Le Gibus is by far the darkest, dankest, and grimmest underground club in Paris, but each fashion week it is nevertheless of course happily used as the setting for some kind of men’s fashion show. Which means that when you cram in there (low ceilings hanging loose and no lights) eventually you feel like a pack of rats stuffed and hiding somewhere between the street stones of a forgotten gutter, which is the natural ambiance that Y Project wants to create no doubt, but which worked to the detriment of our photographer who was having some difficulty getting in the right angles and the right shots while being compressed in a crowded, dark and claustrophobic space.
You would thus think that such a show would only give you Berlin or Amsterdam type of street wear, because that is what dark underground setting usually do when they are accompanied by techno and drum & base, but lo and behold, appearances do deceive, and your eyes are not lying, because here is quite a classic picture worthy of framing taken by our photographer when one talks about:
“For the best dressed man on the planet, and the ladies who adore them.”
As this is the old motto of BDMOTP.
BDMOTP will therefore forgive the Y Project and also the horrible Gibus and get on with explaining the show. For somehow, let’s say that only the French could pull this off: To have the ability to combine real CHIC with some real heavy duty UNDERGROUND streetwear.
Indeed the Y Project collection is now going into its fifth year and still runs under direction of creative director Glenn Martens, who harks from Bruges, Belgium, and who has worked for Jean Paul Gaultier in the past. Yet Y Project essentially is a French brand and that is probably why there is this knowhow to combine chic & class with industrial, with base, with techno, and with underground – so that we can dub this menswear collection perhaps as Dark Urban Undergound Chic, and when you finally read in the press release that one of the inspirations for the show was the old dark urban underground flick called Trainspotting from 1996, then the image of urban squalor and desolation (the movie is set in the ghettos of Edinburgh), and there with the signature style of the project, will have become complete. With the added French twist that all the bad stuff that is supposed to happen, is also naturally CHIC. And that’s class.
KEY PIECES (as listed by the press release) in the collection AW17 are:
- Washed and frayed Denim pullovers and trousers
- Multi-zip bombers
- Shearling patchwork jackets
- Oiled cotton bondage jackets
- Harris Tweed trench coats and bustier dresses
- Snake-skin print hoodies and pants
- Nylon shearling-lined chaps
Posted by Sandro and photo Icon by Monika Majewska/other photos from Y Project.