BDMOTP always looks forward to seeing Todd Snyder’s collections at NYFW Mens as they typically set the scene for the menswear fashions to come. For SS18, Snyder did not disappoint, creating an eclectic mix of trends encompassing all of the styles that seem to be taking over the runways this season, of course, with his own special unique touch.

First off, baggy trousers seem to be one of the main trends in Snyder’s SS18 collection. Cuffs at the bottom were an interesting touch to some of the looks, and something we haven’t seen much in Milan, Paris or London — we’ll be anxiously awaiting to see if it catches on.

Stripes were very prevalent in the collection, and the appearance of the vertical stripe —  something that women absolutely love as it’s slimming — was an interesting touch for menswear. There are definitely gentleman out there that might appreciate a slimming touch as well, anyway.

More sartorial looks graced the runway, such as suits layered over polos and shirts covered by long trenches, one of next spring’s biggest trends. Snyder of course had to participate in the athleisure trend, and in doing so collaborated with Champion. The juxtaposition between the Champion sweatshirts paired with tailored shorts and jackets was an interesting one — and this mismatching between sartorial style and athletic wear is quite literally taking the fashion world by storm.

Snyder also explains that his dad used to wear black shocks with shorts, and this bothered him immensely. But as they say, we all become our parents one way or another, and Snyder ended up using this trend, which once frustrated him, many times in the SS18 collection.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by the CFDA of NYFW.

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For SS18 at Berlin Fashion Week, we saw colors, colors and more colors. Starting off with Nathini Van Deer Meer, long trenches and layers covering shorts and stripes walked the runway. The designer, whose influences stem from growing up in between Southeast Asia and Europe, used interesting fabrics such as silk within her collections. She also points out that most of her designs are gender neutral.

A beige look from Natini van deer Meer. Photo via Facebook by Frazer Harrison.

A beige look from Nathini van deer Meer. Photo via Facebook by Frazer Harrison.

Another Meer look is completely different, going into a more spring urban style. With a layered leather jacket sporting some unique fringe (perhaps a product of her Southeast Asia inspiration), this is a look more appropriate for a cool spring day.

A fringed look from Nathini Van deer Meer. Photo courtesy of Facebook via Frazer Harrison.

A fringed look from Nathini Van deer Meer. Photo courtesy of Facebook via Frazer Harrison.

Ivanman came at SS18 with serious color. In fact, it could better be described as serious blue. The blue upon blue makes a big statement, and we love this jacket which could also easily be paired with other non-blue items if the all-blue look seems like a bit much for you.

A look from Ivanmnan. Photo from Ivanman.

A look from Ivanmnan. Photo from Ivanman.

Of course, Berlin can’t not partake in the long trench trend that has been popular this season and will continue into SS18. We can’t help but wonder what color is found underneath this all-encompassing blue trench.

Another blue look from Ivanman. Photo from Ivanman.

Another blue look from Ivanman. Photo from Ivanman.

Finally, Hien Le goes the warm color route with bright gold and various shades of beige and off white. BDMOTP also loves the sunglasses, which could be paired with any look.

A bright gold look from Hien Le courtesy of Facebook via Franzer Harrison.

A bright gold look from Hien Le courtesy of Facebook via Frazer Harrison.

Will you be wearing bright gold or blue this spring? Let us know in the comments section below!

Words by Lori Zaino.

It’s sometimes cool to be geek and hip to be square with the latest Oliver Peoples 2017 collection of sunglasses made privately for Berluti and which – by and large – comes more often than not in the ominously morose color of tobacco brown so as if to say ‘I really don’t care what you think what I look like’ especially when the framework does not only come in aviator cool or Persol hip, but also in that one gaudy square shape that will immediately turn any halfway good-looking man into a fumbling geek or an insecure nerd like superman transformed into the bumbling journalist Clark Kent of the Daily Bugle. But that is called style my friend!

Italian style, for these little masterpieces are all handcrafted in Italy and are well worth seeking out if you like to go Sotto Voce, and not screaming in agony for attention like K – Pop Instagram wannabe starlets in Gentle Monster to the latest greatest runway show trying to be seen, but rather to observe what is going in this grand world of fashion of ours. Well of course you are going to need some matte or semi-matte tobacco looking sunglasses because polaroid is just that necessary at the moment while you are sitting still in reflection and not aiming to be speeding in your car or taxi to the next ‘event’. Your Italian style, of course, speak for itself, and this is where Oliver Peoples 2017 for Berluti comes in real handy.

Thank god not too many lens or frame colors to choose from, but keeping it simple in tobacco, grey, indigo, some gold, and of course nero these vintage shades are all that you really need if you are NOT looking for attention because you know that class always comes with rather low key traditional style. No questions asked. No need to flaunt it. Because it is Hip to be Square, and Cool to be Geek. With Oliver Peoples 2017 sunglasses for Berluti.

