Custo BCN’s SS18 collection, which indeed was not shown on the catwalks of BCN 080 Fashion Week, but instead first debuted at New York Fashion Week and a few days later at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid made a colorful splash, as usual. The collection, entitled Call Me Tomorrow, had its roots in athleisure mixed with a little hip hop and street wear. There were less male looks than female, but that’s on par with what most designers who design both menswear and womenswear do.

The male looks were just as bright and bold as the female looks, using almost every color under the sun with a focus on blues, greens and red/orange. Baggy and casual seemed to be the name of the game, and it’s not surprising that comfortable athleisure is taking over the menswear runways as well as the womenswear ones. Who doesn’t want to roam around in baggy, relaxed gear while still looking stylish?

We can always count on Custo BCN to stay true to their colorful and playful style, and SS18 was no different. The menswear also featured some brocade and jacquard style looks, keeping with Custo’s usual patterns. Striped zip-up cardigans also seemed to be a popular trend too.

Combined all together, Custo BCN’s designs may seem a bit much for the average man, especially one who typically wears all black, for example. But pairing a solid piece for the Custo collection with a tamer set of trousers and footwear could be the perfect combination, adding just the right amount of punch to an otherwise tamer outfit without going overboard. BDMOTP will likely hop onboard with one of those snazzy zip-up cardigans. What will you be digging into this season from Custo BCN?

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA.

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A first in the line of many (we hope) Garcia showed an elegant line of mainly suits for men at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid,. Though the brand dates back to 2006, this is the first time we’ve had the pleasure of seeing their collection walk the illusive runways alongside Madrid’s most designated designers. With stores in Madrid, Barcelona and Chile, it seems like the brand is well on their way to success.

For SS18, the brand had a very literal translation. The colors were a more traditional navy and and khaki, but with fun spring touches like a polka dot pattern and pale pink. We also saw a nice army green carrying over from fall into spring. The looks, some which were more formal than others, were made to seem slightly more casual with the addition of flip flops paired with several of the suits. If you aren’t in the mood for a gym shoe, which is the trend that seems to have been paired with suits for the last few seasons, now you can simply throw on a pair of beachy flip flops — if the occasion for a suit with sandals suggests itself, of course.

There were a few more urban additions, such as some pants tapered with an elastic drawstring at the ankle, blazers paired with tailored shorts and an interesting cropped jacket over a shirt, tie and polka dotted pants. Any of us here at BDMOTP would happily sport one of these suits, or even perhaps a polka dot addition to spice things up a bit. We look forward to see what Garcia will bring to the Madrid runways in coming seasons.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA.

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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid is once again upon us and there were only two designers showing menswear as part of their SS18 collections. As usual, Ana Locking was one of them, and we at BDMOTP were curious to see what this season would bring, since last season’s collection had a very strong Black Panthers political message.

This season’s “Preachers and Believers” collection had a mix of elegant suits that were lightly touched by an American Wild West cowboy theme, an inspiration that locking has used in past collections, too. Inspired wholly by what’s happening in the Americas, Ana Locking’s designs consisted of silk suits and colorful blazers layered over bold tee-shirts paired with cowboy hats and loafers.

The “preacher” inspiration can be seen in the form of the navy floor length trench coat, which light resembles a priest’s famed traditional outfit, but the “believers” is slightly more difficult to differentiate. Believe in what, exactly? Well, we at BDMOTP believe in fashion and we loved the bright colors Locking used in her collection, especially the splatters of yellow and the shiny new fabrics. Blazers paired with shorts and cropped trousers were layered in all sorts of  patterns and shades of pinks, turquoise and green, and there’s no doubt in our minds that this collection was definitely created with spring and summer in mind.

In any case, if you aren’t on board with the colors, perhaps you can simply pick up a cowboy hat and pair it with your outfit — PREACH!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA.

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If you’re hoping to see selections from almost thirty years of fashionable undergarments designed by Manuel Gotor for men in the form of artistic and eye-catching photographs, you can’t miss the exhibit ‘La Otra Piel,’ meaning ‘The Other Skin’ now showing at the Axel Hotel in Madrid.

Photo by E.Moreno Esquibel.

Photo by E.Moreno Esquibel.

Spanish designer Manuel De Gotor has been creating undergarments and swimwear for men since 1989. Starting off by showing his collections on the Spanish runways, De Gotor then had a brief period of made-to-measure, handcrafting only the most original and one-of-a-kind garments: underwear and sleepwear for his most loyal customers.  In 2009 he started his Ready-To-Wear collections once again, insuring that Spanish, European and men all over the world look good underneath their fancy suits and casual activewear. It’s exciting to see a designer paying so much attention to what is so often ignored when it comes to men: quality undergarments.

