As we were happily surprised last time covering Cottweiler and introducing them as the new kids on the block for London tailor-made concept wear that would probably feature not so badly in the MOMA or the TATE on exhibition, it was always going to be a hard sell to take Savile Row bespoke & action wear to next level (hmm).
But so designers Ben Cottrell and Matt Dainty did manage after all by setting this latest winterish underground collection (suits and hair and hands wet on the runway et al.) of Cottweiler inside the belly of the Earth’s Treasury Gallery in the London Natural History Museum, which is chock full of all types of minerals, which poses of course contradiction in that modern synthetics are now mixed with traditional types of wool (Merino from The Woolmark Company) but then again that was precisely the point because this type of ambiguity is what the designers strive for in concept works.
Synthetic vs natural, and real vs artificial, so that is why here we have the models dressed in underground caving and mining materials (Boris Bidjan Saberi is another designer whose concepts hark back to ice – climbing and caving) like harnesses, spotlights, and carabiners – synthetics mixed with woven wools – and frankly this is not the first time this has been witnessed on the runways in this glorious age of extreme sport luxury fashion, but aye, let’s give London credit of making the Hall of (largely robbed and stolen over the centuries by British explorers) Minerals available for this concept creation of modern fashion – wax and ceiling dripping trapping the miners shoe wear to the floors, and wetting their chests in the dark –, and the designers for trying to make the most of it.
Cottweiler concept wear – from the crystal caves of Krizna Jama to the Tate and the MOMA by way of the Museum of Natural History.
Hey, and let’s not forget a special mention for them oh so very masculine Mulberry bags in stalactite blue (not kidding you, look it up, it exists) or spring ice white in which you could pack your foulard in case you feel a little cold while looking for crystals underground. Or perhaps a small brumisateur parfum Chanel Bleu – just in case.
Words by Sandro and photos by Cottweiler