Of course it would be New York that pioneers the man-bag to become a common feature on the grand slam runways. For this is certainly not Milan elegance. Parisian chic. Or not even London swag. No, for the ultimate insult to be able to hit or slap someone you don’t like with your man-bag could only happen and come to pass FIRST on the streets of New York City. It’s so insolent. So uncivilized. So very passive-aggressive. So very New York. Funny thing then that the comment most overheard during the Helen Anthony show during New York fashion week on front row about the beautiful and stylish W I L L I A M man-bag collection was ‘it’s about time’ (for man-bags to become mainstream).

So here is a New York exclusive as BDMOTP was granted backstage access after the Helen Anthony show in New York City in February 2018 for our special reporter to do a small interview with man-bag designer William Ayers himself on W I L L I A M: or on how to introduce man-bags for men both manly or androgynous, or … for any kind of man really, to a larger audience.

  1. Must be an honor to work with Helen Anthony. What did you learn about style for men for handbags by the collaboration?

It was fantastic. Antony and I have been working together for a little while and I have been very much inspired by some of his patterns, and also I have been working with the jewelry designer, our handbags working off exotic materials (which) all came together for the texture.

  1. Why should men carry handbags today – is this the trend?

It’s been a trend around certain parts of the world for a long time. Certain things we brought to New York, and that’s the way things should be going.

  1. What’s the best occasion for a man to carry a W I L L I A M handbag if it’s not a briefcase?

Anytime. Men’s rules for handbags is completely changing. Anytime. When you are going to the airport, or if you are just going to dinner.

  1. Is the choice of materials important in making handbags or a briefcase for men?

One hundred percent. As important for women materials in every collection that I am inspired by. A certain origin for this (collection) was the concept of the fork, and then from that we extracted what we wanted to pull up from nature so we used crocodile, stingray, pony hair, etc.

  1. Why is the W I L L I A M collection called F U S C I N U L A?

That’s the Latin word for fork.

  1. What’s the best way for a man to carry a W I L L I A M handbag or briefcase on the streets of New York?

Any way they want.

  1. Is the W I L L I A M collection for men designed just for pleasure or more for work purposes?

More on the pleasure side.

  1. We all pretend to know what’s in a woman’s handbag; but what item goes best in a man’s (if it’s not a briefcase)?

Daily wallet, keys. A man’s life is a little more simple so he does not need so many things.

  1. Can we find W I L L I A M at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s very soon (if not already)?


  1. Who would be the best dressed man on the planet carrying a W I L L I A M bag?

Oh wow … I don’t know! Anyone that is just fantastic.
























Interview by Gaby, story and questions written by Sandro and photos from Helen Anthony through W I L L I A M.

Duarte is a relatively new brand, founded in 2015 by designer Carlos Duarte. The AW18-19 collection was inspired by artist Francis Bacon. The idea was to take each garment and create it in an abstract and colorful way, taking inspiration from the famous painter. In the past, the designer  has focused just on men, but this season, womenswear was also part of the collection.

BDMOTP was initially pleased with the layering of the collection: stripes mixed with plaids layered over one another. We also loved the intentional clashing of fabrics, a leather shirt tucked into cotton trousers, for example, added real depth to the line. The third collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid to feature a bold orange coat, although this particular one was more tailored than the other long trenches we saw. Don’t worry though, if you’re a fan of the oversize trench, because Duarte featured those too. Outerwear also came in the form of shorter, boxier jackets with large, square pockets, rather unlike anything we saw on the Madrid runways.

We still see some of the popular “of the moment” trends, like the turtleneck and some colorblocking elements. BDMOTP also liked the colors of the collection, which included wool coats in deep brown and army green as well as black, grey, khaki and orange, providing gentleman with all the basics and more when it comes to color choice. We look forward to seeing Duarte evolve and grow in seasons to come on the Madrid runways.
























Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA/Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid.

Roberto is one of the first designers in Madrid to switch to a see now, buy now model, along with two other designers, Maria Escote and Olivia. A new concept on the Madrid runways, this  particular model refers to the fact that what you see on the runways can now be bought now, meaning Verino was showing spring collections in a sea of fall and winter ones.