The designer himself.

The designer himself.

Gotor’s designs have encompassed a variety of styles over the years which you can see in the photographs. From colorful and bold swimwear to sleek and wearable briefs to silk, sultry robes, there’s something special for every man in Gotor’s collections in the past, present and surely the future. The photos show the versatility and luxury of the collection, as well as Gotor’s eye for fit and trend.

Image from Manuel de Gotor from the Summer 2014 collection.

Photo from Manuel de Gotor from the Summer 2014 collection.

 

You can check out the exhibit through October 15, 2017 in the lobby of the Axel Hotel in Madrid, Spain (Calle Atocha, 49) after successful stints in both Barcelona and Bilbao. If you won’t find yourself in Madrid anytime soon, then you can check out the below photos, which embody the spirit of Manuel de Gotor’s many different designs.

From the Ansia collection. Photo by Javier Carrion.

From the Ansia collection. Photo by Javier Carrion.

A piece from the Ice Summer 2013 collection. Photo by Errejota Kreatif.

A piece from the Ice Summer 2013 collection. Photo by Errejota Kreatif.

Photo by Enrique Toribio.

Photo by Enrique Toribio.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos as specified in caption.

Timeless elegance for men going the distance with Loris Azzaro, the late French – Italian jet-set stylist (1933 – 2003) who obtained the French legion d’honneur for his work and contributions in perfumes and fashion and whose brand has been around since 1967 (today is the occasion to celebrate the 50th anniversary), but whose ultimate legacy in the annals of history may very well turn out to be that he was an early pioneer of what today we know as the fashion party, but which in the early seventies was still a highly exclusive affair for very important people without all the photographers, mock celebrities, or hysterical Instagram wannabes fighting mindlessly over instant access.

Iconic turtleneck with classic optical style.

Iconic turtleneck with classic optical style.

Anyways, the man had a way with class and style which becomes immediately evident still in the pictures hereby attached, and which in all its raw simplicity has sometimes been called ‘élegance intemporelle’ in French which translates simply as timeless elegance. But that is for what we still can see today when we recognize these universal style signatures so many years laters as classy, but when then you would also consider that Loris Azzaro was once the preferred stylist for no one less than Brigitte Bardot, Liza Minnelli, Tina Turner, Claudia Cardinale, Romy Schneider, Jane Birkin, Raquel Welch, and Sophia Loren, then perhaps the timeless elegance of the photos hereby attached pour homme may start to take on a new meaning. Or as Loris Azzaro was famous for saying:

‘On est pas belle / beau par hasard’

(one is not beautiful just by chance)

Iconic turtleneck II with aviator sunglasses.

Iconic turtleneck II with aviator sunglasses.

 

So there it is, in that first image some magic French Chic Intellectuel which somehow still brings back seventies memories of Yves Saint Laurent, or – flashforward 25 years – memories of the last decade of Steve Jobs as High Tech guru par excellence, wearing a real Pull Col Roulé (knitted woolen turtleneck sweater), white court shoes, and metalic nerd glasses notwithstanding, a little bit unshaven in pepper & salt of course – as what would be one outstanding male Loris Azzaro icon for all time.

And so the second image gives a classic Italian impression, a real Viaggio in Italia hallmark with those sunglasses and shades ready for the journey, which again gives evidence of the timeless elegance of the Loris Azzaro Homme collection in that this universal style so easily has the ability to cross over from one culture into the other. So much so that from here on it is not difficult to imagine the Hollywood version of the continuation of this story.

The blue velvet tuxedo dinner jacket with bow tie.

The blue velvet tuxedo dinner jacket with bow tie.

 

Therefore, here come out the dinner jackets now – by Jeeves, which are going to be necessary so as to be socially successful at your next event – be it fashion, business, or even pleasure, so aye, why not show up in a blue velvet tuxedo with black bow tie knowing you already made the part and aced the casting, because indeed you now per Loris Azzaro himself that ‘one is not beautiful just by chance’.

Grey wool coat on wooly turtleneck sweater, wool scarf, optical glasses.

Grey wool coat on wooly turtleneck sweater, wool scarf, eyeglasses.