Words by Sandro and photos from Oliver Peoples via GPS Radar

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Wimbledon is one of the world’s most famous tennis championships. In fact, it’s the oldest tennis tournament in the world as well as being the most prestigious. Played on grassy outdoor courts at the All England Club in Wimbledon, it’s one of England’s most coveted yearly events. Many celebrities, athletes and of course, the Royal Family, are in attendance, looking fabulous and chic in their smart casual tennis tournament viewing wear. No pressure, though, on choosing an outfit. If you follow these tips, you should be just fine.

The players wear white and so can you

Take a little inspiration from the all-white uniforms and sports some white as well. Just make sure it’s crisp and summery. Usually here at BDMOTP we are all for the linen pants, but in this case, you’ll be seated for quite awhile and will want to avoid getting those trousers too wrinkled, so it may be best to avoid linen and choose another fabric instead.

Look sharp with a pair of white trousers.

Look sharp with a pair of white trousers.

You don’t have to wear a jacket, but hats are encouraged

Wimbledon has gotten a bit more casual over the years and typically you can go without a jacket in most areas. However, if you’re lucky enough to be in the Member’s Enclosure, a tailored jacket and tie are required. Hats will earn you extra points, because not only do they look cool, they’ll block out the sun too.

Jackets are not required as long as you still look dapper.

Jackets are not required as long as you still look dapper.

You can wear shorts

If the weather is warm enough, go ahead and wear a nice pair of tailored shorts. Just make sure they are tasteful.

You can wear shorts, just make sure they are tailored ones.

You can wear shorts, just make sure they are tailored ones.

DON’T wear these items

Ripped jeans, jogging pants, dirty gym shoes or anything you’d wear to the gym should not be worn to this rather debonair event. Extra points for wearing the Adidas Stan Smith sneakers, of course.

If you plan to wear sneakers, just make sure they are clean and new.

If you plan to wear sneakers, just make sure they are clean and new.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Darrel Hunter.

The house of Rochas is very old and established in Paris but only recently started making collections for men and we are grateful they did. Because finally here is collection ready to wear also for manly men. No runway necessary when you are a car mechanic. And there is no fashion show applicable for car pilots or drivers if indeed you are a gentleman. For this house signature goes back to the time when Marcel Rochas back in the fifties would name some of his creations after famous car brands, and when car racing was still a leisurely sport. Because he liked speed. And who does not like speed – even today? Indeed a special privilege still only reserved for the few.

So Béatrice Ferrant, creative director, picked up on this old car racing vibe de la Maison and started mixing both formal and technical fabrics in the most interesting way and with the most precious retro colors we have seen in presentations for a while (Carven comes close). For it is that amber red canvas look which immediately makes you think of ancient car racing days, especially when contrasted with a pastel green opal or aquamarine. It is so recognizable that even when you would have never thought of racing as a sport, you could imagine it in your dreams by the colors alone. Unfinished workmen’s raffles and threads included. This collection is very finished.

A gentleman driver at work on his number one passion: speed

A gentleman driver at work on his number one passion: speed

So while admiring these finished sartorial creations bringing back alive the time when man was still allowed to be a gentleman and studying the race stripes and checkboard patterns on the floor entering the showroom, who else would come to mind involuntarily but the greatest style icon of the recent past, the late great Steve McQueen, who, besides actually being a trained and accomplished as a race car driver, also famously starred in – Le Mans – an American film from 1971 about France’s greatest race and racetrack for cars. So here in the Rochas SS18 collection we trace the legend, the man, the history of France, and the style of Le Mans all in one. Look closely at the resemblance in the pictures below – for this may very well be the second coming of Steve McQueen. A manly man in sotto voce for all times.

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

As finished and grand as the concept is thus executed by Béatrice Ferrant and her team, we would still like to add that the Rochas Homme SS18 collection is incredible in the details, not only in the showroom, but specifically in the menswear itself: Signatures of embroidery as race tags; removable driver and mechanic armbands; racing insignia and badges; pit stop accessories; outsized car racing numbers; rough texturing fabrics; high tech material and canvas (the press release speaks of techno-couture); ultra-refined foliage and map T-shirts (against the heat) with the map of Le Mans as a print; cotton fishnet fabrics for transparency and air when you are out in the garage; biker jackets and driving suits for when you need to change gear or wear. It’s the complete package.

All of which together brings back a very special time when men of the past were not just professionals racing for money, but actually gentlemen racing for a sport. For only a gentleman dresses up – and not down – when he is in the pit stop changing a wheel, or while racing trying to beat the brutal competition in a car he has put together and took apart first himself. For this is called sports and not business.

