Get ready for some serious class.
For AW 17/18 ACNE once more delivers (like they always seem to do) with a very strong fashion statement, this time with an 80’s urban chic retro look which was inspired by working men, not career or business men, but by what the Japanese would call the salary man, but then occidental style, the man who goes to work every day quietly but who loves to pride himself on how he dresses, on how he behaves, and on how he walks. It’s interesting to see how many good brands recently – like for instance Paul & Joe or Carven – are similarly trying to capture that style (and the oddly pastel colors) from the early eighties, not because it was such an exciting time period in recent history, but probably precisely because of the lack excitement thereof, because in today’s world which is ‘mad, bad, and dangerous to know’ we may very well be able to use the style of a time when nothing much was up, when things were rather calm on the block, and when going to work was not interrupted by trepidation of the total security state, by the buzz of high technology, or the latest reports of brutal climate change. Aye, how about just carrying a simple newspaper for a change! It’s the perfect accessory after all for a quiet ride in the bus or train on your way to work.
Indeed creative director Jonny Johansson is using those sweet pastel colors (he calls them sorbet) in the collection which hark back to a time when life was more innocent and much less stressed and much gentler on the eye. Indeed this was the time of double-breasted suits, those wider pinstripes, leather suspenders, short V-necks or double turtle necks, and perhaps a Prince of Wales pattern here, and oddly square-framed Thunderbirds-are-go sunglasses, but perhaps most of all – yes Jonny please break this vulgar post-modern taboo, please do – a time when men still wore their pants and trousers high up ABOVE their hips and not sadly below them like today.
And thus it may be said that ACNE has succeeded in this collection in bringing back an iconic look and a style of class most desperately needed for our often desperate times today.
Words by Sandro and photos from ACNE.