Read on to check out BDMOTP’s exclusive interview with Sylvain Fischmann, artistic director of young and up-coming French tailor-made brand RIVES — Tailor made suits Paris.
- Are you planning to competing directly with Savile Row and Via Monte Napoleone?
We’re not that into competition. Both Savile Row and Via Napoleone are temples of know-how and tailor-made, but RIVES has a totally different approach, not contradictory but with another vision of tailor made. We have many customers of one or the other who come to see us precisely for something more creative, modern, slick and fashionable.
- Is the opening up of shop at Printemps Hommein Paris on the 2nd floor the beginning of a global presence for RIVES?
Opening a big corner in the new version of Printemps de l’Homme is definitely a big step and an exciting challenge for us. When Printemps came to us, we immediately felt the relevance and potential of this project. We think RIVES as a whole brand and we develop it with a reasonable rhythm so as to always master the service, the processes, the quality while being self-financed.
- If not in Europe would you chose first rather to open up shop in Shanghai or in New York?
Firstly in New York without hesitation! We have a great attachment and a good knowledge of the city and the market. Added to that, we are completely captivated by its energy, spirit and creativity!
- As for quality & innovation in materials and fabrics what would be the RIVESrelationship with French weaver Dormeuil?
Our association with DORMEUIL is not random. Very attached to the traditional values of the couture, tailor-made and more generally to the French know-how in the universe of the fashion and luxury, we found in DORMEUIL the ideal weaver in terms of quality and creativity.
Their approach is focused on the future. From patterns to weaving techniques, through the development of exclusive fabrics those have become famous around the world, DORMEUIL is recognized as much for the quality of its fabrics as for its creativity, research and development. A perfect match.
- What’s the secret behind the quick turnaround time and the great pricing on high-end suits, tuxedos, jackets, and coats ordered?
The quality/price ratio is at the heart of our positioning and our thinking since our creation. Unlike ready-to-wear, we don’t have stocks to manage, so we can allow smaller margins than in ready-to-wear. Also, the secret lies in the quality and proximity of our partners’ relationships. We select craft shops, fabric suppliers, staff, and artistic collaborations based on human feelings. Everyone we’re working with share the same passion for authenticity, beauty and fun. As for the quick turnaround, it’s thanks to the expertise of the workshops we work with. Thanks to their professionalism, passion and commitment. This is the advantage of working with traditional workshops and not factories.
- As a style would you say ‘chic urbain’ would coverRIVES, or would you prefer ‘contemporary elegance’?
We avoid limiting ourselves to a single style! Positioned on the tailor maid luxury streetwear, RIVES is creating a unique artistic and urban footprint. We have in our DNA these urban, contemporary and chic sides.
- You work with a team of Artistic Director, Designer, Stylist, and maybe a Photographer in your studio – what is the main creative advantage of having the functions separated rather than combined?
While I am co-founder of the brand with our “rock” Antoine Salmon-Peugnet, I’m also its Artistic Director. This status gives me the freedom to explore whatever I want with whoever I want, while keeping it all together. The collections, the points of sales’ design, the website, or the look-books and campaigns are part of the same vision, shared with talented people whom we have the chance to work with:
- Raphaël Lugassy (photographer),
- Marc Ange (designer),
- HER (music band),
- Jisbar (artist),
- Aslove (DJ),
- Keziah Jones (musician),
- Jeung Hae Him (video artist),
- Gaëlle Dessauvages (PR and strategy consultant), and
- Lamine Sow, our flagship’s director, who has been involved the past 2 years in the development strategy and creative process.
- Is your collaboration with Pop Artist Jisbar- aka the French Basquiat – in the contrast he provides with a traditional look of French sartorial elegance perhaps not a little bit too risqué for an international cosmopolitan client?
We don’t try to delight. We work with the heart, without asking any questions. We work with talented and human people, and we just want to share this! If we had to collaborate with a controversial artist we would raise the question, but if it’s just a matter of taste, we trust people. This is the artistic approach that interests us, and the opportunity to work and promote these artists is a chance, a pleasure.
- How does your relationship with The Woolmark Companyaffect the quality of the brand?
We work with the biggest weavers in France, the UK, and Italy, all affiliated to The Woolmark Company. It is natural to get closer to this organization, which represents a real support for a young brand like us, especially for the sourcing of materials allowing the realization of new products, but also for communication: working with such a label gives us credibility and confidence in our project. We met at The Woolmark Company very passionate and supportive people.
- If he wore RIVES, who would you say is the Best Dressed Man on the Planet?
No. Idea. What I can tell is ‘who’ gave me the passion for clothes when I was a child: Clint Eastwood in A fistful of dollars, Albator, Sean Connery in Never say never again, and Slash.
Interview by Sandro and photos from Rives.