Rochas Homme SS18, classic French racecar chic gloriously executed for gentlemen who like speed.

Words by Sandro and photos from Rochas.

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Call it Dancing on the Valentine because J – Pop still rocks in 2017 like a long forgotten British boy band did back the eighties. And no, the images you are seeing are not produced with film studio blue screen technology but are actual rooftop images over Paris on the most perfect summer afternoon one would be able to imagine with a backdrop of the Grande Arche de la Défense in the far distance with a summer breeze softly blowing and small white clouds gently floating across the open sky – it’s all real. Thus the Rynshu SS18 collection likes to celebrate the freedom of the infinite sky (press release).

Old master designer from Japan Masatomo Yamaji who changed his artistic name three times before finally settling on Rynshu has been doing Paris runway shows since the nineties and has a very distinct cult following including some rock and pop stars, which is far from surprising when you more closely study his marvelous creations which we would want to dub Pop-Couture. For here there is undoubtedly a wealth of intricate and fine design underlying all the glitz and the glitter when you know anything about the Japanese sartorial arts.

Kimonos. Embroidered messages called kanjis for good luck. Phoenix symbols on all outerwear. Collage techniques with black and white cottons. Transparent silks. Camouflage patterns. Inkjet prints. Golden weaves. Colored threads. Flowers. Blacklining techniques. Organdi even. Or Lame. The refined workings all which require hard labor and all well worthy of the name Pop Couture, which would make each piece of this admirable SS18 collection a highly prized item in and of itself alone.

Thus, flash-flash-flash and flex-flex-flex, Rynshu gives you that funny feeling that you get when something special is about to happen so that everyone suddenly grabs for their cameras and – in a reflex – you want to be there too: Yo, quick, get it on film! For here is the Rynshu perfect summer rooftop collection SS18.

Words by Sandro and photos from Rynshu.

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A press release that opens with the brave words …

‘During the Victorian era, women wore an extensive amount of underwear.’

is definitely worth reading. And also for a dangerous promise makes where men’s fashion is concerned, especially if this is the first time that, as a young Asian designer, you are bringing your collections to the big audience in Paris, France. But then again you are sponsored by Marangoni which is about the best Art school on the planet that money can buy, as well as by Tranoii, one of the world’s top organizers when it comes to fashion events, so, aye, why not be risqué and lay it all out for all to see, as if you are some latter day Peter Paul Rubens, trying to satisfy the insatiable tastes and (dis)likes of the wealthy and the demanding of your time, which in this case would surely mean the millennial Instagram elite.

A portrait of the artist as a young designer.

A portrait of the artist as a young designer.

Yes, for splendidly here is getting in touch with your inner angel through the beautiful Chin Mens SS18 collection simply called Underlinens, in a reference to what was once hiding beneath the structural garments that women would wear to create that well-known yet painful Victorian silhouette, a soft and silky fabric for protection which has the ability to save gentle and sensitive skin from rougher and harder exterior materials, and from the vain impressions of buttons, hooks, and straps – but then for men. This is the genius of the Chin Mens SS18 collection.

And indeed, why should men today not be able to tap into their inner baby, their inner little angel, if they feel like doing so, by means of wearing something aesthetically or sensually pleasing – in the comfort of the privacy of home? Something made of white and creamy cotton or linen. Something loose and soft and refined for the home wardrobe, which undoubtedly medieval knights would have plenty of after returning bloodied and full of grime from yet another dirty battle. In fact, under linens must have been a staple for men until even late in the 17th century in Europe when techniques for the mass production of underwear did not yet exist.

So after leaving your inner demons on the battle field, by all means dear men, find out about your inner angels, when you get home safely, and dress up – splendidly and beautifully – in Chin Mens SS18.

Word by Sandro and photos from Chin Mens.

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This was a show that had always escaped us at Best Dressed Man so we were very grateful to be invited, and indeed Hed Mayner SS18 proved to be everything we expected and more as the venue for the runway show was the giant marble patio under the sky high columns of the Palais Brongniart (imagine the US Supreme court building) while a cool breeze pitched the perfect temperature for both guests and models alike.

That this ambiance of the antique world matched the collection on the runway is no small feat, but then you will have to realize that Hed Mayner’s hometown is Jerusalem and that perhaps with his upbringing in French couture he indeed has the ability to tap into those age-old styles which hark back to the Proche-Orient – aka the near east, which gives him the talent to redefine classic western menswear into something which looks like modern urban chic but with a firm page out of book of One Thousand and One Nights.

We see kimono jackets, double breasted long gowns, and of course Jesus Sandals, some made in whole or in part as a finishing touch of dark brown Israeli tent canvas. A fantastic and recognizable signature for a fantastic venue, and all that was missing on display were long lost sands at the bottom of the grand marble temple, for here antiquity meets Urban Chic – Hed Mayner’s exclusive style Chic Proche-Orient.

