinctly British. The AW17/18 collection, created by Daniel Kearns and British soccer star David Beckham at London Fashion Week Men’s focuses on outerwear. Featuring coats in every shape and style, BDMOTP is particularly drawn to the longer and shearling-lined coats, perfect for a chilly winter. Bomber jackets and blazers are for fall, and the army-green coats layered over blazers and shirts are appropriate for those blustery November days when you just don’t know what to put on.

Daniel Kearns and David Beckham at the Kent & Curwen show.

Daniel Kearns and David Beckham at the Kent & Curwen.

Their take on the military trend includes long, wool overcoats with gold buttons (if Beckham’s wearing it, we want it) and the aforementioned army green jackets. These take on that vintage feel but are still modern enough to feel relevant. Continuing with outerwear, warm knit scarves and pageboy caps complete many of the looks. There’s also an Ivy League feel to the collection, as one might see a student and Princeton or Yale sporting a button up sweater with a motif pocket or patched blazer.

The pieces are casual yet elegant and could be worn to work, on campus or for a weekend brunch or dinner out on the town. There’s something for every man in this collection, holding true to their English roots but still appealing to an international customer.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Kent & Curwen.

The Private White V.C. collection at London Fashion Week Men’s turned to unisex trends for the AW17/18 season. Cocktails, press, buyers and one dog wandered around the event, checking out the durable yet fashionable fabric choices for the coming season. Everyone’s whispering about the “Family Coat,” an androgynous style coat with an oversize fit that can work for anyone in the family.

Creating a broader range, one more inclusive of the changing world around us is never negative. As a female, I’ve always admired menswear and it seems like designers are stepping into new territory and opening their collections to a unisex customer, one not bound by gender norms that perhaps governed the fashion choices made by our parents or grandparents. I’m pleased to know I can now wear Private White V.C. alongside my male counterparts.

The family coat, among other unisex wear from Private White V.C. won’t compromise quality. As usual, the designs are classic but also relevant and always well-tailored. AW17/18 also brings layers, plaids, soft knitwear and military references.

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Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Dan Watson for Private White V.C.

Belstaff presents a military collection inspired by naval and submarine at London Fashion Week Men’s, entitled the Jolly Rodger. The line takes inspiration in form of color and silhouette, with typical navy outerwear such as the peacoat and the parka. Of course, tones of blue and military green were incorporated, as well as navy.

Models posed against large metal cylinders to give off the feeling of being on a ship. Naval motifs and details are found through the garments, especially on the jacket and coats, which are an integral part of this unisex collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Belstaff.

Nigel Cabourn’s utilitarian style takes us into AW17/18 at London Fashion Week Men’s. The collection, which manages to turn comfortable and practical clothing into elegance, was covered in safari and military print. The garments were durable and ready for the wear and tear of a working man, or at least one braving the streets of London this winter. Actually, the collection is appropriate for women as well, and contains 20 unisex pieces that can be worn for ski trips or otherwise.

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This season, to celebrate the brand’s 30th anniversary, the brand put forth a collection of not only urban casual wear but also ski wear. Cabourn explains that while his designs are typically based in British army wear, this season, he used Sweden’s military as the base of inspiration for his ski collection.

The camouflage style makes the items perfect for stylish street wear, but the clothes do serve a purpose: they’re made to last through all sorts of inclimiat weather conditions. Hopefully there’s some ski resorts near London!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Ben Benoliel for Nigel Cabourn.

John Lobb footwear has been a staple in the London Men’s Fashion scene for many years now. Their special marbled leather look has been selling since the 1960’s, and the trend carries on for AW16, as well as shoes with suede finishes and curated sneakers. Within any collection, there’s always a favorite, and the wow item is the suede Jodhpur boot with a rubbers sole and a leather strap and buckle.

BDMOTP thinks the muted fall colors and elegant, classical styles, finished with a modern edge will appeal to all sorts of men as workwear or casual weekend footwear.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from John Lobb.

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