So credit must go out to stylist Jérome André who so flawlessly brings back this raw simplicity of timeless elegance for this particular collection of Loris Azzaro Homme FW 17/18. For who today still would dare to go in different shades of grey and different knits of simple wool thinking you be cool and casual – or even chic, while spotting a pull col roulé wearing nerd glasses? Noone, lest there be no need to be either casual or cool. And this precisely is perhaps a tall order for today’s man. Unless you posses that timeless elegance of Loris Azzaro.

The pull col roulé on sunglasses

The pull col roulé on sunglasses

Words by Sandro and photos from Loris Azzaro

The name Ports 1961 brings visions of yachting along the Mediterranean, stark-white from head-to-toe and sailor-style navy and stripes. While this isn’t quite the Ports 1961 aesthetic, we were pleased to note that Milan Vukmirovic did add a dash of stripes to his Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection — though that’s where the boating vibes end. Instead, the collection features urban contemporary styles with an underlying European fit and Asia/European tone.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren't getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren’t getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

The designer co-founded the legendary concept store Colette, which is closing its doors December 20, 2017 to the dismay of fashionistas around the world. We could harp on this sad occurrence all day, but we won’t, because focusing on the Ports 1961 Fall collection makes us much happier.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Ports 1961 really went visceral with the colorblocking trend this season, covering sweaters and shirts with large sections of contrasting tones. We get a flash of pastel and white here too — don’t forget winter white is still a thing and the Labor Day white rule goes out the door when you exit the good ol’ US of A. So feel free to sport your winter white with pride all over Europe, Asia and beyond this fall and winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

It wouldn’t be fall without a dash of layering, and Ports 1961 goes more formal with a open-cut style sleeve cape over a colorblocked, partially unbuttoned shirt. The contrasting formal style juxtaposes perfectly with the more casual baggy trousers and unbuttoned, untucked shirt, still crisply ironed, of course.

Layers galore.

Layers galore.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ports 1961.

Voila the new collection for Cali brand UGG 17/18 (for men since 2012) for any guy who needs a good action boot but who does not want to go to his local sports authority to walk away with a daft regular hiking, tracking, biking, or other type of action boot, but who likes to go surfing, climbing, trekking, free running, or do parkour in STYLE, with a little velvet here and there on the ankle boot, some cool signatures on your quality loafers, and in some awesome posh colors and patterns like norse green, slate, chestnut, or camouflage, or aye, why not grizzly, while a Timberland is certainly not the answer either because it is too heavy and because it lacks that Aussie casual flair and style (UGG was founded by an Australian).

Yes and of course they come with a good inline, with ankle protection, cool strong laces, and in waterproof and weather resistant materials if you want – cold weather or warm, and yes there are exclusive boutique stores in the world’s major cities where you will have to go to find them – exclusively – for this is footwear for men of action who like to go in style as well as looking for adventures. Here at BDMOTP we will it Action-Chic.

In this particular slide show below done for the new fall-winter 17/18 collection you can just picture the boys celebrating the Australian heritage of a shoe accessorized down under in casual chic somewhere in Queensland perhaps, and worn casually, but with the important intent so as to be able to avoid stepping by mistake on a stray local huntsman spider or an indigenous black-bellied swamp snake – because – aye that is what chic ankle boots are for, not to take a selfie to be cool on Instagram but to be weather, terrain, and wildlife resistant while you are at it in wild nature on your latest adventure, hunt, or walkabout – rough weather or wild creatures notwithstanding.

Hence that the action-chic ankle boot collection you can see below is called by name respectively as Sneaker, Casual, Vestmar, Weather, Heritage, Holiday, and Olivert. And not Chelsea boots they are, so let’s call them Aussie Boots in honor to their original creator.

Words by Sandro and photos from UGG.

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Here’s cheers to introducing another London Savile Row bespoke ready-to-wear rising star brand called Helen Anthony – Mister Anthony being the designer, and Helen after his grandmother who taught him the art of tailoring – and not forgetting that Mister Anthony’s main inspiration in the creation of all his collections is reported to be his mother – Mom!

But the curious thing for this SS18 collection was that the runway show was being held not in London but during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at the Real Intercontinental in San José, Costa Rica this month with apparently the illustrious Leonora Jimenez – supermodel – as an organizing director of the fashion week. In addition, this show was being sponsored by the British Embassy and stylist-du-jour Graham Cruz was present to cover for both the men’s and women’s wear collections.

