You may wonder what it is what gives Tony Cohen more swag or more style than any other collection on the Amsterdam runways. Well, yes, of course Tony Cohen is a highly successful designer for women and his woman’s collections are elegant, stylish, and beautiful, and generally attract the best models that the business has to offer (Kim Feenstra was the lead model in this runway show which showed both the men’s and women’s collections at the same time), so there has to be a cross-over there somewhere since Tony started his first men’s collection only last year (BDMOTP was there for the release).
So some of the elegance and quality of the woman’s collections is clearly taking a hold of the men’s collection as well. But the style is not the same. Tony Cohen’s women designs are more traditional and classy whereas the men’s collections have a rebellious and nomadic twist to it, despite the collection showing some serious swag. It’s that ‘soft tailoring’ look where threads are bare and become visible hanging from hemlines and sleeves; it’s that wear your odd necktie nonchalantly on skin like jewelry look; that loose yet stylish feeling, which made a big difference compared to the other Dutch collections we witnessed here in Amsterdam. The French would call this it decontracté, the English stylish and casual perhaps.
This particular look was the one that we had found had gone missing in the other collections in Amsterdam, which, except for House of Byfield, were all on the dark and industrial and minimalistic side of the designing arts. Nothing against that because also minimalism and industrial and dark looks have its own merit, but here along comes Tony Cohen and no, he does NOT need a VJ to make a statement, or an aggressive post-apocalyptic and industrial theme, or a minimalist design. No, Tony makes his fashion statement in style.
Frankly this stuff would probably go off well in Milan or in Paris because of its proper urban chic – le chic urbain. Earlier in Paris we witnessed this particular style with Carven and some of the Tony Cohen men’s collection would fall into that category, but not all, because there is that rebellious rag doll look, which comes with the soft tailoring which makes this collection different from others on the same spectrum. But somehow the chic – le chic – is magically retained and maintained in this men’s collection – despite the raffles and the urbanity of the fabrics.
So where does this swag come from? Well when you sit front row at this show you will know. For Tony Cohen has legions of women followers for a very good reason. He makes people more beautiful. It’s that grand art and mastery of design which comes around now and so often and it is the reason why still today some designers are revered like gods. And thus Tony produces plain old swag and style in raffled forms and fabrics FOR MEN. One does not need to ask for more than that in a men’s collection in only its second year since inception – except for that the men here deserve their own runway show.
TONYCOHEN MEN – not just for beautiful women – but for beautiful men as well.
Posted by Sandro and photos from the Tony Cohen PR team.