Duarte is a relatively new brand, founded in 2015 by designer Carlos Duarte. The AW18-19 collection was inspired by artist Francis Bacon. The idea was to take each garment and create it in an abstract and colorful way, taking inspiration from the famous painter. In the past, the designer has focused just on men, but this season, womenswear was also part of the collection.
BDMOTP was initially pleased with the layering of the collection: stripes mixed with plaids layered over one another. We also loved the intentional clashing of fabrics, a leather shirt tucked into cotton trousers, for example, added real depth to the line. The third collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid to feature a bold orange coat, although this particular one was more tailored than the other long trenches we saw. Don’t worry though, if you’re a fan of the oversize trench, because Duarte featured those too. Outerwear also came in the form of shorter, boxier jackets with large, square pockets, rather unlike anything we saw on the Madrid runways.
We still see some of the popular “of the moment” trends, like the turtleneck and some colorblocking elements. BDMOTP also liked the colors of the collection, which included wool coats in deep brown and army green as well as black, grey, khaki and orange, providing gentleman with all the basics and more when it comes to color choice. We look forward to seeing Duarte evolve and grow in seasons to come on the Madrid runways.
Words by Lori Zaino and photos from IFEMA/Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid.