There is something delightfully perverse – of course – about John Galliano’s latest heroic attempt to rewrite the annals of fashion history. For here the old master goes on a brave crusade doomed to nothing less but sudden death or failure in a titanic struggle to open up a new page in the book of the glamour so as to introduce us to what can only be called Millennial Glam.
By means of artisanal tailoring.
As we already noticed a reversible blazer coat-jacket in the Y/Project collection yesterday in Paris, here for Maison Margiela the vivisection of sartorial principles is taken even one step further in that in addition to cross cultural cuts between street, sports, and classic menswear, at the same traditional fabrics are used in direct opposition and contrast to artificial materials like rubber, poly-urethane, and gabardine. And that thus the sartorial effects can be rather unpredictable. But maybe that is what Glam is all about: For Ziggy played guitar.
No, this is Glam for the Millennial Age, which only a master like Galliano could provide as he splashes, splits, splatters, and splices between different materials, cuts, colors, and styles, using rubber for cardigans (ouch), turning overcoats into jackets and trench coats into formal wear, leaving seams and linings half untouched or unfinished, so as to give the impression that all was tailored in a form of irrepressable haste, waste, and hurry – as if when so many millennials would probably rather be on their smart phones rather than to pay attention to sullen bourgeois sartorial propriety.
All is revamped, rebooted, and turned topsy-turvy and inside out, and the appropriate concept connotation for this type of sartorial dissection activity is apparently ‘décortiquer’ (to hull or to peel in French), which may probably translate into American English under circumstances as Peel my House. For mister Galliano calls his provocative creations ‘house ideas’, with the brilliantly sordid silver lining that some of the artisanal tailoring may have been done in the name of Glam & Slam (notice the Glam Slam Bags) and SMS (Security Margiela Sneakers) for Maison Margiela AW18.
It’s Brutish, it’s Kinky, and it’s Beautiful – it’s John Galliano for Maison Margiela AW18 with the Millennial Glam collection.
Story by Sandro and photos from Maison Margiela.