Whether the concept works is still to be determined, but we certaintly liked what we saw on the runways, creating visions of a coming spring through the chilly temps, snow and cold of January and February.

Verino’s collection was mainly womenswear, but the menswear was business as usual: suits. With pastel colors and a solid khaki/beige base, the looks are preppy and stylish, perfect for a spring spent in lounging in Canne, yachting on the Costa Esmeralda or strolling the docks of Boston.

We loved the occasional pops of color, and it’s not the first time we’ve seen a fabulous orange trench on the Madrid runways. Vertical stripes came with a pop of baby blue and green color, and a shiny black suit was appropriate for evening wear. Men too, just like women, have been long awaiting vertical stripes to make a comeback, because not all of us are tall and slim with perfect figures. A slimming vertical stripe could do many of us well — and much better than a horizontal one. Linen and denim were among the more casual fabrics, meaning you could stroll out on a Saturday afternoon to the park and not look too overdressed.
























Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA/Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.

GARCIA MADRID has graduated to the catwalks of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, currently the only brand to show a mens-only collection for AW18-19. BDMOTP couldn’t be happier, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has been dominated by womenswear for many, many seasons, possibly since the very beginning of its time, and only just have the catwalks finally realized that yes, men also need to get dressed every day too. So thank you GARCIA MADRID for not only creating your fashions just for men, but for also walking them down the AW18-19 catwalks in Madrid for all to enjoy and admire.

And enjoy and admire we did. Bright colors and dapper, yet wearable fashions walked the runways. Pops of bright orange, bold purple and brilliant gold are a staple in the collection and we see trends of all kinds, like floral patterned blazers, long trenches, plaid, layers and turtlenecks. Preppy shawls and scarves were layered over suits and blazers for an extra added touch of prep — which is ever trendy in the fashion-conservative city of Madrid.

We were pleased to see the beginnings of more model diversity on the catwalk — in previous seasons, Madrid has struggled with this point, but is slowly beginning to include a more diverse selection of models. BDMOTP’s favorite piece was an orange floor-length trench — after all — we are obsessed with outerwear. This warm and vibrant pop of color seemed to unfreeze the ice, snow and the cold of winter and bring in the warmth of roasting chestnuts and cinnamon tea.
























Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA.

Interestingly this show tackled the legacy of David Lynch from a fashion perspective and indeed we could probably leave it up to Masanori Morikawa (Christian Dada) to be the right person to be able to do this with his deconstructionist Dadaist imperfection-is-beauty view of the world – and if then one imagines the setting of beautiful Japanese techniques and fabrics where East and West easily blend together, where David Lynch colors are intact and with here and there some raffled imperfections as if the ugly canvas would be boring deeper into your vision than the actual print thereon – then look, here is that denim rag-doll overcoat which you can see in the slideshow below as part of an inspiring and festive collection. For here is art on the runway.

Here are some of the details. For we see corporate brands who are sponsoring (like Kappa for sportswear and Dickies for workwear) in inverted and obverse poses in deconstructed formats and in ugly colors as if indeed this would be the latest concept art you did not hear of yet in a museum of modern art near you, as so much of this stuff in the museum is often impossible to appreciate unless you actually know each thought and each breath taken by the conceptual artist that created the works.

So when by the runway it is nice indeed to be able to appreciate such work in all it sartorial delight with short references only, which in this case are of course the colors and work of David Lynch (spirals, and other graphics), the deconstructive ideas and Japanese traditional techniques (check the Kimono – collars and the silks) of Christian Dada, and the deliberately perverse inversions of modern corporate logos.

And it must be said that the latter is definitely progress from some years ago when companies would never allow their brand logo to be touched and to be ‘remade’ into something entirely different. But then in 2014 came Louis Vuitton allowing their logo to be ‘destroyed’ by some famous designers and artists (the Iconoclast collection) and ever since this idea of creatively destroying logos has been adapted by other companies as well.

And that leaves us with the Rose as a signature in this collection, which no matter how hard artists try, even if by any other name, will always still be a rose.
























Words by Sandro and photos from Christian Dada.

Watching those Rock Chic Beatle wigs in vibrant anime style pass by on the RYNSHU runway can be lots of fun and we hope you get a good impression from the pictures below. Because this old Japanese master who changed his name many times but who eventually settled for RYNSHU always managers to deliver.