For here we find refined but unassuming luxury of the east meeting the classic style of the west, and it is beautiful, but also discrete as thankfully not too many colors are used, but earthy masculine colors only – like navy, like military khaki, like white or black, and different shades of brown. Neither are fabrics used (washed wool, denim, Japanese cotton, nylon mesh, and twill) too outrageous nor complex, but just recognizable and simple, which makes for a SS18 collection which, despite its originality, is still to be carried in a distinguished Sotto Voce – which means you will have to go unnoticed on the streets despite being dressed in Hed Mayner’s sartorial class.

Words by Sandro and photos from Hed Mayner.

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Officine Générale is well-known in America as the typical French brand goes the mile with the SS18 collection to prove that you really do not have to bend yourself over backwards as a designer by constantly changing signatures or by inventing yet the latest or newest trend in order to be true and comfortable to your very own trusted style.

There is too much of that in the cutthroat competition which is the world of fashion. And too many brands are reaching for straws by looking for ‘disruption’ or ‘change’ or ‘rebellion’ or that sad catch-all phrase called ‘the future’. No, none of this is really necessary when what you advocate in your designs, your patterns, your colors, your concepts, and in the fabrics that you use is simply elegance – French elegance in this case.

And this is what Officine Générale is really good at. The concept is simple in that the collection is supposed to give simple confidence and comfort to those who wear it. The design is a middle-of-the-road but classy tailoring in style with sharp French cuts but only made from superior fabrics made in either Italy, Britain, or Japan. The details and the stitch are refined, if not sophisticated. This is casual chic at its best and it is no coincidence that on Google trends you can follow the global rise and appreciation of the word ‘chic’ which mirrors the course of the stock chart of the Apple company. Casual chic is IT.

But like we said last time when we covered Officine Générale, what is so very important when wearing French made jackets, coats, sweater, and slacks casually with loafers or sandals and perhaps without any socks, is that, well – that you know how to wear it! For French casual is meant to dress you down and not to dress you up. Wear your shirt outside your belt and not tugged in. Have your collar stand up and not neatly folded crisply together. Stick your hands – please, please – deep into your pockets by all means. Or let the cuffs hang loose unbuttoned in the wind. And above all do not be conscious about the way you walk or the way you talk. Just let it hang loose. It’s called laissez-faire or let it go in English!

If then by hazard or chance one day you are spotting those washed out soft hue pastel colors dressed down in your latest Officine Générale SS18 and somebody asks you a question on the streets, do not feel obliged to respond immediately in a business-like and correct fashion. No! In reply rather mumble something impossibly difficult to understand while attempting to light a cigarette fumbling for a lighter you do not appear to be able to find as you subtly show off your Officine Générale casual French chic.

Because, as Oscar Wilde once quipped while living in exile in France:

“Every good conversation always starts with a pose.”

Words by Sandro and photos from Officine Générale.

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Sankuanz is back with yet an enormous effort to push the boundaries of what type of fabrics, linens, and materials may be used in the pursuit of pushing the boundaries of what men today can wear as streetwear.

When last time in January designer Shangguan Zhe from China was bold enough to introduce to us bio-shock hazardous materials suits (hazmat) as a form of streetwear for which fabrication includes DuPont materials, aramid fiber, and the non-fictional odorless, tasteless, yet surprisingly non-toxic space material called UHMWPE (ultra-high-molecular-weight-polyethylene), this time around he manages to bring to the runways of Paris materials looking like plaster by using linen suits woven into overdyed cottons, as well silica gel-based fabrics, which is starting to make the independent observer wonder strongly as to where the boundaries of fabrics end and where begins the world of materials.

That’s not to say of course that there is no concept or colors to this show, and that is precisely the genius of it, that the Sankuanz SS18 collection manages to integrate the cutting edge of fabrics technology with a nice sense of style, Italian style in fact, which is accomplished by using the works and art of Cy Twomble (an American exiled in Rome) as a backdrop for inspiration for the show. This means Mediterranean colors throughout (sandy, lime, beautiful reds) in light pastels, and raw, raw scribbles and patterns and motifs – think Pollock but then in Rome with brighter colors and a little bit more graffiti-like, yet with Italian curves and style.

Add to this grand tableau a cartoonish and ever-pervasive-on-the-runways-of-today trend of oversizing everything, and voila, here we have Sankuanz on the march in its latest study on sartorial exploration into the unknown. It must thus be clear then to the reader that Sankuanz SS18 succeeds where it sets off to do something new but that is long not finished yet with the show today. Not by a UHMWPE mile…

Words by Sandro and photos from Sankuanz.

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