Sankuanz is back with yet an enormous effort to push the boundaries of what type of fabrics, linens, and materials may be used in the pursuit of pushing the boundaries of what men today can wear as streetwear.
When last time in January designer Shangguan Zhe from China was bold enough to introduce to us bio-shock hazardous materials suits (hazmat) as a form of streetwear for which fabrication includes DuPont materials, aramid fiber, and the non-fictional odorless, tasteless, yet surprisingly non-toxic space material called UHMWPE (ultra-high-molecular-weight-polyethylene), this time around he manages to bring to the runways of Paris materials looking like plaster by using linen suits woven into overdyed cottons, as well silica gel-based fabrics, which is starting to make the independent observer wonder strongly as to where the boundaries of fabrics end and where begins the world of materials.
That’s not to say of course that there is no concept or colors to this show, and that is precisely the genius of it, that the Sankuanz SS18 collection manages to integrate the cutting edge of fabrics technology with a nice sense of style, Italian style in fact, which is accomplished by using the works and art of Cy Twomble (an American exiled in Rome) as a backdrop for inspiration for the show. This means Mediterranean colors throughout (sandy, lime, beautiful reds) in light pastels, and raw, raw scribbles and patterns and motifs – think Pollock but then in Rome with brighter colors and a little bit more graffiti-like, yet with Italian curves and style.
Add to this grand tableau a cartoonish and ever-pervasive-on-the-runways-of-today trend of oversizing everything, and voila, here we have Sankuanz on the march in its latest study on sartorial exploration into the unknown. It must thus be clear then to the reader that Sankuanz SS18 succeeds where it sets off to do something new but that is long not finished yet with the show today. Not by a UHMWPE mile…
Words by Sandro and photos from Sankuanz.