This time he is inspired by a rock tune music video he has been working on in collaboration with musical artists, but the basic concepts for his collections are always nearly the same: Classy Japanese techniques that go back ages, a wealth of fancy materials (Alpaca, Cashmere, silks, and viscose), flower embroideries and special stitching, and aye, those many shades of black supported with some cool sotto voce hues like eggplant, fuchsia, lilac or midnight blue.

This all always for a grand show makes. And if you then still add to this those androgynous anime looks as if it is the latest installment of your local cosplay event the picture becomes complete.

RYNSHU has a store in Paris on 270 rue St Honoré and undoubtedly would be an excellent stylist for a major movie release in Hollywood one day if he is not already collaborating on a similar project. And yes, hence all the praise, celebrities are seen at the RYNSHU events but thank god not every designer frequented by the Instagram elite has yet gone mainstream. For it is often the mainstream that has the ability to kill off an original style by demanding that the speed of reinvention and innovation is increased manifold. But there is nothing to reinvent here it is just perfect as is.

Therefore, that the Rock Chic of RYNSHU may last forever.






















Words by Sandro and photos from RYNSHU

This is not the first time we are covering Sankuanz, the designer better known as Shangguan Zhe from China, whose emphasis in his creations and his collections lies with advanced materials / fabrics and the concept of functional urban warrior outerwear. As we are used of course to seeing North Face, Columbia, Patagonia, Kathmandu, and other outdoor action wear companies like Carhartt, the difference with Sankuanz is that here we find a high end designer / brand collection which purports to create high – end functional clothing (called engineered outerwear) made for the urban jungle helping you with ‘fighting for a living’ (from the press release).

Advanced and innovative materials, fabrics, and techniques are used in the creation process which allows for some interesting stalwarts like neoprene menswear and fiber protected parkas, hoodies, or even jeans. Protection from outer elements is thus a strong motif in this collection as also the shoes-turned-rubber sandals is meant to protect you from the urban wilderness. After wading outside on the dirty streets, you can just shake them off your transformable sneakers. And clearly protective motor cycle tops and pants, as well as motor cycle gloves, would then also feature well into this show.

Add still a couple of multi-task pockets and safety straps here and there and indeed you get the idea of an individualist avant-gardist urban fire fighter who sets out to solve issues on his own account. Or for the account of Sankuanz who manages still to ‘break the wall’ (show theme) into the direction of unexplored sartorial horizons in engineered urban outerwear for the AW 18 collection.
























Words by Sandro and photos by Sankuanz.

Going to a Boris Bidjan Saberi show is always a guilty pleasure that leaves you for wanting more. So to the next show you go. Despite the theme always being the same. Long lost travel. Overcoming impossible obstacles. Adventurism and masculinity from a forgotten era before Disney bought Star Wars. Think Dune (there is a reason this fabulous book was never put on a film again). More so think Chronicles of Riddick. Radiation goggles. Leather hides and straps with buckles made from mysterious rare earth materials or tar-like synthetics with properties never seen before. Monochrome colors for long dusty roads that never end. Sunsets or dawns that never come. You get the drift as you drift away slowly when watching this gem of a show.

So for those of you who are new to the work of this middle aged master, Boris Bidjan Saberi, besides being a prolific designer, is also an adventurer, an ice climber, and a cave explorer, who is apparently quite capable in channeling his inner Han Solo from experience so that in artistic life he finds the creativity and the energy to put up futuristic characters for all to be seen – aye encountered – as personas on the runway.

We’re here …

In the past we had the chance once to try on one of the boots that belongs to the costumes and they are mighty heavy, pointy, and frankly – dangerous to boot. We also had the experience of sampling his dark perfume and again completely in line of character of his stark and dark and dusty creations this dusky smell fell right home. So it is funny to think that the Boris Bidjan Saberi Flagship store is in Barcelona, which is such a colorful and happy place, whereas then it must be said that there is also a store somewhere in Gotham – New York.

Which ultimately may be more of the right fit as a setting for this type of the Boris Bidjan Saberi Philip K. Dick universe:

“You mean old books?”

“Stories written before space travel but about space travel.”

