Hed Mayner again pushing the boundaries of sartorial class with his background in French couture with a sumptuous collection of oversized Chic L’Endroit à L’Envers, an inside-out kind of chic which tackles every trend of the moment but which manages to stay super classy, wearable, and yes – playful.
First thing that must be noticed is that by using only Sotto Voce colors in the palette that thereby you keep things traditional, and that by using classic suit shapes and forms you will guarantee the level of distinction and class that is needed to have your show’s elegance, and add to that traditional quilting, cottons and wools, but then from there on the collection becomes playful like a rollercoaster in what the press release names …
… habitual daily gestures becoming adventurous in an unusual setting …
… as this is where the deconstruction and dissection sets in (décorticage), the peeling away and the hulling of the traditional sartorial items, with the interesting twist that Hed Mayner starts his re-creation process from the inside-out – called l’endroit à l’envers in French.
The press release claims it as …
… a bourgeois repertoire cut differently from within:
- Oversize it, yes again, in each and every show this week in Paris everything is oversized, it’s the trend
- Use different sizes at the same time, like oversize level one, level two, level three
- Overlay it and underlay it in contrasting colors of different materials
- Wrap it and drape it, another Paris runway trend this week
- Collapse collars and cuffs over and about
- Let it hang (like your tie over your shoulder and your shirt out in well-studied nonchalance) and certainly don’t button or zip anything
- Loosely wear studied spectacles
Et puis voilà – there you have it – now you will come to see what Hed Mayner likes to call ‘form following function’, with what we can see the function being to look classy and cool all at the same time, while the forms and cuts while staying within the realm and boundaries of sartorial bespoke, still manage to give the impression of contemporary streetwear chic (draped, loose, and oversized).
No questions asked – the Hed Mayner AW 18 collection is a grand success.
Story by Sandro and photos from Hed Mayner.