Here at BDMOTP we may say that we have seen this London old gentlemen clubhouse hearty party style before recently with Alexander McQueen where British imperial motives were omnipresent, and to which now Helen Anthony likes to add a more traditional Scottish cloth square, or a pinstripe here and there, or perhaps a more refined Prince of Whales pattern which then mixes up vividly with Indian subcontinent colors of such pomp and of such lack of more traditional occidental shape that they would have not gone misplaced or unnoticed in the hidden salons of Imperial British Hong Kong – and not impeccable German Shanghai – , during the last opium war.

Which is quite a while ago.

For what else can a stiff upper lip gentleman in the late 19th century Far East do but to dress down in colors and shapes of craven braggadocio when you are the only stranger in town if your Scottish square or pinstripe does not remain straight up? You are a gentleman of the Orient after all

Posted by Sandro and photos from Helen Anthony.

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Private White VC is one of Best Dressed Man on the Planet’s go to British brands. Unfortunately, this season, they didn’t host an event of any kind in London to launch their SS17/18 collection, and BDMOTP was disappointed as they are usually first to set the tone for London Fashion Week Mens. However, we were able to get the scoop on what’s new and hot as well as who is wearing the brand around town this summer. Let’s start with the newness Private White VC is offering for this fall: a raincoat to weather all raincoats.

The famous unlined Mac

The famous unlined Mac

For those looking for the perfect fall or spring coat, the new SB Unlined Mac in the way to go. It’s apparently rain and windproof created by hand from 100% cotton Ventile Mac finished with their signature copper sealing tape.

However, we weren’t the first to get to Private White VC as much as we would have liked to. The brand is becomingly seemingly larger and growing on an international level and many celebs seem to have gotten there first. Here’s a few of our favorite Best Dressed Men sporting the brand:

The ever-dapper David Gandy.

The ever-dapper David Gandy.

David Gandy, a long time Private White VC fan (we used to spot him at the events each season) is still dedicated to the brand, wearing a Private White VC jacket in the perfect green color.

Woody Harrelson is sports the brand too.

Woody Harrelson is sports the brand too.

Private White VC clearly has an international appeal, as American actor Woody Harrelson was spotted by the Hollywood Reporter wearing Private White V.C. Navy Worksuit trousers.

Tennis start Andy Murrary is a fan as well.

Tennis start Andy Murrary is a fan as well.

Remember that little tennis event called Wimbledon? Andy Murray, tennis champ, was spotted there proudly wearing the Private White VC Suede Rainrider.

Dig through that closet to pull out your favorite Private White VC item to wear this fall, and if you can’ t find anything, perhaps it’s time for a new raincoat?

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Private White VC.

Gucci is one for a very special brand of men. We all know the types, the cool surfers & the beachgoers – the Miami deck bar types in flashing color throw away costumes, the Hamptons type who like to go as Jay Gatsby, the Ibiza & Mykonos wannabes with their latest Jay Alvarez impressions, and we know the luxury yacht men in their dinner jackets pretending to be James Bond. These are all the very fashionable stings and pangs of the leisure casts and the rich kids of Instagram of today.

However, here now – thanks to the House of Gucci – finally there is something completely different, something for a different caste of man all together, something that carves up a new exclusive domain as a grand entry into the pantheon of men’s fashion, something which heretofore had only be reserved for special women: Cruise & Resort Fashion – as in fashion for men.

Enter the yellow carpet, on which walk colorful imperial Gucci creations in all its baroque glory which could only have been invented in and around the old renaissance capital of Florence. Clearly the House of Gucci needs no introduction, but this collection, because this domain is an innovation in men’s fashion, definitely does. And so this particular and peculiar SS18 collection was presented discretely in Firenze on 29 May 2017 as a part of the collection for women’s wear – hiding among the harem so to speak. And we’re sorry we missed it.

For which man has ever dreamt of measuring up to Heliogabalus – the forgotten Roman boy emperor, and dressing up like a god-king? Which man can tap into his inner Rasputin for that matter, and grow a ‘guccified’ (the word exists) hipster-beard so ugly that it would certainly get you killed during the next winter palace revolution? Or how about that unshaven look spotting a daft Saddam-mustachio while wearing a silky foulard around your neck to set off the roses or the peonies on your black renaissance costume?

These and others here below on display are the grand creations all for men to whom luxury is not a necessity to prove anything at all, least of all to themselves, but rather is a special privilege to be enjoyed for pleasure only and only your own pleasure within the restricted confines of a private secluded resort or perhaps a 19th century trans-Atlantic cruise. Exit the yellow carpet.

Men! Be bold, be brave, be Gucci – and Guccify yourselves!

Words by Sandro and photos from Gucci by GPS Radar.

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