“How could there have been stories about space travel before –“

“The writers, made it up.”

― Philip K. Dick in Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?
























Words by Sandro and photos from Boris Bidjan Saberi.

And now for something completely different!

For while the calendar Fashion Week Homme AW 18 is slowly progressing in Paris, Haute Couture is already starting. Mind you that ‘haute couture’ is a term protected by law in France and that therefore you will not be able to find it in New York, London, or Milan – that is to say – at least not for men. Because haute couture basically means beautiful and incredible fabrics made entirely by hand into high end dress wear from beginning to finish. No budget required or necessary. No price tag possible. These are priceless items for which no market exists. They are hors norm – exceptional items, the stuff for red carpets and old world galas where the music comes not in stereo or mixing sounds but with violins leading discrete orchestras playing a rhapsody. And thus, where London, New York, Milan, and Hong Kong have bespoke tailoring – only Paris has couture.

Just as men’s fashion shows often have a woman or two on the runway to show and illustrate diversity in shape, form, and color, it is not well-known that sometimes the haute couture presentations will indeed also have a couple of men who are facing the very daunting task to walk the runway with the ladies. And of course these men will flat out fail if this were a competition so as to look as great as only a woman can, but what is interesting here for Best Dressed Man is that when you put men and the women together in one show for Homme that the end result is different than when you see men and women together in a show for Couture.

For at Homme what you get to see is a rather boring genderless made-for-the-trend unisex wear fit one and for all and ready for the latest street style, whereas when you see men and women together in Haute Couture that the women will look very feminine and the men beautiful while the style will be timeless. And that’s a big difference.

So enter here couturière Yumi Katsura from Japan with a grand show in the Imperial Room of one of Paris’ old grand hotels not so far from place Vendôme with a collection called Bonds, a word to represent the link between East and West in the art of painting nature, and enter two men on the runway between women wearing the most beautiful creations. Theme is nature and wildlife on prints created through silk dying (Yuzen).

And what now shows miraculously is that both male and female identity – side by side – is beautifully preserved, complimented, and safeguarded, rather than confused, mocked, or aye – erased altogether as we so often see happening in the less traditional shows for Homme. It is thus the beauty of diversity that shines in the Yumi Katsura Haute Couture collection, and the not the mindless deconstruction thereof. Or in this case, couture beating homme.

Avant-gardists, progressives, and other gender neutral fashionistas please take careful note.

Words by Sandro and photos by Yumi Katsura.

There is never a good fashion week in Paris without including Officine Générale because of its timeless French streetwear chic. And just like Agnès b., Officine Générale is always a refreshing reminder that in France at least ‘yes, it is possible to make beautiful clothes for men from 18 – 77 years old’. But that is not to say that one size fits all. For even though what you see in the runway may seem traditional and elegant, this does not mean that very careful attention is paid in how the ready-to-wear items are made. And this, besides its French flair and class, is what gives Officine Générale the edge.

In this collection we see beautiful sweaters made from special fabrics like Scottish yarn for example that took time to source. We do not notice seams so that the clothes fall more casual – with more nonchalance – around the body. Textures are softened rather than – pop culture be cursed – heavily printed, hardened, or emblazoned across. Military uniforms appear as a leitmotiv. And there is interesting contrast of washed out denim vs classy and soft fabrics. Finally we notice ‘dated’ colors which may very well be the best part of this winter collection. Khakis and browns will do that to you. That forgotten decade 80’s look. But all in the pursuit of the natural. That free flowing casual French attitude of laissez–faire – just let it go – which may very well be the secret of the success of Officine Générale around the world.

Highly popular in America and around the world in 130 selling point locations you can find them at Barneys New York. In Paris in two stores and at Bon Marché of course. And most recently with a new store in London on Beak Street. It’s not surprising this brand is going places with its timeless French streetwear chic because it’s simple and beautiful and does not look to set or create a trend. For who needs Pop Culture if you are French?

And that brings us to one item in this collection that may become the well-noted exception to this conception: Mexican Police boots from the 90’?! A stark original and some seriously dangerous retro that spells trouble and which may very well cause a new trend or cult following. More like France gone Tarantino.
























Words by Sandro and photos from Officine Générale.

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