It seems like Glenn Martens is finally coming of age with his grand and eternal Y / Project. After exploring for years all kinds of interesting memes & themes (underground, French imperial chic, emaciated drug chic, etc. you name it), this cult and celebrity designer from Belgium finally somehow perhaps realized that there is some commercial value to be had to employ his formidable talents towards everybody’s classic favorite of today: Urban Chic.
In fact you could say that that Mr Martens is now no longer arriviste (a beginner) but rather arrivé – that he has arrived. For these grand Y / Project collections are now finally going to go full mainstream. In bigger and brighter venues and no longer shown for a select cult following in tumbling steamboats (not kidding) or underground clubs. And this is best for all of us as Mr Martens acknowledges himself while we read the press release, that it is really all about ‘wearability’ and to make things ‘easy and elegant’ – and not just for the show – as if to say, New York, Shanghai, London, Milan — here I come.
As such, always first on the calendar, the Glenn Martens Y/Project makes for a great and appropriate opener of Paris Fashion Week Homme every time, this time miraculously coinciding with what Parisians fondly know of as the once-per-year Fête de la Musique (an across the city music street festival where pick up bands and musicians make musical mayhem and sounds in cafés, bars, restaurants and on the streets), with the hottest and most suffocating day (over 100F°) Paris had seen in over a decade, as well as with the summer solstice.
And thus, thanks to Y / Project SS18, an easy and elegant kick start for fashion season Paris commenced with the perfect BANG – for summer has arrived.
Words by Sandro and photos from Y / Project